Deployant
Countdown to the best posts of 2023 Part 1
Counting down to the end of 2023, and before welcoming 2024, here are the best posts on Deployant for 2023. Part 1 lists the no6 to 10 spots.
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Deployant
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Parmigiani Fleurier L’armoriale Pocket Watch Sometimes we get word of a watch that is just too beautiful and special not to feature. It’s become a tradition for Parmigiani Fleurier to create a special, completely unique pocket watch every year to celebrate founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, and this year they’ve really outdone themselves with a watch they’re calling L’armoriale. The heart of the timepiece is a mechanical caliber dating to 1890 that was restored by Parmigiani in 1985. Originally a chronograph minute repeater, the movement now features both of those complications as well as a perpetual calendar with a moonphase, a pretty incredible demonstration of Parmigiani’s skill as a watchmaker as well as his devotion to restoration and preserving and sometimes even enhancing horological history. The white gold case features a beautiful enameled caseback, and of course virtually everything here is completely handmade and hand finished, down to the intricate chiseled adornments that run across the case band. It’s a real work of art, worth spending some time gawk...
Monochrome
News - The Shortlist of Candidates and Jury for the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
About a year ago, Louis Vuitton, through its manufacture of watches La Fabrique du Temps, announced the establishment of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, a biennial prize that celebrates the creative talent, savoir-faire and audacity of the independent watchmaking industry, to support and encourage artisans and entrepreneurs and accompany future generations. Since […]
Quill & Pad
Watch Market Predictions 2024: Is the Tide Turning?
Many of the trends that we have experienced happening slowly over the last few years have continued. These include more dial colors, case materials, and a shift to smaller case sizes. However, it feels we have also hit a turning point where some changes are coming about.
Time+Tide
How does a watch dial turn tropical?
Throughout history, it’s generally been assumed that something is worth more when it’s in better condition. But just as pre-ripped jeans found their popularity in the 1970s, it’s becoming more and more common to prefer things aged. Well-weathered objects tell a story, and whether or not you think it’s cheating to replicate that look artificially, … ContinuedThe post How does a watch dial turn tropical? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Roland Iten R8 MKII Sport Mechanical Belt Buckle in Steel and Titanium (Plus Video): For the Man Who Hasn’t Quite Got Everything Yet, This Should Do It!
Ian Skellern, speaking from many years of experience, says that the R8 MKII Sport belt buckle isn’t a show pony, it has much more functionality than simply stylishly holding up your trousers. But above all, it is a pure indulgence.
Monochrome
Book Review - The Polerouter Book, Celebrating the History, Design and Diversity of the Iconic Universal Genève Watch
While the Polerouter by Universal Genève has long been a favourite watch among collectors, its extensive production in various executions has made it accessible for enthusiasts to discover rare or low-production models. However, with the rising popularity of the watch among new collectors, the landscape is evolving, and the thirst for information is growing. To […]
Time+Tide
New releases from Vacheron Constantin, Fears, Audemars Piguet and more
Wow… Nobody expected much in terms of watch releases this week, but some of the biggest brands in the industry unexpectedly decided to present very special pieces. In particular, Vacheron Constantin, for the first time ever, allowed the media direct access to the releases of Les Cabinotiers, the brand’s crème de la crème, usually only … ContinuedThe post New releases from Vacheron Constantin, Fears, Audemars Piguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Holiday Gift Guide to Finding Something for Everyone with Fossil
With the Holidays coming up quickly, at times it can be extremely difficult to find that ideal special something for everyone in your life. Our friends at Fossil have worked to make it a bit easier to find a gift for anyone and everyone-from an absolute icon, like the Disney x Fossil Special Edition Classic Mickey Mouse Watch to a goes-with-anything daily carry solution like the Lennox Messenger. With this list, you’re sure to discover the perfect present for just about anybody. Released the same year as The Walt Disney Company’s 100 Year Anniversary, this special-edition Classic Disney Mickey Mouse Watch is the crown jewel in the new Disney Fossil Collection. It’s the modern take on one of the most iconic products in horology. It’s the gift that every Disney or watch enthusiast will love as it simply oozes the concept simply know as… collectibility. It boasts a Japanese automatic movement, which can be spot through both its display caseback, as well as a small aperture on the dial at the 8 o’clock position. It also comes complete with a 40mm stainless steel case, a black Italian leather strap, a white glossy dial, and Disney’s Mickey Mouse print with those instantly recognizable, white-gloved hour and minute hands. It’s guaranteed to bring a smile to anyone’s face. The Lennox Messenger in Medium Brown is a slick, modern take on a timeless carry solution. It’s perfect for anyone with an on-the-go soul who needs that professional vibe, but wants someth...
