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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget Fratello
Grand Seiko vibe May 16, 2024

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget

It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.

Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream Fratello
May 16, 2024

Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream

Most of us know the young brand Awake from its NASA-approved “Mission To Earth” timepieces from 2022. In particular, the white and red model with its characteristic NASA branding stood out immediately. However, after that, Awake created several collections based on the brand’s modern design signature. The latest addition to the lineup is a bit […] Visit Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream to read the full article.

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight Fratello
Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - May 16, 2024

Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight

Many of us have developed a deep affinity for Hajime Asaoka’s Art Deco lines and Kurono Tokyo sub-brand. The story of Asaoka-san creating Kurono Tokyo so that he could actually wear one of his designs never gets old. In fact, it only deepens my respect for him. Now the Japanese watchmaker closes a circle by […] Visit Introducing: The Kurono Tokyo 2024 Anniversary Reiwa - Its Final Spot In The Limelight to read the full article.

Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition Fratello
Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition May 16, 2024

Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition

Today’s Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 is an example of a watch that has already come and gone. However, as space fans, we wanted to share it with you because it may have rocketed past your orbit. This was a surprising one when it hit my mailbox for many reasons that we will soon see. Let’s take […] Visit Entering The Space Race: The Venezianico Bucintoro 1969 Limited Edition to read the full article.

The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape Fratello
May 15, 2024

The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape

Contrary to what the title of this article may imply, independent watchmaking is nothing new. Most of the big names have been around for decades, and even their more meteoric rise is several years underway now. Still, the rise of independents is an indicator of a changing landscape that reaches beyond this handful of exalted […] Visit The Rise Of The Independents: Changing The Horological Landscape to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
Yema May 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris Fratello
Certina King Seiko May 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris

Full disclosure: I dreaded the moment I had to choose the best watches under €2,500. Why? Because what I think is under €2,500 isn’t anymore. Yeah, go ahead. Call me out of touch and old-fashioned; it’s okay. But you know what? My list of three watches came to me in a wave of clarity. And […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Lex’s Picks From Certina, King Seiko, And Oris to read the full article.

Four EDC Picks With Free Domestic Shipping Worn & Wound
May 14, 2024

Four EDC Picks With Free Domestic Shipping

We have an exciting announcement to make here at the Windup Watch Shop: all products under $100 are now also eligible for free domestic shipping in the continental United States! This essentially opens our entire online store to enjoy this new perk. Our goal is to make it even easier and more appealing to shop the very best products – whether watches, clocks, gear, or straps at any price point. Today’s special highlight is on some of the best gear under $100 available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. From multi-tools, to knives, to storage solutions – there’s something useful in here for just about everybody. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultation to answer any questions you have – or even set up a demo. Reach out today to learn more! We have an exciting announcement to make here at the Windup Watch Shop: all products under $100 are now also eligible for free domestic shipping in the continental United States! This essentially opens our entire online store to enjoy this new perk. Our goal is to make it even easier and more appealing to shop the very best products – whether watches, clocks, gear, or straps at any price point. Today’s special highlight is on some of the best gear under $100 available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. From multi-tools, to knives, to storage solutions – there’s something useful in here for just about everybody. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultation to answe...

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World Teddy Baldassarre
May 14, 2024

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World

Watchmaking is a trade that goes back to the 16th Century, and building mystique and legitimacy on a long, historical legacy is a common theme we find in many companies that make watches today - particularly those whose roots reach back for a century or more. But which companies have really been making watches the longest? In a way, it’s a sticky question, one that can lead one into a minefield of semantics and trivia. Jaquet Droz, for example, claims a founding date of 1738 but the modern version of the company was established in 2000 when Swatch Group acquired the name. A. Lange & Söhne carries on the tradition of the original company founded in Saxony in 1845 but has really been in operation only since 1990 (and to be fair, the company is very transparent about this). The Swiss-based Graham brand traces its legacy all the way back to the London atelier of British watchmaker George Graham in 1695 but has no connection to it other than design inspiration. In assembling the following list of the oldest watch brands still making watches today, I went with the companies that, in my judgment, can legitimately claim a direct lineage to the original founding, even allowing for ownership changes and periods of dormancy along the way. Without further ado, here is a countdown of the 15 oldest watch brands in the world today; you may be surprised by who is included as well as by who is excluded. 15. Zenith (1865) Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 when he founded...

