Hodinkee
In-Depth: Why We Should All Be Paying More Attention To Vintage Movado
A spotlight on the storied Swiss brand and how it could better harness its heritage today.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Craft is Everywhere: How Statera Brought Old World Watchmaking to Brazil
When I first met Rafael Guimarães a few months ago, Statera hadn’t crossed my radar in a big way. The small brand, which has a fair claim to being the first watch brand born and built in Brazil, had already sold through a few production runs of nice-looking watches, but the brand had yet to make a real splash or to break out from the typical microbrand mold. Their first few releases certainly showed evidence of an eye for quality and detail, but for Rafael and his longtime friend and co-founder Antonio Almir dos Santos Neto (the two have known each other since they were five), it wasn’t enough. “For the first watch, the ST01, we made the design, and then the watch was fabricated in France… it was more like a [proof of concept] to see if we are able to sell watches,” Rafael explained. The obvious next step was to turn inward, to move away from external manufacturing and create what would be (and now is) the first independent watch not only conceived in Brazil, but made there as well. The result is the ST02 Esmalte Grand Feu, a handsome take on the everyday watch born out of a unique perspective paired with a generation’s worth of accumulated knowledge. How We Learn The path to the ST02 was neither short nor simple. Reaching the next level when you live and work in a part of the world with no history of watchmaking isn’t easy, and it’s not made any easier by Brazil’s restrictive tax structure. “We are fascinated by métier d’art. and we are fascinated ...
Monochrome
Recap - The Best Pilot’s Watches of 2024
The Pilot’s Watch has always been one of the most popular types of watches, and for good reason. The utilitarian nature of the aviator watch lends itself perfectly to everyday life, thanks to excellent legibility (often), striking looks and robust construction. This year is no exception, as plenty of very cool new pilot watches entered […]
SJX Watches
Year in Review: Eight Predictions for 2025
Twenty twenty-five will be shaped by several factors, ranging from major anniversaries for a trio of important high horology brands, to economic reality where the slowdown in demand will reshape retail channels (and already led one watch brand to go bust). And the coming year will also see the still-unknowable Rolex strategy unfold, which might happen under the radar but will definitely be interesting. Big watches for a big year Next year will be a milestone for trio of important brands. Audemars Piguet (AP), Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin (VC) will all mark significant anniversaries: 150 years at AP, 250 years of Breguet, and 270 years for VC. This implies some major timepieces or even mechanical objects are on the way. Such watches are practically convention as landmark anniversaries are often platforms for brands to launch major watches. Some of the most complicated watches in contemporary watchmaking were anniversary creations – Patek Philippe marked 150 years with the Calibre 89, and then 175 years with the Grandmaster Chime. The Patek Philippe Calibre 89 launched in 1989 for its 150th anniversary. Image – Patek Philippe Museum In 2005, when VC marked its 250th year, it launched the Tour de l’Ile, which was the most complicated wristwatch in the world at the time, and also the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction that year. With that in mind, VC might be working on something that lives up to its status as a maker of haute horlogerie complications. The Vac...
Fratello
Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel
One perk of being a writer in this industry is the opportunity to wear some nice and sometimes exquisite watches. They don’t always have to be expensive watches to make an impact. For example, I remember trying the new Swatch What If Break Free collection a few months ago. Despite it being so far from […] Visit Long-Term Review: One Month With The Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 In Steel to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
My Year in Watches: It Was All About the Indies
My year in watches began in a fog of Covid that led to the purchase of a James Lamb Origin Series, an acquisition that set the tone for the rest of the year in both how my own watch collection would continue to take shape, and in how I approached my role at Worn & Wound. The theme of this year, for me, has really been brewing for the last several, but 2024 was when I really began to hone in on the importance of independent watch brands across the entire spectrum of the watch landscape, and independence in our hobby and in watch media. When I purchased the James Lamb, I made no official declarations or formal decisions about shutting out big brand purchases for the remainder of the year, but in my head the idea had been taking shape for some time. Conversations with colleagues and other watch enthusiasts had led me to the conclusion that while big luxury brands are certainly capable of making very high quality watches that are desirable and objectively “good,” they had come to feel a bit stale, almost sterile, in comparison to watches like the James Lamb, which seemed born out of a burst of creativity. It was also impossible not to notice the traditional microbrand scene growing by leaps and bounds, with many brands offering bits of real craft and flourishes of genuine watchmaking inspiration at a truly approachable price point. Why, I wondered, would anyone pay even more than I paid for my Origin Series for a watch made from the Swiss equivalent of a cookie cutter? ...
