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Monochrome
Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Today, the final installment of The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Here, Andrew Canter examines the story behind the co-axial escapement, invented by George Daniels, industrialized by Omega, and now considered one of the great watchmaking innovations of all time. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. George Daniels (1926 – 2011) was raised in London in poverty. Aged five, he pried open his family’s alarm clock and realised that it was a metaphor for his life – always moving inexorably onwards, but without outside assistance. He was determined to learn horology, despite his parents’ opposition. He was conscripted into military service in 1944 which unleashed his innate mechanical skills, and following the end of the war, he studied horology, while repairing watches in North London. He gained access to the work of the greatest watchmakers, particularly Abraham-Louis Breguet, through a meeting with a collector, and when it seemed that quartz technology would overwhelm traditional watchmaking, Daniels ensured this would not come to fruition. He made a series of increasingly ingenious mechanical watches, heavily influenced by Breguet, teaching himself to make every part, now referred to as the ‘Daniels Method’. Essentially, he devised a virtually oil-free escapement – the now iconic co-axial escapement – which was later mass-produced by Omega. It was anything but an easy journey, but George D...
SJX Watches
Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...
Worn & Wound
Watch history is often the story of unsung heroes. Zenith is commonly credited as the creator of the first automatic chronograph, while their collaborator Movado is often a footnote, if mentioned at all. The Omega Speedmaster, famously the first watch worn on the moon, gets most of the street cred when discussing out-of-this-world watches. However, any mention of the actual first watch worn in space, the Sturmanskie, is a deep cut rarely discussed. Mid-century watch cases tend to follow the same trend. While brands like Rolex, IWC and Zenith were busy becoming household names, the third party manufacturers making the cases of their renowned classics worked diligently in the shadows. One such case designer and manufacturer was Dennison, a brand you may never have heard of, but undoubtedly handled if you are a fan of vintage luxury Swiss watches. Founded in 1874 by Aaron Lufkin Dennison (who the ALD collection is named after), Dennison became a powerhouse of both design forward and spec focused watch cases. Their patented air and water tight cases could be found on the wrists of members of the British Military, housed the famous Smith dials that submitted Everest in 1953 and even accompanied Lt. Commander Lithgow when he broke the world air speed record. Dennison went dormant after the 1960’s and, like many other once-defunct brands that followed suit with the emergence of the quartz crisis, has risen from the ashes. Resurrection stories can be hit and miss, leading many e...
WatchAdvice
Ahead of the Las Vegas F1 Grand Prix, TAG Heuer has dropped a new Monaco Chronograph with a hot pink skeletonised dial, and we’ve had the pleasure of test-driving this piece for a week prior to the launch. What We Love: The hot pink dial – trust me, it grows on you! The lightness combined with the rubber strap makes it super easy to wear The faceted sapphire crystal is unique and adds depth to the watch What We Don’t: The square shape is not my preferred case shape Lack of a screw-down crown on a 100m WR sports watch The watch is on the thicker side and takes a little to get used to Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 TAG Heuer and Formula 1 seem to be inextricably linked, not surprising given the Swiss brand’s history with motorsport all the way back to the 1960s. This link is further solidified with their watches – one carrying the famed sport’s namesake in the TAG Heuer Formula 1, the other with the Monaco, one of the most iconic F1 races, gaining fame thanks to Steve McQueen wearing the piece in his 1971 film, Le Mans. Yes, it wasn’t F1, but a screen legend wearing a sports watch prominently on the wrist in a film about another iconic motorsport event helped to put the Monaco front and centre. While the materials and designs these days a lot more modern, the classic Monaco DNA is still there and instantly recognisable. So it comes as no surprise that TAG Heuer would drop their latest M...
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Monochrome
The Aikon collection was a sequel to Maurice Lacroix’s best-selling, sporty Calypso line from the 1990s. Following the launch of the first model with a quartz-powered movement in 2016, the Aikon upgraded its offer with mechanical movements in 2018. Moving beyond traditional stainless steel cases, the Aikon has appeared with bronze, PVD, titanium, and even […]
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Return of the Universal Geneve Polerouter Things are stirring at Universal Geneve. Just a few weeks ago in this very column, we brought you news of the reformed brand’s exhaustive new website, which features a ton of info on UG’s history, and seems purpose built to be a home for the new collections when they arrive sometime in the next year or so, give or take. This week, another new development: the introduction of three apparent one-off versions of the classic Polerouter. As reported in Revolution and elsewhere, the release marks the 70th anniversary of the first SAS polar flight (for which the collection is named) and features a trio of meticulously recreated Polerouters. Unfortunately, these are not meant for the public at large – a stainless steel version with gilt accents and a gorgeous red gold edition with a black dial are both going straight to the UG archives. A white gold version with a blue dial and matching white gold bracelet is set to be auctioned next year at Phillips, with proceeds going toward Geneva’s CFP Arts school, which focuses on teaching students ...
