Deployant
Comprehensive review: New Citizen Series 8 870 – the affordable alternative
We go hands-on with this comprehensive review of the flagship of Citizen's new Series 8 mechanical watches - the Model 830.
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Deployant
We go hands-on with this comprehensive review of the flagship of Citizen's new Series 8 mechanical watches - the Model 830.
SJX Watches
A relentless pursuit of diminishing returns seems to be the norm in the world of high-end watchmaking. Better finishing, lightness, longer power reserve, or chronometric performance, refined and enhanced to the nth degree – there is always something to improve, but by tinier and tinier margins. Brands and watchmakers, in turn, often develop a specific niche, trying to best each other with ever-smaller improvements. In the niche of ultra-thin watches, there are only a handful of serious players. Piaget is one such player. The brand’s forte is thickness, or rather, thinness – Piaget has held the record for the thinnest production watch on multiple occasions, with only a handful of rivals able to best its various records. And now it’s the reigning champ once again with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC). Just 2 mm high in its entirety, the AUC is so thin it looks almost like an optical illusion in photos – and a prop in real life. But it is a perfectly functional – and water-resistant – mechanical wristwatch. So the question is, how did Piaget do it? And of course, do the diminishing marginal gains justify the retail price of approximately 400,000 Swiss francs? Altiplano evolution Prior to the AUC, Piaget’s best-known attempt at the crown was the Altiplano 900P. Released in 2013, the Altiplano 900P stands just 3.65 mm high. It held the record of the thinnest mechanical watch on the market until 2015, when the title taken by Piaget’s sister brand, Jaeg...
Quill & Pad
As Zenith is a sponsor of the Swiss Open in Gstaad, Elizabeth Doerr had the opportunity to attend the 2021 edition where she handled a number of Zenith’s most recent watch releases, falling in love with two in particular: the new Chronomaster Original and Chronomaster Sport Gold, both powered by the legendary (and now updated) El Primero chronograph movement.
Time+Tide
As COVID restrictions ease in New York, one of the things I am very excited to bring back into my life is going to the cinema to see a film. While we are all very used to streaming content at home, there is something magical about watching a movie in the theatre and taking it … ContinuedThe post Oscar Isaac sports a Piaget Polo S in upcoming film “The Card Counter” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...
Time+Tide
The watch community hit peak frustration last week, irked by the sale of a still-sealed, green dial steel Nautilus for $490,000 USD. Flipping is rife in this hobby, and many see it as the largest problem in watch collecting today – a practice that makes it harder to secure in-demand timepieces. Sure, it’s nothing new, … ContinuedThe post Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Fit and Finish”. If you search watch forums enough or eyeball videos on Youtube, you will undoubtedly run into this term. Initially, I had an inkling as to what it was referencing, but I hadn’t grasped its importance or whether I should even care. But as I started to dig deeper, I began to get … ContinuedThe post What does the “fit and finish” of a watch actually mean and should I even care? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Unlike my erudite and learned colleagues on this website, those who have read this column in the past will know my horological lusts aren’t governed by the usual parameters. Which is my way of saying that a bargain is where I’m at. To paraphrase the great Billy Connolly: “My dad was so tight he’d wake … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Undone Urban 34 Killy Black Rose is a $300 tangerine dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The winningest Olympian talks timing technology, swimming philosophy, and the sport he's most excited to watch at this year's Games.
We take Certina's value dive watch to the depths of a tropical sea ... in the middle of the Utah desert.
Hodinkee
We go straight to the source.
Revolution
Massena LAB announces three new color additions to the Uni-Racer to mark the summer of 2021, limited to just 35 watches in each color.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right – especially since the case and movement are modern – something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...
SJX Watches
While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...
Time+Tide
When assessing any dive watch, comparisons to the iconic Rolex Submariner are inevitably going to pop up. But the other day in the Time+Tide office, Andrew happened to be wearing his brand new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze while Matt’s trusty Rolex Submariner 114060 was dangling from his wrist. So they decided to put their … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rolex Submariner vs the Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Every time I encounter a new Farer, I’m looking forward to a double delight. This brand specialises in juxtaposing a very British sense of elegance with an unreserved flourish of colour. The closest thing I can equate the Farer Lander IV GMT to is the Savile Row tailoring of Oswald Boateng, whose immaculate silhouettes are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Lander IV GMT puts a British twist on a classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
With the recent news on the space race, we take a look at a watch collection that is synoymous with space: Omega Speedmaster.
