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Results for NOS (New Old Stock)

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Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 19, 2020

Focus On Materials: Primer On The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking – Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001

Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...

Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2 Time+Tide
Unimatic Sep 17, 2020

Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2

Unimatic’s tough Italian exterior gets the touch of Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro in a marriage of crisp white Cerakote™ and extreme minimalism. Unimatic, based in Milan, has a strong reputation for their no-nonsense tough 40mm tool watches, with their bold cases and stubby-perfect 49mm lug-to-lug length. With the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro they have managed … ContinuedThe post Get ready, one more sleep till you can order the ultimate unisex summer watch, the Unimatic x Mihara Yasuhiro U1-MY2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HYT Introduces the Flow SJX Watches
HYT Sep 17, 2020

HYT Introduces the Flow

A pioneer in the hydro-mechanical display of time – where time is indicated by liquid in tubes – HYT has furthered its novel time display by lighting up the liquid display. Not merely with luminescent paint as is convention, but with dynamo-powered LEDs. First installed in the H4 of 2016, the illuminated-liquid display now returns with the sleek HYT Flow. Contained in a rounded, almost organic case with sweeping lines on the dial, the Flow features an LED at six o’clock. It launches with two versions: the simpler one having a a light ring around the aperture at six, and the other – which is more lavish and interesting – is equipped with lights underneath a dome set with baguette diamonds. Initial thoughts While LED lighting is not new, it remains the highlight. It is definitely not something conceived for functionality and legibility in the dark, but instead as a complication with brilliant visual appeal. The diamond-set variant, in particular, offers a stunning light show thanks to the highly refractive and reflective nature of the gemstone – albeit at a steep price of well over US$160,000. Functionally the Flow remains similar to its predecessors, but the entirety of the design has streamlined compared to the angular styling of the brand’s earliest watches. The case is rounded, with lines that flow, which is complement by the open-worked wave pattern on the dial. Crucial elements like the minute hand and power reserve indicator are on the dial, while the t...

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Legendary, Royal Breguet Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Breguet Pocket Watches Sotheby’s watch Sep 15, 2020

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Legendary, Royal Breguet Pocket Watches

Sotheby’s watch auction at the end of October will be headlined by a trio of historically important and highly complicated Breguet pocket watches that were all once owned by royalty, and then part of the David Salomons Breguet collection. The top lot will unquestionably be Breguet no. 2788, nicknamed “The Prince Regent’s Resonance”, an experimental 1818 watch with twin balance wheels operating on the principle of resonance. [Update October 27, 2020: The sale of watches from The Museum for Islamic Art will be postponed until sometime in November 2020, due to the museum having decided to rethink the deaccessioning of part of its collection.] The twin balance wheels of Breguet no. 2788 Given their hallowed provenance, the trio of Breguet watches being offered for sale is surprising, but perhaps in keeping with the times. Despite the golden age of pocket watch collecting having seemingly come to an end – or perhaps because of it – several important pocket watches have sold well in the last two years. Amongst the recent highlights is one of the oldest watches known, the 369-year old Cremsdorff preserved in mint condition, and the 20th century masterpiece by George Daniels. The majority of those came from the massive collection put together by the late Erivan Haub, a supermarket tycoon who was perhaps the most important collector of pocket watches in his day. Sotheby’s upcoming London auction, however, has a handful of exceptionally important pocket watches from...

Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark? Quill & Pad
Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref 765 Sep 11, 2020

Breitling Vintage-Inspired AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II, and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley: Do They Hit The Mark?

With no travel for GaryG over the last COVID-19-restricted months, he has been grateful for opportunities to add variety by handling some of this year’s new watches. And recently Breitling lent Gary three of its new re-edition watches. He shares his thoughts and stunning photos of these new Breitling models here.

What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 126619LB Sep 11, 2020

What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold?

Now that Rolex has released watches and ended that dreadful rumour that they were sitting 2020 out, the important work begins. Nicknaming them. The one that has perhaps caused the most contention, is this one, the Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold.   We’re going to tell you everything you need to know about it … ContinuedThe post What nickname has Instagram settled on for the Rolex Submariner ref. 126619LB in white gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces Sep 10, 2020

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar

Long focused on affordable mechanical watches, Frederique Constant continued with its specialty after its acquisition by Japanese watchmaking giant Citizen. Now the Swiss brand has just revived its bestseller from two decades ago, the Highlife collection, which has been redesigned extensively. It’s a new watch in all but name – the revamped Highlife harks back to the integrated-strap of the original, but it is a design very much catered to today’s taste. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture The new Highlife collection debuts with three models that share the same tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet with quick-release pins. The most interesting watch of the trio is the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which is affordable despite its in-house movement and styling that’s reminiscent of more expensive watches. The other two models in the line up are simple automatics: one is time-only with an “Open Heart” dial revealing the balance wheel, and the other is a COSC-certified three-hander with date. Highlife Automatic COSC The Highlife Heart Beat Initial thoughts The Highlife manages to translate the look of high-end luxury-sports watches into an affordable watch by keeping a few design elements and simplifying everything. It is unavoidably derivative in style, but competently designed. So the 41 mm case is a simple affair with simple lines and surfaces, but dressed up with a polished, domed bezel. However, it avoids looking too plain even with t...

