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Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe consider enamel Jul 4, 2025

Inside Akrivia’s Enamel Workshop in Geneva

The world of Swiss watchmaking is a small one; everyone seems to know everyone. This is especially true among the exclusive ranks of enamellers. In total, there are about 120 practicing enamellers in Switzerland, largely concentrated in Geneva, which has been a leading hub for fine enamelling for more the 400 years. Of these, four artisans have recently taken up residence at Émailleurs de la Cité (EC) in Geneva’s Old Town. A newly established enamel workshop founded by Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia and Florent Olivier Martin, EC crafts a small number of grand feu enamel dials annually for Mr Rexhepi’s own watches and for select clients like Biver. Though recently opened, the workshop has the feel of a mature and highly organised operation, benefiting from the obvious experience of the staff – Mr Martin was formerly the production director at the respected dial specialist Olivier Vaucher – and the attention to detail for which Mr Rexhepi is known. The enamel workshop is a fitting addition to his growing empire, and is conveniently located just steps away from Akrivia’s watchmaking atelier on Grand-Rue, the picturesque cobblestone thoroughfare that runs through the Old Town. The hand-engraved gratté pattern is applied personally by Mr Rexhepi. The art of enamel Brands like Patek Philippe consider enamel a “rare handcraft”, and for good reason. While industrial groups like the Swatch Group seem to have largely mastered the production of quality enamel dials at (v...

Introducing - The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Celebrates the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Jun 26, 2025

Introducing - The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 Celebrates the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

It will come as no surprise that the fourth instalment of Breguet’s 250th-anniversary celebrations honours Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most celebrated invention: the gravity-defying tourbillon. Following the Souscription, the Seconde Rétrograde and the Type XX Chronograph, the release of the latest celebratory watch coincides with the day and month Abraham-Louis Breguet obtained a patent for his tourbillon […]

Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary SJX Watches
Ressence Fills Jun 17, 2025

Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Ressence is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its retailer in the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, in distinctly granular manner with the quirky, sand-filled Type 9 S75. A limited edition of only 20 pieces, the S75 is based on the recently introduced Type 9, the brand’s minimalist, entry-level model. The dial is coated with sand sourced from the seven Emirates that make up the desert country in the Arabian peninsula. Initial Thoughts Typically, sand, or any sort of grit for that matter, in watches is undesirable, but Ressence is challenging that perception. The hands do not cut through the sand as it may first appear. Instead, the sand is suspended in a clear adhesive, bonding it to the titanium discs that show the time. This might be somewhat disappointing for those who hoped that Ressence had overcome the physics of materials, but perfectly logical. Filling the watch with loose sand would create a more dynamic dial, it’d also require enormous torque to push through. Since sand is a coarse and rough natural abrasive that gets everywhere, it’d likely destroy the module anyway. Past Seddiqi editions by other brands did actually have loose sand within the case, but contained within a sealed module entirely separate from the movement and dial. While the sand might seem like a gimmick on the face of it, the granular surface adds a different, earthy, and even organic, texture to the traditional Ressence aesthetic of sleek, smooth, and mechanical. Moreover, cl...

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Blade Show Returns, The Garnet Goblin, and David Lynch’s Legacy Worn & Wound
May 31, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Blade Show Returns, The Garnet Goblin, and David Lynch’s Legacy

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Gearing up for Blade Show Atlanta Blade Show Atlanta, the world’s largest knife show and a cornerstone event for the EDC community, kicks off next weekend (June 6-8th). With over 900 exhibitors, including both renowned brands and custom makers, the show offers an unrivaled opportunity to explore the latest in EDC knives, tools, and carry accessories. Show attendees can discover cutting-edge designs and educational seminars, making it a hub for innovation and craftsmanship in the industry. In addition, the event also hosts the prestigious Blade Magazine Knife of the Year Awards, celebrating  design, quality, and functionality of blades tools. Beyond its role as a direct to consumer marketplace, Blade Show Atlanta fosters a vibrant community where enthusiasts, collectors, and professionals can connect, share knowledge, and celebrate their passion for quality gear.  You can check out a full list of vendors, show details, and purchase tickets, here. The Garnet Goblin There’s a real “What will they think of next?” quality to reading about the latest releases from Arcanaut. The independent brand, founded in Denmark in 2015, with the first watches appearing (and sel...

