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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers Sep 14, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch

This year marks Longines’ 190th anniversary and they’re celebrating with an exclusive timepiece from their top-of-the-range Master Collection. Since 2005 , the Master Collection has become Longines’ home for their more traditionally styled pieces that riff off a number of the brand’s classic designs from the middle part of the 20th century. These are high-end … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary delivers a classically handsome dress watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Sep 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary

While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Sep 12, 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream

A luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch is nothing new. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor – a luxury, integrated-bracelet sports watch that’s executed oh-so well, however, is damn near unique. Zach already waxed lyrical about the charms of the Parmigiani in his tour of NYC while sporting the rose-gold variant, but we couldn’t quite get enough. … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is clean, serene and wears like a dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 10, 2022

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton SJX Watches
Zodiac Sep 8, 2022

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton

Already a prolific maker of wristwatches with tiny, intricate automatons – with tropical birds and magic lotus being part of its repertoire – Jaquet Droz has turned to the realm of Middle Earth for its latest creation. Featuring an automaton with nine mechanical animations, the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton was designed by Canadian illustrator John Howe. When it comes to dragons and fantasy lands, Mr Howe’s credentials are impeccable. Amongst his past roles was one of the two chief designers of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. And aside from the Dragon Automaton, another of Mr Howe’s most recent works was designing The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power, the Amazon production that’s the most expensive television series in history. Initial thoughts Dragons are a common theme on watches, but usually of the East Asian kind and typically in the Year of the Dragon of the Chinese Zodiac – a simple reflection of where most demand for luxury watches originates. A dragon of the European fantasy genre is less common; in fact, I cannot recall another watch that depicts themes from the fantasy genre. This makes the Dragon Automaton unique, both figuratively and literally. The motif is usual and esoteric so its appeal will certainly be niche at best. This version has an onyx dial with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture set against a similarly engraved mountain backdrop – the aesthetic is entirely The Lord of the Rings But that is exactly the point, since each Dragon Automa...

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH013 means Sep 7, 2022

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production

Don’t get me wrong. The Evolution 9 case geometry has a stellar aesthetic. But when we first saw Grand Seiko’s innovative and beautiful 9SA5 hi-beat calibre in a case other than the Evolution 9 case, the classic and iconic 44GS case it was found in for their limited edition SLGH009, I immediately knew I wanted … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This is the identity of the average Rolex owner (they’re not who you might expect)ww Time+Tide
Rolex owner they’re not who Sep 6, 2022

This is the identity of the average Rolex owner (they’re not who you might expect)ww

Off the top of your head, what’s your mental picture of a Rolex owner? Some cigar-chomping big-shot in an oak-panelled office? A thrusting young professional who delights in his watch as a conspicuous status-signifier? Or simply a lover of fine watches who appreciates the formidable consistency and build quality of the Crown? The reason I … ContinuedThe post This is the identity of the average Rolex owner (they’re not who you might expect)ww appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch Time+Tide
Sep 5, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch

For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 5, 2022

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...