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Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? Aug 15, 2025

Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On)

As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out! What We Love: A perfectly executed contemporary design Extremely well-built and highly wearable Surprising value proposition, even among similar pieces What We Don’t: Clasp feels unnecessarily long Scratch and smudge magnet Movement finishing – Too little, too late? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time. Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stan...

Hands On: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph SJX Watches
De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph De Aug 15, 2025

Hands On: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph

De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...

First Look – The New Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with “Plasma” and “Fusion” Dials Monochrome
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Aug 14, 2025

First Look – The New Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with “Plasma” and “Fusion” Dials

Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, introduced in 2014, captured the design groove of 1970s watches with TV-shaped profiles. However, instead of settling for an accomplished vintage-inspired watch, GO went that extra mile and equipped it with its signature Panorama date display and a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement. Unafraid of colour, the Seventies strides in […]

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today” SJX Watches
Aug 11, 2025

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”

Having re-emerged in 2021 with the debut of his new brand and the launch of the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, Franc Vila is back with the FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”, a watch that challenges conventional notions of timekeeping with a good-humoured twist on the traditional day of the week display. Leveraging its predecessor’s ultralight 42.5 mm titanium case and integrated flying tourbillon movement, the Today questions the difference between the days of the week, with a day roller that displays the word ‘today’ in a different font for each day. While over time the wearer might learn to associate particular fonts with particular days, the otherwise functional day roller is intended to be a reminder to not take things too seriously – today is all we have. Initial thoughts I didn’t really know what to expect the first time I stepped off the elevator into Mr Vila’s brightly lit, attic workshop in Geneva’s Saint Gervais neighbourhood. The workshop itself is part of the story, housed in what was once very likely home to a cabinotier, a term that refers to a watchmaker operating from a rooftop workshop once favoured by Genevan watchmakers of old, who preferred to work where they could get plenty of natural light. Beyond the typical watchmaking equipment, and even some atypical equipment like a perlage machine with a mysterious past, the workshop is packed with contemporary art from Mr Vila’s personal collection. Talking with him about these sources o...

Sherpa Introduces the New Atoll and Tuxedo Versions of the Ultradive Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2025

Sherpa Introduces the New Atoll and Tuxedo Versions of the Ultradive

Sherpa has announced a pair of new Ultradive references, expanding their core dive watch line. Sherpa launched in 2021 with a relatively narrow focus, which is honestly something I appreciate in a time period where too many watch brands want to be all things to all people. They make extremely specific dive watches, with compressor cases, and infuse each watch with principles of Buddhism literally built into the movement (the brand’s founder, Martin Klocke, is a practicing Buddhist). The new Ultradive watches, the Tuxedo and the Atoll, bring some variety to the collection without changing things up too dramatically.  Before getting into the specifics of each watch, it’s important to step back a bit and familiarize ourselves with the compressor case concept. It’s a technology that has been nearly lost to time as manufacturing has improved across the board and creating highly water resistant watches has, in general, become easier. But it’s an important part of dive watch history and watchmaking history in general. These cases, originally developed by Ervin Piquerez SA (otherwise known as EPSA), essentially employed a specially designed caseback that would seal under light pressure when not submerged in water, but under increasing pressure, the seal would become tighter and tighter. These cases rather ingeniously used the force of the water pressure against the case to its own benefit. Over the years, several versions of this EPSA case were developed, and Sherpa has a...

The Op Art-Inspired Anoma A1 Optical is Not an Illusion SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Aug 4, 2025

The Op Art-Inspired Anoma A1 Optical is Not an Illusion

Anoma made its debut last summer and has just released its third model, the A1 Optical. Without departing too far from what made the previous models attractive and affordable, the latest variant features a CNC guilloché dial with a shimmering optical effect. For the design of the dial, Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello was inspired by the works of Bridget Riley and Ferruccio Gard, instrumental figures in the optical art movement. There are two dial options for the Optical; copper and silver. The copper option is the livelier of the two and will inevitably be called a salmon dial. Alternatively, the silver-treated option gives the watch a distinctly black-and-white feel. Interestingly, the first 150 pieces in each dial finish will be delivered with a related artwork commissioned from optical artist Adam Fuhrer. After the first 300 pieces have been delivered, regular production (sans artwork) will commence. Initial thoughts It’s rare to find watchmaking at this price point that is distinctive enough to sell without a name on the dial, but Anoma is betting the A1’s pebble-like triangular case is a recognisable enough calling card to dispense with the branding. It was the right call, because the Optical is all about its dial and the shimmering optical illusion created by programmatic guilloché. In some ways the dial motif is similar in concept to the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando, but the triangular pattern and three-dimensional texture will result in a more engag...

