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Reference · Guide
All Tudor Black Bay References Tudor

Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.

Exclusive · Guide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 "Bumblebee": A Smaller Chrono with a Lot to Say

Tudor finally gets the Black Bay Chrono down to 39mm, and the first version out of the gate wears a yellow-and-black "Bumblebee" dial. Here's what changes, what it costs, and why the size matters more than the colour.

Icon · Guide
Black Bay Tudor

The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Tudor Black Bay 58 Tudor

39 mm × 11.9 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. MT5402

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces May 14, 2025

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer

Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families.  The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly.  Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...

First Look - The New Oris Aquis Taste of Summer ‘Berries Edition’ Capsule Collection Monochrome
Oris Aquis Taste May 5, 2025

First Look - The New Oris Aquis Taste of Summer ‘Berries Edition’ Capsule Collection

Last year, Oris whet our appetite with two watermelon-coloured 41.5mm dive models, which added a fresh new look to the Aquis Date series, already featuring quite a variety of dial options, including dark green, blue, black, cherry red, and the upcycled, multi-coloured one. For this summer season, the Hölstein-based brand gets a bit more poetic […]

Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds May 2, 2025

Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection

In the year and three months since they reintroduced the El Primero Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Zenith has been cooking up new references and colorways for the crowd-favorite complication. Next in this wave is the new 18k Rose Gold & Black model, wrapped in the ever-popular material and boasting the same sportiness mixed with refinement that the Triple Calendar has become known for.  Housed in a 38mm case (46mm lug-to-lug) and sharing proportions with previous stainless steel models, the new Rose Gold variant also features hour markers, subdials, and hands in the material-and coated in SuperLuminova SLN C1- to contrast the sleek black of the dial. A matching black calfskin leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp completes the look, giving the Chronomaster a profile that oscillates between elegant and intimidating.  Inside, the new Chronomaster features the same El Primero 3610 movement with automatic column-wheel chronograph functionality. The complete calendar and moonphase indications both lend the dial a swath of functionality and add aesthetic flavor. Also carried over from previous models is the 60-hour power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance, placing the Chronomaster solidly in the dress-to-sport watch camp.  A new colorway and case material for an iconic and consistently popular line of watches is always exciting, and Zenith has delivered with this new (and familiar) Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar reference. Whether or not rose ...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif After teasing May 1, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif

After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Apr 15, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph Brown Enamel

One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...

Hands-on - The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial Monochrome
Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold Apr 14, 2025

Hands-on - The Exotic New Rolex GMT-Master II Everose Gold with a Tiger Iron Dial

Traditionally, Rolex sports (a.k.a. professional) watches are very often paired with black dials. As for the GMT-Master II, of all references available in the collection – and there are quite a lot of them, in all possible materials except platinum – only the white gold editions have had the privilege of colours: Pepsi with a […]

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Apr 6, 2025

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

Omega’s latest is an unusual combination of a 600 m-rated dive watch with a Cottier-style world time. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer shares the oversized ceramic case of the Planet Ocean Deep Black, but is the first model in the collection to incorporate a world time complication. Initial thoughts While the Worldtimer makes a bold statement, a US$14,800 price tag and substantial case dimensions may limit its appeal – particularly for those with average-sized wrists. Still, it offers a somewhat paradoxical and oddly specific combination of features, so someone seeking a world time watch ready for saturation diving, there are few other options. Of the two available colourways, I would choose the low-key grey edition for its greater versatility compared to the turquoise version. Worldtimer Offered with either turquoise or grey accents, the new Planet Ocean is housed in a black ceramic case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness. Signature Seamaster case elements, including twisted lyre lugs, a helium escape valve, and “Broad Arrow” hands, complete the design. The standout feature the world time complication with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. At the centre is a titanium disc displaying a view of the Earth from the North Pole, with continents and colours rendered with varnish and laser engraving. A 24-hour ring in transparent hesalite is shaded in black and white to denote night and day. The chapter ring for the hours is embellished with a honey...

Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic Fratello
Chanel Launches Apr 5, 2025

Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic

If your favorite cologne is Bleu de Chanel, look no further. Chanel dresses the J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic this year to celebrate the watch’s birthday. With 2025 marking a quarter century since the first J12 in black ceramic (and 22 years since the first white ceramic version), it’s time for a new color. […] Visit Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic to read the full article.

Introducing - New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Piaget’s Apr 4, 2025

Introducing - New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch

Piaget’s swank 15102 reference, better known as the Black Tie watch, captured the zeitgeist of the early 1970s with its oversized 45mm cushion-shaped gold case, dramatic sweeping gadroons and sleek black dial. Reputedly American Pop artist Andy Warhol’s favourite model, Piaget was given the green light last year to rename its cult watch the Andy […]

Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models Fratello
Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak Apr 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models

Audemars Piguet is famous for using ceramics in its Royal Oak line. Some of the many highlights include the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Double Balance Wheel Openworked models. When it comes to specific colors, the first two that come to mind are the black and electric-blue shades that most of you will know. […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner It features Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual

Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...

