Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Doxa SUB 750T - A Big Watch That Wears Just Right
The oversized wrist presence and impressive specs of the SUB 750T belie a wearability that makes it one of the more interesting vintage-inspired divers on the market.
Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom
44,483 articles · 271 videos found · page 61 of 1492
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Benrus Debuts a New Version of the Classic Sky Chief Chronograph
Benrus has unveiled a new version of their Sky Chief, a classic pilot’s chronograph that dates to the brand’s 1940s heyday. There are many, many vintage inspired chronographs and re-editions of classic references on the market, so it takes a certain something to stand out from the crowd in this particular watch collecting niche. It appears that Benrus, for this release, has taken the approach of creating a vintage styled chronograph that is truly in line with the proportions of the original, something a lot of brands simply don’t care about, or don’t quite go far enough in emulating. The headline here, I think, is that the new Sky Chief measures in at a very vintage-accurate 36mm in diameter. The original Sky Chief was approximately 35mm, so this is about as close to the original as anyone has a right to expect given the need to use a modern movement. The decision to go small here has two key benefits. First, obviously, the case is going to wear great on a huge variety of wrists. The 36mm diameter is a very accommodating size, and the case height of 11.9mm and lug to lug of 42.5mm make for a watch with classic proportions, at least on paper (we haven’t seen the Sky Chief in person yet). The other important benefit of a smaller case that people do not talk about nearly enough when it comes to watches like this, chronographs in particular, is that you wind up with a far more balanced and cohesive dial. A smaller case of course means less dial space, and for a c...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel
Ever since its introduction in 2022, the Citizen Tsuyosa collection has left its mark on the accessible, sporty-chic, automatic watch market. In a nutshell, it is one of the most advisable models for anyone looking for a fairly-priced, stylished and well-built watch. Over the years, we’ve seen several evolutions, with new dial colours, a smaller […]
Worn & Wound
The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch
The vintage watch market is constantly littered with timepieces featuring organizational logos, slogans, and company mascots on their dials. Wristwatch anniversary gifts and promotional products were incredibly common throughout the 20th and early 21st centuries because of their ability to advertise on someone’s wrist, similar to cars with advertising wraps for insurance and real estate companies nowadays. Many of these watches have degraded in value over time as a result of their engraved case backs and personalizations that some collectors find unappealing. However, there are some timepieces of this genre that hold their value to this day, my favorite example being the iconic Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King that always seems to worm its way onto my Instagram feed. The watch at the heart of this article would easily be passed by many collectors on their escapades through online auction websites. I’ll admit it: I glanced right over the listing several times when it was first posted, foolishly thinking it was another inexpensive piece of advertising from the 1970s. It wasn’t until I put two-and-two together, realizing that the Italian-American Civil Rights League was an organization I had previously researched and had established an interest in, that I went back and instantly added the watch to my cart. For those of you unfamiliar with this organization and its history, allow me to introduce you to them and illustrate just how rare this watch’s existence is today. A...
![[VIDEO] Introducing: The Windup Watch Fair Documentary Film + 2026 Windup Dates](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GENERAL_35.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Introducing: The Windup Watch Fair Documentary Film + 2026 Windup Dates
Last year marked the 10th anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair. This was a significant milestone that, if you had asked us a decade ago when we launched, we might not have confidently believed we’d achieve. To mark the occasion, and to do something Zach, James, and I often struggle with (aka: celebrating our achievements), we enlisted a friend of Worn & Wound and a tremendously talented filmmaker, Taylor Scott Mason, to create a documentary. This film takes you behind the scenes of the production of the largest watch fair in the world. We hope you enjoy this documentary as much as we do. For those who have followed Worn & Wound for years, we hope you take pride in what this community has built over the last decade. As we always say, Windup is about the enthusiasts who attend and the passionate brand owners who participate. I also want to add a special note to our team. Zach, James, and I know how hard you all work to put this show on. You make it look easy when it is, in fact, just the opposite. Thank you for everything you do and for making Windup what it is. We hope you enjoy. – Blake Malin, Co-founder & CEO The Official 2026 Windup Schedule Windup Watch Fair Dallas March 13 – 15, 2026 Hickory Street Annex Dallas, TX We’re excited to announce that Windup is headed back to Dallas and staying for an extended weekend! We will be returning to our beloved venue, Hickory Street Annex, nestled near Downtown Dallas. The Annex was originally a distribution cente...
