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Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen has undertaken a comprehensive reworking and refinement of one of its most iconic models, the Portugieser collection. At Watches and Wonders this week in Geneva, four new versions are unveiled: two in white gold with blue and sand-coloured dials and two in Armor Gold with black and silver dials. And there’s more to […]
Worn & Wound
Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...
Deployant
And our last and certainly not the least important appointment for the day is with Parmigiani to witness the launch of the new Toric. Live from WWG24: new releases from Parmigiani One of our favourite brands, Parmigiani Fleurier releases revives the Toric collection. The Toric was first released 28 years ago, Parmigiani’s offering in theRead More
Monochrome
Two years ago, Speak Marin added Ripples, a luxury sports watch, to its repertoire. Although it marks a departure from the brand’s models housed in the distinctive and regal Piccadilly case, some elements of the design language associated with Speake Marin have prevailed. Offered initially with monochromatic dials, Speake Marin’s chic sports watch welcomes a […]
Deployant
We are next at Chronoswiss. They released the next generation with 4 novelties. A new Strike 2 collection and revamp the Resec.
Fratello
Thanks to a watch friend, I finally had a chance to put this watch on my wrist. The Lip Galaxie is stunningly clean and simple. In real life, it looks even better than it does in pictures. Here is my recap of the 24 hours I was granted with this distinctive French watch. But first, […] Visit #TBT The Timeless Lip Galaxie Ref. 43814 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel. This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
We attended the launch event for Gerald Charles on April 8, and here give our impressions of the novelty of the show. The Masterlink.
Monochrome
The definition of an icon is someone or something that is a representative symbol. In watchmaking, we often tout specific models as being iconic, and the term fits perfectly well most of the time. It’s often referred to as a poster-type watch for an entire brand, a specific style of design, or a genre of […]
Fratello
My theoretical-wrist-grail taste has evolved, as has the watch-collecting community. In the face of unavailability and client-selective ADs, independent choices have come to the fore. And despite the shaky world markets, plenty of potential buyers are looking for alternatives outside the big-brand catalogs. Debuting back in 2010 with distinctively minimal luxury and the world’s best-looking […] Visit Introducing: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon - The Brand’s First Lunar Flirtation to read the full article.
Monochrome
Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]
Monochrome
Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]
Deployant
We begin Thursday with Hublot, who released 37 novelties. Here are our highlights Of our top 3 from our touch and feel session.
Monochrome
In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand […]
Fratello
By now, Frederique Constant is famous for its no-nonsense Swiss-made watches. The brand’s Classics collection is at the forefront of its philosophy of offering high-quality watches at a relatively affordable price. This week, at Watches and Wonders, two of the collection’s models are receiving some significant updates and upgrades on both the inside and out. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture to read the full article.
SJX Watches
ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement. Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly. Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards. Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...
Fratello
Today, we look at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar. This is one of my favorite models from the brand and certainly warrants attention whenever it’s updated. It’s never easy to cleanly pack in so many complications, but JLC seems to have pulled it off again. You can call me a heretic, but […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Fratello
What can we expect from Vacheron Constantin when it comes to new introductions? A new version of the 222, maybe some new Overseas variations, and a small number of super complicated pieces that show the brand’s intricate craftsmanship wouldn’t be unreasonable. How about a series of super clean Patrimony models that bring us back to […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces Three New Patrimony Watches Inspired By The Classic Style Of The 1950s to read the full article.
Fratello
Every year at Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin graces us with one or two exceptional pieces that show the brand’s magnificent watchmaking tradition. This year, the brand releases the brilliant Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph that is part of the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. This 50-piece limited edition was created specifically for collectors. It’s a very exclusive […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
It is often said that it is easier to send a person to the Moon than to the ocean floor because of the extreme conditions found at great depths, such as no visibility and overwhelming pressure. However, in 1960 a wristwatch (Rolex “Deep Sea Special”) accompanied mankind to the deepest ocean floor even before it accompanied mankind to the Moon in 1969 (Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch).
Fratello
Hello there! Welcome to a new episode of Fratello Talks. This week, we have decided to discuss a topic we often get asked about - gifting watches. Nacho, RJ, and Daan explore the topic, discussing to whom you should gift a watch and when it’s appropriate to do so. Of course, they also provide some […] Visit Fratello Talks: A Guide To Gifting Watches to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A mere .05mm later, and the new Ultra supplants Richard Mille's 2022 efforts and also claims the record as world's thinnest chronometer-certified watch.
Monochrome
First released in 2019, the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection was met with great success. The brand’s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, it took design cues from a vintage model – the St Mortiz – and adapted it to modern tastes. Specifically, it stands apart with its fascinating textured dial, modelled […]
Hodinkee
It's nearly 320 grams of gold (and some titanium), it has a blue lacquer dial, and I desperately, desperately want to go diving with it.
Worn & Wound
Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....
Worn & Wound
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...
Monochrome
Unveiled in 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph was a spectacular showcase of Vacheron Constantin’s dexterity in combining a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon complication with a twist, thanks to its unconventional layout. Now considered a classic, Vacheron has inducted the Traditionnelle into its hall of fame to become a member of the Excellence Platine club. Crafted […]
Hodinkee
It's not often that a brand starts with a skeletonized watch and works backward, but since when are more options a bad thing?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The first two days of Watches & Wonders have been fun to cover from the perspective of TBWS. Obviously, many of these watches are to be admired from afar and are not typically something we'd be able to add to our personal collections. But damn, it's still exciting - especially over at the Zenith camp. This year alongside their vintage Revival A3648, the brand has introduced the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver, a very modern dive watch entry that showcases Zenith's technical abilities. Much like last year, Zenith may be running as my favorite exhibitor at Watches & Wonders.
SJX Watches
Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...
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