Hodinkee
Just Because: Three Grand Seiko Boutique Pieces You Probably Haven't Seen
These cool special editions dropped under the radar, but you should know about them.
Results for Christiaan van der Klaauw
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste
Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...
Revolution
Ferrari Watches: The Modern Era
From Panerai to Hublot, our Editor at Large completes his tour through some greatest hits from a watch world that loves a bit of Ferrari.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex Black Series Diver Limited Editions
Having launched a well received trio of Black Series dive watches in 2017, Seiko has done it again, but this time applying the black livery to more upscale models, including the Prospex Marinemaster and Prospex “Sumo”. The flagship model of the new collection, the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Black Series (ref. SLA035J1 or SBDX033) is all black with red accents on the dial, historically a common colour combination for dive watches. According to Seiko, the choice of red was intentional, as it is the first colour to disappear underwater, starting from a depth of about 5 m or 15 ft. As a result, the seconds hand and depth rating disappear underwater, thus “[eliminating] unnecessary information allowing for instantaneous readability.” Limited to just 600 pieces, the Marinemaster Black Series has a steel case with a black hard coating, and the bezel insert is scratch-resistant black ceramic. It’s powered by the 8L35, an automatic movement derived from the 9S55 used in Grand Seiko models, which means it has the same architecture but without the decorative finishing found on the Grand Seiko movement. The other two Black Series models feature a black-and-orange colour scheme, and are more affordable. The first is the Seiko Prospex Black Series “Sumo” (ref. SPB125J1 or SBDC095), which is a rather large limited edition of 7,000 watches, no doubt because the Prospex Black Series “Turtle” of 2017 sold out swiftly. The “Sumo” (left) and solar chronograph The new ...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing
The topic of watch water resistance is a tried and true watch forum favourite, showing just how motivated watch enthusiasts are to keep their wristwatches running underwater. If it’s expressed in bar, metres or feet, anyone who has spent a few months salary on a new watch is understandably interested in keeping their watch away … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: DIY watch waterproofing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light | OMEGA
SJX Watches
Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph
Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...
Quill & Pad
How It’s Made: Inside The Breguet Castle Of Complications – Reprise
Few get to check out Breguet’s factory from the inside, and those who do generally don’t get to take photographs of what they see. This modernized factory in the heart of the remote Vallée de Joux with its many annexed hallways, secretive doors, and interesting manufacturing capabilities has long been a jealously guarded secret. Elizabeth Doerr reveals what's behind the doors at Breguet.
Deployant
Happy New Year!
As we cross the threshold of 2020, may we wish all our dear readers a Very Happy New Year. May you be blessed with greater prosperity, be in better health, and more happiness this year. We will take the customary day off today, and will return tomorrow to enjoy the holiday. And many greetings fromRead More
SJX Watches
Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly
One of the iconic Swatch watches from its 1980s heyday was the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010), which was unveiled in 1983, the same year Swatch itself was launched. A quartz movement entirely exposed in a clear plastic case – accented with brightly coloured hands – the Jelly Fish was a bestseller that encapsulated what Swatch was all about: no-frills but fun watchmaking. The Jelly Fish remained in production, in one form or another – there was even a COSC-certified chronometer limited edition (GK124) in 1990 – for over two decades. Now the spirit of the Jelly Fish returns as the Big Bold Jelly, essentially the same idea but in a larger watch case. The Big Bold Jelly features a quartz movement inside a Big Bold case, just like the recent limited editions created in collaboration with fashion label A Bathing Ape (BAPE). The case is a large 47mm in diameter, with the crown unusually positioned at two o’clock. But just as with the original Jelly Fish, the case is clear plastic, while the band is translucent silicone. And the hands are rendered in bright colours – red, yellow and blue – with a bit more colour provided by the gilded wheels within the movement. Key facts and price Big Bold Jelly Ref. SO27E100 Diameter: 47mm Height: 11.75mm Material: Clear plastic Water resistance: 30m Movement: Quartz Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Strap: Silicone with aluminium pin buckle Availability: At Swatch stores Price: US$110 For more information, visit Swatch.co...
Deployant
Blessed Christmas
Dear Readers, we wish you a Very Blessed and Merry Christmas! From all of us at Deployant. We are taking the day off today, and will be back tomorrow. May the joy of the Christ Child be in your heart this Christmas and always, and bring you good cheer and great health.