Monochrome
First Look - The Venezianico Redentore Utopia II Enhances Italian Watchmaking with the Refined V5001 Calibre
Founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017, the Venice-based brand was initially launched as Meccaniche Veneziane. The company got noticed with the Nereide diver and the Redentore dress line before rebranding in 2022 to strengthen its identity and link to Venetian craftsmanship. The Redentore Utopia II, after the 2024 Redentore Utopia, is the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Sector Dial Review: Trendsetting Vintage Style Under $3,000
The Longines Heritage Classic Sector Dial has, in its relatively short time on the market, set itself apart from the rest of the Swiss brand's vintage-inspired Heritage series with its combination of retro charm, understated dimensions, and minimalist aesthetics, all at a very approachable price point, Here is a closer look at the watch, with a brief foray into other recent timepieces that just might have been inspired by its success. [toc-section heading="A Bit of Longines History"] Longines was founded in 1832 in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the company’s ...
SJX Watches
Compact Proportions for the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual
Vacheron Constantin caps a banner year with the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, finally positioning its compact perpetual as a unisex proposition rather than a gem-set ladies’ exclusive. Building on the vintage-friendly 36.5 mm case size first seen in 2022, the latest references arrive in either white or pink gold, with the clean, unadorned versions taking centre stage as they broaden the landscape for classic perpetual calendars in genuinely compact sizes. Initial thoughts Some watches are good not because they are revolutionary, but simply because they combine several appealing traits in a single watch; the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar is a good example. The cal. 1120 QP movement has been around for decades, and since 2022 it has even had a home in this 36.5 mm Traditionnelle case, albeit only in gem-set models positioned as ladies watches. For the first time, this compact perpetual calendar is positioned as a unisex watch thanks to an unadorned case in either 18k white or pink gold. An additional gem-set reference joins the collection as well, but the standard model is the newsworthy article as it adds a meaningful option to the landscape of vintage-leaning perpetual calendars. Production has already commenced, and the pieces that the brand manages to make before year-end will be marked with the 270th anniversary emblem that has marked all of this year’s releases. This small detail denoting a subset of the production may prove to be a fun collecto...
Monochrome
First Look - The New 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Vacheron Constantin unveils two new versions of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 36.5mm cases, the first to appear without a gem-set case. When it debuted in 2022, the Traditionnelle QP was positioned as a women’s watch, adorned with diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial. It’s incredible to see the impact that market trends can have […]
Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic
When Longines reintroduced the Ultra-Chron back in 2022, many enthusiasts and vintage watch lovers were excited by the possibility of the brand exploring one of their key collections with a new lens. To the surprise of many, the watches that have been introduced in the new-look Ultra-Chron lineup have frequently been on the more contemporary side when it comes to design. For a brand that has become known for raiding the archives, the most revered Ultra-Chrons of old haven’t really been a factor with the new pieces. That changes, however, with the introduction of the new Ultra-Chron Classic, which, as the name suggests, is a riff on the original Ultra-Chron, the one often seen by collectors as the most desirable. The Ultra-Chron has always existed as a testament to Longines’ commitment to chronometry. When the collection launched in 1967, it was the first time a watch with a movement based on those used in chronometry competitions had been successfully shifted to a mass produced product. The Ultra-Chron was one of several watches released in the 1960s that effectively threw down the gauntlet in the ongoing chronometry wars among many of the biggest Swiss brands (plus Seiko/Grand Seiko). So it makes sense that Longines would return to the original design of one their most historically important watches. The Ultra-Chron Classic is about as sturdy an example of a clean, midcentury watch design as you’re likely to see. Its circular stainless steel case comes in two si...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic 39mm California Dial
Alpina gained a head start in the sports watch market in 1938 with its Alpina 4, a robust model featuring shock and water-resistant properties, anti-magnetic capabilities, and a sturdy steel case. The heavy-duty Alpiner Extreme, revamped in 2022, is the rightful heir of the Alpina 4. Designed for outdoor adventures, the Alpiner Extreme is also […]
Worn & Wound
Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size
Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy. The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...
