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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba Monochrome
Favre Leuba As we recently discussed Aug 29, 2024

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba

As we recently discussed with Patrik Hoffmann, long-established brand Favre-Leuba is making a comeback with ambitious plans. To revive one of the oldest names in the watch industry, Hoffmann aims to position the brand within its historical price segment (between CHF 2,000 and 4,500), offering affordable yet high-value watches with a strong vintage inspiration – […]

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...

In-Depth – The New Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, And Some More Chiming Beauties Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Aug 29, 2024

In-Depth – The New Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, And Some More Chiming Beauties

The grande sonnerie is one of the most intricate mechanisms in watchmaking. Its creation requires the utmost technical expertise as hundreds of components are required to interact simultaneously and strike time indications perfectly. Bulgari has a rich tradition of crafting striking watches, having already produced grande and petite sonnerie watches. This expertise first originated from the […]

Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their vintage watch wishlists. As you can imagine, these guys spend a lot of time thinking about watches. But when they’re not writing about the latest releases, they’re often lusting after (and hunting down) vintage watches online. It’s a hazard of the job. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists to read the full article.

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 28, 2024

MB&F; and L’Epee 1839 Introduce Steampunk Airship Clock

MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Aug 28, 2024

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare

Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...

Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono Fratello
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono

As the watch world holds its breath ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Tudor has taken the opportunity to debut a new blue colorway for the Black Bay Chrono. This latest iteration also features the fan-favorite five-row bracelet, which only made its way onto the model earlier this year. First introduced in both panda and reverse […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2024

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters

As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith Fratello
Grand Seiko Aug 28, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith

Well, that is what I wrote when I started this story, genuinely believing that I would have a problem choosing. But as many times before, RJ, Mike, and others have finished their Best Watches Under €10K stories and stolen my chosen thunder. The €5K–10K segment is not easy for me as my taste annoyingly tends […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith to read the full article.

Recapping the Worn & Wound Summer Pop-Up Hosted by The James Brand Worn & Wound
Citizen Lōcī Zodiac Aug 27, 2024

Recapping the Worn & Wound Summer Pop-Up Hosted by The James Brand

On Saturday, August 17th, Worn & Wound hit the West Coast to celebrate the opening of the newest headquarters of The James Brand. A large multipurpose space, the Oceanside, California The James Brand location serves as office space, a storefront highlighting their vast collection of EDC items, and now an event space capable of hosting the enthusiast community keen on engaging with and celebrating our shared hobbies. To celebrate its opening, The James Brand invited us out for a one-day-only pop-up event along with our friends from Artefkt, Belmont, Brew, Citizen, Lōcī, Zodiac, and of course, the Windup Watch Shop was there as well. Recently, we have had the pleasure of hosting and attending some excellent meetups allowing us to share our enthusiasm in a more intimate setting. On our first visit to the greater San Diego area, we were overwhelmed by the positivity, passion, and overall good vibes hoisted upon us by the locals. Making the trek down from Los Angeles and up from San Diego, Oceanside became a confluence for both the watch and EDC communities to explore new gear pairings, share their collecting thought processes, and discuss practicality and design. We were blown away by the support and thank all those who attended and shared their passions with us! With The James Brand focusing on minimalistic design with uncompromising functionality, it makes sense that their community and the watch community would overlap. It can sometimes be hard to explain exactly what cau...

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping Worn & Wound
Aug 27, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: the Pendulum Clock and Improving the Accuracy of Timekeeping

Editor’s Note: Today, a new series from Andrew Canter: the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this first installment, Andrew looks at the pendulum clock, an invention largely taken for granted today, but one which led to virtually every horological advancement commonly known. It also had a profound ripple effect on how we live our lives, allowing human beings the ability the schedule events with a level of precision previously impossible.  In 16th century London, only the very wealthy owned domestic clocks, watches and sundials. Inventories of their property suggest that most clocks and watches were imported from Germany, France and the Low Countries (see below). By about 1600 however, a small group of makers had become established in the City of London. King Henry VIII (1509 – 1547) and his successors encouraged foreign makers and mathematicians to settle in London and bring their skills with them. Sir Thomas More, his father, his household and his descendants by Rowland Lockey, after Hans Holbein the Younger oil on canvas, 1593 © National Portrait Gallery, London Portrait of Lady Bolle, Circle of Paul Van Somer, London 1627. Portrayed wearing a set of superb matching jewellery, which includes a fine ruby-set watch, with its key. Image Courtesy of the Science Museum Group/The Clockmakers’ Museum © The Board of Trustees of the Science Museum, London As the market for clocks and watches grew in London, more and more immigrant makers made their way to t...

Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier and Bahraini partner PRJKT8 present a special edition Tonda PF Skeleton. Limited to just 8 examples, the exclusive timepiece features flamed graphite blue indices that offer a striking contrast to the masterfully crafted, graphite-coloured openworked dial.  Based on one of the most appealing models within the now classic Tonda PF collection, the brand’s […]

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone Edition

For their latest collaboration piece, Zenith and Felipe Pantone are teaming up once again, bringing a fresh burst of colour and artistic innovation to the brand’s collection. Pantone, renowned for his electrifying kinetic art that merges dynamic colours with geometric patterns, first collaborated with Zenith in 2020, when he transformed the Le Locle-based manufacture’s façade […]

IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse SJX Watches
IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Aug 27, 2024

IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse

Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch. A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue. Initial thoughts As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting. The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel. And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date. Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price. Shades of grey Ent...

Introducing: The Orient Bambino 38 With Sportier, More Casual Attire Fratello
Orient Aug 27, 2024

Introducing: The Orient Bambino 38 With Sportier, More Casual Attire

Last year, I had a hands-on experience with the fun and affordable Orient Bambino 38. The watches were limited editions and available in four colors, each with a brown nubuck leather strap. To me, they seemed quite dressy with their soft pastel colors and the relatively formal-looking strap. Now Orient tries to make the Bambino […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Bambino 38 With Sportier, More Casual Attire to read the full article.

Introducing: The Autumn-Inspired Red Grand Seiko SBGY035 And SBGA499 Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGY035 Aug 27, 2024

Introducing: The Autumn-Inspired Red Grand Seiko SBGY035 And SBGA499

Wait, am I writing about autumn already? Well, we are in the last week of August, so yes, it is quickly approaching (here in the Netherlands, at least). Well, at least we get to see some nice burgundy, orange, and brown watch releases. This year, Grand Seiko kicks things off with two autumn-themed new watches. […] Visit Introducing: The Autumn-Inspired Red Grand Seiko SBGY035 And SBGA499 to read the full article.

Orient Bambino 38 Expands with Fresh New Colors and Versatile Steel Bracelet Two Broke Watch Snobs
Orient Aug 27, 2024

Orient Bambino 38 Expands with Fresh New Colors and Versatile Steel Bracelet

While Orient's Bambino series has built its reputation as an ultimate bang-for-the-buck final destination for every automatic dress watch wannabe, the new additions to the Bambino 38 collection only further reinforce this claim. In 2022, the company released a baby Bambino in the form of the Bambino 38-a slightly smaller and unisex version of the rather notably famous 40.5mm sibling-still aiming at that smaller customer group wanting something dressier, a bit more versatile, and refined. Now, with three new dial colors and a steel bracelet hitting the market, the Bambino 38 has some serious potential to wow a fresh new audience.

Out of Office: Exploring the Canadian Rockies with Citizen’s Team Promaster Worn & Wound
Citizen s Team Promaster Citizen Aug 26, 2024