Monochrome
In 2022, TAG Heuer introduced the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, the brand’s first-ever solar-powered quartz model. This debut followed the release of the revamped Aquaracer Professional 200 series, featuring 40mm steel cases. The Solargraph retained the aesthetic and functional hallmarks of the Aquaracer line, quickly winning over TAG Heuer enthusiasts. Since its launch, several Solargraph variants […]
Deployant
Alain Silberstein has done it again! This time, the quirky designer teamed up with the French based YEMA to launch a 500 pieces limited edition watch.
Monochrome
With Patrik Sjögren, the Master Watchmaker at the helm and Conny Persson, the Bladesmith producing the intricate hand-forged Damascus steel, the Swedish watchmaking brand GoS continues to amaze. Infusing Scandinavian folklore, nature themes and traditional crafts into their creations, GoS watches are distinguished by their intricate patterns and story-telling details. The new GoS timepiece is […]
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Quill & Pad
The Superbia Humanitatis Louis-Elysée Piguet/Franck Muller/Paul Gerber super complication is one of the most legendary watches of our time. And what a story! And here it is in its entirety: from 1892 when Piguet made the movement through 1992 when Franck Muller altered it, all the way through the present day when Paul Gerber modified it three more times to make it the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
Monochrome
Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]
Quill & Pad
Tim and Bart Gronefeld have quietly launch a new brand of more affordable watches than those in their Gronefeld collection. The new brand is called Grone Oldenzaal and the launch model is called the Manueel One ‘Sjef’s One’.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Important Candy Journalism Today is November 2, which means Halloween week has just come to a conclusion, which in turn means that the internet was full of stories about all manner of candy. It happens every year, and as the sugar fiends that we are, it’s always fun to see what colorful or chocolaty treats are dominating the public consciousness during candy’s big moment. Last week, a story in the New York Times about Nerds Gummy Clusters caught our eye. The candy is a viral sensation on social media, and is credited with reviving the Nerds brand. There was even a Super Bowl commercial for the uniquely crunchy gummy candy this year, and another is planned for 2025. It’s no wonder the Gummy Clusters have caught on – they are uniquely photogenic, and part of the fun of this article is the view into how they are made. Doesn’t it seem like a fun job to be in charge of making the Gummy Clusters? Also, Pizza Journalism While last week may have belonged to candy, pizza is always at front of mind for most of us. Also in the New York Times recently, this piece on the 25 best p...
Fratello
Last month, I met Lilian Thibault, the founder of Awake Watches, at an event in London. We’re used to the brand’s sporty, frequently space-themed limited editions. However, I saw an upcoming release that was very different. The new Sơn Mài collection brings two forms of Métiers d’Art together in an affordable package. Since its launch […] Visit Hands-On: The New Awake Sơn Mài Collection Makes Métiers d’Art Accessible To All to read the full article.
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Probably the best part of wearing and collecting GREAT watches is the fact that you do not need thousands of dollars to do so: Today, we’re looking at affordable icons all under $500 that you’ll actually wear and...
Worn & Wound
Over the course of two years, the Bel Canto has fundamentally changed the way many watch lovers view Christopher Ward. This has been discussed in depth here and elsewhere, and is without a doubt one of the biggest stories in the watch world in the last decade or so. It’s changed the brand itself in a meaningful way as well. To meet demand since the launch of the Bel Canto, Christopher Ward has increased production of the watch from 50 pieces per month to 500, and there’s still a months long wait. That means that we haven’t seen Christopher Ward operate from the usual playbook when a brand has a hit new release. There have been vanishingly few limited editions and collaborative versions of the Bel Canto, with the brand instead electing to concentrate on fulfilling a backlog of orders. That’s admirable, in my opinion, but it means we haven’t seen much in the way of refinements or updates to the core Bel Canto design. And that’s perfectly fine. The Bel Canto is still very much a new watch in the grand scheme of watch history, and certainly doesn’t need an update. Today, though, marks a new chapter in the short history of the Bel Canto with the launch of the new C1 Bel Canto Classic. This is the first serious adjustment to the look and feel of the Bel Canto since the watch debuted in the fall of 2022. The changes are (mostly) pretty subtle, but it offers a small glimpse of how the watch might continue to be refined in the future. The most obvious change in th...
