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New: The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater with Editorial Commentary
A. Lange & Söhne introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater, putting the focus back on the chiming mechanism as a singular complication.
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SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium
Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....
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WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”
Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...
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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...
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How Rolex Controls the Entire Market with Tudor.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin 222 - The Return of an Icon
For 2022, Vacheron Constantin is revisiting the iconic 222 Jumbo watch in 18K yellow gold, with a watch that heavily draws inspiration from the original, but is every bit 21st-century in execution.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269
Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...
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HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400
Have you ever seen a Lockheed Martin F-22 Raptor? Smooth surfaces. A low profile. Amazing cutting-edge specifications. All these things come together to create a fantastical machine. It’s the fighter plane a child from the ’70s would have considered futuristic. And that was the same general feeling I got when I spent time with this … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: Wearing My Dad's Breitling Chronomat Helped To Heal Our Relationship
The watch isn't really my style, but it brought me closer to the man it once belonged to.
Time+Tide
Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop…
Rolex is the biggest watch brand on the planet and James Dowling knows more about it than practically anyone. Known as @misterrolex on Instagram, the veteran collector and journalist is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches and has even been referred to as a “Rolex scholar”. That’s why he’s the ideal man to … ContinuedThe post Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Gold Vs. Gold, Hot Sweaty Watch Showers, Watches In SPAAAACE, And The Evolution Of Watch Culture
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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
H. Moser & Cie.’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. While the watch combines elements found in past Moser watches, including the trademark fume dial, it does so in an novel manner, resulting in a watch that looks and feels different from the brand’s current offerings. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer tourbillon combines familiar elements in a novel manner, resulting in an interesting watch that stands apart from the rest of Moser’s offerings. Mechanically it is a variant of the calibre found in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020. The inclined time display of the earlier model has been eliminated, while the movement has been skeletonised in an unusual step for the brand, which has rarely offered skeleton watches in the past. Visually, the Pioneer tourbillon is not obviously a Moser at first glance, although the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is in a smoked blue that is associated with Moser. In fact, the styling of the watch brings to mind the skeletonised watches of Jaquet Droz. Still, the Pioneer tourbillon is interesting and novel enough that its CHF79,000 price tag is fair, putting it amongst the more appealing tourbillons in this affordable(ish) price segment. A sporty tourbillon The new Pioneer was conceived as a sports watch with a tourbillon. The Pioneer case is rated to 120 m of water resistance and positioned as Moser’s elegant sports watch (as opposed to the Streamliner that is an out-and-out spo...
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Sinn Introduces the EZM 1.1 S
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, Sinn supplied custom-designed chronographs to the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs agency, ZUZ for short, when the unit was established in 1997. Having reissued the watch in a larger format in 2017, the German watchmaker once again revisits the minimalist chronograph with the EZM 1.1 S conceived for the 25th anniversary of the original. Limited to 500 pieces, the EZM 1.1 S is essentially identical to the 2017 limited edition, except it has the addition of a black coating on the hardened steel case, resulting in an exceptionally high level of wear resistance. Initial thoughts The all-black finish fits the EZM 1.1 perfectly in both style and substance. As far as military-inspired instrument watches go, this is a good one – with a few caveats. But because it’s identical to the earlier EZM 1.1, it has the same drawbacks, namely size and weight, both of which are slightly excessive. While the original EZM 1 designed for the ZUZ was compact and lightweight, the EZM 1.1 feels like a chunky, heavy watch on the wrist. At about US$5,500, the EZM 1.1 S is relatively affordable in absolute terms, but fairly pricey for a chronograph powered by Valjoux 7750, albeit one modified to have a central elapsed minutes. Sinn tech A large part of the Sinn proposition is its proprietary technology that boosts durability. Being one of the brand’s priciest watches, the EZM 1.1 S boasts almost all of the brand’s innovations, starti...
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Brace Yourself For Watches & Wonders 2022, Featuring New Releases From Rolex, Cartier, Patek – And Many, Many More
Let's get phygital. The watch world's signature trade show returns (in person, mostly) from March 30 to April 5. Here's everything you need to know.
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Crazy week: the calm before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022
A calm today, before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022 and associated watch fairs being held in Geneva. Here a quick rundown on what is coming this week.
