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Fratello
On June 3rd, 1965, Ed White was the first NASA astronaut to perform a spacewalk. White, who died during the horrible accident with Apollo 1 on January 27th, 1967, performed his EVA (extravehicular activity) wearing the famous Speedmaster 105.003. Therefore, we decided to come up with a new Fratello × REM Speedmaster strap available in […] Visit The May 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Spacewalk to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In 2022 MB&F; launched its first ever chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO. A twin-chronograph constructed by Stephen McDonnell, it was a clever reinterpretation of the split-seconds function. Today MB&F; upgrades the concept with the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum that boasts a revised movement incorporating an additional flyback function. Initial thoughts The LM Sequential Flyback is certainly polarising in terms of style and technique, like most MB&F; creations. The original Sequential EVO was praised for its exceptional and creative movement construction, though the utility of the twin chronograph was debated. The LM Sequential Flyback now adds a flyback function to the package, which may seem excessive. But that misses the point: the question of utility needn’t be answered nor asked. Such a timepiece goes far past the realm of practicality and needs to be judged simply by what it is: an incredible concept painstakingly executed. We already explored in detail how Mr McDonnell implemented the Twinverter system of double chronographs mechanisms while making the complex movement chronometrically-potent, despite the obvious challenges. I recommend reading the original story, as it thoroughly explains the beautiful mechanical subtleties of the watch. In the original Sequential EVO, the layered and complex construction of the movement meant the flyback function couldn’t be reliably implemented. Mr McDonnell ultimately dropped the idea and focused on perfecting the rest of t...
SJX Watches
IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...
Fratello
Luminescent materials have been a part of watchmaking for generations. The use of radioactive materials in the last century was fundamental in the design of tool watches that could allow the owner an opportunity to tell the time in darkened conditions. Thankfully, we no longer have to rely on radioactive materials to achieve this outcome, […] Visit IWC Reveals Ceralume With The First Fully Luminous Ceramic Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
2024 marks a significant milestone for the Tornado multirole combat aircraft: 50 years ago, on August 14, 1974, the first Tornado prototype took off from Manching, Germany. This event launched what would become Europe’s most extensive military aircraft collaboration program, resulting in nearly 1,000 Tornados delivered to the air forces of Germany, Italy, the United […]
SJX Watches
Antoine Simonin (1938-2024), who died on May 20 at the age of 84, left his mark on generations of watchmakers and watchmaking enthusiasts. He will be best remembered as the director of WOSTEP (Watches Of Switzerland Training Educational Program) from 1976 to 2003. Simonin was a person obsessed with the transmission of watchmaking knowledge, and sought to make WOSTEP an instrument for the international dissemination of watchmaking mastery. Founded in 1966, WOSTEP sought to train watchmakers capable of maintaining and repairing Swiss-made watches according to the standards laid out by their makers, the Swiss watch industry. Over time, its courses have been taught in English, French, German, Japanese, Swedish, and Mandarin. “I studied at WOSTEP under Antoine Simonin in 1987 and 1991,” says Peter Speake, the watchmaker best known for founding Speake-Marin, “He was instrumental in keeping WOSTEP going during that difficult industry period, subsequently influencing the careers and friendships of many watchmakers, directly and indirectly, playing a significant role in the lives of many crossing multiple generations.” Recounts another student, Paul Francis Madden, now himself an instructor at WOSTEP, “I was a student in 1987, back when the staff at WOSTEP was only Mr Simonin and his wife Josiane… It came to showing him my first hairspring… He slowly spun my balance wheel in his callipers, scrutinising it for what seemed like an eternity, and all without saying a sing...
Fratello
Life on Mars is around the corner. That is what some science-fiction movies are telling us, at least. The people who are properly interested in the story know much must be done to make that a reality. But plenty of scientific initiatives are researching life on the Red Planet. If you are a fan of […] Visit Hands-On With The Fortis Novonaut AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer to read the full article.