Fratello
This week on Fratello Talks, we examine the Patek Philippe Cubitus. Nacho, Lex, and Daan join forces to discuss this hotly debated release from one of the world’s most prestigious watch brands. Initially leaked via a magazine ad, the watch did not receive the warmest welcome from watch enthusiasts. And despite journalists at the launch […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.
Monochrome
This was, by far, the most anticipated launch of the year, but also (and unsurprisingly) the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. In fact, I can’t recall witnessing such an amount of reactions from the watch community since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – which, for several reasons, shouldn’t […]
Monochrome
Tudor‘s connection with military forces is no secret anymore. The most famous of these partnerships is, without a doubt, the co-creation of specific dive watches for the French Marine Nationale, which resulted in some of the most appealing mil-spec models ever made by Tudor. Revived in 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD platform, […]
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis, the “Hyper Horology brand” (as it calls itself), has embraced a Middle Ages myth since 2013 with the launch of its Knights of the Round Table series, crafting several métier d’art pieces since. The first edition featured 12 intricately engraved micro-sculptures of the legendary knights, their swords drawn and pointing towards the centre. […]
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Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Vasque Hiking Brand, Shuttered Earlier this month came news that Vasque, the iconic maker of world class hiking boots, was shutting down for good. In an announcement from Red Wing, the brand’s parent company, it was explained that due to a changing market and shifting expectations from consumers, the brand just didn’t have a viable path forward. Many in the community, including Ben Bowers over at Gear Patrol, met the news with genuine disappointment. This is a brand that has meant a lot to many people over the years. For outdoor enthusiasts, boots are a lot like the watches we wear – they hold memories of important milestones, and are objects that are once utilitarian but also extremely personal. The news likely doesn’t come as a shock to many who follow the outdoor gear space. Vasque has been in a perilous position for some time, and had recently discussed a “reset” of the brand that would take several years. The Brutalist Gets a Trailer Since it hit the film festival circuit earlier this year, The Brutalist has perhaps the most discussed and least seen film of t...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Hamilton Murph is a watch with which I am very familiar, and a model that I have spent quite a bit of time with. In fact, I even wrote a story on this very site about my exploits for nearly two years with my personal Hamilton Khaki Murph 38. But this year, Hamilton went and surprised us all by delivering a watch nobody saw coming: The Murph 38 with a white dial. What makes this watch controversial? Well, everything - and I don't mean that pejoratively. The thing is, the OG Murph was, truly, a film prop – a movie watch that didn't actually exist within the brand's collection. It wasn’t until the fans demanded Hamilton make it real that that the watch was made manifest at its true 42mm size. And then, a couple years later, Hamilton heard the cries for a 38mm version and delivered. So you could say that the Murph has always been a watch in response to demand, first by director Christopher Nolan for the film Interstellar, and then by us, the watch nerds. The black dials, in either size were true to the movie Murph. It’s this new white dial that deviates... considerably. As a fan of the watch and the movie, I had to get the white Murph, and so I did. So this is an owner’s review from an owner who's had just over one month with the thing. My first sort of high-level observation is the idea that the Murph 38 White takes the collection into a new place. It was launched alongside another version with a black dial on bracelet, and both releases signify a shift...
Monochrome
Exactly 30 years ago, on 24 October 1994, at the Dresden Royal Palace, Günter Blümlein, Walter Lange and Hartmut Knothe unveiled the inaugural collection of the rejuvenated A. Lange & Söhne brand, consisting of the Saxonia, the Arkade, the Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” and, of course, the Lange 1. A watch that has been instrumental […]
Fratello
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
On episode 91 of A Week in Watches, Zach discusses some new releases from the last few weeks. First up is an awfully odd Nomos with a unique but unnecessary take on a date complication. Following is an overview of the newest Reversos from Jaeger-LeCoultre. A well-received launch from the historic house, it included four new styles, including a new case size. Lastly, Omega has launched the First Omega in Space for a second time, and we’re here for it. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair New York City. This year’s event has earned the title of the biggest watch fair in the world, with over 130 brands from 16 different countries. Windup NYC is happening Oct 18th – 20th at 415 Fifth avenue in the heart of Manhattan. It’s free and open to the public, as always, so we hope to see you there. For more information, head to windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 91: Omega Drops the First Speedy in Space, Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Most brands lose all momentum 1–2 weeks after launch.
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