Deployant
Independent watchmakers to keep an eye out for 2024
We did a roundup article on up and coming independents to watch out for in 2020. We revisit the list. Who remains , who dropped out, and who are new.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Deployant
Worn & Wound
Our Favorite Watches Under $1,000
We’re less than a month from Watches & Wonders, which is a period of time when the watch world is focused mostly on high end luxury watches, often with eye watering price tags and a built-in inaccessibility. Of course, we enjoy discussing and covering those watches, but ahead of that time of year when things get well and truly crazy in the watch world, we thought we’d take a step back and ask our contributors to pick their favorite watches at a more accessible and welcoming price point. For under $1,000, there’s a ton of variety out there, and a curious watch collector can have just about any style of watch they want, from sports watches of all stripes, to contemporary design focused pieces, and even iconic vintage staples. The choices below reflect the enormous breadth of affordable watches available today, and they only scratch the surface. Let us know what you’d pick for $1,000 in the comments below. Zach Kazan For $1,000, watch collectors have a lot to choose from. The first task, I think, is deciding on what lane you want to travel in. Sports watch? Something more casual? Quartz or mechanical? Big brand or small? Vintage, vintage inspired, or totally contemporary? All of these things are possible, and represent open questions at $1,000 or less, which is exciting, and speaks to the overall health of the hobby at an affordable level. There are myriad ways to get into the watch world, or scratch an affordable itch regardless of how experienced you are. Person...
Worn & Wound
Level Up Your Daily Camera Carry Solution with the NOMATIC x Peter McKinnon Luma Camera Bag Collection
It’s hard to be in a big metropolis like New York City and not feel inspired to take photos. The sights you encounter day in and day out sometimes just need to be captured. We recently caught up with two photography enthusiasts for a photo walk through Lower Manhattan. Gabby and Jean are both creatives living in NYC who came to the hobby of photography at roughly the same time. They became pals through work connections and are both now doing more and more camera collecting and photography in their spare time, with more freelance opportunities as well. All of the sudden, what once was a hobby is quickly becoming a real passion and even a way to generate some additional income. Enter the new Luma Collection by NOMATIC x Peter McKinnon. NOMATIC has been developing high-quality, essential travel and carry solutions for content creators for a decade. Founded on the principle of enabling, innovating, and incorporating time-saving solutions right into each and every one of their products, they have refined their offerings into pro-level gear for life on the move. The Luma Collection by NOMATIC x Peter McKinnon is custom-designed specifically for hobbyists on the verge of turning pro. The post Level Up Your Daily Camera Carry Solution with the NOMATIC x Peter McKinnon Luma Camera Bag Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care?
In this installment of Back to Basics, we’ll dive into chronometers. What does this term mean, and why should it be relevant to you? If you are (relatively) new to the watch hobby, the word “chronometer” may be somewhat confusing. Technically, any object that measures (meter) time (chrono) is a chronometer, right? Then why do […] Visit Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care? to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum
Today, we bring news of a much-anticipated debut. The Fleming Series 1 is finally here, and we were able to go hands-on with a pre-production Tantalum model. This is a stunner in the truest sense, but I warn you that it isn’t an entry-level watch. This watch has an all-star cast behind it. Let’s take […] Visit Introducing: The Fleming Series 1 Tantalum to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 With An Integrated Bracelet
Back in the first half of 2023, Ollech & Wajs informed us that a successor to the 1973 OW 8000 was coming. Even renders were available, but we love the real deal and, when possible, like to wait for a production model before making a judgment. And it’s good that we did this time because, […] Visit Hands-On: The Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 With An Integrated Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue
Even without mentioning the name, if I tell you these watches have an all-polished 36 or 38.5mm case, Roman and Arabic numerals, a hand-wound movement, and colorful dials with a contrasting sub-seconds hand, you’ll probably already know what watches I’m talking about. The Nomos Club Campus has become quite an icon for the young Saxon […] Visit Nomos Gets Ready For A Colorful Spring - Introducing The Club Campus In Nonstop Red And Endless Blue to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01
Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account. Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...