Depancel Introduces their First Série-R Watch with an Automatic Chronograph Caliber Worn & Wound
May 14, 2024

Depancel Introduces their First Série-R Watch with an Automatic Chronograph Caliber

Depancel has carved out a nice little niche for themselves making highly specific automotive and racing inspired watches. These watches are frequently geared directly at watch collectors who are already steeped in car culture, with colorways inspired by classic racing liverys and case designs that emulate specific vehicle designs. Their square shaped watch, the Série-R, might appear somewhat derivative of another famous square watch connected to the racing world, but it has its own thing happening that sets it apart just enough. And this one, surprisingly, is the first chronograph in the Série-R collection.  Previous iterations of the Série-R have primarily been the home of a calendar complication with an execution that is chronograph-like, featuring subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the calendar indicators. The new Série-R, in a “Tangerine” colorway and limited to 300 pieces, could have been easily predicted by Depancel fans. We get effectively the same layout as the calendar, but we’ve entered race mode with a three register chrono.  The new Tangerine colorway looks great, with a blue base dial with a sunray finish in the interior circular section and vertical ridges outside to fill the square. Orange and white accents figure prominently throughout, with a bold stripe down the dial’s left side, crossing the 9:00 subdial.  The case might appear like a standard square at a glance, but there’s a little more going on. The shape is meant to evoke a radiator grille,...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen Fratello
May 14, 2024

Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen

As I become more familiar with the Sternglas brand, I realize I’m not as tuned in as I thought. On the face of it, this Hamburg-based watch brand embraces minimalism in its designs, albeit with considered bursts of color. The popular Hamburg line of watches, named after the brand’s home city, is a typical example. […] Visit Hands-On With The Sternglas Hamburg Chrono Regatta And Hamburg Edition Hafen to read the full article.

“A Great Deal Of Rough Treatment” - When The Rolex Explorer 1016 Went Caving Fratello
Rolex Explorer 1016 Went Caving May 14, 2024

“A Great Deal Of Rough Treatment” - When The Rolex Explorer 1016 Went Caving

This is a story of pioneering adventurers. It is a tale about a group of expert cave divers that may never have surfaced if not for the tireless efforts of volunteers at the Oxford University Cave Club. It was also an opportunity for the watch brand Rolex to test out its Explorer 1016 on the […] Visit “A Great Deal Of Rough Treatment” - When The Rolex Explorer 1016 Went Caving to read the full article.

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z Monochrome
MeisterSinger May 14, 2024

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z

With their single-handed time indications, MeisterSinger’s watches offer a refreshing change of tempo to our fast-paced, hyper-accurate digital universe. Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler in Münster, Germany, the brand’s inspiration resides in the sundials and single-hand tower clocks of the Middle Ages. In 2004, the brand released a special watch called the Edition 1Z. […]

Fratello On Air: Great Recent Watches That Were Quickly Forgotten Fratello
May 14, 2024

Fratello On Air: Great Recent Watches That Were Quickly Forgotten

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air, discussing several great recent watches that were quickly forgotten. Attention spans are short these days, which can be unfair to some excellent releases. We shed light on some of our favorite unheralded pieces. Enjoy the show! What have you done for me lately? We live in […] Visit Fratello On Air: Great Recent Watches That Were Quickly Forgotten to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Trio Of 2024 Panerai Luna Rossa Releases - PAM01405, PAM01466, And PAM1507 Fratello
Panerai Luna Rossa Releases - May 14, 2024

Hands-On With A Trio Of 2024 Panerai Luna Rossa Releases - PAM01405, PAM01466, And PAM1507

Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2024 campaign was completely centered around the brand’s involvement in the America’s Cup. The brand is a sponsor of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team that competes in the prestigious sailing competition. Even the Panerai booth at the fair was one big Luna Rossa fest, with yachting graphics and even a […] Visit Hands-On With A Trio Of 2024 Panerai Luna Rossa Releases - PAM01405, PAM01466, And PAM1507 to read the full article.

Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces May 13, 2024

Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial

We’ve been covering Farer for a long time on Worn & Wound. To say they are a core brand in our little enthusiast corner of the watch world would be an understatement, and it’s been exciting to see them grow, experiment, and further develop their own unique design language. For as long as I’ve been covering the brand, it’s been the colors that have stood out. They have just always had a knack for picking interesting and unusual color combinations. And their typical release strategy underscores that point – they’ll frequently release a handful of watches in the same style at one time, each adopting different color palettes, and thus emphasizing the impact those decisions have on the finished product. Their latest release, the Banzare GMT, is not part of a multi-watch drop, but it does feature a striking new dial texture for the brand in a color that some die hard Farer fans are sure to appreciate.  The GMT has become a signature complication for Farer, probably because it gives the brand a chance to explore colors and contrasts in natural ways. Think of the different elements of the dial that need to be navigated here: the dial itself, the main hour markers, the time telling hands, the GMT hand, the GMT hour scale, the date, the minute track, and we haven’t even gotten to the various wordmarks yet. There’s a real challenge in making sure all of those elements play well together, and it’s something Farer has always excelled at.  The Banzare gets a plum col...