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The Oris ProPilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours
Revolution
When Black and Gold is Racy: The De Bethune DB28GS JPS
De Bethune’s latest DB28GS JPS is a sports watch inspired by F1 and driven by one of the most incredible movements ever designed
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity
Longines is a brand that knows how to use their heritage, which you would expect from the company with the world’s oldest active registered trademark in the iconic winged hourglass. Even when a design is completely new and modern, their logo on the dial is just instantly tied to a lineage of watches that seems … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Galvin Watch Company Loimu is a funky-dialled sporty watch at a great price
Galvin Watch Company, a notable Kickstarter success, present their newest creation: the Loimu collection. Affordably priced and with a high-beat Japanese automatic movement, the release shapes up as a left-field choice for a great everyday watch. Behind the brand After gaining noteworthy industry experience working for TAG Heuer and Omega, Finnish watchmaker Susan Galvin who’s now based … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Galvin Watch Company Loimu is a funky-dialled sporty watch at a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009
Never ones to shy away from a party, Grand Seiko release the SLGA013 and SLGH009. Celebrating the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, these Heritage collection pieces offer well-known GS movements, with improvements to their design, allowing for a better fit on-wrist. With stellar dials and Grand Seiko proprietary steel, neither of these 550-piece limited editions … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hendrick’s Gin: The Original, Weird In A Good Way
While we might be confronted with a plethora of different gins these days, aside from a few standards from the big producers there are a couple of favorites that are enjoyed around the world. Hendrick’s is definitely one of these. Ken Gargett explains why and shares his tasting notes on four different Hendrick's products. Cheers!
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In-depth video of the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton \
SJX Watches
SevenFriday Introduces the Peculiar and Alien Free-D
A maker of affordable watches with unconventional styling, SevenFriday is now a decade old. To commemorate the milestone, the brand has unveiled the Free-D. To put it mildly, the Free-B adds three-dimensionality to the brand’s trademark time display comprised of rotating discs. And in a first for the brand, which has historically relied on Miyota, the Free-D is powered by a Swiss-made movement, Sellita to be exact. Initial thoughts While SevenFriday has increasingly felt like a “fashion” brand with its endless iterations of the same design, the brand has produced timepieces that are genuinely compelling. The Free-D is certainly one of the more interesting examples of its unorthodox design, though the over-the-top style is an acquired taste to say the least. Bold, extra large, and definitely peculiar, the Free-D is actually based on the brand’s signature “squircle” case but dressed up with a 3D-printed external shell and lugs. The added parts do exactly what they are meant to, which is to elaborate on the brand’s traditional case style to distinguish it for the anniversary. And they give the watch a decidedly alien aesthetic – it looks like a prop from a sci-fi film. At the same time, the external cladding on the case is essentially plastic. Granted, plastic of various types is widely used in high-end watchmaking – Richard Mille and Hublot are proponents of its use – but it is certainly not for everyone. In contrast, the time display is simple but easy...
Time+Tide
Channing Tatum sports a Bulgari Aluminum alongside Sandra Bullock and Brad Pitt in new film “The Lost City”
When we see watches in action films, the usual suspects are Rolex, Omega, IWC and Panerai. But in the newly released movie The Lost City, we spotted a daily wearer make its cinematic debut, at least to our knowledge, on the wrist of Mr Magic Mike himself: Channing Tatum. While the watch may not be the … ContinuedThe post Channing Tatum sports a Bulgari Aluminum alongside Sandra Bullock and Brad Pitt in new film “The Lost City” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Edition: The Most Popular Watches Of 2022, So Far
As determined by the most discriminating audience in watchmaking – you.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: MoonSwatch Madness! Huge Lines Form Around The World On Omega x Swatch Launch Day
The hottest watch of the year dropped Saturday, and HODINKEE was there on three continents to document the scene.
Quill & Pad
Corum Admiral 45 Openworked Luminescent Carbon: Forget The Day, Bring On The Night!
Corum has released several new Admiral timepieces for 2022, including six new Admiral 42 models, one of which offers an interesting “grenadier fendu” pattern that was entirely designed in-house at Corum. But the pinnacle of these new additions is the novel Admiral 45 Openworked Luminescent Carbon with a glow-in-the-dark carbon fiber case.
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