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The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Editor’s Jun 15, 2020

The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Editor’s note: Every great product has a genesis, and for this Italian-founded watch and jewellery firm it is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic. It was the one that started it all back in 2017, leaving eyes wide open with its sharply faceted design and ultra-thin construction. In the years following, we have seen the same … ContinuedThe post The Octo that (really) started it all, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise Quill & Pad
Piaget Timepieces – Reprise Alexander Jun 14, 2020

Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces – Reprise

Alexander Doerr had never really paid much attention to opals before, but upon closer inspection he realized this gemstone is extraordinary – shrouded in mystery and well worth learning more about. Looking at an opal is like looking at fireworks or even looking into a galaxy. And, as he learned, two Swiss watch brands specialize in using the fiery gemstone in watches: Jaquet Droz and Piaget.

The Modifier’s Series: Wildman NYC by name, wild man of modding by nature Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2020

The Modifier’s Series: Wildman NYC by name, wild man of modding by nature

A little variety in life goes a long way. Nobody wants to see roads full of the same car, or hear the same three songs over and over in shopping centres, so why shouldn’t this apply to watches? London-based modifiers Wildman are being the change they want to see in this global movement of super-custom … ContinuedThe post The Modifier’s Series: Wildman NYC by name, wild man of modding by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Project Possible Limited Edition, Bremont’s first bronze watch, with a hell of a backstory Time+Tide
Bremont s first bronze watch Jun 13, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Project Possible Limited Edition, Bremont’s first bronze watch, with a hell of a backstory

Last year, Nirmal “Nims” Purja made headlines when he scaled all 14 of the world’s 8000m mountain peaks, in just under seven months. He did so with a Bremont on his wrist. The watch in question was a blue and white Bremont S300, proving just how robust the brand’s watches are and how well they … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Project Possible Limited Edition, Bremont’s first bronze watch, with a hell of a backstory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 13, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions

Made exclusively for the American market, the Grand Seiko Soko US Special Editions, like many Grand Seiko watches, are a nod to a Japanese theme or motif. Made up of a pair of Spring Drive watches – the SBGA427 and SBGA429 – with bamboo-green accents, the special edition is named after Soko (霜降), one of the 24 periods of the traditional seasonal calendar. In the Japanese seasonal calendar, the year is divided into 24 periods known as Sekki (節季), each lasting about two weeks. Like any calendars in use before the modern age, the seasonal calendar was based on the solar year, and used by farmers for agriculture. Soko translates as “frost descending”, and marks the end of autumn. Specifically, the two watches take inspiration from Kyoto’s tranquil Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at autumn’s end, translating the scenery into elements of the dial. The Soko SBGA429 Initial thoughts I always love how Grand Seiko encapsulates Japanese concepts or culture in their watches – reflecting a strong national pride – which gives its timepieces an intrinsically distinct style compared to watches from other parts of the world. This is being done more often now that Grand Seiko is being sold widely outside of Japan, especially in the United States. With Grand Seiko gaining traction in America, the brand has produced several special editions available only in the country, such as the Kirazuri and the Japan Seasons special editions – effectively distilling the essence of J...

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 12, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia

One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...

BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot references Jun 11, 2020

BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references

The IWC Big Pilot collection is a pillar of the brand for a reason. The design is iconic and has remained unchanged for the best part of a century, the wrist presence is almost unparalleled, and the double-barrelled power reserve means you can take it off for a week without needing to reset the time. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition pre-loaded Jun 10, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses

It was only three months ago that the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch was launched, the third generation of the luxury Swiss smartwatch that first hit the market in 2015, the same year as the first generation of the Apple Watch. One (eventful) quarter later and we see the launch of the brand new TAG … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster restored I was Jun 10, 2020

How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever

When I had my great-grandfather’s 1958 Omega Seamaster restored, I was convinced that I’d never wear, or need another watch again. It looked great, performed fantastically, and I had a personal connection to it that just didn’t exist for anything else. But as my interest in watches and time spent researching them grew, it was … ContinuedThe post How the Swatch Casino Royale changed my collecting forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Jun 9, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition

When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 9, 2020

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears … ContinuedThe post “Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight Time+Tide
Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Jun 9, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight

First, we had the Limited Edition ‘Moonlit Night’, and now we have a brand new Limited Edition porcelain dial model inspired by Suigetsu, a Japanese tradition which celebrates the beauty of the moon reflected in water. If you needed another reason to be entranced by this stunning, liquid white porcelain dial, there it is – a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Jun 8, 2020

Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Argentium Tourbillon Skeleton