Fratello
New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO
Sometimes, adding a dial color can shine a new light on a watch. Both H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have done just that. That’s why we’ll unpack both releases in one article. The first is the much-praised H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, and the second is the stunning MB&F; LM Perpetual Evo. […] Visit New Dials For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar And MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II, a Rare Combination of Worldtime and Alarm Functions
Operating out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for several years now, the brand Edouard Koehn carries four distinct collections. Of particular interest is the model introduced in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, blending two practical complications: world time and alarm functions. While several mechanical watches offer combinations of an alarm with a GMT […]
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT Espresso is a Seriously Cool Watch From… Texas!
Jack Mason is an up-and-coming microbrand with a growing portfolio of divers, chronographs and day/dates, and the latest Strat-o-Timer GMT is the most polished of the bunch. With a dive watch vibe and in-house regulation, it’s bold and stylish, with an accuracy rating well above the norm for the specific Miyota movement it uses. Of […]
Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Embraces Brutalism with the Pillow Watch
Maurice de Mauriac isn’t afraid to make a bold statement. And their latest release, the Pillow Watch, might be their boldest yet. Not because it’s overly-designed or flashy, but for the quiet confidence this collection possesses. The Pillow Watch is a set of three references (Black, Bronze, and Titanium), each with a cushion case design and a corresponding calf leather strap that showcases the exceptional craftsmanship and design philosophy of this Swiss brand. Drawing inspiration from the architectural movement of brutalism, the Pillow Watch possesses clean lines and a bold design. For those who love a cushion case, you can agree that it’s a design built on a bit of opposites: daring, but subtle; delicate; but strong. For a brand that has put out some pretty eye-catching designs lately, some might consider this a departure for Maurice de Mauriac; but I say it’s the opposite. The Pillow Watch is a natural evolution for the brand, eschewing the bells and whistles for something simple, timeless, and sophisticated. Coming in at 45mm, this is a watch with presence, made all the more so with its Fabian Schwaerzler-design dials. Designed with thick applications of Superluminova, it’s at once retro and modern. The minimalist dial, displaying only hours via large lume plots, underscores the brand’s commitment to restraint for this collection, ensuring the watch remains balanced in its design. The Pillow Watch runs on a La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement, designed b...
Teddy Baldassarre
Chiming Watches: 12 Exceptional Minute Repeaters, Alarms, Sonneries, a
Chiming watches represent one of the most coveted types of complicated watches in the world - despite the fact that they are also one of the most archaic and, in practical terms, obsolete. The most popular type is the minute repeater, which chimes the time audibly on demand; it was invented for pocket watches in the 18th and 19th Century as a practical method of alerting its wearer of the current time in the dark, in the era before electric lighting and luminous details on watch dials. Definitively regarded as more a luxury today than a tool, a minute repeater has an independent chiming mechanism with two small hammers striking coiled metal gongs, generally activated by a slide on the side of the case, to produce different tones for the hour, quarter hour, and minute. The most sophisticated of these chiming watches might also include a grande sonnerie, and/or petite sonnerie: the former perpetually strikes the hour every hour and the hour plus the quarter-hour at every quarter, without any need for the wearer to activate it with a slide; the latter strikes the hour every hour, and the quarter-hour (but not the hour) every quarter, also independently of any activation by the wearer. Sometimes the chiming functions are even coordinated with moving, elaborate dial animations called automata. Watches with chiming functions tend to be rather rare and almost always prodigiously expensive, but a handful of watchmakers have managed to create examples that are slightly less compl...
