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Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 17, 2023

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer

Why start a watch brand from the ground up if you inherently have a keen eye for defunct brands with a legitimate history and product design substance that present-day enthusiasts can easily get behind. It’s a playbook we’ve seen exercised occasionally within the past decade, but in recent years, it seems like a go-to strategy implemented by those with incredible foresight, time and time again. I hope you don’t mistake this as complaining. As much as I love seeing a brand release something completely new and refreshing, I am overjoyed by seeing bygone brands properly getting resurrected. It’s a phenomenon we’ve seen with the likes of Aquastar, Vulcain, and Wolbrook Now what do these brands have in common? Well for starters, they were all revived around the same time frame, beginning in 2019 (Wolbrook). Brand heritage, as well as name recognition seems to be another trait at their core. For Aquastar, you have their charming divers famously worn by Jacques Cousteau and his crew during countless expeditions in the 1960s. With Vulcain, how could we not think of the Cricket and its historical ties to the United States presidency. And as for Wolbrook, well, you have a brand history that has a connection to the dawn of the space race, hypersonic rocket-powered jet testing and the first man to ever step on the moon, Neil Alden Armstrong. Wolbrook’s latest release is the X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer and is a tribute to one of the watches that Armstrong wore during his stor...

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Fratello and Straum Collaborate on a Limited Edition with a Lava Red Dial Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2023

Fratello and Straum Collaborate on a Limited Edition with a Lava Red Dial

Fratello announced their latest limited edition last week, a collaboration with Straum, a Norwegian brand on the rise who made some noise a few years ago with the Opphav, a stainless steel integrated bracelet sports watch made for an affordable price with a dynamic textured dial. The new collaborative watch with Fratello is notable in that it appears to be a true collaboration, with Straum making rather significant changes to their design at Fratello’s request. This is somewhat rare in the world of collaborative watches, and in this case has resulted in a rather compelling edition with a fiery red dial and some key refinements made from the brand’s earlier watch.  The Fratello x Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition is named for a Norwegian island that the brand has tapped for inspiration when it comes to the striking red dial. Fratello describes it as “lava red” fumé, appropriate given Jan Mayen is home to the Beerenberg volcano. Ridges emanating from the dial’s center replicate flowing lava, and the effect is achieved via a stamping process followed by several steps of painting and surface finishing treatments. The dial text is minimal, just the brand’s logo and wordmark at 12:00, allowing the unique texture to truly take a starring role. There are several small details beyond the new dial design that differentiate the new LE from Straum’s earlier Opphav. First, the case size has been slightly reduced, from just shy of 41mm to 39mm. At the same time, the bezel...

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How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2023

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases

Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver Time+Tide
Montblanc goes overboard Apr 15, 2023

Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver

Montblanc adds a cool new grey dial variant to their chilled-out Iced Sea dive watch The unique dial texture is inspired by the Mer de Glace glacier of the Mont-Blanc massif range in the Alps Not merely a pretty face, the Iced Sea boasts ISO 6425 dive watch specs There are an ocean of dive … ContinuedThe post Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
IWC releases from Watches & Apr 14, 2023

Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023

Watch fans were eagerly awaiting Watches & Wonders, with over 40 brands presenting their new novelties at the fair. But, for one brand, there was exceptional anticipation – and that brand was IWC. In our watch-bubble, murmurs spread like wildfire that would be the year that IWC would revamp their beloved Ingenieur watch. Fortunately, IWC … ContinuedThe post Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection Time+Tide
Apr 14, 2023

Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection

Inspired by the world-famous Belvedere Palace in Vienna, Austria The Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere continues the brand’s aesthetic codes of contrasting directional lines The “Suchy Twist” is a new date display that changes position each day Watch enthusiasts are constantly stacking watches up against each other, drawing parallels in the design codes and dissecting … ContinuedThe post Carl Suchy & Söhne waltzes into the sports segment with new Belvedere collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside Worn & Wound
Tudor Opens Apr 13, 2023

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside

Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...

