Hodinkee
How They Made It: This Hublot Is Into Leather
Straps are one thing. This watch has a leather dial and bezel, too.
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The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit
It’s the kind of anecdote that immediately causes the eyes to squint, and all internal radars for shadiness sweep madly across the story points. A consignor sends an email to Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, founders of Loupe This, an online watch auction platform that we’ve covered here, saying that he wanted to “let go” of … ContinuedThe post The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Massena LAB x Luca Soprana “Old School”
Devoid of excess, Old School is solid, sober and austere, a simple time-only watch that brims with precision in reading and hand-crafted detail.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana
Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...
Time+Tide
Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold
Some would suggest that the perfect dress watch has a long list of criteria. Less than 40mm, no complications, made from a precious metal, thin, etc. Although this framework is a good recipe, there should definitely be room for bending the rules, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold is a … ContinuedThe post Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Introducing the BREW Retromatic Automatic 70s inspired Watch. Ikepod looks from an American Micro
Quill & Pad
WatchTime New York Returns, Showcasing Some Of The Most Stunning Timepieces Of 2021
WatchTime New York is back! With 28 participating watch brands set to showcase their latest watches, the fair takes place at Midtown Manhattan’s Gotham Hall from October 22 through 24, 2021. Here Sabine Zwettler highlights three new timepieces from A. Lange & Söhne, Armin Strom, and Bovet that will be showing for the first time in North America there.
Time+Tide
Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD
After debating the best watches under $1,000 USD and the best watches from $1,000 – $3,000 USD, the next tier we are going to tackle in our Don’t Miss This series are the best watches from $3K-5K USD. Traditionally speaking, the luxury watch segment really kicks off in the $3000 USD and above price point – … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $3K-5K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler”
One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...
Revolution
Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.
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NYC's Hottest Horological Weekend Returns
America's largest watch fair(s).
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Why This $250K Lamborghini Watch is Driving Watch Collectors Crazy | Watchfinder & Co.
Time+Tide
What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future
In many ways, the goings-on of a watch brand are heavily guarded secrets to us collectors. Yes, we can guesstimate what is happening behind those large manufacture doors but, really, we have no clue. That is, of course, until someone spills the beans. Maybe it’s someone from public relations or a Powerpoint presentation leaked from … ContinuedThe post What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Classics Revisited: Hands-On with the MB&F; Horological Machine 2 (HM2)
When MB&F; debuted its first timepiece – the Horological Machine 1 – in 2007, it changed the way we view watches. It also paved the way for the vibrant independent watchmaking scene that we are so accustomed to today. Chances are, for the younger collectors, MB&F; is probably the first independent watch brand that oneRead More
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Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation
Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...
Time+Tide
The Pink Dial Project auction lot overview: The indies, micros, and sleeper hits
October 25th marks the inaugural launch of The Pink Dial Project, a fundraising auction involving a long list of top watch brands in partnership with our friends at Revolution, Fratello Watches, Loupe This, and The Eye of Jewelry. In an effort to raise funds and awareness for breast cancer, each brand has been prompted to spotlight … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project auction lot overview: The indies, micros, and sleeper hits appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021
We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.
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The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands
Whenever an auction catalogue is released, many collectors scavenge through the lots to find unique or prototype pieces. Whether a piece unique, or watch #00, the pieces present ultra-rare finds for bidders – and, as we all know too well, ultra rare equals super collectible. But what if there was an auction entirely comprised of … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66
It used to be that Rolex was the watch to be worn on adventures – climbing mountains, diving the ocean depths, exploring, and forging new discoveries in science involving huge magnetic fields. Well, Rolex is still in the adventure business, but these days the adventure is more likely to be actually trying to purchase the watch … ContinuedThe post When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Explainer: the new Louis Moinet Space Revolution
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
Time+Tide
Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $1K-3K USD
After debating the best watches under $1,000 USD, the next tier we are going to tackle in our Don’t Miss This series is the $1,000 – $3,000 USD segment. To recap, the team was challenged to nominate a watch, within or under a given price point, that they believe serves as a gateway benchmark for … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches from $1K-3K USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
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The Brand New Longines Watch LOOKS Broken! | Watchfinder & Co.
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HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT
One of the most sought after complications by buyers is the GMT, a watch that can track two or more time zones on the wrist. With complication though can come cost, especially when we enter the realm of big-name luxury brands. But there are exceptions to the rule, and TAG Heuer has just proven this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing Fortis Marinemaster
Fortis gets in touch with nature on their new Marinemaster line of tool watches. Made of recycled steel and inspired by the natural outdoors. This is also brand’s second watch with the Werk 11 movement, in collaboration with Kenissi movement manufacture.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”
Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT
Look… we all usually have smartphones at our disposal, but for watch collectors and enthusiasts there is something really neat about having a timepiece that can track two or more timezones. We’re now living in the most globalised society in history, connecting with people all around the world. This past year, we have all been … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean and versatile traveller’s GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces
When I say ‘our’ there in the title; ‘our’ Night Surfer, a nickname this watch adopted early on when the vertical gradient of the dial and star came together, I mean it. The amount of collaboration that went into this extraordinary watch is hard to adequately describe in a short written post. So in anticipation … ContinuedThe post The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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