Out of Office: Exploring the Canadian Rockies with Citizen’s Team Promaster

Citizen is a Japanese watch company well known for its technical precision, quality, innovation and eye for design. Founded on principles that elevate society above self, Citizen has been producing timepieces for “all citizens of the world to enjoy” for over 100 years. While following this mantra means producing pieces for the average person, it also means producing time pieces for those who live a life full of adventure, those that seek to go deeper, go higher, and go farther than others have before. For these people, the Promaster line of watches was created.   In early July, I received an invitation from Citizen to “join us on an extreme adventure in the Canadian Rockies as we celebrate Citizen Protester’s 35th Anniversary with Team Promaster.” I instantly accepted despite not knowing what was in store. As I began preparing for this trip, I wanted to dive deeper into the history of Citizen as a brand, and their collection of Promaster watches, to expand my knowledge and hopefully gain some idea of what I’d be getting myself into. Now, Citizen states that “Promaster isn’t just a collection-it’s a mindset and a pursuit of endurance-a symbol of excellence, passion, and performance,” and after the adventure we went on, I can say it’s the truth. Each day saw us pushing ourselves to go higher, go deeper, and go farther than we did the day before.  In order to truly experience the Promaster line of watches, Citizen graciously allowed each of us to ...

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver Worn & Wound
Aug 26, 2024

Hands-On: The Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver

“Sold Out,” the words marking what was previously an “add to cart” button, reminding me that I missed out on the original drop. Just a few months ago, a small unassuming brand just 4 hours south of me in Cincinnati, Ohio teased a few images of an eye-catching dive-style watch sporting the tongue-in-cheek dial text of “0 ft = 0m, No Submersion, Superlative Desk Diver, Unofficially Certified”. While it is true that a lot of brands release watches on the more playful side of things, it is rare that the actual watch appears well executed throughout but instead leans into the whimsical, forgetting about tradition and practicality. So as further details and images were revealed of the 75-piece limited edition, it began to paint a picture of a well-made everyday watch utilizing new old stock Swiss-made cases poking fun at the seriousness plaguing the watch community. I loaded up the website, then swung and missed. So, when I learned that a non limited Desk Diver was in production with an upcoming release, I jumped at the opportunity to get the model on my wrist and give it a proper go.  Being that the original was limited simply due to the number of cases found after 50 years of hiding, Cincinnati Watch Co. set out to recreate a faithful case design made to a modern specification. The vintage-inspired cushion case measures a stout 43.3 mm in diameter. Despite its large measurements on paper, the Desk Diver Professional makes use of its clever geometry to disappear on...

Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Aug 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB

I’m going to be upfront. I was not a fan when I first saw pictures of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB. The watch started as an exclusive for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula 1 team and has now been made available to the public. People love to say that Tudor listened to […] Visit Hands-On With The Suprising Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB to read the full article.

Introducing – The Bianchet B1.618 Grand Date Sapphire Edition Pulls Back All Covers Monochrome
Aug 26, 2024

Introducing – The Bianchet B1.618 Grand Date Sapphire Edition Pulls Back All Covers

Bianchet has been carving out a name for itself for crafting high-tech shock-resistant sports tourbillon watches, with a signature tonneau shape. The curved profile, integrated rubber straps, and ultra-resilient construction ensure optimum comfort and performance under pretty much any circumstance. To showcase its watchmaking capabilities well beyond the complex openworked movements, Bianchet now presents the […]

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero Aug 26, 2024

Auction News: The Original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” Ref. 16599 Emerges at Phillips

A watch known to insiders but largely unknown, the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” came long before the modern-day version that arrived at Baselworld 2012. It was a ref. 16599 equipped with the cal. 4030 based on the Zenith El Primero that was produced sometime in the 1990s. Now the one-off “Zenith Rainbow” is going under the hammer at Phillips come November when the auction house stages Reloaded, a thematic sale dedicated to watches made between 1980 and 1999. Having been owned by a well-known collector for several years – the same gentleman sold another record-setting Rolex at Phillips several years ago – this ref. 16599 has a bezel set with sapphires in a rainbow graduated due, along with a diamond pave dial with blue sapphire hour markers. I happened to meet the prior owner of this watch and he related the story of how he came to possess the watch. Knowing that backstory, the lavish stone setting and almost-bespoke nature of the watch certainly makes sense. Today’s Rainbow in Everose, the descendent of the ref. 16599 Estimated at over CHF3 million, the Daytona “Rainbow” will be sold on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President during Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. The auction catalogue will be available closer to the date of sale.