The 2025 Rolex GMT-Master II Models - The White Gold Sprite Cerachrom And Everose Tiger Iron Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II Models – Mar 31, 2025

The 2025 Rolex GMT-Master II Models - The White Gold Sprite Cerachrom And Everose Tiger Iron

It’s finally officially here! The new Rolex GMT-Master II “Sprite” model is in white gold with a ceramic dial, and the new rose gold version has a tiger iron dial. In the past few years, Rolex spoiled us with new GMT-Master II editions, like the new all-steel version with black and gray bezel (“Bruce Wayne”), […] Visit The 2025 Rolex GMT-Master II Models – The White Gold Sprite Cerachrom And Everose Tiger Iron to read the full article.

Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced Fratello
Mar 27, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced

If there is any Gallet watch that almost certainly sells for more than $10,000, it’s an early version of the Flying Officer with a black dial. Although it is a very expensive watch, proper research and documentation are limited. The details raise multiple questions. Let’s start with the basics. The Flying Officer, the most important […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced to read the full article.

New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Deployant
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Mar 26, 2025

New: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer brings a fresh dimension to the Planet Ocean series, combining the robustness of a professional dive watch with the practicality of a worldtimer complication. Featuring a striking black ceramic case and a visually detailed dial that includes a laser-ablated Earth map, it caters to travelers and adventurers alike. The new additions come in two colors.

Luminous Pixels and Retro Design on Mido’s Commander 1959 SJX Watches
Longines amongst others Mar 13, 2025

Luminous Pixels and Retro Design on Mido’s Commander 1959

Originally a low-key, perhaps even boring, vintage remake, the Commander 1959 Pixel Dial livens things up with a vibrant array of blue, purple, and pink squares printed on the black dial. The new Mido departs from our usual focus on higher-end mechanical watchmaking, but at a little over US$700, it combines affordability, good-enough quality, and fun. The blue and pink squares are actually Super-LumiNova on matte black, creating a striking illuminated pixel dial in the dark. The dial is housed in the classic Commander 1959 case characterised by a “Milanese” mesh bracelet, flat bezel, and domed acrylic crystal, which evokes an unmistakable mid-century aesthetic that contrasts with the funky pixel dial. Initial thoughts Several of Mido’s recent releases, including the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, combine inject vibrant colours and details into vintage-inspired designs. The new Commander 1959 continues this with its unmistakably 1950s-style case paired with a modern dial. Despite the dial’s array of colours, legibility is excellent thanks to the wide hands and markers. The Pixel Dial is a simple iteration of the original, and consequently remains affordable at US$740. Like many other watches in the same price range made by Mido’s parent Swatch Group (which also owns Tissot and Longines amongst others), the Commander 1959 is equipped with the Powermatic 80, a no-frills, economical movement that nonetheless provides an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Pattern...

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory Worn & Wound
Mar 10, 2025

What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory

I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927.  After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...

Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC Worn & Wound
Sinn 613 St Mar 4, 2025

Introducing the New Sinn 613 St and 613 St UTC

The new year has already seen a slate of new Sinn timepieces with fresh color schemes, designs, and materials. But the German brand hasn’t forgotten the importance of the watch as a tool, either, and the new 613 St and 613 St UTC are prime examples of Sinn’s dedication to functionality in tandem with form.  With a crisp matte black dial and white chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, the 613 St embodies Sinn’s most recognizable principles of legible design. Day and date windows sit at the 3 position, with Sinn’s Ar-Dehumidifying Technology logo at 4, indicating that the 613 St comes with the proprietary anti-fogging technology. A second subdial-black with light gray borders and numerals-occupies the 9 o’clock position, giving the 613 St both 60-minute and “running seconds” stopwatch functions.  The 613 St UTC variant adds another layer of complication, with a second time zone featuring light gray 24-hour markers around the inside of the dial. Here, a UTC text detail also replaces the day window and the 60-second subdial is infringed upon, but all else remains the same between the two siblings design-wise. Indices and the hour, minute, and second hands on both models are luminescent, as is the key mark on the minute-ratcheting captive diver’s bezel. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal sits atop the dial. Both 613 St variants are protected by the same bead-blasted stainless steel case, measuring 41mm in diameter. A screw-down crown and caseback seal in th...

REVIEW: The New Seiko 5 Sports Kentaro Yoshida Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Sports Kentaro Yoshida Feb 28, 2025

REVIEW: The New Seiko 5 Sports Kentaro Yoshida Limited Edition

I go hands-on with the new Seiko x Kentaro Yoshida 5 Sports Limited Edition to see how its bold, monochromatic design comes to life. From intricate cloud motifs to playful skeletal artwork, this timepiece brings a unique blend of street art and watchmaking to the wrist! What We Love This black model appeals to those who love “blacked out” timepieces In sunlight, the artistic work of Kentaro Yoshida really comes to life on this timepiece Day-Date window is colour-matched to the dial, allowing the artwork to be the central highlight What We Don’t In low-light conditions, the black dial and its artwork blend in too much All black dials can also make the watch lose some of its functionality The case back tint could have been a little lighter to give more transparency for movement without losing Kentaro Yoshida’s logo. Overall Score: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Late last month, Seiko unveiled its latest 5 Sports collection, one created in conjunction with the famed street artist Kentaro Yoshida. Watch Advice had the chance to attend the unveiling of this latest collection, where Yoshida himself was present to introduce not only the different timepieces but also the artworks behind each watch. Related Reading: A Wonderful Night Celebrating Seiko Watches and Kentaro Yoshida Seiko has been doing exceptionally well with some of its latest releases. I know I keep raving about it, but their Alpinist Australasian ...