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date Aug 1, 2025

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date

With a new movement and a refined case, we take out the new TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date for a spin to see how this new release stacks up for the watch that is so closely linked with motor sport. What We Love The new TH31-02 Movement with increased power reserve The ease of wear and comfort on the wrist The pops of colour on the grained black dial What We Don’t Lack of a screw-down crown Lack of Super-LumiNova on the dial The Day-Date aesthetic may not be for everyone Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 So, I’m going to start this review by stealing a little from my TAG Heuer-loving co-worker, Mario. Why? Well, as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, or “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”, or “don’t reinvent the wheel”. In any case, Mario gave a great summation of this particular line of TAG Heuer Carreras in his write-up for them when they were released at Watches & Wonders this year. The Backstory (From Mario) By the early 2000s, Carrera chronographs were already well-established, but the newly LVMH-acquired TAG Heuer sought to create a watch that could display time as legibly and efficiently as its chronographs could record it. This vision materialised in the form of the Carrera three-hand timepieces, translating the timeless, functional design of the Carrera into a pure time-and-date model. These quickly became a staple of the modern TAG Heuer roster, as the cl...

Rolex Land-Dweller Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jul 31, 2025

Rolex Land-Dweller Review

It's no understatement to say that the Rolex Land-Dweller was the talk of Watches & Wonders 2025, which took place in Geneva a few months ago. A new Rolex collection with an integrated bracelet and a brand new movement? Well, we would expect no less. There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago, in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that, there were variations on the Yacht-Master. The launch of the Land-Dweller proved to be one of those milestone moments.  The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news. As you likely have seen by now, Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of this year's Watches & Wonders a few months ago (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mech...

The Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Datomaster VK63 V3 Is Finally Here Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Jul 30, 2025

The Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Datomaster VK63 V3 Is Finally Here

The Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Datomaster VK63 V3 is the third collaboration between the two brands in as many years. Originally designed to accompany a Valjoux 72-powered chronograph, the VK63, with its Sii VK Meca-Quartz movement, provided a fun and affordable but equally stylish counterpart. The VK63 model stands alone for the third collaboration, featuring a unique, head-turning colorway. The Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Datomaster VK63 V3 is the third collaboration between the two brands in as many years. Originally designed to accompany a Valjoux 72-powered chronograph, the VK63, with its Sii VK Meca-Quartz movement, provided a fun and affordable but equally stylish counterpart. The VK63 model stands alone for the third collaboration, featuring a unique, head-turning colorway. The post The Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Datomaster VK63 V3 Is Finally Here appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Jul 28, 2025

