Hodinkee
Hands-On: Everything You Need To Know About The Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour (And More)
We take a look at the surprising new release, its competition, and the future of something built on the past.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch
There are certain “easy wins” with watch enthusiasts that brands rely on. Put a line of red text on a black dial diver, and you’ll get some smiles. Add a micro-adjust to your clasp, and you’ll avoid some angry emails. Drill your lugs, and… well, I at least will be excited. And when it comes to chronographs, a sure-fire way to get some attention is to invert your sub-dials. Yep, though it has been done countless times, “panda” dials still get the thumbs-up from us nerds. So, it was no surprise that the recently released “Black and White” Speedmasters (which, to those of us from NYC, brings to mind a certain iconic cookie before a watch dial) were received with much excitement. Take one of the most celebrated watches in production, give it a dial treatment that is hard to mess up, and, unsurprisingly, you have a hit. Well done, Omega. Yeah, the Speedmaster Black and White is very nice looking To make matters more exciting, despite the many, many, many versions of Speedmasters over the years, Pandas are not common among them. I’m no Speedy scholar, so my internal reference archive isn’t complete, but having been the occasional Speedy customer, I know that pandas were few and far between, usually limited, or precious metal, and rarely a “reverse” or “evil” panda (white sub-dial on a black surface) in form. That this new model is available in steel and not limited actually makes them special, by not being special. The dilemma, if you can call it th...
WatchAdvice
Is The Baume & Mercier Clifton The Perfect Gentleman’s Watch? (Hands-On)
Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked
Perpetual calendars are, without a doubt, an integral part of Audemars Piguet’s history, and the Royal Oak has carried its strand very convincingly since 1984. With the introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked powered by the new Calibre 7139, AP signals a clear generational shift. Released alongside a Code 11.59 counterpart, which […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team
Breitling marks its entry into Formula 1 with a limited edition titanium Navitimer with Aston Martin accents and details.
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A Beautiful & Affordable Sector Dial Watch with a Swiss Hand Wound - Longines for less
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Having celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2025, Audemars Piguet (AP) has kicked off 2026 with a slate of new models, including one of the most complicated watches in its history. But it was a simpler watch that that generated the most buzz at the glamorous launch event in the Swiss alps: the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, which is both a new watch and the beginning of a new collection that replaces the [Re]master series. The Neo Frame is a regular production wristwatch in 18k rose gold inspired by the Pre-model 1271, a historical AP reference from 1929. Though rooted in the Art Deco era, the Neo Frame is an eminently modern watch with a novel case and dial construction and the brand’s latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts The name Audemars Piguet is nearly synonymous with that of its signature product, the Royal Oak. While many brands would probably trade their entire catalogues to have a single hit like the Royal Oak, AP has sought to diversify its product line up with the introduction of collections like the Code 11.59 and the short-lived [Re]master series. Despite these efforts, the Royal Oak family remains AP’s commercial engine, making the introduction of a new collection, anchored by a rectangular jumping hours watch, especially notable. The jumping hours complication seems to be enjoying renewed interest among collectors, which makes release of the Neo Frame feel timely. But up close and on the wrist, it doesn’t look or feel like anything else on t...
SJX Watches
Hands On: TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides
One of the most talked-about watches of this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer reimagines Heuer’s quirky midecentury tide-tracker in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its warm hues and vibrant teal accents, the Seafarer captures much of the charm of the original while incorporating most (if not all) of the brand’s latest technical upgrades. Initial thoughts The Carrera Seafarer belongs to the tradition of historical reissues, in the same vein as watches like the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” and Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 that give new life to past icons. While these reruns can get tiring, there continue to be instances in which the original model has become too iconic to not be given another go. Such is the case with the Seafarer, a quirky creation from the 1940s originally sold under the Abercrombie & Fitch name, which was, at the time, a premium sporting goods retailer trusted by the likes of Ernest Hemingway. Interestingly, the original was never a true commercial success, but its novel complication and vibrant colourways have since made it highly collectible in recent years. Much like early Rolex Daytonas, the original Seafarers were under appreciated in their time but later gained a niche following. Dressed in the modern Carrera Glassbox case, the Seafarer shines with its champagne-coloured dial, blocky typeface and playful chromatics. Thankfully the reissue stays true to the original’s purpos...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon Titanium Red Dial
Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project
Following collaborations with Rexhep Rexhepi and Kari Voutilainen, Louis Vuittion turns to De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet for its biggest independent collaboration to date, both literally and figuratively. The release spans two timekeepers - the first is the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius, a heat-blued titanium wristwatch that can be wound and set by the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius, an ambitious métiers d’art Sympathique clock. Initial thoughts Having worked on Sympathique clocks for Breguet during his spell at Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet revisits the concept on his own terms. De Bethune is one of the few independent brands with its own clockmaking workshop, which is a testament to Mr Flageollet’s experience gained at THA. The Sympathique clock is finely wrought, with several charming artistic flourishes embodying De Bethune’s house style with a generous use of blued titanium. While this Sympathique arguably is a historical tribute rather than state-of-the art, it is nonetheless easier to use than its antecedents, with a simplified docking process that doesn’t require the watch’s strap to be removed. In terms of usability, this Sympathique is arguably the most advanced to date; moreover, both clocks can be paired with any of the watches in the series, an interchangeability underlining the precision of make that was absent in historical Sympathique clocks. Denis Flageollet at the launch event in Tokyo. The massive ornam...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Isotope Moonshot Chronograph “Terra Maris”
A uniquely bold sci-fi take on the idea of a sporty chronograph.