The Collector's Series - An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy Monochrome
May 29, 2025

The Collector's Series - An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy

It’s something we’ve told over and over again. Watchmaking isn’t only Swiss. Watchmaking is global and has, historically, been present all over the world. Surely, with industrialisation and the effects of the Quartz crisis, three giant hubs have emerged: Switzerland for high-end watches, Japan with its immense conglomerates and China, the silent factory… Italy surely […]

L’Epée 1839’s Surprising Imperial Hot Air Balloon Desk Clock SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton tapped L’Epée 1839 May 19, 2025

L’Epée 1839’s Surprising Imperial Hot Air Balloon Desk Clock

Swiss clock maker L’Epée 1839’s latest desk-bound timekeeper is the Imperial Hot Air Balloon, a unique piece that is uncharacteristically classical compared to the brand’s recent launches that have tended towards modernity. It’s essentially a highly decorated, elaborately styled variant of the no-frills Hot Air Balloon clock of 2018. L’Epée 1839 was absorbed into LVMH last year, and this shift towards more traditional clocks chimes with the luxury group’s focus on higher-end and artisanal watchmaking. Notably, Louis Vuitton tapped L’Epée 1839 for its own hot air ballon-shaped desk clock. Initial thoughts While most of L’Epée’s creations are undoubtedly interesting, blending sculptural mechanics with proprietary clock movements, the clockmaker was historically a maker of classically traditional mantlepiece clocks. Most of its creations from earlier decades were styled after carriage clock. While entirely sculptural in form, the Hot Air Balloon manages to look as it belongs to a bygone era of watchmaking. A métiers d’art creation, the unique piece is restrained and ornate, while being modern only in the way it displays the time. Otherwise, the miniature flying object would sit comfortably in a historical residence. Not to say that other L’Epée are not well executed, but their modern and structural constructions don’t usually allow for classic artisanal crafts to be put to good use. The Hot Air Ballon’s centrepiece is the blue enamelled surface...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora Worn & Wound
Fears Brunswick Aurora I’ve never May 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora

I’ve never really thought of myself as someone who jumps on trends. When it comes to music, movies, and other things I enjoy, I don’t pay much attention to whatever is in the zeitgeist at the moment. Or, more accurately, I don’t let whatever that is define my taste. I tend to be somewhat skeptical of whatever is becoming hyper popular at the moment. In watches, it’s fairly easy to spot a trend when it’s happening, but a bit more difficult to figure out what’s going to take hold before it actually happens. Jumping onto a trend in watches always seemed particularly silly to me. Watches have an heir of permanence embedded into them, so a “trend” in this hobby is anachronistic to what watch ownership is all about, and what a “good watch,” or one that ultimately stands the test of time, really is. Being trendy in watches carries a larger risk that you’ll wind up with regrets. Example: I don’t feel bad at all that I got really into Canadian post-rock when it had a moment during my college years. Twenty years later, it’s passed, but I still get excited when a new Godspeed You Black Emperor record is announced. Will watch enthusiasts who have collected every MoonSwatch variant still lose their minds over plastic watches a decade from now? Maybe, but it seems unlikely.  I’m not naive to the fact that we’re experiencing a trend with respect to mother of pearl and stone dials. It’s quite possible that at this very moment we might actually be on the ta...

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds Worn & Wound
Garrick Apr 25, 2025

Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds

One of my favorite stories in independent watchmaking over the last few years has been the evolution of Garrick, the Norwich based brand specializing in meticulously finished, custom made watches. In a relatively short time, the brand has transformed itself into something of an experimental haute horlogerie specialist. The first Garrick watch I can recall writing about was the S4, upon its announcement, which represented the entry point into the brand at around £4995 (in 2021). That watch was, and is, impressive, with a great deal of hand-work and a dizzying level of customization possible. But it would have been tough to predict that just four years later Garrick would be playing at another level entirely, flirting with GPHG honors, and offering bespoke watches that, if made by other, larger brands or more established watchmakers, would likely have price tags sailing into the six figures.  The new S3 Deadbeat Seconds release feels like a statement of purpose from Garrick. It is, as the brand puts it, “the pinnacle of Garrick ownership.” The watch itself is effectively a combination of two ideas the brand has been playing with over the last few years, the S3 Mk II (the GPHG finalist from last year featuring a completely openworked dial, focusing on the brand’s finishing capabilities), and the deadbeat seconds complication, as seen in the S2 Deadbeat. The new watch, then, features a deadbeat complication but is given an aesthetic treatment similar to the S3 Mk II, w...

