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Three Pilot’s Watches Worthy of Any Collection Worn & Wound
Nov 19, 2023

Three Pilot’s Watches Worthy of Any Collection

Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a pilot’s watch, you can truly understand how brands flex their creativity and interpret what they see as an aviator’s invaluable tool. The three watches in the spotlight today may all fall under the same broad category, but each takes such a different approach that it wouldn’t be farfetched to have all three in a collection. It might even be a good idea. Of all the archetypal sport watches that have so gripped our ever-growing community, the pilot’s watch might be the most enigmatic. It’s not as singularly focused or popular in the mainstream as the dive watch, and it doesn’t revel in the romance of travel or flaunt a colorful bezel like a GMT does. Its function is ostensibly straightforward enough – tell the time legibly in the air – yet the how and with what is so undefined that no singular complication or model is the obvious poster child from which all other designs are merely descendents. With a p...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Linde Werdelin’s New Auction Platform, Prepping for Turkey Day, and a Porsche from a Galaxy Far, Far Away Worn & Wound
Linde Werdelin Nov 18, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Linde Werdelin’s New Auction Platform, Prepping for Turkey Day, and a Porsche from a Galaxy Far, Far Away

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com A Porsche 964 on Tatooine In what is quite simply one of the coolest Porsche restomod projects we’ve seen, for your viewing pleasure this week we present the Porsche 964 C4 Cab Art Car ROCS Tatooine by Rocs Motorsports. The idea is simple: a Porsche 964, but Star Wars. This mod perfectly captures the grimy and grounded realness of Tatooine, the home planet of the Skywalker family. It’s appropriately ramshackle and the level of detail is fairly astounding. One such detail is a specific watch by our friends at Autodromo, a white Group C that appears to have been through an adventure or two of its own. Check it via the Rocs Motorsports website, which has a ton of detail on the project.  Best Made Sold Back to its Founder  Best Made Company, the iconic apparel and hard goods brand, was sold to Duluth Trading five years ago, and many fans of the brand felt the direction they’ve been heading since the sale was not where they wanted to go. Much of that sensibility is probably due to the widespread admiration for Best Made founder Peter Buchanan-Smith. Without him, the project just didn...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Nov 18, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque: 11 Complications (Plus Flying Tourbillon) are Impressive, But the Fact that it’s So Wearable is The Real Magic – Reprise

It wasn't until Ian Skellern had the opportunity to handle the four-faced Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 for himself that he understood the sheer scale of JLC’s achievement and gazed in newfound awe. Even though he had read the dimensions of Calibre 185, they were just numbers: in reality, it was much smaller and more wearable than he was expecting. Calibre 185 is by no means a small watch, but, as he reports, it is small for the sheer amount of complications packed inside.

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko lines Nov 17, 2023

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band  Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece.  View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110  Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...

[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration Worn & Wound
Zenith Nov 17, 2023

[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration

Zenith has teamed up with our friends at Time & Tide for a second time to release a new Defy Skyline dubbed the Night Surfer 2. The theme began with the Defy Classic in the original Night Surfer released in 2021, playing with black and blue tones around the openworked dial and case. The Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the outgoing Classic, a move we may not be entirely comfortable with just yet, but the Night Surfer colorway works equally well here with the redesigned dial and frantic running seconds hand at 6 o’clock. This is a watch we’ve looked at in-depth in both its closed dial, and open dial forms, and this might be the biggest personality we’ve seen from this watch to date.  Night Surfer 1 at right, Night Surfer 2 at left We see plenty of blue dials in the watch world and I’d count this as one of the more interesting executions. Like the original, the new four-pointed star structure that comprises the center of the dial is treated to a dynamic application of blue that is darker toward the top, and lighter toward the bottom, with the center of the bridge structure bifurcated by a white line creating a sharp contrast to the deep blues underneath. It’s a visually striking dial as a whole that’s framed by the uniformly finished matte titanium case and bracelet. The 41mm case is angular, without a curve in sight. It’s aggressive in a way, but the dark finish it’s received here means it doesn’t interfere with the dial. It’s the same story with the brac...

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3 SJX Watches
Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership Nov 17, 2023

Ressence Concludes Seddiqi Partnership with the Type 1 DX3

At this year’s Dubai Watch Week, Ressence and its Middle East retail partner, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, have unveiled their third and final edition – the Type 1 DX3. This unique timepiece puts a distinctive twist on the minimalist Type 1, featuring a dial inspired by Arabic geometric patterns, echoing the aesthetic of the pair’s past collaborations. Initial thoughts This limited edition for the Dubai retailer resonates with me – and is arguably one of the most outstanding recent watches from Ressence – illustrating the potential to blend modern aesthetics while grounding the watch in the region. It manages to stand apart from Ressence’s minimalist watches, which have been iterated in a multitude of variants to date. The DX3 sticks to the outline of the standard Type 1 Round, but its standout feature lies in the copper-tone dial that’s embellished with captivating rose motifs reminiscent of Islamic art and architecture, and further accented with Super-Luminova that glows green. The Type 1 DX3 retails for CHF23,600, will be limited to merely 35 pieces and accompanied by a copy of Arts & Crafts in Motion, the brand’s first book that’s published jointly with Seddiqi. Considering the dial decoration, this undeniably presents a more alluring proposition in contrast to the standard production models. However one can hope that Ressence will maintain the exclusivity of this design and refrain from replicating it later on. A cloisonné dial with Arabic patterns The DX3...

Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris I Actually Buy After Nov 17, 2023

Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy

After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range Worn & Wound
Seiko Has Announced Nov 16, 2023

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range

While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide.  The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...

Seiko Rings in a Major Anniversary (Really, This is a Big One) with a Recreation of their Very First Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Seiko Rings Nov 15, 2023

Seiko Rings in a Major Anniversary (Really, This is a Big One) with a Recreation of their Very First Wristwatch

We joke around here quite a bit about every year being an anniversary for something. Watch brands have never been shy about celebrating what most of the outside world would consider somewhat inconsequential milestones. Of course, hobbies like ours are built on obsessing over the inconsequential, so it makes a lot of sense at the end of the day. Sometimes, though, there’s a truly significant anniversary that everyone can get behind, and you better believe watch brands aren’t going to ignore those. To that point, next year marks the 100th anniversary of the Seiko brand, a pretty big deal if there ever was one. We’re just weeks away from the calendar changing over, and Seiko has taken the opportunity to get the celebration started a little early.  Seiko, to be clear, has a complicated history that starts before the name “Seiko” was ever used on a watch, so what we’re celebrating here is the 100 year anniversary of the first time that branding was used on a wristwatch. We’re quite certain that Seiko will have an entire lineup of limited and special editions to celebrate the milestone, but the first out of the gate is the entry seen here from the Presage collection, a tribute to that very first wristwatch from 1924.  Seiko is no stranger to dealing with their past, and they’ve taken many approaches over the years in interpreting historic references. The new Seiko Presage Kintaro Hattori Limited Edition (reference SPB441) is effectively a recreation of the orig...

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000 Worn & Wound
Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision Nov 15, 2023

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000

Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...

The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Nov 15, 2023

The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260

Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands. Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways. It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740. The ref. 5260/1455R-001 Initial thoughts I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater...

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo could nearly break Nov 14, 2023

A new Kurono Chronograph Shows How the Brand Develops New Refinements with Each Release

There was a time not too long ago when news of a new watch from Kurono Tokyo could nearly break the internet. OK, that’s an exaggeration, but as the brand was building up a head of steam, it felt like loads of hype accompanied every new announcement. This was the peak of pandemic era watch speculation, and Kurono was in the middle of it. Over time, the frenzy has cooled and Kurono announcements are no longer the object of such intense scrutiny. I get the sense that Hajime Asaoka and his team are just fine with that – this is a brand that has instituted layers of “anti flipping” safeguards to their ordering process, after all. But a curious thing is happening: as the hysteria for Kurono’s limited editions has waned, the watches themselves seem to be getting better. Not just in terms of their aesthetics (that’s a matter of opinion, of course) but in the way they’re made and their ergonomics. It would be incredibly easy for Kurono to just keep cranking out new colorways, but every new release is indicative of subtle refinements to the brand’s approach, applying new techniques with every watch.  Their latest, the Chronograph 3 “Hisui”, is a great example of the way the brand has made little changes and continues to experiment while still hewing close to what has become a distinct house style. Kurono’s chronographs have evolved into colorful “sector” designs over the years, and this example has what I think is a very appealing mint green colorway that...

IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Nov 13, 2023

IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection

When we think of IWC chronographs, their series of Pilot’s Watch Chronographs are probably what comes immediately to our minds. There is an absolutely dizzying selection of chronographs across the Pilot collection, and the references go back years. Today, IWC unveils what they are referring to as “Performance Chronographs” that are technically (and somewhat weirdly, I have to say) still part of the Pilot lineup, but have a more motorsport forward focus. The new chronos seen here follow watches released in the past as part of their partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, but have some aesthetic and design tweaks that make them feel a bit more road ready. While the AMG Petronas Pilot’s Watch Chronograph was basically a new colorway in a titanium case, the Performance Chronographs see additional updates to the dial that distinguish it from other watches in IWC’s Pilot space, which begs the question: why call these “Pilot” watches at all?  What we have here are two new references, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG, and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. Both are built on IWC’s popular 41mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph case, with the former in titanium, and the latter the brand’s proprietary Ceratanium alloy. On the surface, the broad strokes here are familiar, but when you get into the granular details, some new features emerge. Most notably, these dials have a glossy fi...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Planet Omega in NYC, NASA Debuts their Streaming Platform, and Auctions Go Mainstream Worn & Wound
Omega Nov 11, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Planet Omega in NYC, NASA Debuts their Streaming Platform, and Auctions Go Mainstream

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Planet Omega Comes to NYC This week, Omega is opening their Planet Omega exhibition in New York’s Chelsea neighborhood. The exhibition brings some of the brand’s incredible museum pieces to the US, and places them alongside a curation of their modern collection, including special editions like the Planet Ocean 6000M Ultra Deep and the gem set Canopus gold Seamaster 300 celebrating 60 years of James Bond (there are also screen worn Seamasters from the Bond films on display). The exhibition is an immersive experience in the brand, and offers a decent primer of their history in film and sport, but there are also historic models on display in their own space.  A small selection of museum pieces sits next to the main exhibition, and features watches worn by Elvis Presely, John F. Kennedy, and Walter Schirra’s flown CK2998, the first Omega to be worn in space on board the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission. The history is palpable and these watches are a small glimpse into the treasures within Omega’s museum located in their home town of Biel/Bienne, Switzerland (a place well worth the visit). ...