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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Why I’ve already forged a special connection with my new Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126234 Time+Tide
Omega Nov 18, 2021

A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Why I’ve already forged a special connection with my new Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126234

If I had to pinpoint the early origins of my journey to becoming a watch lover, I would attribute it to inheriting the passion for watches from my grandfather. Throughout decades of his career he sold watches for a living, anything from Victorionox door-to-door to Rolex and Omega in various authorised dealers. While he loved … ContinuedThe post A MONTH ON THE WRIST: Why I’ve already forged a special connection with my new Rolex Datejust 36 ref. 126234 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years Nov 18, 2021

The Patek Philippe Museum Celebrates 20 Years

Situated behind Geneva’s Old Town and a 20-minute walk from the watchmaker’s Salon facing the lake, the Patek Philippe Museum is one of the world’s greatest collection of timepieces and mechanical objects. Made up of over 2,500 items, the museum is almost singular in the breadth and depth of its collection. Started in 1980 by Philippe Stern, then the President of Patek Philippe and father of Thierry, the collection is now overseen by curator Dr Peter Friess. The museum’s collection can falls into two broad categories: the history of mechanical timekeeping in Europe until 1839, and Patek Philippe timepieces from its founding in 1839. One of the prized items in the former category is a 400-year old, enamelled timekeeper by Jehan Cremsdorff, one of the oldest and most perfectly preserved pocket watches known. The entrance to the museum, which on a recent Saturday had a line outside across two blocks Sedate in dark wood and green carpeted floors, the galleries of the museum occupy two floors, with the third floor being an 8,000-book library and a small exhibit dedicated to the Patek Philippe company that includes a reconstruction of the office once occupied by Henri Stern, grandfather of Thierry and father of Philippe. Guided tours are offered, as is an audio guide. Interestingly, the central section of the library is a display of miniature enamel objects – but not incorporating watches – made in Geneva in the 18th and 19th centuries. Visitors start on the thir...

Louis Moinet Creates 8 Breathtaking Wristwatches In Marvels Of The World Collection Of Unique Pieces Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Nov 16, 2021

Louis Moinet Creates 8 Breathtaking Wristwatches In Marvels Of The World Collection Of Unique Pieces

While every one of this boutique brand's watches is a testimony to Louis Moinet's horological storytelling, the 8 Marvels of the World do this perhaps even more intensely. These eight watches each pay tribute to a unique historical structure highlighting the heights of human civilization. Louis Moinet worked with a large team of artists to capture these feats of human engineering in the most artistic and engaging ways.

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Experience Singapore Nov 16, 2021

Exhibition: The Cartier Tank Experience Singapore

An easily digestible journey through the history of Cartier’s most famous rectangular watch, the Cartier Tank Experience is now open in Singapore until December 5, 2021. Taking place at Malmaison by The Hour Glass, the Cartier Tank Experience explores the history of the Tank with a timeline that rings the exhibition. Punctuatated by famous faces enraging from artist Andy Warhol to First World War hero General John Pershing, the Tank timeline touches on the bewildering variety of models over its century-long history, including the Tank Cintree and lesser known variants like the Tank Normale. And it is also a showcase of the jeweller’s current line up of Tanks, including the bestselling Tank Must with solid-colour dials and the Prive Tank Cintree (which is perhaps under-appreciated because it’s not a limited edition). The exhibition also includes a “strap bar”, basically a section where custom straps for the Tank can be ordered – and the Tank wristwatch itself personalised. Visitors can choose from alligator hide in 16 colours, and also specify the stitching, lining, and even a personalised inscription on the lining. Alongside the custom strap (and included in its cost), Cartier is also offering the option of engraving the owner’s initials on the case back of his or her Tank. The strap bar Exhibition details Open from now till December 5, 2021 Monday to Saturday 11.30 am-7.30 pm Sunday and public holidays 11.30 am-7.00 pm Visitors should register in advance for...

