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New: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 in burgundy dial for Chinese New Year of the Rabbit
IWC goes early to welcome the new Year of the Water Rabbit (22 Jan 2023) with a magnificent new Portugieser Automatic 40 with a burgundy dial.
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Quill & Pad
Our Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) And Other Discretionary Prizes
The GPHG Aiguille d'Or is always one of the most difficult prizes to predict, not only because all the watches entered are free to be chosen from, but also because so many are so good. The watch needs to be exceptional to win and it might even be a clock. What does our panel choose?
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Mechanical Clock Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Near Unanimity Of The Automaton
Finally! After years of discussion that clocks should have a place, and some instances of clocks being included in categories that made little sense in 2021, the GPHG has created a category just for mechanical clocks. And, boy, what a complete smorgasbord of mechanical ingenuity! But what to choose?
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual
Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G
Patek Philippe introduces the new Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G in white gold, replacing the now-discontinued Ref. 5711 that had been in production since 2006.
SJX Watches
Boldr Introduces the Venture Singularity in Ultra-Black
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
Hodinkee
Business News: A Revival Of Daniel Roth, The Iconic 1990s Indie Brand, Appears Imminent
A sleeping giant of watchmaking is on the verge of waking up at LVMH.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”
Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe
For the last few years, watchmaking has really been throwing off the shackles of stylistic repression across independent and large-scale manufacturers, leading to some of the most outlandish designs ever seen. Although an ever-increasing will to experiment can only be a good thing for the industry, the trend towards more eccentric shapes and “fun” colours … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Conversation: We Respond To Your Comments On The New Rolex, Breitling, And Omegas - Plus Malaika's Do's And Don'ts
Catching up on the comments.
Deployant
Breaking News: The ASEAN leaders’ Made in Cambodia Tourbillon
Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen wrote that he will be presenting the leaders in the upcoming ASEAN Leaders Summit with a Made in Cambodia Tourbillon.
Deployant
The search for value: Six modestly priced watches to add into your watch collection
In this week's article, we focus on modestly priced watches - more specifically, timepieces with a price point at the sub-S$2,000 range.
Quill & Pad
Lagavulin 16-Year-Old Whisky And Why Ron Swanson Was Right On The Money - Reprise
Malt lovers immediately fall into one of two camps: one does not enjoy the peaty, smoky, seaweed notes that whisky from Islay usually offers. The second group loves those characteristics. No prize for guessing where Ken Gargett falls. But what about Ron Swanson and Lagavulin from the Scottish island of Islay?
Revolution
A Preview of the Upcoming Antiquorum Auction in Geneva (Nov 5th - 6th)
Eléonor speaks with Julien Schaerer, Managing Director of Antiquorum, about his top picks from the upcoming Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction that will be held at the Beau-Rivage Hotel from November 5th to 6th.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve
Some say that it’s a fashion faux-pas to mix black with brown, but rules are meant to be broken. Just as steel and gold can work together if you’ve got the attitude, a two-tone colour scheme of black and brown can bring some gloriously retro vibes to your wrist, sharing in the indulgent and decadent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”
An Australian rules football player who’s a Zenith ambassador, Lance “Buddy” Franklin recently scored his 1000th goal and is now ranked fifth amongst the all-time highest scorers of the Australian Football League (AFL). To celebrate the occasion, Mr Franklin turned to Zenith to create something special, resulting in the two-piece limited-edition Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”. Mr Franklin will keep one watch while the other example is going under the hammer at online auctioneer Loupe This with all proceeds going to the Australian Literacy and Numeracy Foundation, a national charity that brings education to marginalised communities. The auction is now live on Loupe This and ends on on November 7, 2022 at 2:00 am GMT-5 (New York) or 3:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore). Registration for bidding and full lot details can be accessed here. Lance “Buddy” Franklin Initial thoughts A larger and more rugged version of the Defy 21, the Defy Extreme is a big, sporty watch with an open-worked dial – a seemingly familiar formula. But the Buddy Franklin edition is different with its two-tone case and red dial. It moves away from the typical design of such watches and instead has a more restrained aesthetic that helps tame the 45 mm case size. The only downside of the watch is the fact that only one will be publicly available, and at an auction rather than for a fixed priced. But with the estimate being the retail price of the regular production model, the Buddy Franklin editio...
Deployant
Photography with the Sinar P and Phase One P45+
Just for the fun of it, I was at Crisp Contrasts to try out their Sinar P large format camera. Here is a run through using the Phase One P45+ digital back.
Time+Tide
The CODE41 Mecascape is like a sci-fi take on a pocket watch from another astral dimension
We’ve all been guilty of it plenty of times. You head out wearing your favourite watch, feel the urge to check the time, and before you know it you’re staring at your phone screen. Checking your phone can be a tough habit to break, even if you do have a perfectly adequate watch on your … ContinuedThe post The CODE41 Mecascape is like a sci-fi take on a pocket watch from another astral dimension appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: Strap In! The Hamilton Khaki Field Is On A Bracelet And Ready For Anything
The Khaki Field sang on a strap; with a bracelet it soars.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic
After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Releases The Expedition North Titanium Automatic
A look at the lightweight Timex Expedition North Titanium, featuring an automatic movement. Read up for specs, pricing, photos, and more.
Revolution
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo, The New Icon Part III: A Crowning Achievement
The journey of the Octo Finissimo continues, BVLGARI having conquered the new frontier of ultra-thin high complications. In 2018, the brand would reintroduce its icon in a whole different finish, this time in stainless steel, maintaining its infinitely wearable appeal. Nine years’ worth of world records would culminate in the top prize of the 2021 […]
Deployant
Event report and new watch release: Jacob & Co Opera The Godfather 50th Anniversary
Event report and a brief hands-on with the new watch - the new Jacob & Co Opera The Godfather 50th Anniversary, and present out impressions.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Any Of These Finalists Could Win
Two regulators, a chronograph, a Spring Drive classic, a new steel sports watch with a twist on the seconds, and a Nixie tube watch: this is what our peanut gallery must choose a winner from in the Petite Aiguille category, finding the best value under CHF 10,000. A tall order!
Hodinkee
Coming Soon: The Definitive Profile Of The Watch World's Most Important Auctioneer
Phillips auctioneer Aurel Bacs has been called "the closest thing the watch world has to a real celebrity." In our forthcoming magazine, we found out what makes him tick.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward Releases Their Own Chiming Watch: The C1 Bel Canto
Check out photos and specs on the new Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. It's the world's most affordable Swiss-made chiming watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Announces Their First Titanium Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge
A quick look at the absolutely massive Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea Challenge crafted out of Rolex's proprietary RLX Titanium.
Hodinkee
The G-SHOCK MRG-B5000
The pinnacle of full metal
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: We've Ignored The Cartier Ballon Bleu For Far Too Long
Blowing air into one of the most popular watches floating around.
Hodinkee
The G-SHOCK GMW-B5000MB
The New Interpretation of Black