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First Look – Tissot Is Revving Up With The New T-Race MotoGP 75th Anniversary Chronograph Monochrome
Tissot Mar 7, 2024

First Look – Tissot Is Revving Up With The New T-Race MotoGP 75th Anniversary Chronograph

The Tissot T-Race series holds a prominent position in Tissot’s catalogue, a testament to the brand’s history in sports timing, including motor racing. Tissot has been the official MotoGP timekeeper since 2001, and colleagues report Tissot’s T-Race watches are frequently spotted at race events globally, underlining their association with the fast-paced world of racing. Special […]

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

First Look – The New Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical Incl Feb 22, 2024

First Look – The New Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical (Incl. Video)

Drawing from over 170 years of watchmaking heritage, Tissot frequently delves into its archives for inspiration. The company has a penchant for reviving iconic models that have left an indelible mark on its history. Consider any timepiece from the Heritage series – the 1973 Chronograph, the 1938 Heritage COSC, the Visodate, or the 1938 Telemeter […]

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System Worn & Wound
Montblanc Ralph Lauren Tiffany & Feb 20, 2024

A Whimsical Look at the LEGO Watch System

There’s a storied history of non-watch companies making the foray into the watch world. Montblanc, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co. Some of them are even quite good–the Hermès H08, for example, is simply stunning and unlike anything else on the market. But none of these forays into watchmaking is quite as quirky, quite as unexpected, or quite as downright amusing as the LEGO Watch System. I discovered the LEGO Watch System, and specifically those released in 2013 which after some research seem to be the best since LEGO launched the product in 1996, on January 28, National LEGO Day, as luck would have it, through a random recommended post on Instagram. The 2013 LEGO Watch System was produced for adults, unlike its predecessors–no Nexo Knights minifigures included with these. The designs ranged from zero LEGO design references–like a black and yellow dial with arabic numerals that just featured the LEGO logo–to those with subtle LEGO design cues–such as the models with two-stud LEGO pieces for indices–to models that wanted zero confusion about who made these watches–like the model that features a pirate skull and crossbones made out of LEGO bricks or the one that’s just a big LEGO minifig face in the middle of the dial. Uniting all of these disparate aesthetics is a modular design that lets you switch and swap parts. The bezels, straps or bracelets and their links are all interchangeable, giving owners increased customization over their timepieces. Powered by a...

First Look – The new Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection Monochrome
Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection Feb 15, 2024

First Look – The new Omega Constellation 41mm Meteorite Collection

One of the oldest collections in Omega’s history, the Constellation has been around since 1952 (only surpassed in longevity by the Seamaster). First a classic, elegant chronometer-rated watch, the Omega Constellation drastically changed in the 1980s with the introduction of the Constellation Manhattan distinguished by its integrated design and hallmark claws. Revived in 2019 with […]

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets a Sleek Grey Dial Monochrome
Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets Feb 7, 2024

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets a Sleek Grey Dial

Despite offering a plethora of well-designed and attractively priced watches, coupled with a rich history, Junghans relishes its somewhat under-the-radar reputation. Integral to Junghans’ contemporary image are the original Meister timepieces dating back to the 1930s and the iconic Max Bill collection, which debuted in the 1960s when the esteemed Bauhaus designer collaborated with the […]

Hands-On With The New Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Years Of Automatic Spring Drive Watches Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Years Of Automatic Spring Drive Watches

Automatic Spring Drive technology turns 20 this year! That seems like a fair reason for celebration. Grand Seiko felt the same and introduced this SBGA497 to mark the occasion. We get a high-intensity titanium creation with a familiar case shape and dial texture. Both pay homage to important references in Spring Drive history. The SBGA497 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Grand Seiko SBGA497 - Celebrating 20 Years Of Automatic Spring Drive Watches to read the full article.

