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Quill & Pad
As our eagle-eyed spotter Nick Gould has remarked, not all sports are wristwatch friendly. But luckily there have been some athletes wearing watches while competing, and he and Elizabeth Doerr have seen a few interesting timepieces competing along with their owners in the Olympics. Together, they present four wrists to watch at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Office politics can be a writhing snake-pit of backstabbing and deceit. Unfortunately, to get ahead you’ve got to navigate a path through it. This invariably means finding a way to get along with your idiot boss, which isn’t always easy when your working for an ego maniac who’s paranoid, spiteful and mean. Will … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Is it a bad idea to wear a better watch than your boss? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
We go straight to the source.
Time+Tide
After a 50-year dry spell without a championship title to their name, the Milwaukee Bucks won the 2021 NBA Finals – finally living up to the eight-year-old Brandon Jennings instigated motto: “BUCKS IN SIX”. This year’s victory, while certainly a team effort, can be largely attributed to the stellar performance of Bucks forward Giannis Antetokounmpo … ContinuedThe post BUCKS IN SIX! NBA MVP Giannis Antetokounmpo celebrates victory with a Rolex Sky-Dweller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What sort of watch does a veteran Aussie crocodile hunter wear? Well, Northern Territory Problem Crocodile Management wildlife officer Tom Nichols (how’s that for a job title by the way), caught a record 352 crocodiles in 2020, and in this intriguing story and short film from ABC News he explains how he goes about hunting … ContinuedThe post What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross has long supplied timekeepers to various French military and police units, ranging from the bomb disposal team of the national civil defence agency to the tactical unit of the National Gendarmerie, GIGN. The brand was recently tapped to become the official watchmaker to the Patrouille de France, the famed aeronautics team of the Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace, the French Air and Space Force. To inaugurate the partnership, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, a limited edition designed in collaboration with the nine pilots of the aerobatics team. Cased in matte black ceramic, the chronograph has a dial in the colours of the French flag, along with the team logo at six o’clock. It is a 500-piece limited edition available to the public, while team members of the Patrouille de France will be issued with the same watch, but powered by a quartz movement. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross has made a variety of air force-unit watches in the past, as have other brands. Breitling, for instance, recently debuted an edition dedicated to the Red Arrows, the aerobatics team of the Royal Air Force. The Patrouille de France edition, however, stands apart in an important aspect: the members of the Patrouille de France – nine pilots and 35 engineers – are actually kitted out with an almost-identical watch. Produced in a run of 100 watches, the official-issue team watch is identical to the civilian version featured here, but it has a quartz movement ...
SJX Watches
While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...
Time+Tide
There’s a line usually attributed to Albert Einstein that claims that “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results.” Unfortunately, this brutal logic can apply to watches, too. You buy a particular timepiece but, after the initial honeymoon period wears off, you realise that it’s perhaps no longer as indispensable … ContinuedThe post I just can’t quit you! The watches that we’ve bought, sold and bought again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet has an unexpectedly long history in military watches dating back over a century, but its best known military timepieces are undoubtedly the aviator’s chronographs made for the mid-century French Air Force and navy. It was one such watch that inspired the Type 20 Only Watch 2019. For this year’s Only Watch auction, Breguet turned pivoted to the civilian-market equivalent with the Type XX Only Watch 2021. Breguet incorporated details not found on the 2019 watch, namely a “Big Eye” register as well as a 12-hour bezel. Together, this and its predecessor form a perfect pair that encapsulate Breguet’s 20th century pilot’s chronographs. Initial thoughts The result achieved by the Type 20 at Only Watch 2019 – Breguet has supported the charity since its inauguration in 2005 – makes the motivation behind yet another pilot’s watch clear. While the technically-impressive in-line perpetual calendar created for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF110,000, the Type 20 achieved fetched CHF210,000 – twice as much despite being a steel watch with a simple movement. The Type XX conveniently sticks to the same formula, making it almost interchangeable with the Type 20 at a distance. Most obvious is the milk-chocolate dial, which evokes the aged “tropical” dials of vintage examples. The rich, even colour allows it to stand on its own as a modern-day take on an old look. It’s achieves a nostalgic feel without trying too hard. But it is in exactly the same shade as ...