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Fortis S-41 Stratoliner May 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Windup Meet & Greet: The Fortis S-41 Stratoliner is Designed and Tested for Space Tourism

While at the recent 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, we had the chance to catch up with Andreas Bentele of the Fortis team. When asked what his favorite Fortis watch was at the fair, he immediately responded with his love for the Fortis S-41 Stratoliner. The Stratoliner is the first watch designed and tested for the burgeoning space tourism industry! Check out this Windup Meet & Greet video to learn more. The post [VIDEO] Windup Meet & Greet: The Fortis S-41 Stratoliner is Designed and Tested for Space Tourism appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Yema May 13, 2024

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition

A micro-rotor dive watch? For under $2,000? At first blush, the concept may seem outrageous. After all, micro-rotor movements are typically reserved for high-end dress watches and complicated Indies. They’re hardly at home in the sort of accessible dive watches so many of us like, but Yema has - for the second time this year - dropped a svelte micro-rotor-powered dive watch, and they certainly have my attention. Yema is not a new name in the watch space. The brand has been around in some form or another since 1948 and, since its return to French ownership in 2008, the brand has been working hard to build itself into a leading French watchmaker. While they are best known today for their vintage-inspired dive watches like the Superman, over the last few years, Yema has slowly been building up a quiver of French-made manufacture movements produced in France’s own version of the Vallée de Joux, the watchmaking hub of Morteau. To date, they have introduced three movements in this series of French-designed calibers, with more surely to come. Though still reliant on Switzerland for regulating organs and some movement parts (not a bad thing on any level, even Roger Smith uses Swiss-made mainsprings), these movements have been a big step for the brand, and are far from being simple ETA or Sellita clones, like we so often see. The first of these was the CMM.20, a slim 3.7mm ultra-thin micro-rotor movement, with near-COSC accuracy, an anti-magnetic construction, a 70-hour po...

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec May 13, 2024

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation

Some brands want a global presence, while others are perfectly happy to focus on a much smaller part of the world. Such is the case for Jiro Katayama, a Japanese watchmaker who produces watches under the name of Otsuka Lotec. This low-key but high-impact independent watchmaking atelier has been making the rounds online despite selling […]

Introducing: The Fortis AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer Fratello
Fortis AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission May 13, 2024

Introducing: The Fortis AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer

For decades, Fortis has enjoyed a well-earned reputation as a maker of space-ready watches. Until now, most of those watches have traveled to the International Space Station. Today’s Fortis AMADEE-24, however, was built for Mars. More specifically, it was made for a simulation mission that recently occurred in Armenia. Watch enough TV, and it’s easy […] Visit Introducing: The Fortis AMADEE-24 Mars Analog Mission Timer to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More Fratello
Christopher Ward Unimatic May 13, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More

Picking the best watches under €2,500 is tough. There are so many different options. Next to the world of microbrands, the world of bigger brands also opens up nicely with €2,500 to spend. This made the search for possible options quite extensive. You could even call it a mission because the goal of this list […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Jorg’s Picks From Formex, Christopher Ward, Unimatic, And More to read the full article.

Four Unique Lume Dial Watches Worn & Wound
May 12, 2024

Four Unique Lume Dial Watches

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we take a special journey down the path of lume dial watches. Historically limited in their production and seldom seen on mainstream watches, fully-lumed dials offer exceptional visibility in the dark and represent an aesthetic category of their own. They are most commonly found on sports watches – particularly dive watches – and can typically be sniffed out thanks to the dial’s creamy hue; however we will soon see this is not always the case. These are our picks for some of the most interesting and fun lume dial watches from the Shop. Reach out to our team if you have any questions! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watch...

WatchCharts May 2024 Watch Market Update: Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining Quill & Pad
Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining May 12, 2024

WatchCharts May 2024 Watch Market Update: Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining

With Watches & Wonders and the associated speculation around discontinuations and new releases firmly in the rearview mirror, the secondary watch market in April 2024 has continued to follow the longer term trend of decline. In this report, we summarize the high level trends from last month, give an update on the Rolex Pepsi, and cover some of the best and worst performing collections in April.

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Christopher Ward Twelve X – one May 12, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair

In this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we’re coming to from the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason in San Francisco, where just last week nearly 100 watch and gear brands came together for the biggest Windup Watch Fair on record. It was a truly great time, and we’re excited to do it again in Chicago in just a few months! As is customary for the Windup editions of A Week in Watches, we’re bringing you highlights from the show this week. Managing Editor Zach Kazan talks to Mike Pearson about the all new Christopher Ward Twelve X – one of the true sensations not just of Windup, but in the watch world at large over the last few weeks. He also chats with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill from Fears and Rob Caplan from Topper Jewelers about their latest collaboration, which launched at the fair, and he spends some time with another new release from Paulin that was also a huge hit with the San Francisco crowd. Finally, Zach chats with Trip Henderson, Founder of Lōcī Watches, a young California based brand making their Windup Watch Fair debut.  The post A Week in Watches Ep. 80 – Highlights from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.