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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G May 8, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...

Obituary: René Beyer, Owner of the World’s Oldest Watch Store SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 16, 2025

Obituary: René Beyer, Owner of the World’s Oldest Watch Store

René Beyer, the eighth-generation owner of Beyer Chronometrie in Zurich, died suddenly on April 13, 2025, at the age of 61​. Beyer was a towering figure in Swiss watchmaking circles, known not only for helming his family’s 260-year-old business, but also for his passionate stewardship of its famed clock and watch museum, his warm ties with independent watchmakers, and his family’s close relationship with Patek Philippe. He is survived by his wife. Beyer’s passing was first reported by Zurich newspaper Inside Paradeplatz. Born in 1963 into the Beyer dynasty that began in Germany in 1760, Beyer grew up surrounded by clocks and watches. Like his father, Theodor “Teddy” René Beyer, he qualified as a watchmaker himself​, learning the business from the ground up. Beyer’s role in the family business started in 1986 when his father suffered a heart attack and was forced to step back. A decade later, Beyer had formally taken over as managing director and proprietor of Beyer Chronometrie, becoming the eighth generation to run the venerable retailer​, which first opened in Zurich in 1822. Unlike many of its peers that expanded nationally and internationally, the business remained a local operation in Zurich. Like many watch retailers of the old-school, Beyer was synonymous with his store. The store on Bahnhofstrasse, the main shopping street of Zurich A retailer and curator During his nearly three decades at the helm, Beyer carried on his father’s legacy and bol...

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G Making Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G

Making an early yet impressive start to the much-awaited deluge of Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Patek Philippe has just introduced 15 new models to its catalog. Among them is the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001. This watch also marks the debut of a new movement, the in-house 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J. Patek Philippe […] Visit Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G to read the full article.

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand Fratello
Doxa Sub 250T GMT - Mar 26, 2025

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand

If you consider yourself a passionate diver, chances are that you strive to dive in different underwater habitats. After all, variety is the spice of life, isn’t it? So you may find yourself traveling all over the globe, looking for diving hotspots. Unfortunately, the Doxa on your wrist does not aid in keeping track of […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand to read the full article.

Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch Fratello
Krayon Mar 17, 2025

Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch

In 2018, Krayon, the brand founded by independent watchmaker Rémi Maillat, won the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) with its Everywhere watch. Four years later, Krayon bagged another GPHG award. That time, the complicated Anywhere won first prize in the Calendar and Astronomy category. With the new Krayon Anyday, a […] Visit Introducing A New Way Of Looking At The Date: The Krayon Anyday Is The World’s First Mechanical Agenda Watch to read the full article.

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading Fratello
Feb 4, 2025

The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading

In the watch industry, people often toss around the term “gray market,” but they don’t always fully understand it. The gray market for watches refers to a network of unofficial sales channels through which sellers trade watches outside of the authorized distribution system. While this market is legal, it operates without the endorsement of the […] Visit The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading to read the full article.

Why the Seiko Astron Might be the Most Important Watch of the 20th Cen Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Astron Might be Jan 28, 2025

Why the Seiko Astron Might be the Most Important Watch of the 20th Cen

Among today’s Seiko watch models and collections, it’s fair to say that the Seiko Astron does not receive nearly the amount of love from enthusiasts and collectors as do its contemporaries, like the Prospex and Presage models and even the budget-friendly 5 Sport series. And yet I believe a substantial case can be made that the Astron — at least, the first watch to bear that name, way back at the collection’s inception in 1969 — is the most important watch of the 20th Century. The first watch to the market with a quartz movement, the Seiko Astron was a game-changer for the entire watch industry, with an impact that is still being felt today. When Seiko revived the Astron in 2012 after a long hiatus, it was with the recognition that the model represented a quantum leap in watchmaking technology and the determination to take it to the next level. Seiko has fulfilled that promise with subsequent editions of the modern Astron, which brought GPS technology into watchmaking much as the original brought quartz. Here is the story of the Seiko Astron and its 50-plus-year journey to the cutting edge of technology. The Road to Quartz: 1952 - 1968 The quartz watch movement, as with many other groundbreaking inventions, did not emerge from a single burst of creative vision, but ultimately proved to be the most workable version of many such mechanisms, all aimed toward addressing the same industry-wide challenge. As I explore in greater depth in my article on the History of Tim...

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365, now with a Grey Dial Monochrome
Meistersinger Pangaea Day Date 365 Jan 28, 2025

Introducing - The MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365, now with a Grey Dial

While primarily known for its minimalistic watch displaying the time thanks to a single hand (which is used to display the hours mainly, and a deliberately vague indication of the minutes), MeisterSinger is no stranger to additional complications, in particular astronomical and calendar features – admitidely, a great match with slightly old-school and poetical single-hand […]

Hands-On With The Surprising Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II Dive Watch Fratello
Jan 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Surprising Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II Dive Watch

The new Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II looks like a million bucks. Not literally, of course, but it does look way higher-end than the price tag would suggest. US$449 buys you a watch that punches well above its weight. This intro might read like a conclusion, but there is more to say about this […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II Dive Watch to read the full article.

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session Fratello
Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Dec 23, 2024

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session

Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.