Worn & Wound
Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe MK2 in Two Case Sizes and Four Dial Variants
The Aquascaphe has been a staple in Baltic’s lineup since 2018, when they introduced their first vintage inspired diver to quite a bit of fanfare. This was still the early days of the vintage inspired, microbrand boom, and Baltic had a front row seat to the incredible growth in the enthusiast watch community that would occur over the next several years. There have been a variety of Aquascaphes released in the interim (a variety of dial configurations, a GMT version, a titanium release, and so forth) but the new watch announced today is specifically being pitched as a “MK 2” release, or a new generation for the venerable vintage inspired diver. Iterating, much less innovating, on a watch like this is tricky business. The whole premise of vintage inspired designs is that they kind of got things right 50-70 years ago. But Baltic, as always, has made a handful of subtle updates that move the lineup forward in predictable but satisfying ways. The headline here is that all four dial variants (the colors are Blue, Green, Warm Silver and Grey) that are part of this release will be available in two case sizes, 39.5mm and 37mm. This is really smart on Baltic’s part. The original Aquascaphe released all those years ago came in at 39mm, so here we have one in essentially the same size, along with one that’s a little smaller and playing into the current trend of true vintage inspired case sizes. You can see the difference in case sizes in our photos – the green is 37mm an...
Worn & Wound
Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43
Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...
Monochrome
News - IWC Launches Curated: Restored & Certified Vintage Watches Available in Selected Boutiques
The watch market is in rapid evolution. There was a time when watch brands were selling new timepieces, leaving the second-hand and vintage markets in the hands of independent shops. However, times have changed. Consumer behaviours have evolved, with watch enthusiasts rightfully demanding more trust in the process of acquiring pre-owned and vintage models. For […]
Monochrome
Introducing - A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm
Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Laventure Marine Type 3 is a Proper Tool Watch
Founded in 2017, Laventure is the project of a man named Clément Gaud. Despite achieving a degree of fame over the years, it is still a one-man show. Focused on genuine Swiss-made watches with an undeniable vintage flair and made for adventure (hence the name), Laventure has produced several watches under the Marine and Sous-Marine […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Enamel Infinite Grey
There is a good possibility that Girard-Perregaux may remain an if-you-know-you-know pick when it comes to the luxury watch market, but it’s not for lack of trying. Its recent vintage reissue, partnerships with Aston Martin F1, and focus on different sizing options with unique design languages indicates their desire for mainstream acceptance. Despite these efforts, competitors like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe still seem to overshadow the brand and dominate the hyped up market space when discussing integrated bracelet sports watches with heritage designs. With their latest release, Girard-Perregaux is aiming to showcase its technical know-how and craftsmanship pedigree rather than following the same tired trends like so many others in the space. Emphasizing its in-house ground-up construction, the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Enamel Infinite Grey leans into the initial under-the-radar vibes to snatch your attention with interesting new details. However, they do come at a price. Case It should be a known quantity at this point, but I still find myself surprised at the case architecture and finishing almost every time I handle a Laureato. At first glance, it presents as many other integrated bracelet watches do, with a hefty presence and no shortage of conspicuous steel. Though the more time you spend poring over its blend of straight and curved lines, the more you appreciate the visual cohesion between angular and organic. Bouncing between polished and finely bru...
