Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph Holstein Edition 2020
The full bronze option.
Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out….
See how the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel fares next to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711.The post Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A New Age of Enlightenment – The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One
For 2020, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One continues its evolution in red gold and black plasma ceramic
Time+Tide
Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four…
It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only … ContinuedThe post Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: Remembering The Zenith El Primero Retrotimer
If you use your watch in the kitchen, you’re not going to want to miss this story.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary “62MAS” and “6105”
Seiko is marking the 55th anniversary of its first diver’s watch with remakes – yet again. The Prospex 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 modelled on the 62MAS 6217, while the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183 takes its cues from the 6105-8110. Initial thoughts Seiko is certainly not short on diver’s watches: it introduced the 55th anniversary trilogy in March, as well as a green-dial LX diver a few months later. This pair feels like two watches too many, especially since they aren’t that different from watches launched before. 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183J1 (left), and 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043J1 It’s a given that both possess all of the intrinsic appeal of Seiko dive watches – solid construction, excellent case finishing, and a robust movement. The two watches also enjoy strong historical legitimacy given Seiko’s immense track record in dive watches. But not only does there seem to be too many Seiko limited editions, both are not quite as afforably priced as Seiko dive watches once were. They are still reasonably priced, but no longer as compelling. 62MAS The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 is a remake of the first-ever Seiko dive watch, the 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Like earlier 62MAS remakes, this is larger than the original at 39.9 mm in diameter. Notably, it is slimmer than the remake from the diver’s watch trilogy launched earlier in the year, because this is powered by the 8L35 running at 4 H...
Deployant
In Memoriam: Günter Blümlein – the legend is remembered
October 1 marks the anniversary of the passing of the watch industry's greatest personalities. On this day in 2001, he passed away after a short illness, and the watchmaking world mourned the passing of a giant. Our Special Correspondent, Dr. Frank Muller remembers his mentor.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177
A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...
Revolution
The Allure of the Rado True Square Open Heart
Revolution takes a dive into the heart of the Rado True Square Open Heart
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 05 Blue Gold and a recap of the collection’s story so far…
Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 in 2019, and made waves in the genre of the luxury steel sports watch as the most affordable. Today, we see the introduction of the latest member to the family - the BR05 Blue Gold.
Time+Tide
Watches inspired by the 1920s - 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist
The roaring Twenties were a decade of epic proportions, lavish beyond measure. These were some of the best watches of the 1920s.The post Watches inspired by the 1920s - 5 watch designs from the ’20s that still roar from the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Mean Green Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
Blancpain announces two Bathyscaphe watches, one particularly with the tropical green dial was a hit with the earlier Bathyscaphe Mokarran limited edition
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Day Date Desert Edition
A new sandy-colored dial honoring a historic dive in one of the world's hottest places.
Revolution
By Royal Appointment: The Tudor Royal
Tudor launches the Tudor Royal, a watch that’s deeply rooted in the Wilsdorf household and one which seems to be turning a lot of heads.
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater
English artist Alice Shirley has been creating illustrations for Hermès to reproduce on its scarves since 2012. Typically imaginative motifs of flora and fauna, two of Ms Shirley’s illustrations have made their way onto Hermès wristwatches. And now the Parisian leatherwoods maker has just revealed the third, and most impressive, instalment of this crossover – the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. A pocket watch boasting a minute repeater and tourbillon, the Aaaaargh! is decorated in leather mosaic and marquetry – and a very large eyeball in grand feu enamel. It’s named after the sound a Tyrannosaurus rex presumably made, and continues the phonetic naming conventions of Ms Shirley’s earlier watches, which were the Slim Hermès Grrrrr! with a bear motif and the Arceau Awooooo featuring a howling wolf. Initial thoughts Unlike the previous two Alice Shirley watches that were time-only, the Tyrannosaurus is a pocket watch – unusual in itself – and also combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. In addition to the complicated mechanics, the motif is executed more elaborately than on the earlier watches, which admittedly were substantially more affordable, most notably with the three-dimensional enamel eye and intricate leather inlays. The result is an intriguing, fun, and imaginative watch that is very much in keeping with Hermès’ quirky, elegant, and expensive house style. Compared to the typically safe and practical high-end complication, the Arceau...
Revolution
Introducing the Panerai Luminor GMT ION Special Edition – 44mm (PAM01177)
Panerai announces the reopening of its refreshed ION Orchard flagship boutique with the 100-piece Panerai Luminor GMT ION Special Edition – 44mm (PAM01177)
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz
The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies category for watches entered as “comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve, and/or classic moon phase. These timepieces may be adorned with a maximum of eight carats’ worth of gemstones.” While our panelists aren't quite unanimous, we do have a clear favorite as a winner here. Read on to find out why.
Time+Tide
5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta
This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Introducing the new Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge Ref. 5345 with insider commentary
Tourbillon Quai de l'Horloge Ref. 5345. Here is the release information, including prices and our insider commentary. The new Classique Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge Reference 5345 retails for CHF 628,000 inclusive of Swiss taxes. Press Release with Commentary.
Revolution
Introducing the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de L’horloge
Breguet reincarnates the legendary double tourbillon Calibre 588 with a new timepiece that showcases all of its intricacies in plain sight.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge
Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...
Time+Tide
Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen
Well, it’s taken six years, but today a dream comes true. I am thrilled beyond measure to announce that former GQ Australia Editor, and recent Geneva Watch Days collaborator, Mike Christensen is joining the team as European Editor – Time+Tide is coming to London! The London-based role vanquishes the tyranny of distance and sees Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey: The World’s Most Versatile Ladies’ Watch, And One Of The Prettiest
The flexibility of the beautiful Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey makes it very appealing because in each configuration, the watches can be appreciated in a different way. The patented Amadéo case allows the watch to be used as a pendant, pocket, or wristwatch. And even as a small table clock! And those dials! And those beads! A must see.
Time+Tide
Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection
For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Richard Mille RM 72-01 'Lifestyle' Flyback Chronograph
The newest flyback chronograph from Richard Mille uses the company's first completely in-house movement.
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920
Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...
Deployant
Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R The Patek Philippe Calatrava is many things: elegant, dainty, simple, dressy, thin. One thing it is not, is exhibitionist – well, at least not until the Ref. 5180 came along. First available in white gold, Patek Philippe’s openworked wonder was, to say the least, polarising. But that didn’t stop theRead More
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver
Omega’s lines between utility and luxury are ever-blurring, and increasingly confusing to people who like to categorise watches into strict genres and tropes. The truth is, the centuries-old Swiss powerhouse is constantly proving that you can have high-performance, high-specification and high-flex wristwatches without spending anywhere near as much as the competition. More to the point: … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial
I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic
A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.