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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States Teddy Baldassarre
May 10, 2024

The Top 10 Watchmaker Schools in the United States

For most of us, the art and science of watchmaking is simply the technical underpinning behind the timepieces that fascinate us as enthusiasts, hobbyists, and collectors - an esoteric and intricate world delved into at varying levels of interest based on our individual curiosity about, and/or understanding of, the mechanisms involved. For some, however, learning how to assemble, repair, or perhaps even build a watch from scratch is an obsession that can lead to a lifelong and very fulfilling career as a trained watchmaker and repairer- and to put it bluntly, the watch industry needs more of them. Here are the 10 state-accredited educational institutions in the U.S. offering full-time curricula for watchmaking careers as compiled by the Horological Society of New York.  Gem City College School of Horology, Quincy, IL Photo: AWCI Gem City College was founded in 1870 as Gem City Business College by Civil War veteran DeLafayette Musselman, whose name still adorns one of the campus buildings. Located in the city of Quincy, adjacent to the Mississippi River, the College added its horology school in 1961, which was a department that had actually migrated over from Bradley University in neighboring Peoria, as well as a cosmetology program in 1975, expanding from its original business model of training students in business-specific courses like banking, penmanship, and accounting. Today, the Horology School offers courses in watchmaking and watch repair, clock repair, jew...

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic Worn & Wound
Brew Teams Up May 10, 2024

Brew Teams Up with Alton Brown for the Limited Edition Retrograph Relic

The success story that is the Brew Watch Co. is one of our favorites in the entire industry. Jonathan Ferrer’s brand has grown well beyond its initial humble scope over the course of the last few years with a series of releases that have transcended the microbrand bubble, gaining admirers from every corner of the watch community. With Brew, it all comes down to the design, and every new watch proves once again that you don’t need to spend a fortune to own something unique and genuinely special. Brew’s latest release calls back to the brand’s foundation in coffee themed designs while treading new ground with a high profile collaborator. The new Retrograph Relic, released in partnership with Alton Brown, feels like a full circle moment for the brand, and for watch fans who came of age watching “Good Eats” it offers a ton of charm.  What we have here is a Retrograph, Brew’s signature Meca-Quartz chronograph, with a special oxidized dial that has been treated to express what Brew calls an “espresso-esque patina.” The tones of brown form randomly on the dial during the process, so each of the 250 pieces in this limited edition is unique.  Alton Brown’s involvement makes sense on a few levels. First, he’s a very notable watch guy, having appeared on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches all the way back in 2017, and being the subject of watch-spots from the Instagram community for even longer. Secondly, if you know his work on “Good Eats,” you know that he tak...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More Fratello
Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring May 10, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We stay in the Rolex universe this week and check out some of the most amazing Rolex stone dials. The Genevan brand has created exceptional dials through the decades, with the stone dials being the most famous among many watch fans. Taking the step to stone dials this week was […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Stone Dials - Featuring Onyx, Lapis Lazuli, Coral, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer Fratello
May 10, 2024

Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer

It’s not often that we get to review a watch from a brand that is completely new to us. This week, though, I had the honor to get up close and personal with a new watch from a young brand called Lesablier. It was the LS-04 Travelgraph, and, in short, I’d describe it as a […] Visit Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer to read the full article.

Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX SJX Watches
Tissot Debuts New Green Dials May 10, 2024

Tissot Debuts New Green Dials for the PRX

A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle Fratello
Cartier Showing How It’s Done? May 10, 2024

Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle

We have heard quite a few complaints from brands about the watch market recently. Many are struggling from economic uncertainty and a serious correction after lockdown-induced all-time highs. One brand, however, seems to be on a bit of a winning streak. According to Morgan Stanley, Cartier overtook Omega as the second-largest Swiss watchmaker behind Rolex […] Visit Is Cartier Showing How It’s Done? - Why The Brand Wins While Others Struggle to read the full article.

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan Worn & Wound
Cartier s May 9, 2024

Introducing the B/1, the Debut Watch from Toledano & Chan

A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book.  The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...