SJX Watches
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is Summer Ready
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Monochrome
First Look - Hitting the Sweet Spot… The new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 35mm
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection, launched in 2024, is a charming retro-inspired family that has caught many a watch aficionado’s eye. Injecting a new lease of life into a brand that was often overlooked, the Millesime family is out to conquer the market of neo-vintage dress watches with modern specifications. Coupled with competitive prices, the Millesime […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Zenith G.F.J. Revives the Legendary Calibre 135 (Incl. Video)
On the occasion of its 160th anniversary, Zenith celebrates its legacy in the field of precision watchmaking, bringing back to life the venerable calibre 135, the most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. In 2022, Zenith released an exclusive limited edition of 10 watches, powered by vintage 135-O movements, restored and […]
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special - And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!
The first association for many on hearing the word "Seiko" is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.
Monochrome
First Look - The New 39mm PVD-Gold Edition of the Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole
The cool Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is back! Dating back to models from the 1960s, this evocative name was used for several Rado models, in particular, travel watches with a world time bezel – while the Captain Cook name immediately refers to the brand’s vintage-inspired dive watches. The Over-Pole came back in 2022 as a […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The PS Horology Tsuba Watch and the New Project of Peter Speake
Peter Speake has been captivating watch enthusiasts for over three decades, primarily through the creations of Speake Marin, the brand he co-founded and helmed as a watchmaker from 2002 to 2017. In 2022, Speake launched his new venture, PS Horology, and the brand’s debut timepieces – the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son editions – […]
Worn & Wound
Maen Rounds out the Manhattan Collection with a New Larger Case Option
Maen Watches, based in Stockholm, Sweden, has been crafting unique timepieces since 2017. With over eight different collections, they have developed a cohesive design language that is instantly recognizable as a Maen watch. Maen entered the integrated bracelet sports watch market about two years ago, although perhaps a tad late. Conversely, they appeared to embrace the resurgence of square(ish) watches early, offering a design that I personally prefer over a more recent controversial cubical release. Although I don’t have any hands-on experience with their watches yet, I have closely followed their development from the beginning and am pretty impressed with their attention to detail and the use of polished facets. This is particularly noteworthy considering their price point. Following the success of their Manhattan 37 Automatic and the Manhattan 39 Ultra-Thin Manual Wind, Maen will launch a new line, the Manhattan 40, with a larger case and automatic caliber. Two standard models will be available: one in midnight blue and another in copper/salmon. Both will feature vertically elongated Côtes de Genève dials. Additionally, a special-edition model will feature a dial made of green jade stone. Jade is a valued gemstone with a craft history of about 7,000 years, renowned for its toughness and beauty. In China, it rivaled gold and diamonds. The Mayans, Aztecs, and Māori also cherished jade. Ancient Egyptians linked it to love and balance. Today, jade symbolizes goodness...
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More
It’s time for a look at the best watches of 2024, according to me! These lists can be challenging to compile because the year is long and sees many releases. I’ve managed to winnow it down to seven picks, though, so let’s begin. Choosing the best watches of 2024 marked a change for me. In […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black
Excelsior Park re-entered the market with a boom in 2021. The brand released many models, created limited editions and one-offs, and then retreated until this year. This past summer, after a few years of hibernation, EP returned with a time-only model, the 884-SI. The watch received positive reviews for its appearance and competitive price. Now […] Visit Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT
Since Vulcain decided to focus more on models outside of its bread-and-butter alarm watches, we have seen an array of new models coming to the market. Primarily based on vintage timepieces, the new Vulcain models include chronographs, time-only watches, and divers. The last of those is an exciting line consisting of the Nautical Heritage alarm […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not?
There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired watches in today’s market. With so many options, there are bound to be hits and misses. This article will be a personal take on the factors that attract me to a vintage-inspired watch design or do the complete opposite. I have found four main aspects that seem to frustrate me […] Visit Vintage-Inspired Watch Designs - What Makes Them Work Or Not? to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante
Co-founded by Swiss industrial designer Andrea Furlan and watch collector Hamad Al Marri, Furlan Marri launched on Kickstarter in 2021 with a beautifully designed vintage chronograph powered by a hybrid mecha-quartz engine. The next act, in 2022, was an equally handsome vintage black sector dial equipped with a mechanical movement that won over the MONOCHROME […]