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Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer | OMEGA
Quill & Pad
Naughty Or Nice? A Down-To-Earth (Under $5,000) Wish List Including Breitling, Baume & Mercier, Tutima, Nomos Glashütte, and Seiko Presage – Reprise
In case you need a reason for watch shopping – a watch certainly would help navigate through stores to find everything on time. Here are five wallet-friendly suggestions that might just be the ultimate “tra la la la.”
Quill & Pad
Gifting A Watch Book This Holiday Season? Here’s A Selection Of Horological Tomes To Consider
Any time is an appropriate time to gift a watch lover with a book containing well-written words and beautiful photos of watches. At Quill & Pad we love reading books as much as we love writing them (on occasion). Here is a selection of books we have reviewed and written, suitable for gifting or reading at any time of year.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Phase One XF IQ4 150 with lenses
We try out the world's most expensive camera system for a week - the Phase One XF IQ4 150 with Schneider Kreuznach Bue Ring lenses, and give our user views.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT: The World On Your Wrist – Reprise
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT is a watch designed to fill a need, specifically a need to have a Polaris model that focuses on travel as the main function. The home time dial allows for a true visual understanding of times in multiple places around the world. Joshua Munchow fills us in!
Quill & Pad
Element Of Surprise: Omega Constellation And Seamaster Were Designed By René Bannwart, Founder Of Corum – Reprise
When writing 'Bridging Art and Mechanics: The Unabridged Story of the Corum Golden Bridge,' Elizabeth Doerr discovered much more about Corum’s artistic co-founder, René Bannwart, including the fact that he was the creator of Omega’s flagship Constellation and Seamaster lines.
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Is Panerai a True Watchmaker? | Watchfinder & Co.
Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic: Timing Is Getting Pretty Thin
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is the recent winner of the Chronograph category at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and current world record holder for the thinnest mechanical chronograph. Joshua Munchow thinks that as such the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT deserves closer inspection to discover just how it achieved this feat while looking cool in the process.
Deployant
The Insider View: Industry status and major trends: Oct 2019
The second installment of our monthly series: Luxury Industry Performance Index by Dr. Frank Muller, CEO of TBTL, and special correspondent to Deployant.
Quill & Pad
Sotheby’s Masterworks Of Time Part Two Is Dedicated To Treasures Of A. Lange & Söhne’s Illustrious Past Among Other Historical Delicacies (Updated With Results)
Part two of Sotheby's Masterworks of Time offers more than 30 impressive masterpieces from A. Lange & Söhne’s illustrious history as well as rare pocket watches by Adolf Schneider, who worked alongside Ferdinand Adolph Lange in Glashütte, their master Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes, and many other historical delicacies sure to have your heart beating faster!
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Three Watches That Dazzle From Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X
A trio of pieces that caught my eye in advance of tomorrow's sale.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”
At Only Watch 2017, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black ceramic – but with a one-off blue dial – sold for a whopping 800,000 Swiss francs, with two phone bidders driving it to nearly seven times the high estimate. It was the third most expensive watch in the sale. This year’s contribution is no Royal Oak – far from it – but it’s surprisingly worthy of a second look. In fact, it’s probably the best-looking watch to emerge from the brand’s often criticised Code 11.59 line. Amidst the flak heaped upon it, the Code 11.59 range had a couple of standouts, including the Tourbillon Openworked. And that’s where AP started for Only Watch 2019. The Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch retains the slim, beautifully finished skeleton movement, eschewing the contentious Code 11.59 dial altogether. And the movement has a two-tone finish that smartly highlights the most important mechanical components. To match the movement, the Only Watch edition features a two-tone case that does justice to the Code 11.59 construction in a way the uniform colour of the standard models simply couldn’t. Superbly constructed In terms of size, the case is identical to the standard model – 41mm by 10.7mm. Beyond immediate impressions, the case is wonderfully constructed with a subtle and intriguing mix of shapes and finishing made obvious by the two-tone materials. The octagonal case middle is pink gold, while the rest of the case, including the lugs, are white gold,...
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H.M. Kala Pocket Sundial - the weirdest time telling device in my collection
Quill & Pad
Will These Unique Timepieces Be Only Watch 2019’s Top Performers?
