Results for Co-Axial Escapement

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890

In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years

Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...

Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar

One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse. Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display. Initial thoughts Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial. Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication. Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Inverse German wa...

New: Omega Speedmaster “The First Omega in Space”

A re-edition of the first omega in space, the CK 2998 released in 1959, but now updated with the Co-Axial Master Chronometer.

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4

Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...

Introducing - The Brilliant Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Now In A Smaller Size

When Bernhard Lederer debuts his Central Impulse Chronometer in 2020, it didn’t go unnoticed. Here we had an esteemed independent watchmaker launching a watch with a double escapement inspired by George Daniels’ Independent Double Wheel Escapement pocket watch. Not only did Lederer use it as inspiration, but he also aimed to smooth out its driving force […]

Why I Bought It: The Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot - Reprise

Quentin R. Bufogle could go on and on about the Zenith Chronomaster Tribute to Charles Vermot’s stunningly beautiful, metallic blue dial, silicon escapement (visible via the open heart feature), COSC chronometer certification and that it’s one of the last truly great Chronomasters, but that would be missing the point, i.e. how Charles Vermot saved Zenith.

In-Depth - The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in Titanium, And What High-Frequency Means

In 2012, Chopard made waves with the introduction of the L.U.C 8HF, featuring the groundbreaking L.U.C 01.06-L calibre with a silicon escapement, oscillating at an impressive 8Hz (57,600 vibrations/hour), double the speed of most mechanical movements. Notably, it became the first high-frequency calibre to receive chronometer certification, marking a significant milestone. Encouraged by this success, […]

Frederique Constant spins tracks and escapements at Dubai Watch Week

Deep house and tourbillons mark Frederique Constant's DWW releases.The post Frederique Constant spins tracks and escapements at Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF (High Frequency): Feel the Need for Speed! - Reprise

It has always surprised Martin Green that mechanical movements running at a high frequency have never become more popular. Chopard joined this exclusive club in 2012 with the L.U.C 8HF and now releases a follow-up with the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, which also boasts an 8 Hz escapement.

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1

Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...

The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery

Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...

F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 20th Anniversary Featuring One Mainspring, One Differential, Two Geartrains, And Two Remontoire d’Egalité Escapements

Launched in 2000, the Chronomètre à Résonance was the first wristwatch with a resonance mechanism and it catapulted F.P. Journe into the major leagues. This latest model in celebration of its 20th anniversary is an entirely new piece based on the resonance phenomenon that now incorporates a larger single mainspring (the original had two mainsprings) with a differential driving the two going trains and a pair of remontoire d’égalité escapements.

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Introducing the Grand Seiko T0 (T-Zero) Constant-Force Tourbillon

Grand Seiko introduces the T0 (T-Zero) Constant-Force Tourbillon, with a tourbillon and a constant force mechanism co-axially mounted

Hands-On: Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

French watchmaker Cyril Brivet-Naudot made his debut two years ago with the Eccentricity, a time-only watch that’s fascinating and impressive on many fronts. Not only is it almost entirely made by hand, the Eccentricity is intriguing in design and mechanics – from the overall architecture to details like the key-winding mechanism and regulator-style time display with a twist, and above all, the proprietary escapement. Just 29 years old, Mr Brivet-Naudot began working on the Eccentricity after graduating from the École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), one of Switzerland’s best technical universities. Prior to that, he earned a diploma in watchmaking from the Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France that borders Switzerland. The school has gained a reputation for producing imaginative watchmakers, many pursuing a similar style that’s inspired by 19th century pocket watch movements, including Theo Auffret, a peer of Mr Brivet-Naudot. The result of three years of development, the Eccentricity is very much in the same vein as the watches produced by Mr Brivet-Naudot’s fellow graduates. It artfully combines a 19th century aesthetic sensibility with exotic features, including a novel, free-eccentric escapement, for which the watch was named. And it is built by hand: with the exception of the mainspring, hairspring, jewels and crystals, every component of the watch was made from scratch by Mr Brivet-Naudot, without the aid of CNC machine...

