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Every Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II: Pepsi, Coke, Batman, Batgirl, Sprite, Root Beer, Polar.
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
40 mm × 11.85 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 3285
Fratello
This was the first time I had ever seen one of Qian GuoBiao’s watches in real life. I’d never seen one at watch shows, quickly behind glass, or even in a passing moment at a collector event. I’ve long admired Master Qian’s watches through my laptop screen, but this encounter with his Split-Seconds Chronograph was […] Visit Hands-On With Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Simple solutions to complex problems could well be Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s overriding philosophy. Former curator of the Musée international d’horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Oechslin studied archaeology as an undergraduate and obtained a PhD in Philosophy – with a scholarship to study theoretical physics and astronomy – and became a Swiss master watchmaker in 1983. Bringing […]
Fratello
A few hours from now, when a Rolex clock strikes 1:40 PM GMT-5, we’ll hear the roar of engines on Daytona International Speedway - a polyphonic roar made up of 60 engines across four categories. We’ll hear the raw howl of the GTD and GTD Pro categories, familiar supercar sounds. Bee-like, buzzing overtones, emanating from […] Visit The Rolex 24 At Daytona Endurance Race Returns Today - With Rolex Daytonas Awaiting The Winners to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The new limited-edition G-SHOCK MRG-B2000KT pays tribute to the ancient craft of Japanese swordmaking with the help of a master metalsmith.
Monochrome
Independent Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the best in his field. Working from his atelier in Motiers, which he founded in 2002, Voutilainen is known for his high-end watches with in-house movements and hand-guilloché dials. His latest watch, the 216TMZ Worldtime, features a movement with a direct-impulse double escapement, first […]
SJX Watches
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 is one of the most unconventional perpetual calendars on the market, combining the brand’s military-inspired emphasis on legibility and robustness with a high-spec, crown-operated perpetual calendar movement designed for daily wear. Housed in a hard-wearing 44 mm Platinumtech case and powered by the P.4100 calibre, the PAM01575 challenges expectations for what a Panerai can be, applying the brand’s utilitarian DNA to one of watchmaking’s most respected complications. A user-friendly perpetual calendar Panerai is a brand rooted in its identity as a supplier of watches and dive instruments to the Italian navy. The brand’s utilitarian aesthetic, with bold dial markings and a distinctive crown guard, earned it a cult following in the early 2000s, and while some of the enthusiasm of that era has waned, the designs remain as recognisable as ever. Military watches are usually designed to be legible and robust, user-friendly traits that make them appealing to civilians. User-friendliness is something of a complication in its own right, and in some ways is one of the final frontiers of movement design. This includes both legibility, and the priority of information on the dial, and functionality, ensuring that the movement is easy to operate and resilient against mishandling. These issues are especially present when it comes to perpetual calendars, which must present a lot of information; George Daniels famousl...
Teddy Baldassarre
When the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with picking some of our favorite complicated watches of 2025, there was an important distinction that had to be drawn. Of course, this was the fine line between our favorite watches that absolutely nail or master a specific complication rather than just the“most complicated” watches or watches with the most complications. This year we saw one of the best world timers for the money, a novel take on the moon-phase, and Audemars Piguet’s final Research & Development watch. So without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite complicated watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Power Reserve 40mm"] Sometimes we overlook the power reserve indicator as a complication in a watch - but indeed it is and Hamilton outfitted one of its most popular watches with a power reserve indicator on the dial thus setting the new Khaki Field Power Reserve to take its place among our favorite complicates watches of 2025. You will recognize this watch for bearing so many of the hallmarks of the Khaki Field Mechanical but with the added gas-tank indicator style gauge at the nine o’clock portion of the dial. It’s 40mm in diameter and a touch under 12mm in case height and boasts a new movement under the hood by way of the H23 manual winding caliber with 80 hours of power reserve and a slipping spring that allows for winding to exceed the manual maximum in a “quirk” that also serves to aid the watch...
Worn & Wound
Travel watches have been on the absolute rise in recent years. Where dive watches were once the default option for a first sports watch, GMTs, dual times, and world timers have been making a credible play for wrist time with enthusiasts of all strata. There are practical reasons for this - movements like the Miyota 9075 and Seiko NH34 have made including a GMT complication in a watch more affordable than ever - but I think practical reasons only scratch the surface of this precipitous rise. To tell the whole story, you have to look for the romantic. There’s an inherent appeal in travel watches. They’re optimistic and remind us to stay interested in the world even when we’re stuck at home, or work, or in the myopia of day-to-day life, when the little things around us stop us from looking further. I think this appeal was only reinforced by a mandatory two-year stay inside, at home, and I don’t think it’s by chance that our collective release back into the world post-COVID coincided with the rise of the travel watch. I mean, sure, in a world where our phones automatically adjust to new time zones, and most people’s preferred travel watch is an Apple Watch, mechanical travel watches (or, really, analog - there are some pretty stellar quartz offerings to be had, you don’t need to look further than the Timex Q Continental GMT for evidence of that) may be more talismanic than necessary, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. So, with all that ...
