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Greubel Forsey adds another amazing GMT to the Sports lineup
Greubel Forsey delights with a new extension to the GMT Sport line, with a model with a blue accented movement and new bezel and finishes.
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SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet
Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillons, Greubel Forsey builds movements with unique three-dimensionality and exemplary finishing. In 2019, it started applying its unusual brand of watchmaking to the sports watch for the first time with the GMT Sport – a world time with inclined tourbillon – and now follows up with the new GMT Sport that has the same movement but the addition of an integrated titanium bracelet, a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch may be new for Greubel Forsey, it’s now a familiar and fashionable concept. Greubel Forsey is relatively late to the party – beyond veterans like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, such sports watches are already found at almost every price point, from Citizen’s US$2,000 Series 8 to the Lange Odysseus. That said, the GMT Sport is noteworthy for one simple reason – it’s the most complicated, and perhaps best finished, integrated-bracelet sports watch money can buy, combining a world time, dual time, and an inclined tourbillon. So while Greubel Forsey took its time with the concept, the brand certainly executed it in style. I much prefer the new GMT Sport over the earlier version. For one, the bezel is now plain, devoid of the tiny, relief inscriptions that are something of a Greubel Forsey signature but don’t quite work on a sports watch. The dial is now entirely in blue, giving the new GMT Sport a more modern look (that admittedly is also fashionable given the popular...
SJX Watches
Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph
Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Premier Heritage Chronograph and Datora
Breitling’s opening salvo for the year is a trio of chronographs at Watches & Wonders 2021. The first is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, a straightforward, two-register chronograph, and another is the Premier Heritage Datora, an old-school combination of a chronograph with triple calendar. (The flagship model is the Premier Heritage Duograph split-seconds chronograph, which we cover in another story.) The new Premier Heritage collection is modelled on its namesake line from the 1940s, continuing the brand’s recent efforts of revisiting its past catalogue and re-introducing notable references, but with a couple of modern twists, like the mint-green dial for the Premier chronograph. The Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of the new releases. While the Premier Heritage Chronograph may not be the most innovative, it’s an improvement over the previous generation Premier chronograph. For one, the case size has been reduced to 40 mm from 42 mm, giving the new watch proportions more akin to its vintage inspiration. The dial, now sans date window, is cleaner too. And its manual-winding movement should please traditionalists, who can also admire the movement through a sapphire case back without a rotor to obscure the view. That being said, the mint-green dial will likely divide opinions. It’s a bold look, but I can’t help but wonder if keeping to a safer colour would have been the wiser choice given the retro design. The Datora in ...
Time+Tide
The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do
The beautifully convex shape and mind-boggling complexity of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport is one of the most extreme examples of a sports watch you’re likely to see. While undoubtedly tough, this is a creation from the atelier that questions the very existence of the luxury sports watch genre. After all, is anyone truly likely … ContinuedThe post The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper
I don’t think I have ever been more excited (in recent times) by a Breitling novelty. The manufacturer has a rich heritage, undoubtedly, but in past years I have not found myself tempted to add one of their watches to my personal collection. I admire and respect their iconic designs, like the Navitimer, but never … ContinuedThe post The Breitling we have all been waiting for – the Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials
There’s no shortage of icons in the realm of pilot watches with aviation forming a key part of human achievement over the last century. There is arguably no stronger example of watches being used as indispensable tools, a notion which is increasingly romanticised as the humble watch becomes more of a style accessory over the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Khaki X-Wind collection takes flight with striking camouflage dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution and The Rake Special Edition Watches: A Retrospective Over Seven Years
We shine a spotlight on our limited run collaborations with some of the world’s best-loved watch brands.
Revolution
The Man Behind the Incredible LM Perpetual, Stephen McDonnell
Stephen McDonnell shares his story of unusual beginnings as an Oxford student of theology into the world of watchmaking, developing a passion that would lead him through the doors of MB&F;, where he would take on a more-than-a-century-old dilemma and come out triumphant.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Pynchon Watches Negotium brings back heritage charm in a calendar watch with a difference
Many microbrands cater to our strong desire for vintage divers. This makes it increasingly frustrating if, like myself, you have a penchant for slim skin divers with a ’60s look and feel. You run the risk of eventually going broke or getting decision fatigue with such a vast choice of watches jostling for your attention. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Pynchon Watches Negotium brings back heritage charm in a calendar watch with a difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Small is More: Six Relatively Smaller Watches for the Gentlemen, from Our Archives
In a world of excesses, it might be good to look at a different direction and opt for something more discreet and elegant. The same goes for watches.
Quill & Pad
A Mechanical Masterpiece By A Mechanical Mastermind: The Konstantin Chaykin Moscow Comptus Easter Clock – Reprise
Konstantin Chaykin's Moscow Comptus Easter Clock masterpiece isn’t designed for the wrist but for the mantel. And it presents further evidence that the man Joshua Munchow dubs the “Wonderboy Russian Watchmaker” is one of the greatest watch- and clockmakers in the game today.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection
While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone designs in today’s marketplace. Historically two tone is comprised of stainless steel and a precious metal in a contrasting tone (such as yellow or pink gold). But forward-thinking manufacturers have realised there is possibly a better combination of tones that will … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour
A watchmaker with many excellent movements – and some exceptional calibres – Chopard is instead better known for its jewellery watches or auto-racing chronographs. Now Chopard keeps at its, and has just added to its list of excellent movements with the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Conceived to mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C line – made up of the brand’s high horology offerings and named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Quattro Spirit is its first jump hour. Dressed up with a fired enamel dial, it is powered by an impressive and refined eight-day movement. Initial thoughts An instinctively appealing watch, the Quattro Spirit is good looking and size well; most notably, the movement is interesting. While jumping hours isn’t particularly complicated, the leap of the digital display on a mechanical watch is still an intriguing sight. Add to that four barrels that supply a run time of eight days, the cal. L.U.C 98.06-L becomes even more compelling. Assembling one stack of twin barrels Notably, even with the long power reserve, the watch remains relatively compact, just 40 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall. That’s thanks to a clever optimisation of space, with the movement relying on twin stacked barrels, with each stack containing two mainsprings connected in series. Priced at a bit under US$45,000, the Quattro Spirit costs substantially more than other L.U.C watches with the same eight-day base movement without the jumping hours. In fact, the addition of the jump ...