Fratello
Recently, Zodiac and RedBar released a special edition of the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver. This 200-piece LE introduced a full-lume dial and harked back to Zodiac’s Point series from the 1990s. Those watches were instantly recognizable by the red dot on the dial between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. As a follow-up to the […] Visit Zodiac Introduces The Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver With A Full-Lume Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
The use of luminescent materials on watches is far from new… Soon after the discovery of radium and its properties (and dangers…) by Marie and Pierre Curie in 1898, watch dials – markers, numerals and hands – have been coated with radium and then different substances (tritium, Super-LumiNova) to produce light in the dark. Fully […]
Time+Tide
It's easy to typecast Breguet as a brand that is strictly rooted in tradition, but there are various shades to Breguet and its collections.The post Three shades of Breguet – Classique, Type XX, Marine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From tolling bells to settling disputes, Buffy explores how minute repeaters were shaped by history.The post The history of minute repeaters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
William Wood is well known for its firefighter-themed portfolio like the Fire Exit Watch, Triumph Chronographs and The Red Watch, but this latest piece goes above and beyond the norm. The brand is calling it the “greatest watch in our company’s history” and it’s certainly worthy of that title. Jonny Garrett, grandson of William Wood […]
Deployant
We take a look at the perfect 6 watch collection for a watch collector, as recommended by the latest Meta AI powered by the Llama 3 AI engine.
Fratello
By now, it’s pretty clear William Wood has gone all in with its firefighting-themed watches. For its latest creation, the brand pays homage to the sea with a dial inspired by the twin telegraphs of the Massey Shaw fireboat. This vessel played a part in the Dunkirk evacuation in 1940, saving 600 lives, and the […] Visit Introducing: The William Wood Dunkirk Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
For regular readers, it’s no real surprise that we have a deep-rooted passion for indie watchmaking; in fact, it is the very reason for our existence. Although we tend to cover much more than high-end artisanal watchmaking, independent watchmaking forms part of our core. Uncovering new brands and projects from all corners of the globe genuinely […]
Time+Tide
Chronographs with date wheels that go up to 39, maharajas' pocket watches, and vintage Breitling are the stomping grounds for this gentleman.The post Eastern connection: a conversation with author and super-collector Aashdin K. Billimoria appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Grab a cup of coffee, and get ready for a new Sunday Morning Showdown. For this week’s battle, we have selected two new Tudor introductions. During Watches and Wonders this year, many watch fans agreed that Tudor’s releases were more exciting than Rolex’s. So what if we put two popular Tudor watches up against each […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Many independents are launching more and more new models and big box brands are not far behind with some interesting additions to their collection.The post New releases from Ming, Timex, F.P. Journe and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
For me, Rolex had a golden era. It was from the middle of the last century right up until the mid-2000s. Many of our fellow enthusiasts and collectors seem to share this impression and veer towards this long period of Rolex design in their horological journeys. Why is this the case? I think it’s probably […] Visit My First Rolex: The Oyster Perpetual 1002 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Both Morgan and Pininfarina are household names when it comes to car design. The British firm is known for its hand-built retro-styled roadsters and three-wheeled playthings, while the Italian studio is arguably one of the best in the business of designing show-stopping and supremely elegant cars. Both share over 200 years of coachbuilding history and […]
Fratello
I’m sorry; I misunderstood the task at hand. This is not about me being given €7,500 to spend on three watches… I’ve reluctantly given myself a purchasing embargo, and for an addict, that’s not easy, hence the happy outburst. But I still relish the challenge of picking the best watches under €2,500, which is not […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thor’s Picks From Tissot, SpaceOne, And Sinn to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Joining the brand's 'Operations' capsule collection, the Net OPS and Skeleton X OPS divers bring an avant-garde approach to tactical watchmaking.
Deployant
Just a little after a month from Watches and Wonders, the Watchmaker's watchmaker Jaeger Le-Coultre released a new watch (Polaris Geographic) and introduced new dial colours to the Polaris line.
Monochrome
Summer is in the air, and the holiday season is just around the corner. As a brand that has never been shy of colour, Oris proposes two watermelon-coloured models for its versatile Aquis Date 41.5mm dive watch. Perfect for outdoor activities but smart enough to wear daily, the Aquis Date collection was recently refreshed. The […]
SJX Watches
In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...