Revolution
‘Passion For Time’ Auction, Wei Koh’s Perspective | In Conversation with Remi Guillemin
Join Wei and Remi Guillemin, Head of Watches for Christie’s Europe, with a follow-up to explore more rare and exclusive pieces from the upcoming ‘Passion For Time’ auction, with over 110 lots hailing from the private collection of Mr Mohammed Zaman from Oman. With the amazing diversity of the auction, Wei picks some of his […]
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Meg Tocci
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Meg Tocci (@minutemeg on Instagram) brings us a well balanced collection hitting on a variety of enthusiast favorites – and all with blue dials, a constraint Meg chose to challenge herself to stick to with these picks. This collection has bronze, an integrated bracelet sports watch, and a bezel that will help you leave an appropriate tip. Between these three watches, you’ve got virtually any situation covered, even if you can’t use a slide-rule. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If your watchbox is getting a little unwieldy and you’d like to pare down, the three watch collection seems to offer a solution. It frees you from the burden of becoming a One Watch Person (who needs that pressure?) while providing reasonable constraints to shield you from the black hole of price drop alerts and the illusory refrain of “just one more.” It leaves the collector with enough space to make choices without feeling restricted by them. With countless combinations, I knew this project required a strategy. While I considered dropping significant dough on one heavy-hitter and two inexpensive options, I wanted to challenge myself to stretch those dollars as far as I could, with all three choices weighing in above the $1,000 price point. I knew I wanted to prioritize real-life applicability by picking options for both work and leisure. Whee...
Worn & Wound
Speake Marin’s New Openworked Sandblasted Ti is a Sign that the Early 2000s Indie Favorite is in the Midst of a Comeback
Don’t look now, but it appears that one of the great names of early 2000s independent watchmaking is back with their feet under them, fully invested in making interesting and beautiful watches. Speake Marin, founded by Peter Speake-Marin in 2002, was one of those gateway brands for many collectors coming of age at around the time the brand got its start, thanks in no small part to the founder being one of the most well liked and enthusiastic spokespeople not only for their own brand, but for indie watchmaking in general, of that era. Speake Marin (the brand) has had some ups and downs since the departure of its founder in 2017, but recent efforts like the Dual Time (in a host of festive colors) and the Ripples (their oddly named but quite striking entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch genre) have garnered more attention than the brand has seen in quite some time. Their most recent release, the Openworked Sandblasted Ti. The One & Two Openworked line has become a signature in the larger Speake Marin catalog, consisting of, well, evocatively openworked dials that show off some seriously high level manufacturing. They also do a great job of calling attention to the intricately finished movements and the unusual geometry and layout of Speake Marin watches, which is the underlying factor in what makes this watch so striking. The running seconds between 1:00 and 2:00 is, of course, deeply unusual, as is the visible barrel from the dial side with an engraving of the bra...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Andre Iguodala
This is the summer of Andre Iguodala. The Golden State Warriors small forward is fresh off winning the NBA finals MVP. He's flying all over the world talking to artists and designers, presenting at the ESPY Awards, and becoming the king of New York Men's Fashion Week. And Talking Watches, of course.
Time+Tide
Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast
This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New releases from Breguet, Ba111oD, Atelier Wen and more
An incredible feat of collaborative horology from Akrivia and Louis Vuitton stole the show this week, as did new models from the likes of Ming and Bōken.The post New releases from Breguet, Ba111oD, Atelier Wen and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection
Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...