Quill & Pad
Easter Special: The Story Behind The Fabulous Fabergé Eggs – Reprise
When they hear the name Fabergé, most people immediately think of imperial Easter eggs. This is logical because even today the breathtaking craftsmanship and detailed execution of these objets d’art are the stuff of legends. Here is a brief history of them.
SJX Watches
Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display
A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...
SJX Watches
NASA Velcro Straps for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
The Omega Speedmaster Professional is an icon for one reason: the three astronauts of Apollo 11 each worn one during the Moon landing of 1969. And five decades later, Speedmaster remains the only mechanical watch that’s part of NASA’s official kit for astronauts. After many Speedmaster limited editions marking its longstanding relationship with the American space agency, Omega now unveils a set of NASA Velcro straps for the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Initial thoughts From memorable advertisement starring George Clooney and Buzz Aldrin to the paraphernalia and accessories that accompany the multitude of Moonwatch iterations, Omega relentlessly reminds us about the provenance of the Moonwatch, and doubles down on the NASA association with the new straps. The NASA-themed straps are a first, but also a logical and expected extension of the Moonwatch franchise, especially since independent strap makers have offered similar aftermarket straps in the past. The new straps are cool and affordable, making them something of a perk for Speedmaster enthusiasts. As an owner of a Moonwatch myself, I’m a fan of the new straps. Not only are they a nod to the history of the Speedmaster Professional, but they also inject a bit of fun into the no-nonsense Speedmaster design. And they also bring to mind the extra-long velcro straps that actual astronauts use in order to wear the Speedmaster on a space suit. Who doesn’t want to feel like an astronaut? If Omega’s earlier velcro straps ar...
Time+Tide
Why not knowing the time is a form of psychological torture used by the military
The project is called Deep Time. Right now, 15 people are sealed in a pitch-black cave in the south of France. They have zero access to watches, phones or any other means to monitor the passing of time. Forcibly cut off from the outside world, the volunteers have signed up for what will no doubt … ContinuedThe post Why not knowing the time is a form of psychological torture used by the military appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: TAG Heuer doubles down on smartwatch tech with the 2021 TAG Heuer Connected collection
When people think back to the beginning of smartwatches, they invariably think of the first Apple Watch back in 2015, but what isn’t well known is that TAG Heuer released their first Connected watch in the very same year. Yep, TAG Heuer have had skin in the smartwatch game for almost as long as anyone, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer doubles down on smartwatch tech with the 2021 TAG Heuer Connected collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel
The future is electric, let’s face it. For me it’s inescapable, my wife’s hybrid Audi A3 is plugged in outside, and I live in a country (Norway) where the most sold new car last year was the all-electric Tesla Model 3. So yes, there’s an unstoppable shift and it will also soon be coming through … ContinuedThe post Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; has somewhat been left in the shadows of the oh-so-perfect-but-slightly-over-hyped 58. The original Black Bay 58 in black is actually part of my own collection, and while it does sit on my wrist with a calm, quiet confidence, I have toyed with the idea of flipping it for this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past
A watch doesn’t become a classic if designers keep radically altering the way that it looks. A classic design needs consistency and slow, gradual tweaks if it’s to make its mark in the history books. Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither was the Rado Captain Cook. But even a classic design can do … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch?
Gerald Genta-inspired? Perhaps, but still very much its own style and formal elegance. The Batavi Architect is the latest upcoming release from the Dutch microbrand behind the popping fresh Kosmopoliet GMT, a colourful take on a vintage skin diver with a GMT function. This time the influence is from the laid-back cool of the 70s, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Rules of (Chronograph) Engagement
Demystifying chronograph movements, along with a balanced view on the horizontal vs vertical clutch debate.
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Habring² Foudroyante Felix in Salmon – the living review
Sharon Tan reviews her own Habring² Foudroyante Felix in Salmon after owning and living with the watch for some time. Here are her candid thoughts.
Revolution
Introducing the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic
Whilst many brands shout from the rooftops about their ceramic innovations, Rado has been quietly going about its ceramic business since the launch of its Integral in 1986, with its scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic bracelet. This year, Rado has taken its ceramic technology and created a 43mm high-tech ceramic cased Captain Cook in four versions.
Revolution
Introducing the Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT
Bell & Ross adds to their multi-time zone instruments with the BR 03-93 GMT now with a bi-directional bezel with two-color anodized aluminum insert
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update
How do you update a classic? It’s a problem that many designers face, whether they work in the watch industry, automotives or product design. How do you retain the original idea behind a design and still bring it forward into the here and now? This is a question that the Rado Captain Cook designers must … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf
It’s fair to say that most people have probably put on a couple of COVID kilos during the rolling lockdowns we’ve all gone through over the last 12 months. I know I have. But now that things are slowly returning to a semblance of normality and confidence is growing that our future plans won’t be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.