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Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II - Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Aug 30, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II - Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically

What makes watches so expensive? It’s a question enthusiasts ask themselves at the beginning of their horological journeys, and later on, a question we find ourselves answering from curious friends and family. The answer comes down to options. Not all watches are powered by in-house movements, but some are. And if that’s what you’re into, companies will ask you to chip in for the research and development required to develop a new caliber. Likewise, not all watches go through extra testing to confirm accuracy to a few seconds per day. But if that level of reliability is a priority for you, plenty of brands are willing to provide that service for a fee. With enough rationalizing, it’s easy to see how even six digit price tags offer fair value. On the other end of the spectrum, if those options that increase MSRP don’t excite you, then maybe a one watch collection of a single $15 Casio F91W makes the most sense…but where’s the fun in that? For most of us, myself included, the sweet spot lies somewhere between the Casios and the Urwerks of the world. In the previous installment of Selling Point that Don’t Sell Me I explored what options excite me on my personal quest for quality on a budget. But enjoying watches at modest price points doesn’t mean I can’t still be picky. And so, for this installment of Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me, I’ve compiled my personal list of deal breakers and pet peeves. This list is less focused on keeping costs low, and mo...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors Time+Tide
TAG Heuer announces new trio Aug 18, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors

I’ll leave the novelty recap to our upcoming Last Week in Watches column, and there will certainly be a ton of news to come with Geneva Watch Days on the horizon, so below are some watch world headlines you may have missed this week. Tudor openes new boutique in Brisbane with The Hour Glass Tudor, in partnership … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Tudor Boutique in Brisbane and TAG Heuer announces new trio of sports ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni Aug 4, 2023

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni

The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… Time+Tide
Aug 4, 2023

AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback…

To solid caseback, or exhibition caseback, that is the question. Or at least it was the question Fergus raised when they wrote the latest Making the Case column, arguing for solid casebacks to make a comeback. We thought the solid versus exhibition caseback dilemma would be very divisive, and after taking the query to Instagram it is … ContinuedThe post AGREE OR DISAGREE: You shared your thoughts on whether or not solid casebacks should make a comeback… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2023

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Collaborate Jul 4, 2023

CronotempVs & TAG Heuer Collaborate To Celebrate 60 Years of the Carrera With New Carrera CC

The collectors group known as CronotempVs has revealed their latest project, and it’s with none other than TAG Heuer in conjunction with the 60th anniversary of the famed Carrera chronograph. The open collaboration done with the collector community uses the modern 42mm Carrera case, and dials in plenty of special details in the process on the dial and the movement. The watch is called the Carrera CC (CronotempVs Collectors), and it takes inspiration from the 1974 Carrera ref. 1153BN, aka the ‘Yachting’ so named for the orange segments within the minute totalizer.  CronotempVs and TAG Heuer have created a fitting modern tribute to the 1153BN with the Carrera CC, incorporating the same character of the original in the modern Carrera chassis. This is not the 39mm ‘glassbox’ template that we were quite fond of when we saw it in Geneva (and are currently working on our long term review), but it does bring the caliber TH20-00 into the equation via the modern Carrera case we’ve come to know and (maybe) love. This platform  captures a specific fan favorite reference and highlights its versatility, as well as the timelessness of the design language as a whole. The original 1153BN was presented in a cushion case, with a dark blue dial and orange accents, and these are the starting blocks of the Carrera CC. The contrasting chapter ring and orange accents have been put to use brilliantly here, at once honoring the original while taking it into a new direction altogether....

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph BWD collaborates Jun 19, 2023

Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

BWD collaborates with Wes Lang to bring the artist’s signature flourishes to the iconic Carrera Chronograph Wes Lang is known for his recurring figures and symbols- horses, reapers, skulls, birds, the indigenous American and other post-pop Americana iconography The watch is a harmonious melding of Jack Heuer and Wes Lang’s design codes in a rose … ContinuedThe post Bamford Watch Department x Wes Lang present a Limited Edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Jun 6, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 and AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition

Having already debuted an oversized take on the ref. 765 AVI “Co-Pilot” of 1953, Breitling now introduces the Classic AVI Chronograph 42, a scaled-down version that pays homage to the vintage original. Unlike its bigger brother, the 46 mm Super AVI GMT that features a second time zone function, the Classic AVI is a no-frills watch with just the time and chronograph. The Classic AVI makes its debut with a range of regular-production models, each inspired by a historical fighter plane, alongside the limited-edition AVI ref. 765 1964 Re-Edition. Classic AVI Chronograph 42 Curtiss P-40 Warhawk Initial thoughts The Super AVI GMT is a vintage-inspired chronograph with an appealing design, but with the drawback of the 46 mm case – huge by even by modern standards. The introduction of a more compact version is welcome, even if this addition further expands Breitling’s extensive (and sometimes confusing) catalogue.  With its smaller case, the Classic AVI has arguably better proportions than its bigger brother, with dimensions better suited to the vintage-inspired styling. And because it is equipped with a Valjoux movement (otherwise known as the Breitling Caliber 23), the Classic AVI is amongst the most affordable Breitling chronographs, adding to its appeal. The P-51 Mustang The P-51 Mustang is the standout among the Classic AVI line-up. It has classic pilot’s chronograph aesthetics with a black dial and faux-patina Arabic numerals that provide a nostalgic feel.  But e...