SJX Watches
Equine Artisanal Craft with the Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch
Hermès’ pocket watches consistently demonstrate the brand’s limitless creativity across a spectrum of artisanal crafts. Bringing forth a delightful blend of surprise and anticipation, the Slim d’Hermès Masan Masan Pocket Watch is decorated with horsehair marquetry, a weave technique that forms a finely textured motif. The one-off creation stands as a remarkable achievement, underscoring Hermès’ exceptional talent transforming the distinctive designs drawn from its scarves into works of art for the wrist or pocket. Initial thoughts Hermès’ creativity appears boundless, characterised by an impeccable sense of understated aesthetics that sets it apart from the more extravagant approaches taken by many other manufacturers. Even when Hermès endeavours to go over the top, the outcome remains remarkably restrained, aligning seamlessly with the company’s approach to other product lines. Its collection of exceptional watches always demands a second look to truly appreciate the craftsmanship required to achieve these results, as they often showcase techniques and skills seldom employed by more renowned watchmakers. This is evident in the unique Masan Masan pocket watch, where the artistic craft of marquetry, typically executed with small pieces of various kinds of wood, takes an unexpected turn with the use of woven horsehair, resulting in a beautiful outcome. Applied to the dial of this white gold timepiece, this technique creates a brownish oblique texture, agains...
Revolution
Richard Mille’s Time Odyssey: Then and Now | Revo Talks
Join us on an educational journey alongside Constant, where we delve into the world of Richard Mille guided by none other than Wei Koh, the founder of Revolution and an extremely passionate Richard Mille enthusiast, and for good reason. We’ll explore the remarkable evolution of Richard Mille, tracing its trajectory from its inception of the […]
Quill & Pad
The Science of Steel: The Stuff of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements and the Backbone of Watchmaking
Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.
Worn & Wound
My First 100 Days on Instagram
I stopped using Facebook around 2010. As my first and only social media account, it met my needs for years. I used it to learn about upcoming events, to stay up to date on what shenanigans my friends were getting into, but mostly to communicate. Afterall, it was the dark days prior to unlimited texting. A text was 10 cents. Facebook was free. But then unlimited texting became standard. And, as friends went to different colleges and fell out of touch, suddenly only our mom’s friends were commenting on our photos. It was a sign that Facebook’s usefulness had run its course for us. I, like many others, stepped away. Some went to Twitter, which had been growing in popularity for a couple years. Others went to Instagram, the hot new photo sharing app that our parents weren’t on yet. I stayed out of it. For an entire decade, I happily sat on the sidelines as social media trends came and went, oblivious to it all. When I discovered horology, my watch world consisted of only two outlets. First, a welcoming group of local enthusiasts that met monthly and maintained a lively group chat. And YouTube, a platform where I could anonymously absorb information to my heart’s content. Marc from Long Island Watch taught me how to size a bracelet and use a bezel, and Marshall at Wristwatch Revival was nice enough to let me watch him service vintage watches. I loved my little self-imposed bubble. Between my anonymity on Youtube and the snobbery-free environment of local meet-ups, my ...
Worn & Wound
Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup
Worn & Wound is partnering with Oris for an Airstream event on the latest stop of its journey across the United States. Join us as we take over the nation’s capital for food, drinks, watches, and fun. You’ll have the opportunity to discover and shop the latest Oris novelties, take a selfie with Oris Bear, meet VJ Geronimo, Oris CEO – The Americas, and connect with the Worn & Wound team. Best of all, attendees will also receive a complimentary gift. You’ll have the chance to go hands-on with all kinds of watches from the Oris collection, including some very unique recent releases, such as the brand new Hank Aaron Limited Edition. Special gifts will also be included with any and all purchases. You won’t want to miss this! Sunday, September 10, 2023 2 PM – 6 PM Eastern Hook Hall 3400 Georgia Ave. NW Washington, DC 20010 Click here to RSVP and let us know you plan to attend. Be sure to pass the invite along to your friends! The post Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on
Watch collectors love the hunt for their next watch, and auctions are a great place to find the next dream reference you desire. Sure, it can be intimidating at times, with high-profile lots going for exorbitant amounts of money, but these auctions typically have very large catalogues with hundreds of lots. For example, the upcoming … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Corum Looks Forward (and Back) with the Futuristic Concept Watch
Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...
