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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing Apr 12, 2022

The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition

When a compact and classically dimensioned watch is debuted, a tiny-wrister bat signal is lit high in the sky for me to rush and cover it. Look, in journalism we have to remain objective, but this release hits home for me on a personal level and, based on your comments on social media, for many … ContinuedThe post The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Apr 12, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”

Founded in 2017, French brand Baltic quickly found success with its affordable, retro watches. The brand is now celebrating its fifth anniversary with a few commemorative editions in the pipeline, the first being the Aquascaphe Dual-Crown “5th Anniversary”, a retro “Super Compressor” style dive watch dressed up in streetwear colours of the 1990s, the decade during which the thirty-something founders of the brand grew up. Initial thoughts A micro-brand that got its start via crowdfunding, Baltic’s growth is a testament to its commercially-sensible products. Its watches are amongst the best propositions when it comes to retro watches. Baltic’s watches are all eminently affordable, with just enough details to give them a tiny bit more appeal than their prices would suggest. By the same token, the Dual-Crown is an appealing watch. Compact and affordable, the Dual-Crown was only available in muted colours to date. In fact, Baltic hasn’t launched a special edition of the model to date (and the brand does a lot of special editions), making the anniversary model unusual. The anniversary model continues where the original Dual-Crown left off, which is colour, or lack thereof. For anyone who liked the original but wanted something more lively, this is it. The anniversary Dual-Crown is only differs from the standard model in subtle ways, perhaps too subtle. As a result it does not have the strongly coherent aesthetic of Baltic’s other watches, which are clearly an...

IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic Apr 12, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around

Even if you’ve only been into watches for a short amount of time, the chances are pretty high that you’ve heard about the Hamilton Khaki Field. With 100 years experience of making watches for the military, Hamilton certainly know how to make an attractive, capable field watch that can handle everything from survival situations to … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 11, 2022

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm

Distinctive for its slide-rule bezel, the Navitimer is synonymous with Breitling. Having been in near continuous production since its introduction 70 years ago, the Navitimer has been offered in a bewildering array of iterations, but the 2022 Navitimer B01 returns to the roots of the model with a vintage-inspired design, but livened up with bright, metallic dials. Initial thoughts If you already like the Navitimer, the 2022 version is an appealing proposition. It’s essentially the traditional Navitimer design with Breitling’s in-house chronograph movement that has an excellent construction. The model is consistently priced given the in-house movement, while the design has enough vintage elements to give it a classic Navitimer feel. The dial colours, however, are modern, so this avoids being a vintage remake (which Breitling has done enough of). Of the three sizes, the 41 mm is identical to the vintage original, so it’s probably the perfect size. The 43 mm is probably still acceptable on most wrists, but the 46 mm will be enormous. If there is to something to criticise it is probably the wide range of models – two case metals, three case sizes, and a dozen or so dial types, though not every dial is available in every size. The number of choices feel too ambitious and confusing for a launch of a new model. Throwback design The new Navitimer is the first redesign of the model since current chief executive Georges Kern took the helm of Breitling in 2017. Unsurprisingly...

Watches And Wonders 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The World’s Biggest – And Now Only – International Watch Fair In Switzerland (Photofest!) Quill & Pad
Apr 10, 2022

Watches And Wonders 2022 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The World’s Biggest – And Now Only – International Watch Fair In Switzerland (Photofest!)

Watches and Wonders 2022 (previously SIHH) recently took place in Geneva. It is an invite-only event for retailers, journalists, and collectors. According to the fair organizers, nearly 22,000 unique visitors (including almost 1,000 journalists) attended. But enough about that, let’s get to what you’re here for: our unblemished comments on the watches we saw, which you can find right here!

Meet the team! The live video from a watch fair that YouTube has been waiting for… Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2022

Meet the team! The live video from a watch fair that YouTube has been waiting for…

It’s fair to say we don’t get everything right, all the time. One video I properly botched was in February last year. It was billed as a “meet the team” video. But in reality, it was me talking about the team, on their behalf. Most commenters were positive enough about the broad message: that you could start … ContinuedThe post Meet the team! The live video from a watch fair that YouTube has been waiting for… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Apr 6, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone Apr 4, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price

In case you haven’t received the memo, stainless-steel, integrated-bracelet watches are white-hot. Scratch that: more like a Texas-sized asteroid flying straight into the centre of the sun-hot. Over the past several years, models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone from finely crafted-yet-anachronistic curiosities of ‘70s watch history, to the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Model Thin: Piaget Tribute To The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch Quill & Pad
Piaget Tribute Apr 3, 2022

Model Thin: Piaget Tribute To The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch

Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Concept unique piece introduced at Watches and Wonders 2022 is nothing if not contemporary in its construction, but it is also an ode to history, telling the story of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in notable detail, the watch that was for several years the thinnest mechanical in the world. Nancy Olson takes a look at this world record-setting ultra-thin marvel.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S

Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...