High Speed Escapements, Part 3: Different Approaches

High Speed Escapements, Part 2: A Field Survey

High Speed Escapements, Part 1: History and Future

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Insight: The Science of Gear Tooth Profiles

Having explored several concepts related to energy systems in watchmaking, from mainspring barrel capacity to automatic winding and the chain and fusee, our technical series continues with a detailed examination of how that energy reaches the escapement. A vital part of all watch movements, gears are usually taken for granted and generally not given much thought. But upon closer look, gear tooth profiles vary in shape and size. These seemingly minor variations have big implications and reveal various calculated trade-offs. We take a closer look at the different gear profiles used in watchmaking and review their particularities and evolutions over time.  History and curves Mechanical timekeeping is inextricably linked to the concept of gears and transmissions. Long before the invention of the hairspring, early craftsmen and horologists were already using toothed wheels in conjunction with weights, verge escapements, and pendulums to measure the passage of time.  Historically, gear-cutters were separate professionals who catered to clock makers. Horological lore has it that the tooth profiles used during the 1600s were traced after the thumb’s shape, although it’s difficult find evidence for this theory. The invention of the hairspring marked a step-change in the technical evolution of the watch, and the later development of detached escapements enhanced precision further. These advances revealed transmission problems that had previously been masked by larger timing er...

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 2TV

Now beginning its second decade under the leadership of Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) has introduced the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, the first model in the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. The FB 2TV represents an evolution of the brand’s long-running chain-and-fusee architecture, adding zero-reset seconds and a flying tourbillon, and inverting the calibre to exhibit its key functional elements on the dial side. Initial thoughts It’s hard to believe that it has been ten years since the debut of Ferdinand Berthoud as a contemporary brand. It was clear from the outset that FB had big ambitions, launching its first model with a chain and fusee mechanism. Since then, FB has maintained admirably high standards for itself, and while not all of the designs appeal to me, the obvious effort that goes into every watch — each FB 2TV receives more than 300 hours of decoration — has won the brand a durable position near the top of the industry. Now beginning its second decade, FB has released the first watch in a new collection that portends a more mechanically expressive style, with features like the chain and fusee inverted to the dial side. This approach isn’t original, but the success of other ‘inverted’ movements from independents like Kari Voutilainen demonstrate demand for the format. Quirky designs Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th-century pioneer of the spring detent escapement among other breakthroughs, approached watchmaking fr...

Exclusive insider review: the new Watch Ho x Selten Yum Cha

Yum Cha, anyone? Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) has just unveiled its third anniversary club watch in collaboration with Selten, affectionately named Yum Cha (飲茶)

Review: Cleguer Horology Inspiration One, a technical masterpiece

Technical review of the Cleguer Horology Inspiration One. Explore Mathieu Cleguer’s proprietary Innate Escapement, movement finishing, and pricing.

Introducing - The Ceon GR-01, an Indie Watch Designed and Built in Brazil

Independent watchmaking sprouts far beyond well-known centres, and one of the latest examples comes from an unexpected country we largely associate with Carnival, samba, football legends, and the Amazon rainforest. Ceon Watch Co., a new atelier based in Curitiba, Brazil, reveals the GR-01, an ultra-thin integrated watch conceived, manufactured and hand-finished by founder Ricardo A. […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Ideal Watch Size Survey, Matador’s Reinvention, and Myspace’s Return

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Mark Cho’s Ideal Watch Size Survey is Back Co-founder of The Armoury and permanent resident on my own inspiration board, Mark Cho has once again put out his Ideal Watch Size Survey to the masses. For those unfamiliar, Cho first ran the survey from 2018 to 2021, asking participants about their actual wrist size, how they perceived their wrist size, and what they considered the ideal size for a watch. From this data, Cho and others, including ourselves, were able to glean information about industry trends, but also how those trends seem to affect the way we look at our own bodies. In fact, with nearly 1,000 respondents in the original survey, a significant percentage of people viewed their wrists as smaller than average, while Cho’s findings also pointed toward a growing interest in watches around the 37 to 39mm range (keep in mind, this was a time of Big Watch Supremacy in the marketplace). As with any data set, one can’t always say, “X equals Y,” but there is an interesting correlation (or is it causation? I always forget from my Statistics class) between what the industry makes, what collectors buy, and what we eventually convince ourselves we can wear. With...