Time+Tide
How Clare Smyth turns humble, everyday ingredients into something special
We get the chance to discover the intention behind Smyth's use of ingredients, and of course manage to tie watches into the story.The post How Clare Smyth turns humble, everyday ingredients into something special appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024
The word I keep reading to describe the watch industry in 2024 is “conservative.” There is certainly a case to be made for that view (and my colleague Bilal Khan does so quite eloquently in yesterday’s article), but there is also, I feel, ample evidence of the industry’s ongoing (and, to my mind, essential) devotion to doing new things on the technical side. In this day and age, with the watch business so diversified, so international, and so independent of one another in their schedule of releasing new products (the Spring windfall that is Watches & Wonders Geneva notwithstanding), it can be easy to overlook these innovations when you’re trying to tie up the watchmaking year in a neat bow. Of course, every watch brand has its own approach. Sometimes it’s about setting records (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget); sometimes it's about elevating a brand’s repertoire to the next tier of complexity (Breitling, TAG Heuer); often, it’s just about taking a fresh approach, or adding a clever twist, to existing complications (Nomos, Swatch). For those who may have missed them or even forgotten about them, here are the technical innovations in the horological world — major and minor — that I found worthy of attention in 2024. Ball Model M Roadmaster A With the Roadmaster M Model A, Ball Watch introduces a mechanical alarm function to its predominantly rugged, tool-oriented lineup for the first time. But it’s not just any mechanical alarm function but an “Alarm-Matic...
Time+Tide
The three watches Pietro wore most in 2024 are…
I've got to try on lots of watches this year for taking photos and reviews, but only a couple have some real wrist time.The post The three watches Pietro wore most in 2024 are… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm
It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...
Worn & Wound
The Worn & Wound+ Community Picks their Favorite Watches of 2024
It’s been a great year over on Worn & Wound+, our dedicated Slack channel for Worn & Wound readers, and watch and gear enthusiasts of all kinds. At the moment, we have over 1,000 people from all over the world in our Slack channel talking about watches and many, many other topics. There are dedicated channels to discuss EDC and gear, movies and television, photography, and more. There’s a marketplace channel where members can safely buy and sell watches, and there are channels where members can arrange local in-person or virtual watch meetups. It’s also, of course, a great place get insider info on deals from the Windup Watch Shop – you never know what watches might turn up for sale in the Slack channel before they’re made available anywhere else. All that said, it’s the great watch discussions that are really at the heart of Worn & Wound+, so as the year draws to a close, we thought we’d ask members of the Worn & Wound+ community to tell us about some of their favorite new releases of the year. And if you’re still not signed up for Worn & Wound+, be sure to hit this link and check it out. It’s completely free, and we’d love to see you join the community. Andrew Iveagh – Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” As a long time Tudor stan, it pains me to say my favorite of 2024 was the Omega Speedmaster FOIS. Between the reduced size, the blue gray dial, and the tan/fauxtina lume, it’s a vintage inspired lover’s dream. I’m usually a dive/g...
Deployant
Dear Santa: Peter makes his wishlist for 2024
And now, Peter makes his wishlist. This year, is an aspirational year for our veteran collector. And is what he wrote to Santa Claus for this year.
Time+Tide
Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024
Cartier's star has continued to rise in 2024, with a mix of quirky complications, vintage reissues and fun new sizes for classic designs.The post Our favourite Cartier watches of 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Experiencing Car Week Through The Lens Of Rolex
Cars, watches, and everything in between.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Doxa Sub 200T
Smaller, more options, and... less money?
Quill & Pad
Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch Owner Review: The Good, The Bad, The Complicated
The Omega x Swatch Speedmaster MoonWatch was one of the biggest product launches of the decade. Raman Kalra eventually managed to get his hands on one and shares his thoughts here.
WatchAdvice
The Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Porter Is A Watch That Will Turn Heads
Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique. Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...
Fratello
Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session
Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Complications
Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking
Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Collector's Guide To The Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513
The most classic of Submariners, and why now's a good time to pay attention to this beloved reference.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster!
Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - A Selection of the Very Best Artistic Dials We’ve Seen this Year
They say the face of a watch can be regarded as a canvas. A canvas to display time first and foremost, but in some watches, it is also a backdrop for a discerning and mesmerising complication like a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar indication. But what if you would take the dial as a canvas […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black
Excelsior Park re-entered the market with a boom in 2021. The brand released many models, created limited editions and one-offs, and then retreated until this year. This past summer, after a few years of hibernation, EP returned with a time-only model, the 884-SI. The watch received positive reviews for its appearance and competitive price. Now […] Visit Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Diving with the Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer
When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.
Time+Tide
Discovering French watch brands, partie deux: Baltic, Yema, Sartory-Billard, Pequignet
Back for the second instalment of The Lineup, Marcus and Zach discover more French watch brands they think you should know about.The post Discovering French watch brands, partie deux: Baltic, Yema, Sartory-Billard, Pequignet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - A Once-in-a-Lifetime Chance To Own a 1954 Mercedes-Benz W196R Stromlinienwagen
Mercedes-Benz and racing go hand-in-hand. After all, it’s one of the most successful manufacturers in both pre-war Grand Prix, post-war Formula 1 and Endurance Racing, birthing many legendary cars. From the very early days of motor racing, the brand has been active in all sorts of categories. It won the 1914 French Grand Prix with […]
Time+Tide
Chopard x Art in Time debut Alpine Eagle His & Hers Chameleon Set
Don't get bogged down by the traditional "his & hers" nomenclature - the set is comprised of 41mm and 36mm models.The post Chopard x Art in Time debut Alpine Eagle His & Hers Chameleon Set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition
Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black […] Visit Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.