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What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

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From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One Jun 20, 2023

From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen

A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making.  The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...

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Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New Jun 19, 2023

Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection

The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term.  Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...

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IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Hamilton recently so Jun 19, 2023

IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” edition of their ceramic cased chronograph has been an object of fascination for many since its release last year. While it lacks a certain practicality (it’s 44.5mm wide) and versatility (it’s, well, bright white) it’s undeniably striking, and would seem to be the perfect watch for a handful of very specific purposes, one of which is surely sipping on brightly colored cocktail, oceanside, in Miami. There’s nothing else quite like it on the market (besides the other colored, ceramic IWC chronographs), and it presents as an interesting contrast in design sensibilities to the “normal” IWC chronographs, the ones in steel, with an altogether more sober vibe. They’re the same, but also wildly different, and illustrate how IWC has one foot in contemporary sleekness and another in paying homage to their own history, visible on the same chronograph platform.  Last week, the Tahoe got a sequel of sorts with a new Big Pilot perpetual calendar using the same materials and design notes as the chronograph. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe had been seen on the wrist of IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton recently, so the official news of its release to the public isn’t a huge shock, but as an admirer of the Tahoe chronograph it’s fun to see its expansion to another product line, and makes us wonder if we could see a Tahoe edition of the simplest IWC pilot watches. A Mark XX Tahoe? Take my money.  That’s enough...

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Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 19, 2023

Bell & Ross Introduces a Sky Blue Version of their BR 05 GMT

Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve.  This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...

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H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference – Reprise Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Jun 18, 2023

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Aqua Blue: Refining Perfection Results in a Refining of Preference – Reprise

Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.

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Highlights from Christie’s Art of F.P. Journe Auction: 3 Watches Sold for Over a Million Dollars! Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Auction 3 Watches Sold Jun 17, 2023

Highlights from Christie’s Art of F.P. Journe Auction: 3 Watches Sold for Over a Million Dollars!

F.P. Journe watches have attracted the attention of the collector community in recent years. Some amazing results have been achieved at auction, including the spectacular FFC Blue Only Watch 2021, which sold at Christie’s for a staggering CHF 4,500,000. Seven-figure sums at auction are nothing unusual for F.P. Journe, but the consistently high results are a sure sign that the brand has taken the lead among independents in the secondary watch market.

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How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2023

How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare

War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch.  Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX Time+Tide
IWC celebrates 75 years Jun 17, 2023

IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX

There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The 18 Best Watches Under $100 Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 16, 2023

The 18 Best Watches Under $100

When it comes to watches and their price-to-value ratio, how low can you go to still acquire a watch that's reliable, functional, good-looking, and perhaps even a conversation piece? A while back, we found 15 such timepieces under $200. In this article, we lower the cost bar even further, to spotlight watches that will run you under a C-note before taxes. As you'd expect, most (but surprisingly not all) are quartz-driven, and we've divvied them up by brand (for clarity, Casio and its popular G-Shock sub-brand are separate entities), between the very few watchmakers that excel at making watches in this affordable niche. Scroll down for our compilation of the best watches under $100. CASIO Casio F91W Digital Sport Watch Price: $22.95, Case Size: 38.2mm x 35.2mm, Case Height: 8.5mm, Crystal: Resin glass, Water Resistance: Water resistant, Movement: Solar Quartz Digital Sort of a proto-G-Shock, Casio’s ubiquitous F91W speaks to legions of fans with its rectangular resin case, multifunctional digital display face, and ribbed, waterproof resin strap. The watch’s three buttons operate a 1/1000-second digital chronograph with split times, alarms and time signals, and auto calendar functions, along with an illuminating night light. Pressing the button on the right side of the lightweight case for five seconds brings up the model’s anti-counterfeit “Easter Egg:” the name “CASI0” briefly appearing on the screen in digital text. Casio AE1200 Worldtimer Price: $29.95, Cas...

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Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE257 Three years ago Jun 16, 2023

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down.  From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time.  As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase.  You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX/20 event Hey Jun 16, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event

Hey folks! Back in the Friday Wind Down saddle. I would have loved to share my experience during the Paris Breguet trip last week, but alas I was in transit to Geneva and could not punch it out in time. But, back in New York City, I wanted to give you a peek into what … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A belated recap of the Parisian Breguet Type XX/20 event appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! Time+Tide
Hamilton was caught wearing? Well Jun 15, 2023

Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now!

Lewis Hamilton was photographed wearing an unreleased white IWC watch at F1 Miami in May IWC today releases the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe  It will be available at the beginning of July 2023 While I may be the New York City kid who has yet to get his driver’s … ContinuedThe post Remember that unreleased IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lake Tahoe Lewis Hamilton was caught wearing? Well, it’s out now! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

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G-SHOCK Celebrates the 4th of July with their Latest Special Edition Worn & Wound
Casio paying homage Jun 14, 2023

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 4th of July with their Latest Special Edition