Time+Tide
The Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen is a Danish-inspired diver
There is no shortage of options for dive watches coming from the micro/independent market, so a brand launching a new model on Kickstarter must be offering something unique to be noteworthy of our attention. A novel design, outstanding specs, or top-notch finishing – or all three, combined and neatly wrapped in a package that comes … ContinuedThe post The Nordic Marine Instruments Østersøen is a Danish-inspired diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watch Clasps 101: A Guide to the Various Types of Closures
As long as watches have been worn on the wrist (click here if you’re curious about how long that’s actually been), watchmakers have needed to figure out how to keep their straps, and eventually bracelets, securely fastened. Nowadays, with a plethora of strap and bracelet options available to watch wearers, there are also several styles of these closures, many of which have become brand signatures in their own right. From tang buckles to butterflies to trifolds, we cover the gamut here, listing pros and cons for each. Pin/Tang/Ardillon Buckle The simplest type of closure, and one used only on straps, is a pin buckle, aka a tang or ardillon buckle (“ardillon” is a French word that translates to “tongue”). If you’ve ever worn a belt, you’re familiar with the design, though perhaps not the terminology. One end of the strap - which can be either a two-piece, like most leather and rubber straps, or a one-piece, like a cloth or nylon NATO strap - has a series of perforations called adjustment holes along part of its length. The other end terminates in a simple device with a spring bar attached to a U-shaped bracket and a central piece called a mandel (the “pin” or “tongue”). The bracket slides over the other end of the strap while the mandel slips through one of the adjustment holes, and into a notch on the bracket, to fit the strap to the wearer’s wrist and secure it against coming loose. Pros: It’s easy to use and generally comfortable, as there...
Time+Tide
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm?
Watchmaking is not at all a recent development. Even if you’re only counting from when pocket watches were widespread, that’s still coming up on 300 years of development and evolution. Despite that, shifting cultures and styles are constantly bringing forward new designs, new complications, and new technologies. So with all that in mind, why is … ContinuedThe post Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors
I’ll leave the novelty recap to our upcoming Last Week in Watches column, and there will certainly be a ton of news to come with Geneva Watch Days on the horizon, so below are some watch world headlines you may have missed this week. Tudor openes new boutique in Brisbane with The Hour Glass Tudor, in partnership … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Yema Introduces the New Sous Marine Dive Watch, a Contemporary Diver Designed by a Pro
If you look at the most recent crop of releases from Yema, they tend to be explicitly vintage inspired, or calling upon the brand’s past, in one way or another. The Urban Traveler is their take on a 1970s era integrated bracelet sports watch, and a new Rallygraf, with a look dating to a similar time period, also appeared earlier this summer. So their latest release, the Sous Marine dive watch, feels quite a bit different, in that this really has the appearance of a contemporary sports watch in a variety of key ways. Designed with help from Jason Washington, a Yema ambassador and professional diver, the Sous Marine has the trappings of a modern “pro” dive watch, but remains accessible to desk divers and those looking for some color and competence in an everyday piece. The stainless steel case, which is water resistant to 300 meters, was designed to be compact and wearable, and measures 40.5mm in diameter while being just a hair over 12mm tall (including the sapphire crystal). The muscular crown guards are perhaps the first clue that this watch wasn’t designed purely by browsing old Yema catalogs. The aluminum bezel insert is perhaps a small remnant of the way these things used to be made, but even there the Arabic numerals and and hash marks to aid in timing have been given a luminescent treatment, which to me often feels like a wholeheartedly “contemporary” design decision. The dial is split into multiple sectors, with an inner ring in white that displays t...
Worn & Wound
Vero Introduces a Pair of Watches Inspired by the Long History of Smokey Bear, the Iconic National Symbol of Forest Conservation
Here’s a character watch we never saw coming. To celebrate the 79th birthday of Smokey Bear (famous for his “Only you can prevent wildfires” tagline), Vero is releasing a pair of officially licensed Smokey Bear watches. It’s actually a natural partnership for Vero. As a fire prevention mascot, Smokey is well known in the Pacific Northwest, where Vero is based. And Vero’s brand identity very much leans into the culture of love for the outdoors – it’s a huge part of every watch they make, both in terms of the aesthetics (with designs and colors inspired by Vero’s Oregon home) and their robust nature (the Workhorse comes immediately to mind). These new watches have a charm factor that’s just about off the charts if you grew up seeing Smokey on TV warning you about the dangers of forest fires, but they’re also Vero through and through. First up is the Smokey ‘44 watch, which takes its inspiration from the types of early field style watches that would have been in use the year Smokey made his debut. The dominant feature here is the large cathedral hour hand, paired with Arabic numerals in a distinctive gothic typeface. Vero says this typeface was chosen to match iconic mid century signage found in the US National Parks System. The Smokey ‘44 watch includes the familiar illustration of Smokey (wearing his hat, of course) at the 12:00 position, with “Only You” text right underneath, a reference to his iconic catchphrase. The Smokey ‘64 is perhaps...