Going on the results of the past auctions, Elizabeth Doerr picks a few clear top contenders for the 2019 Only Watch auction, starting with that unique-piece Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in stainless steel.
SJX Watches
Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva
Now the non-executive chairman of the watch division at LVMH, Jean-Claude Biver has enjoyed a remarkable career in the watch industry that has spanned some 45 years. That success has enabled him to build a timepiece collection that is both magnificent and diverse, ranging from vintage Patek Philippe to modern independent watchmaking. Now the entire collection will be on display for the first time at Phillips in Geneva, after which it will embark on a world tour. Bookends of Mr Biver’s career so far: a Royal Oak ref. 5402 ST by Audemars Piguet, where he started his career And a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Titled Jean-Claude Biver: A Retrospective. Share, Respect, Forgive, the exhibition includes two dozen watches – including some lovely Patek Philippe pocket watches – that are amongst the best examples of 20th century watchmaking. Notably, the collection also includes several watches by prominent independent watchmakers, many of which were relatively recent purchases. They include a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in rose gold – the exact watch we featured several weeks ago in fact – and a fresh-off-the-press Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain in platinum. According to an inside source, Mr Biver’s late-in-life interest in independent watchmaking, and also the Rolex Daytona “Zenith”, is the result of counsel from his son, Pierre, who is a specialist at Phillips’ London office, showing that the love of watches can be hereditary. A Patek Philippe Ref. 15...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Joker Selfie for Only Watch 2019
Though the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Selfie was already explained in great detail by Bjorn Meijer a couple of weeks ago, it’s compelling enough for a second, quick look, since I just received a new set of photos. Konstantin’s standard Joker (or Clown) wristwatch is well known, while also being fairly straight forward mechanically. The one-off Joker Selfie he created for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction is fundamentally and dramatically different, although the shares the familiar funny face. To start with the case is made of bulat, a high carbon steel alloy better known as Wootz steel. Sometimes incorrectly known as Damascus steel, bulat is an alloy with a patterned surface that’s a result of the metals mixed within. The irregular structure of the alloy, combined with its hardness, means it was a challenge to make the Joker Selfie case. Konstantin only completed the case after two discarded cases due to structural problems that emerged after machining. The Joker Selfie tells the time like the standard Joker, with the pupils in each eye pointing to the time, with a moon phase display incorporated into the mouth of the clown. And it has the day of the week, indicated with emoticons, much like Alain Silberstein’s trademark “smileday”, at 12 o’clock. But it also has an additional “secret” display, with a swivelling lever under the dial that covers either the hours or the day of the week display. It’s a gravity-activated mechanism that shows the hours ...
SJX Watches
The Rise and Fall of Asprey of London (and a Personalised F.P. Journe Wristwatch)
An F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier caught my eye at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction, not because of the watch itself, but because of the name engraved on the movement: “John R. Asprey”. Now 82, John Rolls Asprey ran his family’s luxury emporium in its heyday, when it was a purveyor of watches, jewels, silverware, fine bookbinding and hunting accessories, with the Sultans of Brunei and Oman as its top clients. Unusually, Asprey was a prominent name in two diverse segments of watchmaking – what are now valuable vintage watches, think “Khanjar” Rolex watches, as well as modern-day independent watchmaking. How it came to be is the remarkable story of the rise and decline of a grand name in British luxury retail. A wondrous emporium Long before luxury brand names had coalesced into conglomerates like LVMH and Richemont, they were independent, family-owned enterprises that were small but globally known – at least by the right clientele. Amongst them were names that are still famous today, including Cartier, Louis Vuitton, and Tiffany & Co., but also one that is less well known now, Asprey of London. Founded in 1781 and having opened in 1847 at 167 New Bond Street – still its premises today, albeit leased – Asprey was once London’s leading luxury merchant. In some ways, it was the ultimate gift shop, where one could buy all manner of exotic and exquisite goods from all over the world, from books to watches to sceptres to crystal. Many of the elaborate objects ...
Quill & Pad
The Wonderful Watch Winners At CH24.PL’s Watch Of The Year (WOTY) 2019
The tenth edition of Poland’s Watch of the Year by CH24.PL included all timepieces introduced in 2019 competing across six categories. All of these watches were nominated by an international jury comprising journalists from six countries (including Elizabeth Doerr). Brands did not have to enter their watches; the shortlists were made by the jury. So who took home the big prizes?
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