My Year in Watches: Defining “Affordable Watch Collector” Worn & Wound
Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue I couldn’t Dec 20, 2024

My Year in Watches: Defining “Affordable Watch Collector”

My original idea when I was asked to contribute to this series was to focus on my favorite watch acquisitions of the year, explain why they’re noteworthy, and describe my thought process behind purchasing or trading for each. While I was writing about my Universal Geneve Ref. 842116 Tank and Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue, I couldn’t help but notice how far my collection has come over the last year or so. Since the purchase of my first wristwatch in 2012, it’s always been my goal to cultivate watch boxes filled with both timeless classics and rare oddities. Looking at my collection as this year concludes, I’m proud to say I’ve never changed this philosophy. It was with this realization that my plans for this article began to transform into a conversation about watch collecting identity. While 2024 has been quite the successful year for my collection and I, it’s also the year that I went from being an affordable watch collector to being …an affordable watch collector.  You see, the watch collecting hobby is filled with subjective terminology. Words and phrases like “rare,” “new old stock,” “like-new old stock,” “budget-friendly,” and of course “affordable” frequently see usage on online auction platforms, social media, forums, and advertisements. While these are often used as buzzwords for sellers wanting their post to be boosted in search algorithms or by collectors wanting to flaunt their new purchase, I’ve always been fascinated by how pliable...

The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex Fratello
Cartier Vacheron Nov 18, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex

Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex to read the full article.

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2024

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL

Arizona’s SēL Instruments have been making, literally, bomb proof watches since 2017. The term overengineered is often thrown around in watchmaking, but no other brand quite embodies this term the way SēL Instruments does. Not only do they engineer their watches from scratch, but they also engineer the equipment to make them, as well as the tools to test them. They even reinvented the watch bracelet with an ingenious clasp system called the Wavlock. According to the brand, their watches appeal to many in the armed forces, police, EMTs, or anyone that lives and works in the harshest environments on earth. You can tell these watches were made by someone that never skips leg days, though just like Adrew McLean’s oversize quads, these watches have always been quite large. That is, until now. Introducing the new OmniDiver Xos 42, a smaller, much more wearable version of their signature OmniDiver. That said, they did not just shrink it. Their focus is on a trifecta feature set for extreme environmental protection in a smaller 42mm case: impact resistance, water resistance, and magnetic resistance.  The original OmniDiver has a water-resistance rating of 6,100 meters, but the new Xos 42 is still no slouch at 2,000 meters. What is even more impressive is that the new one is only 13.7mm thick. To make that happen, they needed to add new Teflon bearings to their already incredibly good ball-bearing bezel bezel assembly. They needed to strengthen their screw-down crown and inv...

Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch Fratello
Oct 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch

Until recently, I had heard of Beaufort but had never gotten the chance to check out the brand’s watches. Well, that changed with the introduction of the brand’s newest creation, the Fiordland GMT. This watch offers a good dose of vintage flair and combines it with a modern flyer-style GMT movement. Beaufort sent us two […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Fiordland GMT - An Affordable ’50s-Inspired Travel Watch to read the full article.

First Look - The New Bulgari Octo Roma Striking 8 Days Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Roma Striking 8 Sep 25, 2024

First Look - The New Bulgari Octo Roma Striking 8 Days

Bulgari’s personality is intrinsically shaped by Rome, incorporating elements of the city’s magnificent imperial architecture into its fabulous jewellery and watches. The iconic Octo family, which includes the invincible legion of ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo models, welcomes the new Octo Roma Striking 8 Days. If the watch looks familiar, it’s because the movement powering this […]

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024 SJX Watches
Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph We Sep 8, 2024

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Online Auction Fall 2024

The fall auction season kicks off with online auctions, before the primary live sales that take place in November. Phillips in Geneva just opened its online auction with a 70-lot offering of the familiar and mainstream (think Aquanaut, Royal Oak, and Nautilus), but also the esoteric and independent, ranging from an Alain Silberstein perpetual calendar made by Svend Andersen to a Seiko Izul “bullhead” chronograph. We round up a few highlights from the sale, which runs from September 5-12, 2024, with the catalogue and bidding available online. Lot 9 –  Alain Silberstein Marine Perpetual Calendar by Svend Andersen Part of Alain Silberstein’s Marine series of dive watches, the Marine Perpetual is a COSC-certified perpetual calendar in a case rated to 200 m. It’s equipped with a clever, double-sided perpetual calendar movement developed by Svend Andersen. Built on an ETA 2892, the perpetual calendar has a minimalist display with only the date on the dial that’s decorated in Silberstein’s trademark style with geometric shapes, primary colours, along with a starfish, crescent, and sun. On the reverse is the months and leap year in a single register that is mounted on the periphery of the movement, allowing the rotor to travel below the indicator. The Marine Perpetual was a limited edition of 100 watches, though it is likely fewer were made, since they are rarely encountered. It was one of several collaborations that Alain Silberstein in the 1990s with prominent in...

How To Travel With Your Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2024

How To Travel With Your Watch

We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? The post How To Travel With Your Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion Quill & Pad
Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me Aug 5, 2024

3 Reasons The Rolex Day-Date 40 Convinced Me: A Very Rolexy Rolex Discussion

Rolex had never called out to Joshua Munchow as a watch that he must have or that would be the pinnacle of his collection. He thinks that this is because of the downsides to it being the most widely known watch brand in the world: forgeries and overexposure abound. So what is it about 2015's Rolex Day-Date 40 that turned him into a convert? Read on to find out.