Fratello
I’m in the market for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch. My search begins with a set budget of between €4,000 and €5,000 and a list of must-have features, including a GMT function, a depth rating of at least 100 meters, and an automatic movement. Apart from a measurable amount of money and spec list, there are […] Visit I Ask AI To Find Me A New Watch: Will It Be The Same Watch I Picked Myself? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Charlie Paris has been making watches in the French capital city since 2014, and the latest Initial collection doesn’t disappoint. Previous pieces like the Concordia GMT Automatic and blacked out Concordia Automatic Kraken show a real eye for design with style and features that are always popular. Best of all, the collections are affordable with […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue the series highlighting our favorite watches of 2025. It’s time for our favorite chronographs. Whereas last week’s list of GMT watches wasn’t easy to compile due to a lack of spectacular options, we were not left wanting this week. If anything, 2025 has given us an abundance […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chronograph Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Zenith, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...
Monochrome
Regarded as one of the grails in watchmaking, and an extremely challenging one to master as well, the Perpetual Calendar is a complication that always grabs headlines, it seems. This year, we’ve seen an abundance of them, from seasoned Maisons to high-end indies, and everything in between. With so much to choose from, pinpointing the […]
Fratello
In 2020, Wempe presented the Iron Walker family of watches. The retailer’s in-house brand, Wempe Glashütte, manufactures these watches to expand Wempe’s offerings in the popular class of steel watches featuring a sporty design with an integrated bracelet. The Iron Walker family comprises slightly sporty (Automatic and GMT), sportier (Chronograph), and fully sporty (Diver) watches. […] Visit Hands-On With Wempe’s Iron Walker Diver Bronze to read the full article.
Monochrome
One of the rising stars of independent watchmaking, Felipe Pikullik’s career began in Glashütte, where he worked with renowned watchmakers, including Kudoke and Rolf Lang. In 2017, at the age of 23, he launched his own brand in Berlin. Since then, Felipe Pikullik has been widely recognised as a master of decoration, elevating venerable Unitas […]
Monochrome
Attaining iconic status in the world of watchmaking is no easy feat. This, however, is what Bulgari has achieved in just ten years, with the bold contemporary Italian design and sophisticated Swiss mechanics of the Octo Finissimo lineup. Its impressive lineup turned the Roman Maison into a master of ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, as the brand has […]
Monochrome
The collaboration between the indie brand Louis Erard and the master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin has already given birth to several limited-edition watches based on the Time Eater concept – such as this tourbillon with regulator display. As Dubai Watch Week 2025 open its doors tomorrow, we get a different concept, yet still inspired by Chaykin’s […]
Fratello
On this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and RJ sit down with Claude Greisler, co-founder and master watchmaker at Armin Strom. Together, they explore Claude’s journey from a young apprentice to leading one of Switzerland’s most technically inventive independent brands. The trio discusses how Armin Strom evolved from a workshop known for skeletonization to […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom to read the full article.
Monochrome
At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]
Monochrome
Launched in 2021, the Tonda PF collection fulfilled two needs with one deed. On the one hand, it celebrated Parmigiani Fleurier’s 25th anniversary and the illustrious career of master watchmaker and founder Michel Parmigiani; on the other, it marked a trial by fire for the new collection, overseen by the newly appointed CEO, Guido Terreni. […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among all of Rolex’s bracelet options, the Oysterflex is perhaps the most unconventional and arguably the most misunderstood. Now marking 10 years on the market, and encompassing attributes of both a sturdy steel bracelet and a supple rubber strap, the Oysterflex has gone from being a curious, one-off outlier on a niche Yacht-Master model to an integral element of some of the Crown’s most buzz-worthy timepieces of recent years. Here’s what you should know about it. History of Rubber Watch Straps The road to the Rolex Oysterflex bracelet really started with the invention of vulcanized rubber in 1839, attributed to chemist Charles Goodyear (below, whose name is now immortalized in the automotive world as a leading manufacturer of tires). Vulcanized rubber - a compound of natural rubber with other compounds, which offered enhanced resilience and pliability - was originally used in mostly industrial areas, as in the manufacture of o-rings, gaskets, and (of course) tires. The discovery of fluoroelastomers as an alternative to the difficult-to-source natural rubber led to the rise of synthetic rubbers that had even more advantages, such as resistance to water, oils, and temperature extremes. These rubbers found their way into more everyday products such as shoes, belts, and flooring, while also expanding further into applications in the automotive industry, for door seals, hoses, and other parts. Synthetic rubber first emerged as an alternative for wristwatch straps in...