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica Fratello
Breguet JLC Feb 2, 2024

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica

Just like many of you, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the shots of enthusiasts’ five-watch collections on Instagram. In a way, it’s nice to see people struggle to pick their five favorite watches (is that horological schadenfreude?). Above all, though, it’s amusing to find out which watches people choose as their favorites and why. Up […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Sporting French National Colours Monochrome
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Jan 30, 2024

Introducing – The New Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Sporting French National Colours

The connection between classic cars and Chopard isn’t to be demonstrated anymore. Beyond the brand’s co-CEO passion for vintage automobiles, the brand has been associated with the emblematic Mille Miglia race since 1988. In the frame of this partnership, Chopard developed a dedicated collection of racing chronographs, with now 35 years of history under the […]

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Breitling, Panerai, And Cartier Fratello
Breitling Panerai Jan 30, 2024

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Breitling, Panerai, And Cartier

Building a compact collection that ticks all the boxes is a recurring challenge in the world of watches. And whether it’s hypothetically whittling down or building a dream draft of watches, it can be a lot of fun. Today, we kick off a series in which members of the Fratello editorial team hack through their […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Breitling, Panerai, And Cartier to read the full article.

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price Fratello
IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks Jan 23, 2024

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price

Today, we’ll take a look at a vintage IWC 309, a watch that attracted me due to its likeness to another watch. This classic is no copycat, though, as it brings enough unique styling flourishes to the party. We also have the chance to discuss one of the more heralded movements in history. At the […] Visit Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication Compl... Jan 22, 2024

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication

Complicated watches are crucial to Audemars Piguet’s history, starting from its establishment in 1875 to the modern day; Audemars Piguet (AP) even supplied “ultra” complication movements to other brands in the late 19th and early 20th century. But it was in 2022 that the brand debuted its most impressive complicated watch – arguably the most impressive ever – the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. “Ultra” complications with multiple functions are de rigueur for important watch brands, from Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe, so the Universelle RD#4 is unsurprising given the status of Audemars Piguet as one of the traditional “holy trinity” of Swiss watchmaking. The Universelle RD#4 is surprising, however, in its execution. The Universelle RD#4 is not merely another oversized and extremely complicated watch. Instead it has been thoughtfully designed to be unexpectedly user-friendly and wearable. In fact, the slim and sophisticated construction of its cal. 1000 is as much of an accomplishment as the long list of complications it offers. Put another way, the cal. 1000 is a masterclass in achieving the right balance between complexity, usability, and wearability. The historical Universelle pocket watch from 1899 in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet that served as inspiration for its modern-day namesake An overview The Universelle RD#4 is an “ultra” complication – there’s no other way to describe it. The watch ticks the boxe...

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex Fratello
Citizen s Jan 20, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex

When you read the name Zenith, what comes to mind? Radios? Televisions? Well, at one point in its history, the watch brand Zenith was owned by the Zenith Radio Corporation of America, so that’s not completely weird, especially if you’re American. But for non-US citizens and, in particular, watch-focused ones, Zenith means El Primero - […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex to read the full article.

First Look – The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection Jan 18, 2024

First Look – The New Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Collection

Hamilton has a particularly rich history in the production of rugged tool watches. Starting with high-precision pocket watches for railroad companies in the late 19th and early 20th century, Hamilton went on to supply the U.S. Armed Forces and Navy in both World Wars with marine chronometers and robust wristwatches. With the advent of aviation, […]

Introducing – The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary Monochrome
Jan 16, 2024

Introducing – The Unexpected Delma 1924 Tourbillon, Marking the Brand’s 100th Anniversary

Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]

Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement Reviewed by Tim Mosso: The Best Tourbillon that You are Unlikely to have Heard Of Quill & Pad
Arnold & Son Jan 13, 2024

Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement Reviewed by Tim Mosso: The Best Tourbillon that You are Unlikely to have Heard Of

The Arnold & Son True Beat Tourbillon Escapement (TBTE) embodies two of the Swiss watch industry’s greatest talents: craftsmanship and AstroTurf. Beautifully built but tenuously tied to an historical dead guy, the True Beat is a triumph on substance. With essentially no history but outstanding modern credentials, this tourbillon proves that talent alone can yield a great watch.