Time+Tide
“Ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, two, one (wristwatches fellas)…” With its recognisable intro, Netflix’s original docuseries, This Is Pop, takes off and guides you through some of the biggest moments in pop history. From the explosion of Boyz II Men and their addictive harmonies, to the music festivals that defined a generation, … ContinuedThe post From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys – watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded in 2013 by veteran movement constructor Rémi Maillat, Krayon made its debut with the impressive, enormously complex mechanical computer that calculates sunrise and sunset times in any location. It followed up with the more affordable Anywhere, which strikes a better balance between complexity and user friendliness. And now for Only Watch 2021, Krayon is taking the Anywhere to the next level with a metiers d’art dial. The Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 features a lacquer dial inspired by Monet’s Impression, Sunrise. Initial thoughts The standard Anywhere is compelling to begin with, complex but executed in thoughtful manner. Despite being ultra complicated – the movement is made up of over 430 components, rivalling a split-seconds chronograph – the Anywhere is rather easy to read and operate, as well as being wearable at just 39 mm wide and 9.5 mm high. But the original design arguably left room for improvement. The hour markers, for instance, seem to interrupt the styling of the dial. And it appears that the Only Watch edition has picked up where the original left off by refining the dial design. The highlight is the dial centre that’s a reinterpretation of Impression, Sunrise by Claude Monet, a thematically-congruent decoration since both the watch and painting are centred on the Sun. Like the painting, the dial is Impressionist in its execution: the Sun rising over water is only visible at a distance. Also notable is the movement inside, which is...
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross has long featured the skull on its watches, a motif derived from its military-inspired designs. Modelled on the skull emblem often used by airborne units, the B&R; skull watch has been refined over the years, with the latest being an all-ceramic wristwatch incorporating an automaton. For Only Watch 2021, the watchmaker has created the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire, a vivid, orange-tinted crystal skull encased in clear sapphire. It’s entirely incongruent with the brand’s typical no-no-nonsense aesthetic, but strikingly upbeat. Initial thoughts The original Cyber Skull is interesting for its materials and form movement featuring an automaton, making it a good base for the Only Watch edition, which departs from the all-black look in the direction of attractive and quirky. Bell & Ross didn’t disappoint in its Only Watch endeavour. Clean, contemporary, and clear, the sapphire version is completely different from its past skull watches. The watch has a bright feel, with the orange being bringing levity (and echoing the colours of Only Watch 2021). And it’s a big plus that the watch is technically unusual. While most B&R; watches are powered by off-the-shelf ETA or Sellita movements (which, to be fair are unfailingly reliable), the Cyber Skull Sapphire is equipped with a proprietary movement in the shape of a skull. It’s always the most valuable watches offered by high horology brands that get the most attention at Only Watch, so the more affordable watches in ...
Time+Tide
Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Ghostly International founder Sam Valenti on the brand's first watch collaboration.
Hodinkee
Some might say it's an Ironwoman.
Hodinkee
Our latest collaboration with Montblanc not only features one of the greatest chronograph movements on the market, but also includes a once in a lifetime trip to Villeret with the HODINKEE Team.
Time+Tide
After picking my jaw off the ground, I was surprised by my wide-eyed delight with Artisans de Genève’s irreverent take on the Rolex Daytona. I was surprised because, truth be told, this is not a model I am particularly enamored with. I’ve had my fill of all the endless fawning over vintage Daytonas. In fact, … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a wild blue remix from Artisans de Genève appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Amongst the projects to tackle climate change that’s being supported by Rolex was the successful scientific expedition to Tupungato, a dormant volcano that’s one of the highest mountains in Americas that sits on the border of Chile and Argentina. Led by National Geographic and backed by the Chilean government, the expedition team embarked on a 15-day trek up Tupungato in early April to install a weather station just below the summit – 6,505 m above sea level – that’s the highest weather installation in the Southern and Western Hemispheres. The purpose of the expedition was, of course, not to explore the uncharted; such endeavours had their heyday in the postwar era, with Rolex keeping time for many of them. Instead the watchmaker supports scientists and conservationists on expeditions that aid understanding of climate change and its effects – all of which are part of the Perpetual Planet initative. Tupungato National Geographic A pillar of Perpetual Planet is Rolex’s partnership with National Geographic, the iconic, yellow-bordered magazine of the National Geographic Society. The partnership seeks to understand and address the impact of climate change, through expeditions and field research that harness data taken at crucial locations that are often harsh and inaccessible. The partnership’s first expedition took place in 2019, when a team travelled up Mount Everest to set up the highest-altitude weather station in the world – 8,430 m above sea level ...
