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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial Worn & Wound
Omega due Jun 6, 2024

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial

Jacques Bianchi Marseille has teamed up with Fratello Watches to create a new iteration of their already popular JB200 PoulPro. The new variant released today is now dubbed the JB200 PoulPro “Night Diver”, due to its new nocturnal layout consisting of a black PVD case and a fully lumed dial, both features being a first for Jacques Bianchi.  Fratello is known for creating high quality and entertaining watch enthusiast content, and more specifically their infatuation with the Speedmaster that started with their founders creation of the #speedytuesday hashtag. Fratello has even collaborated with Omega due to the hashtag’s marketing success, and they’ve since branched out to create watch collaborations with many other watch brands just like this new Jacques Bianchi release. The JB200 diver was only just reissued in 2021, and it garnered some outstanding success due to demand from vintage watch lovers who were quite fond of the original from the early 1980s. The new “Night Diver” variant seen here is similar in many ways to the reissue, maintaining the 42mm case and 13.3mm thickness, as well as a lug to lug of 47mm.  The JB200 is relatively well proportioned on the wrist, although it does have a slightly heftier appearance when comparing to the benchmark Rolex Submariner 124060 with a 12mm thickness. Much of the fit disadvantage is offset by the rest of the specs, especially the lug to lug measurement which can at times be more important than the actual case size....

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First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Unveils May 29, 2024

First Look – Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Erard pursues its mission of delivering traditional handmade decorative techniques at accessible prices. Usually the preserve of top-tier brands, dials decorated with métiers d’art techniques like guilloché or enamel command hefty prices. Luckily, Louis Erard thinks differently and is determined to offer its appreciative public original watches with beautifully executed dials that won’t break the […]

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Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential Teddy Baldassarre
Timex May 16, 2024

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential

For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory  From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...

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A Quick Look at the Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92 Worn & Wound
May 2, 2024

A Quick Look at the Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92

Watch collaborations are most successful when the result is greater than the sum of its parts. We’d like to believe The Depancel x Worn & Wound Valjoux 92 is one such example. Borne out of a desire to add a distinctly American flair to a classic chronograph format, the new Allure Valjoux 92 is both aesthetically and mechanically significant. The unique mint green dial conjures classic American automobiles – think Mustangs and Corvettes – and even shares the cars’ metallic paint finish. We’ve also elected to further simplify the dial by removing the running seconds sub-dial, which results in a single-eye chronograph. Speaking of chronographs, the watch’s namesake movement utilizes what is known as an oscillating pinion. To this day, the oscillating pinion remains the most efficient and simple horizontal clutch for engaging the stopwatch function, making the caliber Valjoux 92 a special movement for collectors and chronograph enthusiasts. The Allure is paired with a quality leather strap with matching green stitching, rounding out an attractive and interesting collaboration that would not be possible elsewhere. This Depancel x Worn & Wound special edition is priced at $3,900 and is limited to 20 pieces worldwide. Please reach out to us directly at sales@windupwatchshop.com for inquiries and purchasing details. The watch will also be on display and available at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco from May 3rd to May 5th. For more information on the event, please visi...

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Worn & Wound
Mar 22, 2024

60 Megapixel Madness: Sony vs. Leica

Do you need a 60-megapixel camera? Certainly not, yet they are out there and more available than ever before. With a high megapixel count comes a world of cropping possibilities, opening up the way you shoot. But, it’s not without its drawbacks. In the video below, Kat Shoulders and Zach Weiss discuss what they like about their respective cameras from Leica and Sony. Both are relatively new to the market, both are 60-megapixel, and both are fairly compact, yet the two cameras are wildly different. Is one better than the other? Is one more practical than the other? Is one cooler than the other? Watch and let us know what you think. The post 60 Megapixel Madness: Sony vs. Leica appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Mar 18, 2024

Collector Profile: Andrew Benzer and His Prodigious “To Sell” Pile

Andrew Benzer has around twenty or thirty watches he’d like to get rid of at any given time. The longtime reader and friend of Worn & Wound’s slough pile would form an impressive collection on its own, complete with grail watches like an Omega Speedmaster Professional. The watches he holds on to are even more varied and impressive. “I love watches, I love different kinds of watches,” said Andrew in an interview. “There is no other experience that’s akin to actually having something on your wrist for an extended period of time. And as a result, I have acquired probably more watches than most people would like to admit.” That collection is in the range of 60 to 70 watches and major names like Tudor, Omega, Zenith, and Grand Seiko, and smaller brands like Brew, Ming, and Halios. But like so many watch enthusiasts, for Andrew it all started with Timex and Seiko.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Andrew Benzer (@vintage1982benz) “My godfather gifted me a Timex for my first communion,” Andrew recalled. “And I remember just thinking it was the coolest thing in the world, it made me feel so grown up. I would wear it to school every day, I wore that thing until the plastic band basically disintegrated. And just from a very practical standpoint, I always thought a person should have a watch, you should know what time it is. This is in the 80s and 90s and well before smartphones and everything.” Timex led to Casio, Casio led to Fossil, and Fos...