Quill & Pad
To the “right” person and for the “right” price anything can be customized – whisky, cars, shampoo, and, of course, timepieces. This second article in Chris Malburg’s watch customization trilogy shines a light on the high-end of the watch customization spectrum, uncovering three uber-exclusive brands that work in the stratosphere of the customization price range revealing what it takes to get the job done.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: The G-Shock remains an enduring favourite for combining a super-tough build with a very accessible price point. But with the brand now launching watches in new materials those prices are starting to creep up. So does the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM still provide bang for its buck? Zach looks back at his first month with … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Is the shockingly light G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM in titanium worth the price premium? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, as I was relegated to the confines of a New York City apartment for weeks on end, binge watching shows became the best way to pass time. In all those months, I found no show did a better job of this than the original Gossip Girl. Rich teenagers, crazy plots and ridiculous cliffhangers … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: The IWC watch that had a starring role in Gossip Girl appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Our favorite watches for the sunniest, sweatiest season.
Time+Tide
This is a new era for our Friday Wind Down. The recurring column has previously served as a recap of the stories published on the site, but you know what? We’ve decided to make it so much more. Now that this ‘Merican is behind the wheel, I want to take this moment to review the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Nautilus scandal and Jeff Bezos’ Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
What we learned from the KPMG report.
Time+Tide
Nearly everything about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been surprising. “Game changer” is a phrase overused to a point of redundancy, but that’s what this watch has done for Zenith. From the day it dropped, it has raised eyebrows of watch lovers and shattered ceilings for the manufacture, who produces a staggering 50 times less … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 surprising things we learned about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, including why there’s a wait list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We continue with Kunal Khemka telling us stories from his home in India with a presentation of the Bangalore Watch Company Cover Drive The Outfield.
Time+Tide
At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual is pure WIS geekery wrapped up in a totally classic – and Germanic – design. But maybe your outfit calls for something else? In that case, Elizabeth Doerr suggests the new Saxonia Thin with aventurine dial, which she finds irresistible.
Time+Tide
Over a quarter of a million people agreed with meme accounts like the one below when they declared that Bezos’ NATO over outer suit style was “the most f*cked up thing” he has ever done. The truth, however, may be even sadder (or cuter, depending on your viewpoint) than just an unfortunate styling faux pas. … ContinuedThe post People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is quietly marking the 15th anniversary of its flagship complication with the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel. It was, in fact, this very simple and smart perpetual calendar that helped put the brand on the map when it was revived in 2005 (while the original brand was established in 1828). Like the commemorative edition made for its 10th anniversary – which was essentially a fancy pocket watch with a strap – the new perpetual calendar is a departure from the brand’s typical design and instead relies on more classical flourishes, most notably an enamelled dial and case band. But true to the brand’s inclinations, the design remains relatively clean, largely to the concise calendar display. A subtle perpetual calendar Initial thoughts Moser’s perpetual calendar has long been applauded – for good reason. For one, the display is an elegant alternative to the typical, in-your-face layout made up of multiple sub-dials. Despite being less, the Moser perpetual manages to do more, being eminently legible. And the calendar is also convenient in a tactile sense – it can be set forwards as well as backwards. But being introduced 15 years ago, the complication is now familiar, familiar enough that it might be forgotten. The presentation then becomes important. And here the new edition is successful. Being part of the Heritage collection, the new model is quite different the brand’s usual offerings, like the Pioneer and Endeavour. In...
Time+Tide
Longines is well known for producing important pilot’s watches in the 1930s and gorgeous dress watches in the ’50s. But one area that’s sometimes overlooked, is Longines’ impressive track record with dive watches. From as early as 1937, Longines was making strides in the race to make a functional and truly water-resistant watch when they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A short history of Longines dive watches in the glorious ’60s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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