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Fratello
One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces a host of new timepieces for 2024, including one Haute Joaillerie piece. These novelties include new variations of the Overseas, Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, Patrimony Manual-Winding, Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date and Égérie Moon Phase, as well the Égérie The Pleats of Time concept watch and Haute Joaillerie Grand Lady Kalla. Vacheron ConstantinRead More
SJX Watches
Cartier’s suite of Animal Jewellery watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024 includes the striking Pebble “Tigre”. Described by its maker as inspired by “an imaginary encounter between zebra and crocodile that… is both graphic and organic”, the watch is essentially a Pebble with a double-layer bezel decorated in lacquer and precious stones. Watch aficionados will be disappointed that it is a traditional jewellery watch – more jewellery than watch – and the movement inside is quartz. Initial thoughts Thematically, the new Pebble is similar to the Crash Tigre with its abstract, animal-patterned cased. Though it’s in keeping with Cartier’s tradition of animal-inspired jewellery watches, the new Pebble is nonetheless surprising since it’s a striking departure from the traditional Pebble. The watch is slightly larger than the conventional Pebble, particularly in terms of thickness, but it’s still relatively compact. But it has instant presence thanks to the extravagant decoration. It’s unfortunately that the movement is quartz, but that is typical for most of Cartier’s high jewellery watches. This will limit its appeal for mechanical watch enthusiasts, but fans of Cartier’s jewelled form watches will appreciate the design and execution. The Cartier Crash Tigre Wild things The Animal Jewellery collection of 2024 is made up of watches modelled on animals that are a recurring theme in Cartier jewellery, namely panthers, crocodiles, and tigers. Most ...
SJX Watches
Piaget does the unexpected to mark its 150th anniversary. Instead of a special edition of an existing timepiece, Piaget has profoundly reworked the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) – endowing it with a flying tourbillon. The thinnest tourbillon ever by some margin, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary measures 41.5 mm in diameter and stands just 2 mm high, crystal included. In other words, Piaget installed a tourbillon in the AUC while maintaining the same overall height. Initial thoughts The original AUC of 2018 was an impressive example of micro engineering. The innovative movement construction resulted in a case thickness of just 2 mm, while still managing to look like a conventional watch, as opposed to the panel-like appearance of the even thinner Richard Mille RM UP-01. Now Piaget has built upon the concept by adding a tourbillon to the slim construction. A tourbillon is not a practical addition, since chronometry was never the main point of the AUC. Instead, this is an exercise in pushing the limits of micro engineering. Piaget’s engineer surmounted the challenge and the result is nothing short of amazing. It’s crucial to note that adding a tourbillon to the AUC is not merely adding a tourbillon. Practically the entire calibre was reworked – according to Piaget one 90% of the parts are new – right down to reducing the number of spokes in the wheels to minimise energy consumption. Beyond its mechanics, the AUC Tourbillon also...
SJX Watches
For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...
Monochrome
After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]
Quill & Pad
Art is the expression or application of human creative skill and imagination. Usually, the artist has a message that they hope that their art conveys, but sometimes the art (if it’s good enough) overwhelms the intended message. Ian Skellern experienced that with the Louis Moinet ‘Around the World in Eight Days’ Unique Piece collection.
Worn & Wound
The date: 3 November 2016. The place: Saatchi Gallery, London. The Fears watch company is relaunched by Nicholas Bowman Scargill in a story that most Fearsfans are now familiar with. The watch that relaunched Fears was not the popular and archetypal Brunswick, but the Redcliff Date. This quartz watch made use of the now-familiar ‘Pipette’ motif but was an altogether more everyday watch compared to the dressier Brunswick that followed a year later and catapulted Fears to success. In late February, Fears launched an update to the Redcliff line and, to differentiate it from that original model, named it the Redcliff 39.5 Date. Nicholas was kind enough to show the range to me in a London pub just before release, and even with dingy lighting it was clear that the quality and attention to detail were present. I have now been able to spend a little more time with the Pewter Grey in some lighter surroundings, though my initial impressions remain fairly unchanged. Is this a watch for every occasion? Jumping straight to the dial, I think this Pewter Grey is the best of the bunch. The Raven Black is probably more versatile. The Cherry Red makes a strong first impression. The ‘boutique only’ Mallard Green is a subtle gem. However, the Pewter Grey is a rich amalgamation of the best parts of each. The strong vertical brushing of the dial changes the shade from a bright and shimmering silver to a more brooding slate grey. I have to say I prefer the dial at its lightest in bright ...