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The Roundup: Overbuilt Tool Watches, Versatile Gear, and Good Old US-Made Straps Worn & Wound
Casio DW6900 Mar 10, 2024

The Roundup: Overbuilt Tool Watches, Versatile Gear, and Good Old US-Made Straps

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week’s roundup is an exciting mix of sport-focused watches and gear that can stand the test of time. We start off with the Ollech & Wajs Navichron Chronograph and another chronograph of a completely different kind in the Casio DW6900. A sleek and modern everyday carry knife and single pass strap from ADPT make up our gear and accessories highlight; lastly, we wrap things up with a certified rig in the GWG2000 Mudmaster. Read on! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick c...

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What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast Fratello
Jan 22, 2024

What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast

Why you own a particular watch is a deeply personal affair. No one should tell you what you should collect and wear, nor should anyone suggest how you should live your life. You like what you like, and you do what you want to do. That’s why, in this article, I will only tell you […] Visit What A WWII-Inspired Military Watch Means To A 21st-Century Enthusiast to read the full article.

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Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More Fratello
Jan 22, 2024

Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More

As you’ve probably noticed over the past three weeks, most members of the Fratello team have shared their 2024 watch resolutions already. But before the month ends, I’d also like to put my watch-related goals for this year down in writing. Can I guarantee that I’ll fulfill them all? No, but since the wheels are […] Visit Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More to read the full article.

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Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim Fratello
Rolex Market Price Jan 21, 2024

Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim

Today, I’d like to share an interesting verdict from the Dutch Institute for Financial Disputes (Kifid) in a case between an insurance company (Achmea Schadeverzekeringen N.V.) and a consumer. The consumer had an insurance policy with an additional clause for valuable goods. Importantly, this additional insurance also covered the loss/theft of valuable goods outside the […] Visit Dutch Insurance Company Forced To Pay Full Rolex Market Price To Theft Victim to read the full article.

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Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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Holiday Gift Guide to Classic Silhouettes with Wolter Watch Worn & Wound
Dec 7, 2023

Holiday Gift Guide to Classic Silhouettes with Wolter Watch

Some things just don’t go out of style, and for good reason. The classic silhouette of a timeless jacket, the perfect tee shirt, an excellent pair of boots, or the quintessential go-anywhere, do-anything wristwatch makes an excellent addition to your closet of gear. That’s exactly what we’re looking at today-gifting gear that will last a lifetime and never look out of place. Let’s take a closer look at some of our favorite enduring silhouettes, starting off with the new Classic Automatic from Wolter Watch. Crafted from 316L Stainless Steel, the Classic Automatic from Wolter is a tastefully-sized everyday watch. At 39.5mm wide and 11.25mm thick, the Classic Automatic is the Goldilocks size for nearly any wrist. The case features a generously sized crown that makes setting the time a breeze, while the surrounding crown guards keep it protected from those accidental bumps that happen during daily wear. On the case, you’ll find a mix of brushed and polished finishes, each achieved to a high degree bringing a level of finishing that you might not see on other watches within the price range. You can choose from a stark white dial or a handsome navy blue, each choice is easy to pair with a wide range of straps should you find yourself wanting to experiment. The Classic Automatic is clean, legible, and packed with features that could easily be your one-watch collection. For a limited time, get a free strap with purchase of a watch. The post Holiday Gift Guide to Classi...

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The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alec Dent Worn & Wound
Blancpain doesn’t have heritage Oct 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Alec Dent

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Alec Dent brings us a trio of amazing and historic tool watches, each with a story to tell. This is a selection with loads of character and a surprising amount of flexibility. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. In putting together the perfect three watch collection, I’m looking for diversity. Who wants a collection where each watch is competing against the others? A well-rounded trio gets you more bang for your buck and can provide some assurance that each watch will get a decent amount of wrist time. With only three watches it’s hard to make sure you’ve got a watch for every occasion-like measuring radioactivity, keeping highly-accurate time for a thousand years, or calculating your rate of martini consumption-but I feel confident I’ve covered most of the important bases. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf – $1,500 Every watch collection needs a dive watch. (Or, as many in the watch community seem to think, two or three or four or five or…) There is no better value proposition than the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf. 200 meters of water resistance with a screw down crown? Check. Heritage? I don’t know how you could argue a 141-year-old Swiss made brand that launched one of the first true dive watches alongside Rolex and Blancpain doesn’t have heritage. And unlike those other two brands, which have seen their prices balloon exorbitant...

