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H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Feb 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again

While some watch collectors may ‘pooh pooh’ smartwatches in general, ultimately it is the largest category of watches in the marketplace today. Sure, they may not possess the traditional glamour of mechanical watchmaking but their modern functionalities are extremely compelling to watch wearers around the world. The USP of the TAG Heuer Connected lineup has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch

Oversaturation is real in the world of microbrands. Just count how many vintage or retro-inspired $300 dive watches you see scrolling through the pages on Kickstarter, and you’ll know exactly what I mean. This is why true novelty with substance can rarely be found, as those claiming to offer it often lean the wrong side … ContinuedThe post The NOVE Gemini is an elaborate alt take on a reversible-dial watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch

Okay, you got us, this piece is a smidge over the $500 AUD benchmark that we hold so dear at this penny-pinching, open-your-wallet-and-moth-flies-out column. But the ROI is worth it. There are a number of colourways in Leff’s Tube Collection but for out-and-out handsomeness, we’re drawn to the steel and pearl combination. The first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Feb 9, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon

Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph that is trading for nearly twice its retail value. Today we are going to dive into the secondary market performance … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Omega Speedmaster limited editions values are soaring to the moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight Time+Tide
Norqain Night Sight Judging Feb 8, 2022

Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight

Judging a brand in print before actually holding one of their offerings in hand is akin to libel. So much gets lost between the 2D images of a press release and the feeling of steel on your fingertips. Every curve and facet is a testament to what it is a brand can do, so when … ContinuedThe post Five takeaways from my time with the Norqain Night Sight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 Time+Tide
Rolex price rises Feb 7, 2022

A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. A riff on Nina Simone’s classic song Feeling Good is a nice accompaniment in these opening days of 2022, particularly when it comes to the … ContinuedThe post A Professor of Economics unpacks the true meaning of the Rolex price rises for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Feb 7, 2022

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before

Editor’s note: There are a lot of watches out there and while we endeavour to stay across as many as we can, truth be told, some fly under the radar (fly being the operative word in this case). That’s why we were delighted when a Time+Tide reader, Edouard, informed us about a watch we’d never … ContinuedThe post The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

To the moon and back: How I finally bought an Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster If you open Feb 6, 2022

To the moon and back: How I finally bought an Omega Speedmaster

If you open up Google and type in “Why do I have a hard time choosing an Omega Speedmaster?”, chances are your first non-ad result will be a Time & Tide article from February 2020 documenting my own personal struggles with the same question. After I wrote that article, I received a lot of feedback … ContinuedThe post To the moon and back: How I finally bought an Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Feb 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon

Complications are where watch manufacturers display their technical prowess. Traditional functionalities such as perpetual calendars or rattrapante chronographs are, well, complicated to manufacture. But Hublot is anything but traditional, developing pioneering materials through their “art of fusion” philosophy as well as some out-of-the-box complications you will not find anywhere else. The Hublot Big Bang Unico … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s most intriguing offerings Feb 5, 2022

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT side note Feb 4, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022

Since I started collecting, every January 1st, after kissing my loved ones and drinking champagne, I give my watches a onceover. It’s something I didn’t realise I did until this year, when I almost dropped my Grand Seiko GMT (side note: a great way to sear an event into your mind). In that moment, I … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: My watch resolutions for 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.