Adult Diaper Purchases Spike in Anticipation of Collectors Sh**ting Themselves for Latest Rolex Reveal Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Reveal Sep 9, 2020

Adult Diaper Purchases Spike in Anticipation of Collectors Sh**ting Themselves for Latest Rolex Reveal

In the wake of COVID-19 preparation, America’s populace learned a valuable lesson in emergency preparedness; purchase all the toilet paper you can. With news that Rolex has been leaking updates for their latest releases. Enthusiasts everywhere are primed for soiling themselves. Read The Balance Cock Bugle for balanced horological news (probably).

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 9, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue

Relaunched in 2016 after a major revamp, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury-sports watch has since been expanded to include various complications, most notably the recent ultra-thin, skeleton perpetual calendar. The mix of a pink gold case and blue dial has been used extensive throughout the line, primarily on complicated models, but the fashionable combination has now been applied to the base model with the Overseas Self-winding in Pink Gold and Blue. Initial thoughts Blue dials have become the archetype for the luxury-sports watch, so the new watch is sticking to a well-established formula. The dial on the new Overseas is quite captivating, largely owing to the use of a brighter blue than usual. Also familiar is the combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, which creates a rich yet sporty look. The combination would be arguably be more appealing if it were applied to the ultra-thin model, which was once in the catalogue but is temporarily discontinued. Priced at a little over US$46,000, the Overseas in pink gold is a contestant in a highly competitive arena, with the primary rivals being the similarly-priced – but far more difficult to obtain – Nautilus and Royal Oak. The two rivals have a slightly longer history, but all of the watches offer similar value in terms of intrinsic quality; the Overseas is very good at what it does. Refined and modern The Overseas Self-Winding has all of the details that characterise the 2016 redesign that resulted in a cleane...

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe it also includes watches Sep 7, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction

Having debuted its first online watch auction earlier this year, Phillips returns with the second instalment, Intersect, once again offering a cross-category selection spanning watches, art, and jewellery. Made up of 110 lots – a third are watches – the auction is live from now until 6 pm (GMT+8) on September 14. While the line up naturally features the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, it also includes watches from independent brands like H. Moser & Cie., Daniel Roth, and Urwerk, as well as a notably artisanal pair if Chopard L.U.C watches decorated with maki-e. Some highlights of the sales are included below, and the full catalogue is available here. [Full disclosure: Lots 97 and 98 were consigned by our founder SJX.] Lot 15 – Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 Having been overshadowing by its successor with a ceramic bezel (and other more recent sports models), the Daytona ref. 116520 is relatively good value in the world of Rolex sports watches. Interestingly, the ref. 116520 was the first Daytona to boast the in-house cal. 4130, and also the last to have a stainless steel bezel. The present watch is offered in well-preserved, “full set” condition, with an unusual extra – the Rolex Japan sticker on the case back once found only on Rolex watches sold in the country. It has an estimate of HK$94,000-190,000, or about US$12,100-24,400. Lot 30 – Urwerk UR-202 in white gold A pioneer in avant-garde watchmaking best known for its atypical displays of time, Ur...

Grand Seiko introduces the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon Movement SJX Watches
Grand Seiko introduces Sep 4, 2020

Grand Seiko introduces the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon Movement

A tourbillon is not uncharted waters for Seiko, as evidenced by the Credor Fugaku Tourbillon of 2016. The extremely rare, and modestly unattractive, Fugaku was something of a statement, as much about its ornate case and dial as the mechanics. Now an independent brand after being spun off from its parent, Grand Seiko has just announced a movement that squarely emphasises on timekeeping, the T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon. Announced as a concept movement – with no plans for commercialisation publicly revealed – the movement is Grand Seiko’s first equipped with a tourbillon, and also marks the first time Seiko or any of its brands is utilising a constant-force mechanism. The T0 disassembled Initial thoughts It is not often Grand Seiko launches a new and truly novel movement; this year has seen a few. The recent 9RA5 Spring Drive and the 9SA5 Hi-Beat automatic are interesting and practical movements that will be found in future models. On the other hand, the T0 tourbillon stakes a claim of technical prowess oriented rather than practicality, a claim bolstered by the remontoir constant-force mechanism integrated in the tourbillon cage. While Grand Seiko’s integrated remontoir constructed is patented, this is not exactly novel. Precedents in the watches of IWC and Andreas Strehler, for instance. While each of these executed the idea of an integrated constant force differently, all share the common approach of a one-second remontoir. In short, the Grand Seiko construc...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market Time+Tide
Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be Aug 23, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market