Time+Tide
You never really know what to expect from a brand collaboration. When I first saw that Aston Martin had teamed up with Girard-Perregaux, courtesy of the gorgeous green-liveried Formula 1 team, I assumed that we’d soon see the likes of Sebastian Vettel and Lance Stroll sporting something like a special-edition Laureato in British Racing Green. … ContinuedThe post A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux announced a new partnership with Aston Martin, most famous for being the carmaker of choice for James Bond. The watchmaker also signed on as a sponsor of the Aston Martin Cognizant Formula One racing team, but a collaborative watch was absent, until now. Girard-Perregaux has just taken the covers off the inaugural watch of the partnership, the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition, a sleek, modern interpretation of the watchmaker’s signature complication. Initial thoughts When the partnership was first revealed, the first watch that came to mind was an auto-racing chronograph on an integrated bracelet, making the all-black tourbillon a bit of a surprise. But the integrated-bracelet sports watch is now commonplace, so I am glad Girard-Perregaux went with the Flying Bridges tourbillon, a complication unique to the brand. The tourbillon movement is, of course, an evolution of the brand’s iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges that was invented in the mid-19th century and found in Girard-Perregaux’s finest pocket watches, including one that was sold to the then President of Mexico, the famous “La Esmeralda”. A decidedly more classical version of Girard-Perregaux’s tourbillon That said, the Aston Martin edition isn’t entirely new – the watch is actually based on the Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges launched in 2018, but the new movement has been skeletonised even further, hence the “Floating” b...
Time+Tide
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is well on its way to being a modern classic. Launched just seven years ago in 2014 and drawing off the sharp Italian geometry of the Octo Roma, it is a collection that has gone from strength to strength, breaking world records for thinness on average once every year. That’s right, … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Bulgari Octo Finissimo: What the owners’ experience is really like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Since January of 2016, secondary market prices of stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus models have surged in a fashion rarely seen. This phenomenon – and it is that – is exceptional for reasons including the relative age of the models involved, the magnitude of the surge, and the speed with which it struck. Here Tim Mosso takes a closer look at the current secondary market insanity of the Nautilus.
Time+Tide
Like I say in this video, separating what’s “actually” new versus what a brand tells you is new, and what’s truly innovative from the marketing spin is practically a daily task in watch media. Do. Not. Believe. The. Press. Releases. So, when you ask four hardened hacks from the field for four watches that were … ContinuedThe post RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch collecting can be intimidating for beginners with many people scared off by the exorbitant price tags. But you can get high quality watches at lower price points and, when it comes to presenting value-driven novelties, Seiko reigns supreme. The brand is particularly strong when it comes to diving watches, having perfected their offering since … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SPB213J1 is a modern diver offering versatility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
I’m familiar with IWC pilot’s watches, having once owned a Mark XVII, which I bought as the quintessential flieger watch. But the Mark XVII didn’t last too long in my collection because it is very much military-inspired, and I’m not much of a military man, making it hard for me to connect with the design. When I got the chance to test drive the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (ref. IW3881) – the latest version of IWC’s longstanding bestseller – I figured it was an opportunity to see if the fliegerchronograph would appeal to me where the time-only Mark XVII did not. Initial thoughts On paper, the 41 mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph is an evolution rather than a revolution, perhaps unsurprising given how popular successive versions of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph have been over the three decades they have been in the catalogue. The various elements that make up the watch are familiar – the blue dial can be found on the larger “Le Petit Prince” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph from 2016, while the cal. 69000-family movement inside a reduced, 41 mm case was exactly the revamped Spitfire Pilot’s Watch Chronograph launched in 2019. But still, the new chronograph manages to be a whole that’s greater than the sum of its parts. While constituent parts might be similar, but they arguably work better together here than in any prior watch. I was surprised at how much I liked the watch. For one, the 41 mm case is significantly more wearable than the previous-g...
Revolution
Deployant
We take a look at the latest offerings from IWC, specifically the Big Pilot's collection, straight from Watches and Wonders 2021.
Time+Tide
Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Get to know the new Louis Vuitton timepieces
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