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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet explores new materials Sep 22, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials

This is the fourth video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research and … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: Audemars Piguet explores new materials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? Time+Tide
Breitling use As we saw Sep 22, 2021

Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT?

I first encountered Norqain in the metal at the COUTURE Watch & Jewellery show in Las Vegas. I had heard of the brand prior, and one of the headlining aspects of their watches are their manufacture calibers developed with Kenissi – the same movement developer that Tudor, Chanel, and Breitling use. As we saw in … ContinuedThe post Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds Sep 21, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics

You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva Time+Tide
Tudor Manufacture Sep 21, 2021

Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva

Having joined the Time+Tide team during the pandemic, the tantalising prospect of travelling to watch events and industry launches was for a long time taken off the table. Instead I was bound to my chair, where I would sit writing each day for hours until I became worried that my skin would actually graft onto … ContinuedThe post Dreams really do come true: My visit to the Tudor Manufacture in Geneva appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” Sep 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest”

Today is a neat day for the watch community, and especially for VIP Vacheron Constantin collectors. When I received this press release, I had to pinch myself to see if I was dreaming. Fortunately I wasn’t. When Vacheron Constantin first debuted their prototype Overseas, made for adventurer and photographer Cory Richards to wear on his … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Limited Editions “Everest” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep Time+Tide
Rolex Deep Sea Special – Sep 20, 2021

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep

Early November will see Phillips auction a very unusual, and not made for public, Rolex Deep Sea Special. This watch was based on the experimental Rolex that rode the outside of the Trieste bathyscaphe that, in January 1960, dove to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 10,900 metres deep. Following the successful dive and … ContinuedThe post Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands Time+Tide
Sep 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands

I remember a time when many within the watch community spoke of microbrands like they were some passing phase – an unfortunate result of someone with too much time on their hands and not enough sense. To these pundits, the watches that microbrands were offering would always be lesser-than anything a major, established brand could … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Three things collectors still get wrong about microbrands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate

EDITOR’S NOTE:  The old excuse that “imitation is the sincerest form of flattery” doesn’t always cut it (just ask any convicted counterfeiter). But perhaps we shouldn’t be too hasty to judge. As James explains here, sometimes a watch may look like a knock-off but actually hold its horological own. Few things in watch world conjure … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 4 watches that look like rip-offs that are actually legitimate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin was Sep 18, 2021

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love…

My Vacheron Constantin is actually a watch I inherited rather than bought. When my grandfather passed, nobody in my family was aware the watch existed. My father found it amongst a few other watches in his bedside drawer (including his daily Tag Heuer 1500, which I now own as well). When I got the text … ContinuedThe post My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’ Time+Tide
Sep 17, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’

Hello, friends! It’s Andrew here, even though the author of this Wind Down probably says Zach. I’m jumping in at the top of the weekly-watch-related-wrap-we-all-wait-for, to announce that the world has a peppy new power duo to contend with. Step off Flight of the Conchords, there’s a box-fresh creative couple of blokes ready to walk … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Time+Tide
Blancpain who each began production Sep 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961

Let’s take a quick dip into diving watch history. The brands who really birthed the category as we know it today are Rolex/Tudor and Blancpain – who each began production of their dive watches in 1953 (it should also be noted that Zodiac introduced their Sea Wolf diver in 1953 as well). Brands such as … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The return of the Rainbow Diver Limited Edition! The 2021 Mido Decompression Timer 1961 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet grand complication Sep 16, 2021

Exhibition: Exquisite Pocket Watches in Singapore

A vintage watch dealer based in Singapore, 2ToneVintage is staging an exhibition that goes down a road less travelled in modern watch collecting – vintage pocket watches instead of the usual fare of wristwatches. The exhibition is open to the public from now till September 30, 2021, but registration is required due to venue capacity limits. Titled The Beginning, the show is made up of several dozen impressive specimens that represent the diversity of pocket watches, ranging from an Ilbery enamel for the Chinese market to a one-off Audemars Piguet grand complication to a Patek Philippe world time with a cloisonné dial. A timeline on the walls of the exhibition charts the development of watchmaking Most of the watches on show belong to Ali Nael, an oil trader who switched careers to found 2ToneVintage. Consequently, a good portion of the exhibition reflects his taste in timepieces – many of the timepieces are mid 20th century watches with elegant two-tone dials in champagne or pink gold. Examples from the early- to mid-20th century dominate the exhibition, with Patek Philippe being the most numerous. The watches largely fall into two categories: simple, time-only watches with delicate details or enamelling, and the highly complicated. Time-only The time-only examples include the Patek Philippe ref. 650 “Flying Saucer” – named after its wide, flat bezel – from 1937 that has a handsome. two-tone contrasting dial. And standing out against the classical style of ...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Sep 15, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium

The current generation Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has become the favourite platform for national or regional editions, with Audemars Piguet (AP), having debuted almost ten different versions over the last few years, including limited runs for China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. And the brand has just taken the covers off a special edition for the American market (at least initially, with other countries getting a shot at the watch later on): the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41 mm in titanium with an unusual, two-tone tapisserie guilloche dial in grey and blue. Initial thoughts The blue tapisserie dial is so familiar that the new Perpetual Calendar doesn’t seem new on its face. In fact, it might pass for the steel version with a blue dial, with only the grey sub-dials setting the two apart. That said, the latest Royal Oak perpetual is a good-looking watch, with a handsome, restrained style and colours that echo the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402. Traditionally, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have sub-dials that match the dial, but contrasting calendar registers actually makes sense since they distinguish between the functions. The two-tone dial on the latest model does that, while adding visual contrast. At the distance the two colours might not be obvious, but they will certainly be apparent up close. The hands and markers are white gold In addition to the contrasting sub-dials, the case metal is also relatively uncommon for a Royal Oak – the very first Royal Oak Perpe...

VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel Time+Tide
Mido Sep 14, 2021

VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel

The dive watch category is among the most popular, if not the most popular category, with buyers of today. It’s quite a saturated segment, with many of the novelties inevitably sharing recycled design cues necessary for a diver. So, when a dive watch is released with a standout aesthetic it is worth taking notice – … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition with a fresh silver dial and turquoise bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Sep 13, 2021

Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos

For my 50th birthday my partner, Liz, asked me if there was anything from the Tudor range that I liked. This was incredibly impressive on two fronts. The first is that Liz is not really a watch person but has absorbed an awful lot of watch information just due to my obsession. Second, although I … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the curiously underrated Tudor Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.