Yes, it’s a very bold opening line. In fact, this is no boldr (sorry!) than a simple statement of the facts, should you sum up the parts, starting with a titanium watch with 200m water resistance for under $300 USD including shipping. Boldr Supply Co. is an established microbrand with five watch lines, and a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Boldr Venture Sandstorm might be the best value titanium watch on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Aug 20, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V

Introduced five decades ago, the Seiko 5 is much loved for its affordability and infinite variety. Last year Seiko gave the Seiko 5 Sports a complete revamp, giving it a diver “lite” look. Now the redesigned watch is the base for the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V, a limited-edition collection that’s a tribute to the iconic one-on-one fighting video game developed by Japanese game maker Capcom. Each of the six watches in the line up is inspired by character from Street Fighter, one of the bestselling games in history, with some 45 million units sold to date and a major part of growing up in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Essentially variants of the same watch with different dials and bezels, the Street Fighter editions have the same case as the regular production model, which means 42.5 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick, and a 100 m depth rating. While it sounds large, the watch is more wearable that the diameter suggests thanks to the short lug-to-lug span at 46 mm. Also identical is the 4R36 movement and lack of a screw-in crown, which feels counterintuitive on a sports watch, though strictly speaking there is no practical difference between the two in everyday use. However, the similarities stop there. The new limited editions escalate the fun factor with creative dial designs and bright colours. But the price has also increased steeply – the Street Fighter editions cost almost twice as much as the standard model – no doubt due to the royalties due to the game’s d...

Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions just released, and they are wild – preorder here Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports x STREET Aug 18, 2020

Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions just released, and they are wild – preorder here

I was always a Blanka man. There was something about the key combination to make him bring the voltage that came naturally to me. That same charge of electricity will be running through Seiko fans the world over with the news that Seiko has just released a Seiko 5 Sports collection dedicated to Street Fighter, … ContinuedThe post Seiko 5 Sports x STREET FIGHTER V Editions just released, and they are wild – preorder here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Elvis Is In The Building: In Honor Of The King And His Watches – Reprise Quill & Pad
Hamilton Ventura Aug 16, 2020

Elvis Is In The Building: In Honor Of The King And His Watches – Reprise

Elvis Presley died on August 16, 1977. This was a day of soulful heartbreak for Elizabeth Doerr, who knew she would sorely miss his voice. What she didn't know back then was that Elvis owned a number of wristwatches, good ones. Here Elizabeth takes a peek at some of the watches he’s owned as well as a special watch he helped make famous: the Hamilton Ventura.

Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models Time+Tide
Seiko answer people’s prayers Aug 9, 2020

Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models

Say what you will, but there are few cooler mods you can make to a stainless steel sports watch than removing its bezel … just ask Marlon Brando. It’s obviously a sentiment that Seiko agrees with, as 2020 has seen them release no fewer than 11 new iterations of its iconic 5 Sports model without … ContinuedThe post Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget Introduces the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue SJX Watches
Bulgari Aug 7, 2020

Piaget Introduces the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue

To commemorate the 60th anniversary of its first extra-thin wristwatch that was launched in 1957, Piaget launched a series of anniversary watches in 2017, including the flagship Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry watch, powered by the cal. 670P caliber that’s a mere 4.6mm tall. Piaget has since continued the series with additional variants featuring exotic dial materials, such as last year’s Altiplano Thin Meteorite. And now Piaget unveils the Altiplano Tourbillon Infinite Blue, a trio of limited-edition, high jewellery tourbillon wristwatches decorated with the infinity symbol rendered in diamonds. Initial Thoughts The race to produce the thinnest wristwatch ever reached its zenith in the 1970s and 1980s, after which tastes shifted in the new century towards ever-larger watches, particularly with the rise of luxury-sports watches. But some watchmakers, notably Bulgari and Piaget, have continued to slim their watches. In that context, the Tourbillon Infinite Blue does not do anything revolutionary, but take takes a tried-and-true formula and elaborates on it with a high level of execution. Baguette diamonds on the bezel and dial, brilliant-cut diamonds on the case band and lugs of the Ref. G0A45044 Like many other modern-day extra-thin watches, the largish diameter of 41 mm is necessitated by the movement’s architecture, which sees the components are spread out, instead of stacked up as in a conventional movement. The size and thinness of the bezel means that the w...

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Bronze Aug 6, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy

To even the most casual Time+Tide reader, the Rado Captain Cook is likely to be a known quantity. A strong, stainless steel, vintage-inspired design, backed up by a reliable modern movement in a range of sizes … all true, but that’s no longer the extent of it. For the first time, we can now add … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.