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Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep Worn & Wound
Sep 20, 2023

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep

Within sight of the Chicago skyline, I stepped off the gunwale of the 47-foot Seaquest II into Lake Michigan and deflated my buoyancy wing. We’d left the dock in Hammond, Indiana under a moody sky and spitting rain, but after an hour’s cruise, the clouds parted and the lake’s surface flattened out. The sun cast filtered shafts of “God light” onto the skyscrapers in the distance, the last view I saw before descending 50 feet into the blue-green depths. I followed the yellow mooring line down to where it was tied in to an auger on the lake bed. And then, there it was: a ship’s anchor, standing proud of the mud. It was coated with algae and quogga mussels but was unmistakable, looking like the archetypal sailor’s tattoo, with a five-foot shank and one fluke pointing to the surface it hadn’t seen in over a century. An intact anchor on a shipwreck is a thrill for any diver and if I wasn’t already chilled from the 59-degree water I’d have gotten goosebumps. To mark the moment, I looked down at my left wrist. The Benrus Ultra-Deep diving watch nestled under the cuff of my thick glove read 9:14. The Great Lakes, a chain of five huge inland seas that hold over 20% of the world’s freshwater, have provided a connected passage for cargo and passenger vessels since the early 19th century. Ships have carried coal, iron ore, lumber and grain between the American states and Canadian provinces that border the lakes, as well as beyond to Europe through the St. Lawrence...

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A Week In Watches, Episode 63: Geneva Watch Days Special Worn & Wound
De Bethune s Sep 10, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode 63: Geneva Watch Days Special

In the special edition of A Week In Watches, Zach Weiss and Blake Buettner sit down together to discuss some of the most interesting new releases from Geneva Watch Days, and more. From blacked out Doxas, to kind of blue De Bethunes, and a Eucalyptus Ressence, there were plenty of new watches to appreciate, including the joint Only Watch submission from H. Moser and MB&F;. You can view more of our Geneva Watch Days coverage right here, and keep an eye out for more yet to come. Geneva Watch Days didn’t give us the only new releases last week, though. One of the biggest surprises, and a welcome one at that, was the new Seiko ‘Alpinist’ GMT Prospex references, which brings their 6R54 GMT caliber into the beloved field watch collection. It makes a whole lot of sense in this platform, even if it is a ‘caller’ style GMT, so we’re thrilled to see it makes its way over. This episode of A Week In Watches is sponsored by our friends at Shinola. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufacturing, Shinola Detroit is proud to share this video that reveals the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This cinematic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Learn more about Shinola’s Timeless American ...

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IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces Worn & Wound
IWC Adds Aug 28, 2023

IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces

Sometimes I get tagged with the label of curmudgeon for my somewhat finicky and at times nonsensical taste in watches (and movies, and other things – I like what I like). But at the end of the day, I really just want watches to be fun, and for everyone to chill just a little bit when it comes to the hottest of takes on Instagram, YouTube, and elsewhere. If there’s one feature on a watch that captures a more nonchalant attitude toward watches in general, I think it has to be the fully lumed dial, right? Is there anything else that appeals so strongly to that proverbial inner child, the one who is still fascinated with things that glow in the dark? Lumed dials have been having a bit of a moment as of late, and now IWC is getting in on the action, with their first pilot’s watch with a fully lumed dial treatment, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. The Black Aces is the latest in an ongoing series of watches that IWC has made in partnership with US Navy squadrons as part of their Professional Pilot’s Watches Program. This new watch takes inspiration from a previous watch that IWC created for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41, also known as the Black Aces. This squadron has roots that date back to 1950, and is based at Naval Air Station Lemoore in California, and their Black Aces patch can be seen on the dial at the 6:00 position of the new pilot’s watch. IWC refers to this as a “Lumicast” dial, and it comes together after a complex process that invol...

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Everything you need to know about dial finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

Everything you need to know about dial finishing

When you look at a watch, what’s the first thing you notice? Do you immediately comment on the movement, or perhaps case finishing? Of course not – it’s the dial. No matter how nice the movement is, or even how suitable the dimensions are for your wrist, the dial is the likely the one to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about dial finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback

It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite May 28, 2023

Recommended: Watchbox Interviews Indie Watchmaking Aficionado Mike “Shani”

A prominent figure thanks to his Instagram account documenting his impressive collection of independent watchmaking, Mike “Shani” Shanlikian is an American collector who watches that are widely regarded as the most important in the genre, including the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain. Mr Shanlikian was recently interviewed by George Mayer, the head of sales at pre-owned watch retailer Watchbox. Himself a watch aficionado (and sporting an F.P. Journe Octa Perpetuelle with matching bracelet), Mr Mayer quizzed Mr Shanlikian on his collection and delved into his motivations for collecting independent watchmaking in the 23-minute video interview. An F.P. Journe tourbillon duo. Image – Mike Shanlikian The Akrivia AK-06 and RRCC I. Image – Mike Shanlikian A few watches from the collection. Image – Mike Shanlikian Watchmaking is a fusion of science and art, according to Mr Shanlikian, who notes in the increasing interest in independent watchmaking was driven by F.P. Journe and comparable brands that rely on traditional methods to create watches. He showcases some favourites from his collection in the video, including the “1 in 30” Chronometer by American watchmaker Keaton Myrick. But the most significant watches are documented in the video are the George Daniels Millennium and Dufour Simplicity, matched by their contemporary counterparts, the Rexhep Rexhepi’s Akrivia AK-06 and Gre...

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