Fratello
Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s been a few years since Ming released the massively popular 18.01 H41 dive watch, and fans of the brand have been clamoring for more ever since. It would have been easy enough for Ming to re-release the 18.01, maybe with a new colorway, but the brand is not one to rest on their past successes and the Ming 37.09 Bluefin is far more than a slight update to a familiar model. Instead, Ming has completely re-thought what a dive watch from Ming can be, and the results are absolutely stunning - and quintessentially Ming. If you follow Ming on social media, the release of the 37.09 Bluefin today shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. After all, the brand has been posting throwbacks and teasers left and right to get us all excited about this release. Today, we get to see the new watch: A 600 meter water-resistant, dual crown diver inspired by the architecture of Ming’s recent 37-series watches, complete with Ming’s signature flared lugs and a preposterous preponderance of lume. Whether putting out affordable time-only watches or ultra-light record-setters and wild tourbillons, Ming has been unafraid and uncompromising. This details-first approach might help to explain why it took so long for Ming to follow up on the 18.01. Apparently, Ming experimented with several successors to their first dive watch, focusing on outperforming the 1000 meter water-resistant dive watch on a technical level. Eventually, after producing several prototypes at thicknesses creeping up to ...
Worn & Wound
For nearly a decade, Chase Fancher and his team at Oak & Oscar, along with their partners, have not only been creating great and sporty timepieces, but they have also been creating a community. To them, the people that purchase their watches are not customers, they are owners. As such, the community has been asking for a new Oak & Oscar chronograph for quite some time. Especially since their Jackson Big-Eye was discontinued. The Jackson, you’ll recall, was a 40mm x 14mm 30-minute chronograph, with flyback function, and it housed a manual wind Eterna Caliber 39 movement. The community’s prayers have now been answered with the new Oak & Oscar Atwood. Just like its predecessor, it is also a proper Flyback chronograph, but this one can time intervals up to 12-hours. Instead of the Eterna caliber 39, it houses an AMT5100M caliber, which is a product of Sellita’s high-end skunkworks AMT division. It is a 23 jeweled, manually wound chronograph with a 58-hour power-reserve, and with the crisp, tactile satisfaction of its blued column wheel you’ll find excuses to time anything. You will also find all the usual Oak & Oscar refinements, including a sandwich dial, a signature high-contrast extra-long chrono seconds hand, and each subdial features subtle yet bright hints of orange that increase the legibility of the timing function. There is also a subtle nod to their first chronograph, which includes a wrapped tachymeter scale along the rehaut that goes to 54 units. As they li...
Monochrome
Let’s get straight to the point, as there are a few important things to know about this watch. This is a new, unprecedented watch, despite being a commemorative and limited piece. It is also the first hand-wound chronograph (no split-seconds) of F.P. Journe. It is released in the frame of the 20th anniversary of the […]
Worn & Wound
Each Windup Watch Fair is special in its own way. We make memories, strengthen old connections, make new ones, and hopefully walk away with a cool watch on our wrists. But speak to anyone who attended the 2024 Windup Watch Fair and EDC Expo in San Francisco, and they’ll instantly tell you there was something extra special happening there. The Venue This was the first time that we held the Fair at Gateway Pavilion, a two-level, open-floor plan environment on Pier 2, within the Fort Mason complex, an arts and culture campus operated by the National Parks Department. With its stunning views, ample natural light, and wide-open arrangement, it became an ideal place to bring enthusiasts together. The Brands All in all, we ended up having 94 unique and incredible brands participate in the show between both watch and non-watch companies-the largest Windup to date. We want to give a massive thank you to each and every sponsor who came to the event and a special thanks to our Lead Sponsors: Alpina, anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, and Oris. It was incredible to see the wide variety of new watches and products at the Fair, many of which were launched to the world for the first time at the event itself. You could literally feel the enthusiasm in the air! The Enthusiasts Speaking of enthusiasm, the crowds that came each day of the three-day event were energized and engaged. Thousands flocked to our Fort Mason venue to soak in both the products and the panels! They came to lear...
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