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak May 25, 2023

Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm

New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” marks second Marvel collaboration after “Black Panther” Continues tradition of a limited edition of 250 pieces, with a piece unique “Black-suit Spider-Man” to be auctioned for charity The solid white-gold, hand-painted and engraved Spider-Man figure requires no less than 50 hours of work When Audemars Piguet debuted … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet unveils new Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph May 20, 2023

New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race

New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph celebrates the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race UN states its Carbonium timing bezel is largely made from recycled fishing nets and aeroplane fuselage offcuts, offering a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites Ulysse Nardin is the official timekeeping partner for The Ocean Race, a gruelling … ContinuedThe post New Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph Limited Edition honours the 50th anniversary of the legendary sustainability-focused race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer May 8, 2023

Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel

If you’re in the market for a good two-tone sports watch, then the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel and Ethical 18k Rose Gold may just be the watch you’re looking for! What We Love Wearability and comfortTHAT Iris of the Eagle dial!Sturdy, good looking movement What We Don’t Lack of taper on the braceletNo ability for size adjustmentsClasp not easy to open Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard? The Alpine Eagle in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool. For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose G...

Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection Worn & Wound
Hublot Continues their Collaboration Apr 19, 2023

Hublot Continues their Collaboration with Tattoo Artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi in the New Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Collection

Hublot and tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi are back again for another entry in the Sang Bleu collection, a series of watches named for Plescia-Buchi’s tattoo studios located in Los Angeles, Zurich, and London. The Sang Bleu watches always incorporate complex geometry and the watch design equivalent of the intricate line work that is core to Plesia-Buchi’s design language. These design elements translate remarkably well to a watch, if you’re at all inclined toward the abstract, at least. Up until now, the Big Bang has been Plesia-Buchi’s preferred canvas, but that changes here with a selection of watches using the barrel shaped Spirit of Big Bang as a starting point.  As with previous Sang Bleu watches, the new editions seen here are marked by a series of facets throughout the case that create a compelling, sculpted look. The overlapping geometric shapes have a grid-like consistency and at some angles appear to take on the appearance of armor. Hublot has given Plescia-Buchi a great deal of freedom to work outside the normal constraints of the Spirit of Big Bang case shape. While that case is the clear inspiration for these watches and certainly falls under its larger umbrella, the lines of the case have been reworked to a certain extent, and the impression it gives from the front is quite a bit different in these Sang Bleu watches.  The dial is sapphire and provides a view to the skeletonized chronograph movement underneath it. Time is read by rotating disc “...

Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS Worn & Wound
Nomos There are Apr 14, 2023

Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS

There are a few moments in life worth commemorating with a gift set that combines timeless tools and fun-infused usefulness. One of these is upon us, as spring signals the tossing of winter coats and also graduation caps for many students. The moment we laid eyes on the new dial colorways of the beloved NOMOS Club Campus, we were immediately inspired to curate a spring-themed collection of giftable gear for that upcoming graduate. These gifts are that blend of form, function, and fun that make them endlessly useful, yet totally on trend, all at once. The new NOMOS Club Campus models for 2023 come in two new dial colors, ideal for accompanying those springtime life moments. Shown here, we see the Club Campus 38 electric green with a 38mm case, as well as its cream coral counterpart with a versatile 36mm diameter. Both eye-catching timepieces sport the part-Arabic/part-Roman California dial setup that the Club Campus has become known for. These minimalist, mechanical marvels strike that ideal balance between premium and practical. With 100 meters of water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, and a wrist-hugging 8.2mm case height, the Club Campus fits squarely into that go-anywhere, do-anything category. Not to mention, an engravable caseback can make this gift even more memorable. PURCHASE NOW The post Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Apr 11, 2023

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph

The Autodromo Group B is something of a modern legend around here. It’s a watch that works on every level, from concept to execution, and it remains one of the most compelling micro-brand/small independent offerings even now, 8 years after its initial release (particularly in Night Stage form, if you ask me). The Group B has always been a time-only three-hander, but that changes this week with the introduction of a new kind of Group B, a manually wound chronograph kind of Group B. Released in a range of five unique colorways exclusively through the Hodinkee Shop, the new watches are as bright and vivacious as the cars that inspired them.  The Group B takes inspiration, and indeed its name, from the short lived racing series from the ‘80s, which birthed some of the all-time great racing cars and their homologated road cars. The new Group B Chronograph watches reflect details and colors seen in and on the cars of that era, bringing bright hits of primary colors to the dials and hands that feel authentic to the subject matter without betraying anything too specific. Because of that, these watches should land pretty well even for folks unfamiliar with, or uninterested in, the racing tie in. There’s even a Hodinkee specific colorway, the H01, that applies subtle shades of green for a more subdued look. One of the many things that make time-only Group B so great are its impeccable dimensions. The 39mm titanium and steel case measures 39mm in diameter, and a scant 9mm in t...