Hands On: Hublot Big Bang Unico in Mint Green Ceramic

One of the year’s best summer watches, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic is a fresh interpretation of the brand’s signature collection. Housed in a 42 mm case clad in candy-like, mint green ceramic, the Big Bang Unico features Hublot’s top-of-the-line HUB1280 flyback chronograph movement with an unusual, dial-side integrated construction. While technically identical to other ceramic Big Bang watches, the new mint green colour is unusually fun and approachable. This new edition of the Big Bang joins the permanent collection, and extends the brand’s industry-leading range of coloured ceramic watches. Initial thoughts Hublot is a brand that tends to elicit visceral polarisation among collectors, and it’s easy to see why. The bold designs are seen as outrageous by some, and the pricing puts them out of reach for those focused on maximising their horological dollar. But Hublot has outgrown its early reputation as a Royal Oak imitator and found its own identity, in part through its leadership in ceramics and willingness to experiment with design and colour. In this case, the mint green colour looks great, and considering the glossy finish, it looks almost like candy. This gives the watch a friendly countenance that results in an amusing tension with the overtly masculine, technical structure of the case and design of the dial, with its stencil-like hour markers. The Big Bang collection is all about its signature architectural case, and the mint green editio...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 25, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne refreshes its arguably most avant-garde collection with the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold matched with a dark grey dial. The new Zeitwerk Date joins the existing model in white gold as a regular production model, and retains the L043.8 movement featuring the signature digital time display driven by a constant force mechanism. The Zeitwerk Date is one of Lange’s simplest watches in terms of information displayed – just the time and date – but stands out as one of the brand’s most technically complex creations. Despite the low volume of production and esoteric mechanics, the Zeitwerk is also one of Lange’s most iconic models, alongside the Lange 1 and Datograph, thanks to its striking design that departs from the usual aesthetics of the normally staid brand. Initial Thoughts While the original Zeitwerk Date in white gold was the first of the second-generation Zeitwerk, bringing with it sweeping changes to the Zeitwerk movement, the new model is stylistic variation that serves to fill a gap in the collection. It offers more choice (actually just a binary choice) for someone looking for a Zeitwerk that is more complex than the base model, but not ready to go all the way to the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that costs five times as much. The original Zeitwerk Date was a good, perhaps even great, watch inside and out, and this is too – though it could probably could have come a little sooner. It’s still a large watch, but the bulk is easy to justify consi...

The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999 is Distinctly Japanese High Horology SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models While Credor Jul 24, 2025

The Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999 is Distinctly Japanese High Horology

Credor returns to its first-ever tourbillon with the Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999, a watch that emphasises traditional Japanese craftsmanship with maki-e lacquerwork and hand engraving. Tracing its lineage back to the inaugural Seiko tourbillon that was launched in 2016, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is equipped with an improved tourbillon movement featuring a clever twist. Despite its elaborate decoration, the Goldfeather possesses a far more subdued look than its 2016 predecessor, the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon, which was not only decorated in maki-e and engraving but also set with blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Credor timepieces are almost always appealing propositions, since they usually sit somewhere between more affordable Seiko watches and high-end Grand Seiko models. While Credor is often synonymous with simple but highly decorated watches – like the famous Eichi II – its catalogue boasts truly noteworthy examples of complications. The new Goldfeather Tourbillon is one of these noteworthy watches. It’s a relatively restrained watch but executed with an impressive level of quality, especially in its decoration that is uniquely Japanese. And the slim movement is uniquely Credor in style and finish. In terms of hand finishing inside and out, the makers of the Goldfeather Tourbillon cut no corners. The Goldfeather’s form is inspired by a model from the 1960s; the clean case design is clearly suggestive of those times. The overall look manages to blend classical...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref Jul 23, 2025

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

First Look – The Delightful Warmth of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Jul 22, 2025

First Look – The Delightful Warmth of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold

 After setting ten world records with its Octo Finissimo range in eleven years, Bulgari’s dominance in the ultra-slim arena is incontestable. The seventh ultra-thin model, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual, conquered the market in 2021. A highly prized complication, the perpetual calendar is powered by an impressively slim movement with a thickness of just 2.75mm. However, […]

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Jul 18, 2025

Hands On: Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009

Grand Seiko returns to its Sport Collection with an even bolder and edgier take on its flagship chronograph with the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Combining an oversized case Brilliant Hard Titanium and a high-spec, high-beat chronograph movement, the striking new is Tentagraph is surprisingly not an all-new design but an iterative evolution that builds on the existing Sport Collection case. Initial Thoughts While a strength of Seiko itself, chronometry-focused Grand Seiko has historically struggled with sports watches, though not for lack of trying. In 2019 Grand Seiko launched the angular and aggressive Sport case featuring a facetted, polygonal form with a sapphire-covered bezel to celebrate 20 years of Spring Drive. Grand Seiko intended the design to evoke the mane of the brand’s lion mascot. In 2023 came the regular production Tokyo Lion series, and the brand also extended the design language into its jewelled Masterpiece watches. The “lion’s mane” case design reminds me of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept, and with the addition of an octagonal bezel the resemblance has only grown, though I wouldn’t say it is derivative – if anything the Grand Seiko case is a more boisterous take on the 45GS design from the late 1960s. The earlier Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC275 with a less stylised case design I quite liked the Sport case when it was launched in 2019, especially the rose gold SBGC230, but it felt unfinished with a round bezel and buttons. With...

Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Dressed in German Silver SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Blast Free Wheel Jul 16, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Dressed in German Silver

Ulysse Nardin presents a surprisingly striking new version of its most forward-thinking tourbillon, the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. An interesting blend of classic finishing and bold, three-dimensional architecture, the limited edition piece is unlike the generally future-forward aesthetic pushed by Ulysse Nardin in recent years. The latest Blast Free Wheel retains the novel movement construction with elevated moving parts and a constant force mechanism integrated inside the tourbillon, but now set against a traditional, grained plate in maillechort, or German silver. Initial thoughts The Free Wheel is a long established collection, having been rolled out in several case styles over time, but this new incarnation is arguably the best one yet. The Le Locle-based brand is known for its overall loud designs and its tendency to push a very modernist look, so the old-school approach with maillechort is unexpected but appealing. The Blast Free Wheel still retains a somewhat loud case design, but the modernism here is more restrained and the futuristic movement is toned down by its finishing. As the name suggests, the main point is maillechort, a brass alloy better known as German silver. Long employed in historical watches, the material is usually associated with classic timepieces from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne or artisanal watchmakers, but here it compliments the avant-garde movement well. The soft silver-grey hue of the German silver serves as an excellent backdrop for...

Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star Fratello
Jul 9, 2025

Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star

CIGA Design continues to develop its GPHG-award-winning formula, first showcased on the Blue Planet. A customized movement utilizing an in-house complication displays the time in a manner distinct from a typical watch. The perfectly round, interstellar-like case often houses a dial featuring our planet. Today, that changes with the new CIGA Design × Label Noir […] Visit Introducing: The CIGA Design × Label Noir Black Star to read the full article.

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology Fratello
Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology As Jul 8, 2025

While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology

As watch fans, we’re relatively accustomed to hearing about technical innovations. Normally, these result in benefits in timekeeping accuracy, power reserve, or shock resistance. However, many of these watches use traditional mechanical movements. Armin Strom’s claim to fame is its mastery of the Resonance movement. Today, we’ll provide an overview of the technology behind these […] Visit While My Watch Gently Resonates: How Armin Strom Perfected Resonance Technology to read the full article.

Citizen Tsuyosa Review Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jul 8, 2025

Citizen Tsuyosa Review

The Citizen Tsuyosa debuted back in 2022 as an integrated bracelet watch with a mechanical movement that was truly affordable with a price under $500. While the Tsuyosa collection was initially a little difficult to get in the US, Citizen started to ship these watches to the States a few months after the initial release. Since then it’s been a popular enough watch although I do think it has eluded the runaway cult classic success of something like the Tissot PRX for reasons that could have to do with marketing as well as a more subdued design that is more dress watch than a retro-inspired sports watch. There have been a couple of iterations of the Tsuyosa since it was released including a slightly more premium central seconds model and a smaller 37mm iteration released earlier in 2025. I will address both of these at the end of the article with a breakdown of what’s different, better, and worse from the standard 40mm reviewed here. The Citizen Tsuyosa finds some inspiration from the old NH299 series which was popular in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. The one design touch that separates the Tsuyosa from a lot of its competitors was also borrowed from the NH299: the small off-center crown seen at 4 o’clock. As a brief aside, I know some people cannot stand a crown at 4 o’clock due to symmetry but I would argue a large protruding crown at 3 o’clock creates far more asymmetry than one sitting so flushly at 4 o’clock. So, let’s get into the Citizen Tsuyosa and w...

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a Green Marble Dial Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Jul 7, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a Green Marble Dial

Incredibly, only eleven years have elapsed since Bulgari pitted its first gladiator in the arena of ultra-thin watches. Not only did the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon of 2014 astonish the world with its razor-thin, record-breaking 1.95mm tourbillon movement, but it also conquered the hearts of many with its seductive Italian good looks. With ten world records […]