Worn & Wound
Swedish brand Bravur was founded in 2011 with the goal to design, develop and hand build mechanical watches to order. Essentially, crafting watches to the highest standards, never compromising on craftsmanship and quality. They build all their mechanical watches in a small workshop in Båstad and having their own assembly gives them maximum control over their production. Inspired by the founder’s shared enthusiasm for bicycle racing in the southern region of Sweden, their latest 2024 release is a new range within their ‘Team Heritage’ series. There are three new models, the REN, PEU and MER, each representing an iconic cycling team from the 1950s to 80s. The measurements are 37mm in diameter, 44.6mm from lug-to-lug and only 11.4mm thick, while a Swiss Made Sellita SW300 oversees the timekeeping. The muse for the REN edition is the Renault team jersey, the very team that dominated the sport from 1978 to 1983. Its white sandwich dial cleverly displays the bold yellow, black, and white color pattern which characterized that team. The PEU edition’s austere scheme represents the legendary checkerboard pattern of the storied Peugeot team of the 1960s through to the mid-80s. Its excellent monochromatic legibility is ever so lightly garnished with a hint of green accents. The MER edition is the wildest of the three, inspired by the Mercier team that holds the record for the most participations in the Tour de France. Its textured purple dial is surrounded by a bright yellow...
Worn & Wound
Back in March of last year, Zach Weiss reviewed the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique. This was a case where the headline really said it all, but of course the whole review is worth a read for a fuller context. I had some hands-on time with this watch as well, and agree completely with his sentiments. Describing the watch as “very reasonable” is really essential to understanding it. It’s not extraordinary, it’s not a revolution in watchmaking. It’s a deeply adequate and relentlessly normal execution of tried and true sports watch format: the skin diver. And that’s OK! The entire idea of the modern skin diver is really based on the fact that a handful of brands really nailed the design decades ago. It’s not a platform that needs to be played with. There are lots of new versions of this type of watch from a huge variety of brands, and I think “reasonable” is really what most of them should be shooting for. Vulcain has just announced a total of four new variants of the Nautique Skindiver, and they strive to offer a little more variety than the initial drop from last spring. New dial variants include options in orange, brown, and green, as well as a new reference with a bronze case and black dial, and a very striking variant in yellow gold plate with a dial in a dark shade of blue. This one, I have to admit, is a little outside the bounds of reasonable, and might be striving for something a little more. All of the new Skindiver Nautique variants have the same 38...
Fratello
The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has long been one of my favorite GMT watches. Not only do I like its functionality and overall design, but I also appreciate how Zodiac has never been afraid to use some amazingly bright colors for the GMT bezels. As a result, the Super Sea Wolf GMT has always […] Visit Zodiac Releases Two New Versions Of Its Popular Super Sea Wolf GMT to read the full article.
Hodinkee
It's possible the Chronomètre Contemporain II is the best watch being made today, and now Rexhepi has expanded the lineup.
Monochrome
The competition for ultra-thin watches is more intense than ever. Watches with a thinness that would have been unimaginable a few years ago have recently been unveiled, with manufacturers squeezing complications into minimal space and tirelessly chasing microns. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo saga has garnered widespread recognition in this realm. The brand’s remarkable series of records […]
Fratello
The introduction of the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter celebrates the 25th anniversary of the first nonstop balloon flight around the world. It does so with a smoky orange dial and a piece of the history-making balloon on the case back. But more importantly, it’s a completely new watch. The 2013-introduced Aerospace Evo now has a […] Visit A Swift Hands-On With The New Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter to read the full article.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Czapek whets our appetite ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, pre-releasing the handsome Antarctique Mount Erebus, the first gold version of its successful luxury sports watch. But there is more coming our way from the creative brand: two cool new versions of the Antarctique and, more importantly, a new collection, Promenade. The New […]
Monochrome
Jacob & Co. is renowned for crafting some of the wildest, craziest and most complicated watches. The design can be polarizing, but one undeniable fact remains: these watches are truly spectacular. The debut of the inaugural Astronomia in 2014 caused quite a stir at Baselworld. Staging a poetic portrayal of the celestial world, its concept […]
Deployant
Czapek introduces a new collection called the Promenade for Watches & Wonders 2024. The collection has a new case design and launches with 3 models.
