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Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe watches May 22, 2024

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe”

Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr.  That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe May 2, 2024

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has long been the gold standard of high watchmaking, pioneering complications and design elements that are now found widely throughout the watch industry - from the first keyless winding system in 1845 to the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996, with many other innovations and historic timepieces in between. Throughout the maison’s long and prestigious history, watches from Patek Philippe have proven to be among the most coveted and valuable on the watch-auction circuit, making up nine of the 10 most expensive watches ever sold and 14 of the top 20. What are these record-breaking Patek Philippe timepieces, what makes them so special, and exactly how much money did they fetch when the hammer came down? Below, we count down the top 10, ending with the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s) Sold at Christie’s in 2010 and still holding its spot in the top 10 most expensive Patek Philippe watches, this exceedingly rare perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case more than doubled its pre-auction estimate. Its matte silver dial features applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials for chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its movement is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to its elite level of finishing as well as its chronometric performance. 9. Patek Philippe Titaniu...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref Apr 30, 2024

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”

One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...

Introducing – Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with sparkling diamond-set versions Monochrome
Omega expands Apr 23, 2024

Introducing – Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with sparkling diamond-set versions

The Speedmaster 38mm made its debut in 2017. Among the most popular iterations of this smaller Speedmaster is the Cappuccino in 18K Sedna™ Gold, with horizontal brown oval subdials and vertical oval date window at 6 o’clock. This year, Omega expands the collection with 8 new sparkling versions set with diamonds and a choice of […]

Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 Another Apr 23, 2024

Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69

Another gold commemorative Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 1969 “Tribute to Astronauts” is coming up for auction. This one belonged to NASA astronaut Richard F. Gordon Jr. (1929–2017). Gordon’s commemorative gold Speedmaster Apollo 11 Omega presented only 34 of these watches to NASA astronauts in 1969 and the years after. Occasionally, these gold Speedmaster models […] Visit Up For Auction: Apollo 12 Astronaut Richard Gordon’s Omega Speedmaster Professional BA145.022-69 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR Fratello
Tudor vs Rolex battle Last Apr 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR

It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Apr 17, 2024

An Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope for the Paris 2024 Olympics

Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...

Introducing – The Norqain Wild One of 1, a Customizable Watch with 3.5 Million Configurations Monochrome
Norqain Wild One Apr 17, 2024

Introducing – The Norqain Wild One of 1, a Customizable Watch with 3.5 Million Configurations

A high-tech, rugged, all-terrain sports watch made of an innovative carbon fibre composite material, the Norqain Wild One (launched in 2022) was an important step in the development of the young, independent, family-owned watchmaking brand. Its elaborate design presents ample opportunity for personalization. Norqain now introduces a fully customizable iteration of this model, incorporating gold […]

Introducing – The new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope to Mark 100 Days to Paris 2024 Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Apr 16, 2024

Introducing – The new Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope to Mark 100 Days to Paris 2024

Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]

First Look – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Apr 12, 2024

First Look – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275

In the previous year, Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, showcasing a bold case design and distinctive dial texture, thus enhancing the brand’s Sport collection with the permanent addition. This followed the anticipation stirred by limited edition models SBGC230 and SGBC231 in 2019, along with the red gold cased SGBC238, launched in […]

Introducing – The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions Monochrome
Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Apr 12, 2024

Introducing – The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions

Yves G. Piaget, the fourth generation of the Piaget watchmaking and jewellery dynasty, launched the sporty-chic Polo watch in 1979. With its ultra-thin gold case and sleek bracelet decorated with horizontal gadroons, the Polo captured the era’s zeitgeist to become a massive hit. In 2016, Piaget gave the Polo a complete makeover, transforming it into […]

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon

At this year’s Watches and Wonders, we get to see new additions to Vacheron Constantin’s popular Overseas collection. The integrated-bracelet sports model receives additions in pink gold with green dials as well as a full-titanium tourbillon model with a blue dial. The new green dials come in four Overseas variants. There is a 41mm Self-Winding […] Visit Introducing: Four Vacheron Constantin Overseas Variants With Green Dials And A Titanium Overseas Tourbillon to read the full article.

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...