Video
Crisp Clean Swiss and Affordable the Hand Wound Excelsior Park EP 884-SI Dress Watch
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 And The Current State Of Reissues
A deeply faithful return of a late-1960s design opens up a wider conversation about reissues in 2026.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Featherweight Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon
Founded in 2021, Bianchet is a young independent brand based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, specialising in contemporary tonneau-shaped timepieces that merge advanced materials with architectural mechanics. The brand’s designs are rooted in the Golden Ratio (1.618), which influences the proportions of its cases, bridges, and even its rotors. Last year’s model B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Bühlmann Decompression 02 Is A Tool’s Tool In A World Of Wannabes
With an educational focus and unashamedly broad shoulders, the Decompression 02 is an uncommonly serious offering in the dive watch genre.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Speedmaster vs El Primero: Hands-On Review of Two Iconic Chronographs
Weeks of real wrist time settled the Omega Speedmaster vs Zenith El Primero debate. Find out which chronograph proved more livable long after the honeymoon phase faded.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer Pays Homage To The Past With A Solunar-Inspired Dial
Colors taken from the brand's first watch with a tide indicator grace the brand's first non-limited version of the modern Seafarer.
Video
The MOST EXPENSIVE Chinese watch I ever handled - Atelier Wen Perception - HAND MADE DIALl!!
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Combines A Conventional Display With Unconventional Information
Even the most normal-looking Urwerk is still incredibly unconventional.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Sleek, Flight-Ready Bremont Altitude Date
British watchmaking company Bremont has made some key changes in the last couple of years, not least bringing on a new CEO in 2023, Davide Cerrato (well known for releasing the Tudor Black Bay in 2012 and for working at Montblanc and Panerai). A new direction was revealed at Watches & Wonders 2024 with an updated logo and a broader […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold
A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Honeygold last year and it’s easily the brand’s most luxe sports watch. Presented end to end in 18k Honeygold, this Odysseus is impressively well made, impressively heavy, and impressively expensive. I recently got the chance to spend some time with one of the 100 pieces made, and it was certainly a good experience. Initial thoughts The Odysseus was never a pretty watch, and this isn’t more visually appealing than the titanium or steel version. The design doesn’t have the finesse of its rivals, most notably the Royal Oak or Nautilus. But the Odysseus does have tactile and intellectual appeal, and that translates into physical attraction. The Odysseus is impressive like many Lange watches are thanks to its build quality. In Honeygold it looks and feels even more luxurious. The warmth and weight of the metal give it greater appeal, in fact Honeygold gives this a large-yacht-on-the-Mediterranean type of feel that its counterparts in more common metals lack. Look and feel aside, this has all of the strengths and weakness of the earlier versions. Strengths include the quality of course, as well as good ergonomics, which matter more here because of the weight. One of the weaknesses is the clasp, which is practical and easy to operate, but a little too large for a sports watch that is also supposed to be elegant. With a price tag of US$110,000, the Odysseus Honeygold is very expensive for what it is, even by Lange standards. But wha...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On: New Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black And Gold
A new take on the classic ceramic DEFY Skyline Skeleton. Black ceramic meets a gold-toned, high-frequency movement for a watch that’s as technically impressive as it is visually striking. Modern, architectural, and unmistakably Zenith! What We Love Full black ceramic case and bracelet combined with the gold dial make it aesthetically appealing! The constant 1/10th of a second sub-counter showcases the complexity of the movement underneath. Quick strap change allows for easy change between a ceramic bracelet or rubber strap for daily versatility. What We Don’t Would’ve liked to see the minute track, but more subdued. In white, it can make the dial seem even busier. While the 1/10th of a second chronograph is great for aesthetics and show of technicality, it doesn’t serve a real purpose. Even though it’s a skeletonised dial, most of the El Primero 3620 SK movement is still closed off. Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The world of ceramic watches isn’t what it used to be a decade ago. Advances in materials and manufacturing mean that ceramic timepieces are no longer niche or fragile experiments, but a genuine part of watchmaking. While crafting bold colours in ceramic can present its own challenge, the more classic tones like black, white, or blue are becoming far more achievable, allowing brands to explore the world of ceramic not as a limited edition or one-offs, but as a refined material for e...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Comparing The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Black & White Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004 With The Rolex Daytona Ref. 126500LN
From case to bracelet and everything in-between, we go into the nitty-gritty on two of the best sporty chronographs between $10,000 and $20,000 dollars
Video
A German Made Dress Watch That Thinks it's a Sports Watch - Hand-wound with an Odd Shape
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date "Bullseye"
The new dial for one of Oris' most iconic models marks a strong execution at a decent price point.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Montre École Souscription by Young Indie Duo Hazemann & Monnin
The Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau has been nurturing an impressive wave of independent watchmakers, emerging with fresh visions and artisanal talent. In recent years, it has produced notable names such as Sylvain Pinaud, Théo Auffret, Rémy Cools, John-Mikaël Flaux, Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori, and many others. Today, we turn our attention to […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model. With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres. Initial thoughts The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist. The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement. But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Flying Hours in Steel, a Blend of Horology and Sportiness
Satellite hour displays are exciting because, apart from the lyrical mood, for most brands, except Urwerk, which made it a signature feature, they are a departure from the ordinary. They stand out from the core collections, reflecting the design, engineering effort and each brand’s specific interpretation of the wandering hours indication. In 2018, when H. […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025
As a watch enthusiast and a fan of classic motorsport (superficial, but still), the Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025 struck me immediately for the clear connection to the 1952 Grosser Werkmeister, the from-behind-the-Iron-Curtain, one-off East German-built racing roadster that inspired it. It´s amazing how Union Glashütte ties its themed design to […]
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