Hands-on - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph May 9, 2024

Hands-on - The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Shows Great Promise

As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]

Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers Worn & Wound
Cartier May 9, 2024

Rolex, Cartier, and the Competitive Edge: the Watches of Challengers

Before I hop into the watches in “Challengers” and how they play into the movie, I want to establish an important fact about me - I am not a sports fan, much less a tennis fan. However, this movie wasn’t really about tennis, was it?  This is more a movie about the loss of innocence to the nature of competition. Now that is something I can understand, and I’d wager you can too. Many of us are pushed to be competitive from a young age. Whether it be through sports, academics, the competition over jobs, success in the arts, or even in love, the spirit of competition is implanted early, and if you’re not careful it can take over. And yes, when it comes to the consumption of competition, watches can play a role.  We all start out wide-eyed and accepting of others, the concept of “prejudice” or an “enemy” is not innate but instilled through slow infiltration. At the start, the characters in Challengers are exactly this - hopeful and innocent. Art Donaldson (Mike Faist) and Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor) are former boarding school friends and roommates turned tennis teammates. They are close friends whose relationship extends both on and off court. Patrick is established as the naturally better tennis player at the beginning of their careers, but his love and respect for his friend Art is evident. In an early scene the two win a doubles match, but are then discussing a singles match they have the next day against one another where Art asks if Patrick woul...

Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 Fratello
May 9, 2024

Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1

There’s no denying that we’re in a spinning loop of retro reissues. While some are beautiful and poignant time-traveling talismans capable of mood-elevating magic, some are just cash cows. But if you’re into asymmetric modernity, the architectural futurism of the Toledano & Chan B/1 brings a much-needed breath of fresh air. This year, Watches and […] Visit Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold May 9, 2024

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green

Next year, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato will turn 50. I’m telling you this now, well ahead of the anniversary, so you can prepare yourself for a wave of novelties. One year before the watch’s big anniversary, two very fresh yet rich versions make their debut. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second NK5010-51L, NK5010-51X, And NK5010-01H Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second NK5010-51L May 9, 2024

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second NK5010-51L, NK5010-51X, And NK5010-01H

When Citizen introduced the (later-named) Tsuyosa back in 2022, it caused quite a stir. The 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet watch offered a lot of bang for the buck. This year, the Citizen Tsuyosa returns with a new version, the Small Second. Three new references join the collection, in blue, green, and gray. The last comes on a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second NK5010-51L, NK5010-51X, And NK5010-01H to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces May 8, 2024

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners on Rubber Straps with the Alpine F1 Team

One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve.  In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...

Five Must-Have EDC Items Worn & Wound
May 8, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Items

It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. It’s time for a good old fashioned EDC-themed Chronicle, and we’ve gathered what we consider some of the most essential – and practical – gear you can pick up. They say variety is the spice of life, and there’s plenty of flavor here, from knives to pouches to pens, and more. Without further ado, here are five must-have EDC items to help you stay prepared for anything life may throw at you. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. The post Five Must-Have EDC Items appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Explained: The Detent Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s natural escapement May 8, 2024

Explained: The Detent Escapement

Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century,  somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin May 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold

This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.

The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than May 7, 2024

The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award?

After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 7, 2024

A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong

Made for the 10th anniversary of its retailer in the city, the Habring² Doppel 38 Hong Kong Edition is a split-seconds chronograph sporting the brand’s signature “bullhead” pusher layout. With only 10 made for A Watch Company, the Hong Kong edition is essentially a standard Doppel 38 but with a dial almost identical to that on the Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary.  Initial thoughts The basic Doppel 38 is probably the best value rattrapante on the market. It’s a manual-wind split-seconds chronograph with a smartly constructed movement for about US$12,000. Functionality aside, the Hong Kong Edition is even more appealing, thanks to the refined dial design. Admittedly, it is not an original design since it’s clearly vintage inspired – and the “sector” layout has been done by many brands – but it is still a good look. Priced at HK$89,800, or about US$11,500, the Doppel 38 is arguably an even better value proposition than the regular production model thanks to the styling. A value proposition rattrapante Highly regarded for value-minded timepieces, Habring² is Austrian brand run by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. Featuring the “bullhead” pushers at two and ten, the Doppel 38 has compact, elegant dimensions considering the complication, with the steel case measuring 38 mm by 11.5 mm. The case is mirror-polished on the bezel and tops of the lugs with satin brushing on the sides.  The blued chronograph minutes hand has a retro, po...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More Fratello
Longines Lorca May 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More

It is time for another round of Fratello editors’ favorites in a specific segment. This time, we are looking at the best watches under €2,500, and I get the honor of kicking it off. Now, while €2.5K is a huge amount of money by any measure, it is starting to feel quite limiting within the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More to read the full article.