Monochrome
First Look - Chiming Time for the new Speake Marin Minute Repeater Carillon
Before chiming mechanisms appeared in miniaturised form inside table clocks and, eventually, pocket watches and wristwatches, our ancestors relied on the bells of clock towers to tell the time. Minute repeaters, which strike the hours, quarters and minutes on request, require extraordinary horological skill and a trained musical ear to create. Speake Marin’s latest watch, […]
Fratello
Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement
Back in 2022, I reviewed a couple of Yema’s Superman models, and I really liked the vintage vibes of the pointy lugs and the clean diver’s dial. The 39mm size is perfect for a wide variety of wrists, and I even thought the old-school bezel lock was charming. Unfortunately, I found the overall finishing and […] Visit Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Chinese New Year Watches - Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, And More
Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’ll focus on watches that celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year. Tomorrow is the start of the Year of the Dragon, which prompted many watch brands to release amazing limited-edition pieces depicting the animal that symbolizes luck, prosperity, and wisdom. The dragon is also an imperial icon that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Chinese New Year Watches - Featuring Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Blancpain, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Interview - Benjamin Comar, CEO of Piaget, on the Brand’s 150th Anniversary and The New Polo 79
Piaget’s CEO, Benjamin Comar, sits at the helm of the company at a momentous point in its history, its 150th anniversary. Georges Edouard Piaget set up his workshop in 1874 in the small village of La Côte-aux-Fées in the Swiss Jura mountains. There, Piaget made a name for himself first focusing on manufacturing parts and […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko Astron Morning Star GPS Solar SSH145 And SSJ021
Today, we’ll look at two new Seiko Astron Morning Star GPS Solar limited editions. The watches follow familiar forms but bring dark cases and striking dials reminiscent of the early morning sky. The Astron has a huge global following, so let’s see if these are to your liking. It was back in 2015 that I […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron Morning Star GPS Solar SSH145 And SSJ021 to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers SRPK65 And SRPK67
The Seiko 5 Sports line, especially when using the SKX case, has inspired hundreds of references over the past several years. Whether they’re inspired by manga, music, motorsport, or vintage watches, this line is like Japan’s version of Swatch. To be fair, many of the releases pass me by. However, two models inspired by the […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Rally Divers SRPK65 And SRPK67 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ikepod Megapod with a One-Minute Hourglass
Ikepod is a preeminent figure in unconventional and often contentious design-focused watchmaking icons. Revered by collectors and enthusiasts alike, the brand, founded in 1994 by designer Marc Newson and entrepreneur Oliver Ike, has left an indelible mark on the watchmaking scene. Despite its global success, Ikepod faced a challenging period, with production coming to a […]
Worn & Wound
Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop
Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Unveils Tourbillon Souscription and DR001 Calibre
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Quill & Pad
Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François 2008: Absolutely Sensational Champagne!
In Ken Gargett’s opinion, Billecart-Salmon’s Cuvee Nicolas François is a great champagne, whatever the vintage, but from 2008, it is transcendent. The champagne is of a gleaming appearance, like cut crystal. One sniff and it is obvious we are dealing with something that is wonderfully complex, elegant, still fresh and impeccably balanced.
Fratello
Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More
As you’ve probably noticed over the past three weeks, most members of the Fratello team have shared their 2024 watch resolutions already. But before the month ends, I’d also like to put my watch-related goals for this year down in writing. Can I guarantee that I’ll fulfill them all? No, but since the wheels are […] Visit Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Value Proposition - The New Time-and-Date Dan Henry 1972 Maverick Automatic
Behind the Dan Henry Watches brand is a man known as… Dan Henry. An avid collector with great taste in vintage watches, he has used some of his favourite models to create a collection of timepieces inspired by the past but with an excellent price/quality ratio. Following a couple of cool automatic dive watches – […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Direnzo DRZ06 Wandering Star
I always look forward to checking out a new release from Direnzo. There’s always more than meets the eye, and the DRZ06 Wandering Star is no exception. The watch is a marriage of the familiar and the unexpected. In this case, the ‘familiar’ is an evolution of Direnzo’s retro-futuristic design language, including a dish-shaped dial, bold colors, and organic-feeling markers cut into a sandwich dial. The ‘unexpected’ is the presence of a mystery dial. It’s now some years since I wrote about the originals and heyday of the Mystery Dial here, but it’s still a feature I’d like to see more of. I guess many watchmakers might be deterred from attempting this as it’s difficult to avoid the mystery being the interesting thing about a watch and therefore becoming little more than a gimmick. Perhaps the reason it has been implemented successfully as part of the DRZ06 Wandering Star is that we just have a mystery sub-dial for the running seconds, with a lone red dot slowly spinning around against the lumed backdrop. Last summer I spent some time with Direnzo’s previous release – a reworking of one of their earliest models. The case of the new DRZ06 is similar in shape to that of the DRZ02 Aerolite, but with some subtle changes that blend to give a different character. For starters, the brushed steel bezel is larger in every way. Despite the main watch case being a soft square shape, this strong bezel makes the watch feel far rounder. The Wandering Star still pull...