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Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph Worn & Wound
Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Apr 13, 2023

Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph

The wildly popular Timex Q collection welcomes a new, more complicated family this week with the introduction of the Q Three Time Zone Chronograph. The new watch brings a new level of practicality to the 40mm integrated frame with the addition of a 24 hour hand, a 12 hour bezel, and two adjustable hour hands. It might be called the Three Time Zone watch, but thanks to that 12 hour rotating bezel, you could actually track 5 if you really needed to. Timex is encouraging you to hit the open road with this watch, and it’s easy to see why, but we’ve still got a few questions about this one.  At a glance, this Timex Q looks to be a pretty straightforward GMT equipped chronograph, not an entirely uncommon function grouping for a quartz module. But the closer you look, the more odd details you’ll begin to notice. Is that second hour hand a GMT hand? If so, why is the bezel a 12 hour unit? There is no am/pm indication in sight, and Timex refers to that hand simply as the “2nd hour hand”. Closer still and you’ll notice that the 24 hour is actually located in the sub dial at 12 o’clock. This is an independently adjustable 24 hour hand that can be used to track home time, while the 1st and second hour hands can track local, and local adjacent (again, no am/pm indication) time zones against the circular hour markers, and a twist of the 12 hour bezel will even let you track an additional two. That’s 5 total by my count, though I’m not sure how practical doing so would...

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Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2023

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents

As watch collectors get more and more access to information through either the internet or brand transparency, the glowing sheen that once accompanied the term “in-house” has started to lose its shine. There are plenty of loopholes a company can go through to earn the in-house title, and because it’s not a protected term like … ContinuedThe post Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 13, 2023

Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph

The new Hermès H08 watches experiment with composite case materials Include exciting design features in a surprisingly smooth package We also get a preview of the Monopusher Chronograph model to be released in 2024 Creating a contemporary sports watch design that’s totally unique isn’t easy, especially when you want to keep it aesthetically accessible to … ContinuedThe post Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand Revolution
Simon Brette Apr 12, 2023

In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand

The name Simon Brette might be unfamiliar to most, but the 35-year-old watchmaker has spent a decade behind the scenes at some of the most creative independent watch companies in Switzerland. In 2021, he decided to start a business that is centered on independent artisans, with himself as the movement designer. The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription […]

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Isotope Collaborates with Freediver Johanna Nordblad on the New Hydrium Pro Nordblad Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Isotope Collaborates Apr 12, 2023

Isotope Collaborates with Freediver Johanna Nordblad on the New Hydrium Pro Nordblad Limited Edition

The latest watch in Isotope’s Hydrium dive watch series is a limited edition created in partnership with freediver Johanna Nordblad. Like all of the Hydrium limited editions, this one tells a very specific story through its design, particularly in its use of color, but this release feels a little different as it’s so closely tied to Nordblad herself. It also represents a new chapter in the Isotope line, and has been given the “Pro” moniker for the first time ever.  The Hydrium Pro Nordblad Limited Edition begins with the story of Johanna Nordblad. Nordblad took up scuba diving in her native Finland in 1997, and eventually transitioned to freediving, the sport that would become her true calling. She had a successful competitive freediving career for over a decade, breaking records in the process, but suffered a severe leg injury in 2010 that made diving impossible. She was on crutches for nearly a year, and suffered intense pain that was only alleviated by ice water treatment. It was during this time that Nordblad became interested in combining her love of freediving with cold water, and began practicing under ice. She has since accomplished several incredible diving feats in cold water situations, including swimming 103 meters under ice without fins and wearing only a bathing suit. This achievement set a record at the time, and was chronicled by Netflix in Hold Your Breath: The Ice Dive, an award winning documentary on Nordblad’s diving pursuits.  The new Hydri...

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The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race Time+Tide
Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Apr 12, 2023

The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race

Norqain is now the official timekeeper of the Zürich Marathon The Zürich Marathon is celebrating its 20th anniversary The 20 Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition watches feature a dial with a map of Zürich and the marathon track Norqain is a watch brand that refuses to sit still, and understandably so. Considering the brand … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Apr 11, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

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Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva Worn & Wound
Sinn T50s Apr 11, 2023

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva

The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...

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Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen Time+Tide
Rolex gifted Apr 11, 2023

Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen

Watch theft has unfortunately become a dark cloud over the watch world of late. There’s been a noticeable rise in these robberies in recent years and, due to rising concerns, it has definitely had an impact on how and where people wear their watches.  One such victim of this crime was Andy Richter – the … ContinuedThe post Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

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Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock

Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...

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The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2023

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now

Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant more hits from Chopard Apr 9, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed

Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 9, 2023

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999

When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster Time+Tide
Urwerk auctions Apr 9, 2023

Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster

Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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