With Memorial Day out of the way, most Americans are looking towards the Fourth of July as the next big Summer holiday. Whether you’re heading out for a long weekend or staying at home for a picnic with family, I’m sure you’ll be decked out in red, white, and blue. If you’re looking for an accessory that’s holiday appropriate and a little fun, the new watch from G-SHOCK should be on your radar. The Japanese brand has recently released a tribute to Independence Day with their latest addition to the 5600 line-up with the DW5600US23-7 model. Or, if that’s a mouthful, we’ll just call it the Fourth of July G-SHOCK. For nearly four decades, the 5600 has been synonymous with the G-SHOCK brand. With its iconic rectangular resin design and charmingly retro digital interface, it’s a beloved piece of watch culture that speaks to the heyday of the digital watches of the 1980s. With the release of the Fourth of July model, we see Casio paying homage to the country that played a massive role in making G-SHOCK a worldwide name. The watch itself has minimal updates to the overall function and structure of the 5600 platform and is more a revamp of colorways that puts the star-spangled banner to the forefront of the design. The band features both stars and stripes while the back has an eagle etched onto the stainless steel case. Even the backlit image of this G-SHOCK model features a hidden American flag on the LED screen. In terms of features, it’s a variety of the classi...

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Opinion: Gifting Metal Worn & Wound
Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

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24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2023

24 Perpetual Calendar Watches from The World's Leading Luxury Watchmak

The most sophisticated type of calendar watch, a perpetual calendar is endowed with a mechanical “memory” that enables it to record and display the time, day, date, month, and often the moon-phase, accurately for many years. The complex movement in a perpetual calendar compensates for the length of every month, including February in both leap years and non-leap-years, meaning that it should not need adjusting until the year 2100, which is the next annum in which the Gregorian calendar’s leap-year cycle is disrupted (it will be the first year since 1900 that is exactly divisible by 100 but not by 400, and thus not a leap year). As you'd expect, perpetual calendar watches (called "quantième perpétuel" in French) are extremely complicated in their mechanics and design, representing one of the highest pinnacles of high horology and priced accordingly. Throughout the modern wristwatch industry, only a relative handful of brands have mastered the art of the perpetual calendar: we showcase some of them, and their most impressive perpetual calendar timepieces, here.  A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Introduced in 2021, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar adopts the new approach taken to perpetual calendar design that the Saxon maison established in 2012 with the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar. In typical Lange fashion, the technical approach taken is complex in the service of user-friendly practicality. Its in-house, self-winding movement, Caliber L021.3, ...

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[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 14, 2023

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Review

The vintage-inspired GMT watch is now available in a new 39mm size, in four distinct colorways including one steel-and-gold version. If you’re like many people who’ve seen the Longines Spirit Zulu Time watch since its initial launch in 2022, you’ve probably found yourself intrigued with its clean, legible dial, sleek-looking bezel, and meticulously finished case, even if you realized afterward that you really weren’t sure what “Zulu Time” was. Good news: we’re here to explain everything you might want to know about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Even more good news: if you liked the first crop of watches but found them too large for your taste, Longines is now supplementing the original 42mm offerings with new 39mm versions.   First, some background. As those with a background in either the armed forces or aviation (or both) likely know, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for the letter “Z” (like “Alpha” for A, “Tango” for T, etc.) and the letter “Z” is used in military jargon to denote time based on the prime meridian in Greenwich, England, the longitudinal line that separates the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. Essentially, Zulu Time means the same thing as GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) or the more modern term, UTC (Universal Time Coordinated, albeit expressed in a more historically adventurous idiom, and a watch that displayed the time in this manner was particularly useful for early aviators before the rise of electronic guid...

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HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 Jun 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42

The Longines Spirit lineup has become a go-to collection to recommend when someone asks what a great option would be for an entry-level Swiss luxury watch. The collection, now three years into its current generation, has seen quite rapid growth with a variety of aesthetic and functional configurations. Born initially in 2020 with 40mm and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Our favourite Nomos watches of all time Time+Tide
Nomos watches Jun 14, 2023

Our favourite Nomos watches of all time

Considering that Nomos only released their first watches a little over 30 years ago, they have made a considerably strong impact on the watch world. While perfecting a style of minimalism that’s deliberate rather than lazy, the Bauhaus inspiration and high-end German manufacturing have helped their reputation soar among both large collectors and casual enthusiasts. … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Nomos watches of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Jun 13, 2023

The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button

The Seiko 5 Sports collection has made quite the impressive and industry-impacting run in its 55 years of existence. Within that time, we’ve seen a constant evolution of the collection with countless iterations of the Seiko 5 Sports watch. There has been a slew of limited edition pieces and special collaborations that displays the brand’s willingness to do something fun and different. There have been many “firsts” for the collection, as well as many returns to form. But no matter how much the collection has ebbed and flowed, the Seiko 5 Sports watch has a knack for finding its way into all of our collections. Whether you’re a veteran in the horology game or a rookie just getting started, a common thread will always be a Seiko 5. The collection continues to open many doors into the hobby, and for some, has kept them right in the thick of it with easy-going designs and models packed with tons of value. Today however, isn’t about the journey, but about where it all began in 1968 with the first ever Seiko 5 Sports watch. With this nostalgic release from Seiko, we get a faithful recreation of the OG diver built on the five pillar foundation from which the Seiko 5 gets its name – a sports watch containing an automatic movement, day-date display, water resistance, durable case and a recessed crown at four o’clock. The limited edition Seiko SRPK17 retains its 39.5mm steel cushion case with its distinguishable scalloped edge shaping the top and bottom. With a front-...

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