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Chronograph: The World’s Only Watch that can Time Two Separate Events for 12 Hours - Reprise
In the annals of A. Lange & Söhne history, the Double Split was one of the most widely celebrated releases. It introduced the idea of a split-second and split-minute chronograph allowing the wearer to time at least two events lasting up to an hour. The Triple Split is the inevitable progression of it, adding a split-hour function to allow timing two multi-hour events up to 12 hours.
Worn & Wound
Garrick Launches an S2 with the Most Esoteric of Complications: Deadbeat Seconds
Garrick, one of our favorite watchmakers in the burgeoning “micro-indie” space, has introduced a watch that is truly niche to start 2024. Really, it’s a niche of a niche, because even the most straightforward Garrick is a highly specialized enthusiast focused object. Each one is custom made for its owner, and Garrick offers a head spinning variety of customization options so clients can truly make their new watch their own. Now, with the latest entrant in Garrick’s growing S2 lineup, customers can opt for one of the most unusual and esoteric complications of all: the deadbeat second. The Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds employs the Calibre DB-GO6, a movement built from the ground up with an unusual party trick: instead of a smooth sweeping motion that most mechanical watch collectors are accustomed to, the seconds hand driven by this caliber “ticks” in a manner that is similar to a quartz watch. It’s anachronistic to say the least, and the complication has come to represent something akin to an insider’s secret for the way it upends expectations about how we expect a mechanical watch to function. Historically, the complication has roots in the scientific community, as timing events to the second in this manner was advantageous in certain circumstances. The S2 case is 42mm in stainless steel (gold cases are also available) and customers begin the custom ordering process by selecting either a MK 1 dial (with a heat blued skeletonized chapter ring) or a MK...
Teddy Baldassarre
10 Best Watch Winders for Any Collector's Budget in 2026
If you own any automatic watches at all, especially enough of them to ensure that you’re not wearing the same one daily, you will inevitably face the issue of keeping those watches running, and set to the proper time and date, when they’re not on your wrist. Some collectors choose to simply commit to re-winding and re-setting their automatic watches when their power reserve runs down - it’s a ritual that many traditionalists actually enjoy - but others would rather invest in some high-tech hardware to lend a hand. Here is where a watch winder comes in. These helpful and often luxuriously appointed machines are designed to store your precious self-winding timepieces while also keeping them charged via electronic, motorized rotations - the timing, direction, and duration of which can often be pre-set and monitored - that mimic the natural movement of a wearer’s wrist. For those ready to dip their toe into the wide world of watch winders, we’ve gathered 10 favorites from 10 brands representing as wide a variety as possible in terms of styles, sizes, and price points. Wolf Roadster 4PC Watch Winder ($2,095) Wolf watch winders, known for their fusion of leather, wood, glass, and steel, work on a 24-hour cycle, with six-hour periods of intermittent activity followed by “sleep” periods that allow the tension in the watches’ mainsprings to ease, avoiding over-winding. Fifty different cycles are possible, allowing the owner to specify factors such as direc...
Time+Tide
T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary
Ten years. A decade. 69 years, in dog years. That’s how long Time+Tide has been going. To celebrate this milestone, We. Are. Going. To. Party. For Aussies, this means a ‘Big Day Out’ X 5 (or a week-long Lollopalooza or Glastonbury if you don’t know the reference) in our Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne, Australia. … ContinuedThe post T+T10: A week of Studio events and three boutique editions to celebrate our 10th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.