Monochrome
One trend that was once dominated by the big players in the watch industry and caught on with independent watch brands is the luxury sports watch. As one of the most popular, if not the most popular, watch categories, there are many candidates out there vying for your attention. While some flaunt their maritime or […]
Time+Tide
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2024, this verdant Chopard is an elegant blend of traditional and modern aesthetics.The post Chopard goes green again for the L.U.C XPS Forest Green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
We are now officially less than one month away from our very first Windup Watch Fair of the year, and it’s shaping up to be one for the books. Our three fairs each year in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York bring thousands of people together. Not only is it a chance for consumers and brands to connect; it is a wonderful opportunity for our community to gather, enjoy new products, and share a unique experience. Learn more about the events here. We are now officially less than one month away from our very first Windup Watch Fair of the year, and it’s shaping up to be one for the books. Our three fairs each year in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York bring thousands of people together. Not only is it a chance for consumers and brands to connect; it is a wonderful opportunity for our community to gather, enjoy new products, and share a unique experience. Learn more about the events here. The post Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Is Less Than A Month Away! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
A little while ago, a copy of vintage watch collector Aashdin K. Billimoria’s new book landed on my desk. That name might ring a bell for you as he’s also the author of Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - The History of a Legend. And now he’s proudly presenting his book titled A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage […] Visit Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
And just like that, another year passes. And we are on our way to Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) 2024. Here is what to expect for the next week.
Quill & Pad
Back in the 1970s, Steve McQueen was the king of cool: he was a world-famous movie star and a prominent racecar driver. So it's no surprise that the Heuer Monaco he wore in the film 'Le Mans' instantly became a hit. But what happened to the Monaco models used on set and where are they today? Chris Malburg interviews the propmaster to find out.
Monochrome
Temperatures are rising, birds are starting to chirp in the early morning, and the sun rises earlier every day. That means only one thing; spring, and by extension summer is upon us! And while most dream of that upcoming summer holiday, we watch geeks are already thinking about the perfect watch for our leisurely or […]
Fratello
It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Made for J.B. Champion, it's one of the most important Pateks ever made, and it's appearing at Sotheby's this weekend.
Deployant
The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse represents a fascinating blend of vintage inspiration and modern horology. Its design pays homage to the brand's storied past while embracing contemporary aesthetics and functionality. The dial looks like a regular 3 hands timepiece but is actually a 60 seconds monopusher with a nicely finished column wheel horizontal clutch movement.
Monochrome
Today the Petrolhead Corner features a car that I have been wanting to write about for quite a while now, as it is equal parts stunning and bonkers. Built in the late 1980s, this barge-like BMW is a true one-off with a prototype engine in the front. But not just any engine, as it is a […]
Time+Tide
Tudor's new manufacturing centre has revealed how it has prioritised efficiency, productivity and automation above all else.The post The secrets behind the Tudor manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As many people began to prepare for Easter festivities, hundreds of knife collectors, EDC Enthusiasts, and cutlery critics lined up for the 44th New York Custom Knife Show. This show, commonly referred to as NYCKS, offers an intimate setting for makers to connect with their customers and for collectors to add something special to their collections. Even before the show begins, eager customers queue up, hoping that they can be the first to a certain booth and secure a new piece of gear. Just as people lined up for the newest MoonSwatch, EDC enthusiasts made sure to arrive bright and early. While in line, I had the opportunity to chat with several other enthusiasts and was allowed to examine some very high-end custom knives. Similarly to how watch enthusiasts are known to pass around their latest acquisitions, we all chatted and examined gear from manufacturers we might not have heard of, or hadn’t had the opportunity to purchase from. Arguably, the one thing that makes these shows so special is the opportunity to connect with people at the show, whether it’s a brand that you’ve been loyal to for years, a new vendor yet to be discovered, or meeting others interested in the hobby. On the first day, I was able to quickly catch up with some old friends, Tom from Notorious EDC and Eddie from OEG EDC. Both of these guys are solid pillars of the community, and an absolute blast to hang around. I was also able to catch up with a bunch of other content creators, including @p...
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