Born in Holland but now based in Geneva, Kees Engelbarts is one of the most prominent and established engravers in Swiss watchmaking. He moved to Geneva in 1994, and began a career as an independent engraving not long after. Amongst the brands he has worked for are major names like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot, but also independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour and Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbarts also makes watches under his own name, focusing on elaborately engraved or open-worked movements. His latest creation is the Argentium Tourbillon, an incredibly airy yet organic tourbillon that’s been skeletonised entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Mr Engelbarts is one of the oldest names in movement skeletonisation, so whether or not you like the aesthetic, the work is always excellent. His engraved creations are mostly figurative, often depicting a mythological creature, while his skeletonisation is usually organic and extremely striking. Though the look of the Argentium Tourbillon is too alien for me, the work is impressive. The bridges are refined and organic, and looking almost soft, but they are metal. Going from a full bridge made of German silver to an extraterrestrial life form is tedious work made up of cutting and filing. The craft is both delicate and physical, and similar to the craft of a high-end jeweller. A reductive process The Argentium Tourbillon starts with a CH016 movement made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a movement specialist in Neuchatel that specialise...

IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K Time+Tide
Seiko Samurai ‘Save Jun 8, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K

Editor’s note: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ feels like it’s been around forever. It probably has claims, as much as practically any other modern watch, and certainly on any other diver, on being something of a modern icon with its striking ‘ventral pleats’ horizontally striping the dial, and its top to bottom blue graduation designed to emulate … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Remembering the OG Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Jun 7, 2020

In-Depth: The Definitive Guide to the A. Lange & Söhne Handwerkskunst

When Walter Lange celebrated his 90th birthday in 2014, A. Lange & Söhne marked the occasion with a short interview. Asked how he would define the brand, the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange quoted the late Günter Blümlein: “A Lange watch is a fusion of the arts… [and] the unique technology and artisanship to which we are committed.” Lange has created many special watches since it was re-established in 1994, but one family of timepieces embodies Blümlein’s description – Handwerkskunst. A line of limited-edition watches, Handwerkskunst – which translates as “craftsmanship” – is defined by traditional artistic techniques of decoration and exemplary hand-finish, a combination that is truly a “fusion of the arts”. The goal of this article is to provide the context behind the creation of the Handwerkskunst series, and to detail the individual models. The focus will be on the details of each model, how they differ from their standard counterparts, and the realised prices at auction – livened up by my personal experience and opinion. Five of the eight Handwerkskunst models launched to date, without the Richard Lange Pour le Merite, Cabaret Tourbillon, and Datograph Why handwerkskunst? I am often asked why I love Lange watches. It’s a long answer, but one reason goes beyond the watch themselves – it is the brand’s determination to preserve and develop the artisanal crafts in Saxony. In fact, Lange is something of a hub for artisans in the ...

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths Quill & Pad
Bulgari Jun 7, 2020

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths

Talking about exceptionally thin mechanics leads us to world-record-holding thin watches, which inevitably leads to Piaget. These days constantly in battle with Bulgari for thinness world records, Piaget has recently released the production version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which now holds the record for thinness at just 2 mm. How is this even possible?

IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm Jun 7, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm

Just a few short weeks ago, Time+Tide had the distinct pleasure of globally unveiling the last of the 50th anniversary special edition Zenith El Primeros. Called the Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, this gorgeous watch was the result of a surprise discovery that the team at Zenith had found in a dusty old cupboard in their … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary Time+Tide
Grand Seiko First references Jun 5, 2020

VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary

Grand Seiko are marking the 60th anniversary of their first watch with a small collection of dress watches that are based on the first ever watches to be made with Grand Seiko on the dial. These classically styled time-only dress watches set the foundation for what Grand Seiko are becoming known for today; a knack … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Two precious metal Grand Seiko First references to celebrate the 60th anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jun 5, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer

Having revived the Master Control models of 1992 earlier this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) was surely going to do the same for one of its longest-lived complications, the vibrating Memovox alarm. And so it has, with two new alarm watches in fact: the Master Control Memovox and the Master Control Memovox Timer. Both are powered by the same base movement, but the limited-edition Memovox Timer features an additional countdown function for the alarm. The cal. 956 with an open-worked, pink gold rotor Initial thoughts The base-model Master Control Memovox looks just like the Memovox of 20 years ago, and it is a good look. Now the case finishing has been upgraded, as has the movement – which is now visible through a display back – creating a tidy package that’s just right. And price-wise the new model is comparable to recent JLC alarm watches, which is fair, albeit still a bit pricey. A little bit more funky and countdown scale in relief, the Master Control Memovox Timer is a lot more expensive, almost 35% more expensive than the base model. It does have an added countdown function to go along with the fancier dial, but it is too expensive. Ringing since 1951 The Master Control Memovox is a moderate 40 mm in diameter, though fairly thick at 12.39 mm, a necessary consequence of the movement. Compared to its namesake watch of the 1990s, the case has grown slightly larger, but more importantly has an improve finish. It features contrasting polished and brushed finished on the ...