First Look - The New And Quite Spectacular Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds Monochrome
Garrick Apr 25, 2025

First Look - The New And Quite Spectacular Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds

Garrick is a proudly independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England, known for crafting limited-run timepieces that resonate with collectors who appreciate heritage, individuality, and the brand’s ethos. Founded by David Brailsford and Simon Michelmayr, Garrick has come a long way since its launch in 2014, steadily moving more of its production in-house to deepen […]

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations Time+Tide
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly Apr 24, 2025

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations

The new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 celebrates the brand's 250th anniversary with a watch inspired by its 1790s pocket watches.The post The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter” Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary Apr 23, 2025

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter”

It feels like Furlan Marri has been around longer than four years, doesn’t it? Their trajectory from “Kickstarter brand” to one of the most consistently interesting small indies/micros/whatever has been fascinating to watch simply because it doesn’t correlate at all with the typical growth of a watch brand, regardless of the size. They are doing interesting things that are purely design driven (like the Disco Volante I reviewed last year) but are also pushing the envelope when it comes to mechanical watchmaking. They have fully transcended, in my opinion, all of the baggage that comes with launching on Kickstarter, to the point that we don’t even think about how it all started unless we’re intentionally meant to look back, which is part and parcel with an anniversary watch release like this one.  To celebrate four years, Furlan Marri has unveiled the Red Hunter, a watch meant to pay tribute to classic hunter-case pocket watches and officer-style wrist watches. This is the brand’s first watch to measure 36mm in diameter, which I guess is a little surprising considering the vintage inspiration that runs through all of Furlan Marri’s designs, and the conventional wisdom that 36mm is perhaps the most classic, universal watch diameter. In any event, the size makes a lot of sense here when taken together with all the other little vintage inspired details. Let’s start with the dial, which is a new design from Furlan Marri. It’s a black lacquer with a subtle s...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air] Worn & Wound
Richard Mille Apr 7, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air]

Ulysse Nardin once again entered Watches & Wonders with only one watch. I like this strategy, as it allows a brand to really focus on storytelling and helping the press, retailers, and other guests understand what their new novelty is all about. Many Watches & Wonders meetings can feel a bit rushed as tray after tray of watches is passed around and given a full explanation. But Ulysse Nardin, by comparison, is a leisurely experience, and the information really sticks. I always come away from their big spring novelty impressed, and this year, with the debut of the new Dive [Air] was no exception.  The Dive [Air] sees Ulysse Nardin at their most experimental, pursuing the type of ultralight watchmaking that has driven brands like Richard Mille (the obvious point of comparison) over the past decade. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Dive [Air] is the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, with a case that tips the scales at just 46 grams (with the elastic strap, the watch weighs 52 grams). I’m sure the Ulysse Nardin team had fun all week handing the watch over to people like me and watching their faces as the weight (or, lack thereof) sunk in. To be clear, 52 grams is disconcertingly light. It’s the type of light that makes you believe your mind is playing a trick on you, or that the watch might be a fake, some plastic, Happy Meal toy. But it’s not, of course, a toy. It’s a 44mm diver that sees Ulysse Nardin pushing their own technical limits, and coming up with ing...

The Rolex Land-Dweller is Here: We Got a Watchmaker’s Perspective on the Crown’s New Dynapulse Movement Technology Worn & Wound
Rolex Land-Dweller Apr 1, 2025

The Rolex Land-Dweller is Here: We Got a Watchmaker’s Perspective on the Crown’s New Dynapulse Movement Technology

In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details.  Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...

Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Becomes the World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Mar 31, 2025

Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Becomes the World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch

Celebrating its grand 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers atelier presents a record-breaking watch with no fewer than 41 complications. Still holding the record for the world’s most complex pocket watch, the Berkley, itself beating its own reference 57260, Vacheron now claims the title for the world’s most complicated wristwatch, overtaking the Franck Muller […]

The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines Mar 25, 2025

The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time

Czapek's integrated sports watch gets a new in-house flying tourbillon movement and gorgeous guilloché dial for Watches and Wonders 2025.The post The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tempo Rubato: the World’s First Mechanical Wrist-Metronome by Gaku Okada Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Mar 24, 2025

Tempo Rubato: the World’s First Mechanical Wrist-Metronome by Gaku Okada

I first came across a short video of the Tempo Rubato metronome on Instagram. Before I could message my contact in Japan who posted it, I already had an email waiting for me in the inbox from him introducing this wrist metronome device and its creator to me. I exchanged emails to understand Gaku Okada’s background and details of his wrist metronome.  Okada was born in 2002 in Hokkaido and was influenced by music from an early age, especially jazz drumming. Unlike many watchmakers, he did not cultivate a specific interest in watches, however he did develop a knack for making complex mechanical components.  After graduating from high school, his skills brought him to Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, for watchmaking classes. During his freshman year, Okada developed the concept of a mechanical wrist metronome. This idea originated from his practical need as a jazz drummer, as he frequently sought a method to quickly and accurately establish tempo before performances. Although electronic metronomes were readily available, he wanted to create a compact mechanical device that could be worn as a watch. As a student at the watchmaking school, Okada started part time work at the Precision Watch Tokyo company, working with watchmakers Hajime Asaoka and Jiro Katayama. Asaoka is a well known master watchmaker and the creator of the Kurono Tokyo and Takano brands. Katayama is the founder of the popular Otsuka Lotec brand. Under their mentorship, Okada developed his skills and acquir...

Frédéric Arnault Departs LVMH Watches, to Become Loro Piana CEO SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 13, 2025

Frédéric Arnault Departs LVMH Watches, to Become Loro Piana CEO

A year after being tapped to head the LVMH Watch Division, Frédéric Arnault has been named the next chief executive of Loro Piana. Mr Arnault will assume the top job at the Italian maker of clothing and shoes in June 2025. Loro Piana is synonymous with “quiet luxury” for its emphasis on materials, restrained colours, and discreet branding, but it has become successful enough that the Loro Piana look is ironically recognisable while its trademark Summer Walk boat shoes have become footwear’s equivalent of the steel Rolex Daytona. Though only 18 months long, Mr Arnault’s leadership of the French group’s watch brands saw a management renewal across all its three brands, namely TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, as well as the announcement of a group-wide strategy for movement industrialisation and production. The period has also been a challenging one for the watch industry, with a sustained pullback in demand for watches that peaked during the pandemic. According to insiders, Mr Arnault also played a leading role in sealing the decade-long sponsorship deal with Formula 1. His ascension to the top job at Loro Piana part of succession planning at LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group. Mr Arnault’s successor at the watch division has yet to be announced, but his predecessor at Loro Piana, Damien Bertrand, will move onto the deputy chief executive job at Louis Vuitton.  

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Sigma’s New Camera, A Lost Backpack Saves A Duo, and The iPhone 16E Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 1, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Sigma’s New Camera, A Lost Backpack Saves A Duo, and The iPhone 16E

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The Sigma BF: Minimalism Meets Photography This week Sigma announced a brand new camera, the BF, which is “stripped to the essence but packed with power” according to Sigma. In an age where every generation of cameras has more than the last, the BF stripped away everything they deemed unnecessary. Looking at the BF, you won’t find a normal grip, a hot shoe, or even an SD card slot, as the BF comes with 230GB of internal storage. The BF does feature a singular USB-C port, through which you can download your images and charge the camera, if you wish. The BF’s L mount allows for compatibility with many lenses, including 9 matching Sigma lenses. Apple’s Newest iPhone: The 16E Much like the Sigma BF, Apple’s newest iPhone, the 16E, offers consumers a minimalist and cheaper option among their current offerings. Maybe it’s better described as a “basic” iPhone, the 16E features a single camera, a 60hz display, and a cheaper price point, coming in at $599 for the 128gb model. While creating the 16E and removing certain features, Apple also decided to remove Magsafe, much to the dismay of many. Some fans may enjoy this new, simplistic offering, but  as the Ver...