Monochrome
Founded by master watchmaker Gerd R. Lang (1943-2023) in 1983, Chronoswiss rowed against the tide of quartz to become a key player in the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking. Renowned for exceptional craftsmanship and a penchant for regulator displays, Lang’s brand released the Opus chronograph in 1995, the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph, revealing […]
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer pushes the boundaries of modern sport-luxury with the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Twin-Time. A bold fusion of technical design, dual-time functionality, and everyday wearability, it’s the Carrera reimagined for a new generation. Lightweight, futuristic, and full of attitude, this is modern TAG Heuer at its best! What We Love The futuristic take on the Carrera has never looked better: the skeletonised dial is visually stunning and full of depth. The GMT functionality adds genuine, real-world practicality to the timepiece. Wrist presence is undeniable. It’s a watch you can’t take your eyes off, offering excellent value for money. What We Don’t The case thickness remains on the larger side; even with the added function, it could be refined further. It would’ve been great to see the winding rotor colour-matched to the dial, perhaps in the same teal green. The hour and minute hands can occasionally get lost within the skeletonised dial during certain lighting conditions. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport in late 2024 as a bold new evolution of the Carrera line, sharing much of the collection’s DNA while having a “futuristic” aesthetic look. The Chronograph Extreme Sport collection brings together the brand’s racing heritage with now a more refined, sharper, and aggressive look, all the while using new cutting-edge materia...
Fratello
Well, well, well, Seiko is on a nice roll! Last week, we covered the new limited-edition Prospex GMT Seashadow, and it garnered the type of enthusiasm we used to see with all Seiko releases. Additionally, the limited edition of watches has already sold out. Today, it seems that we have another mega hit in the […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The 2025 Carrera Extreme Sport collection sees TAG Heuer introduce chronograph, GMT, and tourbillon novelties.The post TAG Heuer tributes 75 years of Formula 1 with a triple Carrera Extreme threat appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier, the elite watch brand founded by master restorer and watchmaker Michel Parmigiani in 1996, underwent a management change in 2021 with the appointment of Guido Terreni. Terreni’s roadmap for Parmigiani involved streamlining the collections and focusing on a new collection derived from Michel Parmigiani’s Tonda watch. Released that same year, the Tonda PF is a lineup […]
Fratello
Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.
Monochrome
Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the greatest independent watchmakers on the scene today. Working from his atelier in Môtiers, Switzerland, the Finnish master watchmaker produces some of the most coveted complications, drawing collectors from near and far to admire his minute repeaters, tourbillons and other in-house delicacies. The latest marvel to emerge from […]
Worn & Wound
The Aquascaphe has been a staple in Baltic’s lineup since 2018, when they introduced their first vintage inspired diver to quite a bit of fanfare. This was still the early days of the vintage inspired, microbrand boom, and Baltic had a front row seat to the incredible growth in the enthusiast watch community that would occur over the next several years. There have been a variety of Aquascaphes released in the interim (a variety of dial configurations, a GMT version, a titanium release, and so forth) but the new watch announced today is specifically being pitched as a “MK 2” release, or a new generation for the venerable vintage inspired diver. Iterating, much less innovating, on a watch like this is tricky business. The whole premise of vintage inspired designs is that they kind of got things right 50-70 years ago. But Baltic, as always, has made a handful of subtle updates that move the lineup forward in predictable but satisfying ways. The headline here is that all four dial variants (the colors are Blue, Green, Warm Silver and Grey) that are part of this release will be available in two case sizes, 39.5mm and 37mm. This is really smart on Baltic’s part. The original Aquascaphe released all those years ago came in at 39mm, so here we have one in essentially the same size, along with one that’s a little smaller and playing into the current trend of true vintage inspired case sizes. You can see the difference in case sizes in our photos – the green is 37mm an...
Worn & Wound
As the world of dive watches continues to grow, it’s easy to get stylistically complacent. We see similar colors, dial and case design, and construction techniques. So when a dive watch comes along that looks out of the norm, it’s an exciting prospect. Cue the Papar Cenote, a first in the dive category for the upstart brand. Like their first watch, the Anillo GMT, the Cenote is an aesthetic break from the norm that challenges the conventions of the diver category. As a reflection of the brand and its founder Josh Blank’s roots in both the US and Mexico, The Cenote draws visual inspiration and its nomenclature from the cenotes of Mexico’s Yucatán. The octagonal titanium case features sharp angles and a 40mm diameter, and measures in at 47mm lug-to-lug with a 10.9mm thickness. A ceramic bezel insert offers functionality, and a sailcloth strap with a matching titanium buckle adds a final touch of cohesiveness to the design. The dial, though, holds the Cenote’s coolest feature. The indices appear as cutouts, a crescent moon with end tips pointing up marks the 12 o’clock position, and the hour and minute hands are sharp triangles. The wow factor is more than just cool design, though: the indices change color over the course of the month, giving the Cenote a continuously dynamic appearance. Two colorways are available for the Cenote, in a limited run of 100 watches. The first option, Rose Gold Titanium, features a starkly appealing combo of rose gold PVD coating...
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