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Review: Tutima Patria Admiral Blue SS
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
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Deployant
An extension to the elegant Tutima Patria line, now in stainless steel with either a magnificent cold enamel blue or grey dial. We review the Admiral Blue.
SJX Watches
Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.
Deployant
Highlights from Tutima next. And we begin with Patria, a line extension in SS, previously only in RG. Two versions, one as shown in Admiral blue cold enamel dial and a grey dial. Both with in-house hands. Movement is the CT617, 65hr power reserve. Case diameter 43mm. Price € 4,900 incl German VAT. Next aRead More
Deployant
We start Romain Gauthier with a new Insight Micro Rotor Black Titanium now with a blue grand feu enamel dial. RG makes the dial base and works with an enameling to apply the enamel and the final finishing of frosting is done in house by abrasive the shiny enamel finish to get the frosted look.Read More
Deployant
Kari Voutilainen introduces 6 new pieces with different dial variations this year. We highlight two which caught our eye. In Ti, gold, plat and SS. Case sizes 37, 39, 44. First the Vingt-8 in 39mm In rose gold with an amazing black grand feu enamel dial made in-house. CHF 89,000. The special execution is theRead More
Deployant
We divi right into the novelty. The Bridge. The first rectangular case with a firm movement. New caliber from LF. Two dial variations. In white enamel grand feu and in slate grey silver dial. CHF33,000 before taxes and CHF 37,000 for the enamel dial. Spherical sapphire over the dial. Laurent Ferrier Gallet Traveller and theRead More
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 wears the grand feu enamel dial of the 7147, which is the polar opposite of the equally traditional, if ornate, engine-turned dial of the 5377.
Deployant
In 2015, Laurent Ferrier launched the first version of a Galet Traveller with an enamel center dial featuring a world map. This initial view was Europe centric but in Laurent's mind, it was a first step to some other views of our planet to reflect its beauty and infinity. For this second version, Laurent Ferrier decided to focus on Asia and particularly on Singapore.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
So what's the deal with brightly colored dive watches and the design manufacturers pursue for the sake of legibility under water? Are these models more desirable or functional than others? Why are some brightly colored Seikos so difficult to find?
Deployant
Breguet released the latest Classique Tourbillon Automatique 5367 at Baselworld 2018. This time with a Grand Feu Enamel dial. The 5367 is iconic for its displaced tourbillon carriage, and off-center hours and minutes display.
Deployant
Breguet reveals its latest Classique rendition with the new Classique 7147 in enamel dial. The dial is complete with Breguet numerals, hands and an iconic d
Deployant
For Baselworld 2017, Breguet unveils the new Classique 7147, now with a grand feu enamel dial and Breguet numerals. Details and press release photos within.
Combining traditional design codes and ancestral techniques, Breguet’s new Classique 7147 with enamel dial is set to wow watch aficionados with a passion for horology’s past.
Deployant
Only Watch 2015: Kari Voutilainen GMT-6. A piece unique featuring a stunning Grand Feu enamel dial.
Time+Tide
Bringing the Italian craft of fabric weaving to their dials, these three new Arsène Lippens pieces add genuine texture.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko debuts four Presage Classic models in a new 38mm wide case with textured dials inspired by silk.
Monochrome
Few line-ups in Seiko‘s catalogue seem as focused on dials as the Presage Classic Series. While most new releases are quick to talk about case materials, bezels, or mechanics, the conversation here almost always starts with colour and texture. We have seen that through porcelain dials, open-heart references, and more recently, the 36mm “Edo Silk” […]
Fratello
It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for the Omega Speedmaster, and over the years, I’ve collected several of them. But beyond the watches, I also find myself collecting Moonwatch-related items, such as old catalogs, pins, pens, boxes, and books. To date, the best book on the topic is Moonwatch Only. From the […] Visit Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought to read the full article.
Monochrome
If Favre Leuba’s recent Deep Raider releases have taught us anything, it is that the brand is not slowing down. Spread across the past couple of weeks, we welcomed the Deep Raider Power Reserve, and the orange-accented Deep Raider Revival was unveiled not long ago too. Even before these, the brand had already reintroduced the […]
Time+Tide
Farer refreshes its GMT Bezel collection with two new colours, featuring sharp, striking guilloché dials and sapphire bezel inserts
Fratello
Every year, Praesidus commemorates D-Day with a string of special releases. This year, on June 6th, it will be 82 years since D-Day took place on the beaches of Normandy. On that day in 1944, a total of 156,000 Allied troops successfully stormed the French beaches during Operation Overlord. For this year’s releases, Preasidus releases […] Visit Praesidus Commemorates The 82nd Anniversary Of D-Day With The A-11 LMUV — Featuring Dials Made From Willys MB Jeeps to read the full article.
Hodinkee
What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...
Time+Tide
Awake refreshes its excellent Sơn Mài with a newly refined case, and a trio of incredibl, celestially-inspired guilloché dials
Monochrome
Like many microbrands, Singapore-based Horologically Unique was fueled by a passion for watches and the desire to create something personal, something that would first answer the own requirements of the creator. In this case, the idea was to offer a watch that respects as much as possible the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96, basically the blueprint […]
Monochrome
French brand Briston is known for its accessible sports watches that are easy-going and fun to wear, and the new Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean takes that same route. Much of the brand’s identity comes from the use of cellulose acetate cases, the same material often used for sunglasses, and on top of it, this is […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes. As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...
Monochrome
We’ve long come to understand that, during Watches and Wonders (where it releases almost its entire collection for the year), Rolex communicates only on certain of its novelties. What the brand considers the most important, the most relevant and the deepest updates. But, there’s very often more to the story than just what’s been presented […]
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward introduces a new duo to the Sealander line, refreshing both the GMT and the Automatic with new cases, dials, and bracelets
Teddy Baldassarre
A look at Serica watches, the French microbrand that has gained a reputation with newer collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Monochrome
Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]
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