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils Nov 16, 2021

Breguet Unveils the Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365

Breguet is marking its invention of the tourbillon – way back in 1801, or 220 years ago – with an elegantly simple variant of its extra-thin tourbillon. The Classique Tourbillon Extra Plat Anniversaire 5365 is classically Breguet in style, with a handful of aesthetic flourishes to mark it out as an anniversary edition. And it is truly a limited edition of only 35 watches, which is also the number of tourbillon pocket watches Abraham-Louis Breguet made in his lifetime. Initial thoughts Breguet’s Tourbillon Extra Plat is already impressively executed for a slim, simple watch, especially with a skeleton movement. The cal. 581 inside is typical of modern-day Breguet movements – incorporating technology in the form of a silicon hairspring and escapement, while boasting a high level of hand finishing. Fortunately, the anniversary edition doesn’t try to do too much differently. In fact, it is almost indistinguishable from the standard version. But that simplicity is appealing because it captures the spirit of Breguet, especially in its details like the off-centre dial and spherical, gold minute markers. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its thinness. The case is so slim that its relatively wide diameter gives it disc-like proportions on the wrist, especially with its narrow, long lugs. A subtle tribute Just two small details on the dial mark it out as the anniversary edition. One is engraved just above the tourbillon aperture, the number of the patent awarded to...

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” SJX Watches
Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival Nov 15, 2021

Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”

I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Nov 15, 2021

Blancpain Introduces the Air Command Chronograph in Titanium

Resurrected two years ago with modern materials and tech, the Air Command was originally a 1950s wristwatch reputedly created for the US Air Force that was never serially produced, resulting in just a dozen examples made. With the success of the vintage-looking 2019 remake, Blancpain has followed up with the regular-production Air Command Flyback Chronograph in a modern palette, with a blue dial and a case in either titanium or red gold. Initial thoughts The Air Command reissue of 2019 was a hit. The 500-piece run sold out quickly and and now sells for slightly above the original retail price – a feat for a modern-day Blancpain. Unsurprisingly, Blancpain has stuck to the same successful formula with the new Air Command, which retains the same case and design, but manages to look quite different (and will no doubt feel different thanks to the case metal). The dial is finished with a “sunburst” brushing that gives it a metallic glint With its livelier colours, the latest version is arguably more striking than the original remake. At the same time, it avoids the pitfall of trying too hard to look vintage, as was arguably the case with the original limited edition. And the gold version makes sense as well. The Air Command is clearly a luxury-sports watch rather than a military-issue instrument, so 18k gold feels right at home with the design. For those who find titanium too dull or too affordable, the gold version is certainly the one to go for. Notably, Blancpain has...

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch Time+Tide
Rado x Nov 14, 2021

When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch

Okay, weird question: Can a high fashion house known for made-to-measure dresses, luxurious silk scarves or fine handbags produce a legitimate tool watch? What? Who would even ask something like that? What kind of weirdo are you?!! Me, that’s who. I’m your huckleberry. I’m the one who will ask “why not?” more often than “why?”.  … ContinuedThe post When high fashion collides with high function – the paradox of the haute couture tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners

Editor’s Note: When we originally ran this story, there was a flurry of male athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. Recently, however, a very notable powerhouse athlete has entered the mix. Her message: move over boys, cause this G.O.A.T rocks it just like the best of ‘em… When the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Nov 13, 2021

Revisiting The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30°

With the recent announcement that Greubel Forsey will be instituting a new program called Renaissance d’une Montre as of 2023, which will allow collectors to change anything they like about their watches, Tim Mosso finds it a good time to revisit what is perhaps the brand’s most underrated ultra haut-de-gamme option for collectors of modern watchmaking, the Double Tourbillon 30°.

The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case Deployant
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 new Nov 13, 2021

The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case

The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz Time+Tide
Grand Seiko plenty Nov 13, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz

EDITOR’S NOTE: The notion of a luxury quartz watch should never have been a contradiction in terms. Thankfully, a growing number of high-end brands have rediscovered its appeal. From Cartier to F.P Journe and Hublot to Grand Seiko, plenty of well-respected maisons are once again investing back into quartz. All of which makes sense given … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I learned to stop worrying and appreciate the brilliance of quartz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived Nov 12, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams

We all have a watch brand that we love. A brand that brings something to the table we can’t ignore. Whether it be their finishing or their language of design, we’re captivated by what they’re able to create. For me, that brand has always been Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve marvelled at their movements and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Nov 11, 2021

Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...

EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” – the psychology of why we collect watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet F.P Journe Nov 11, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” – the psychology of why we collect watches

EDITOR’S PICK: Last week, the Only Watch 2021 auction racked up the phenomenal result of $32.1 million USD. Admittedly, there’s a charitable motive behind the initiative, but even so, the vast sums of money splurged there on watches by Audemars Piguet, F.P. Journe and alike, suggest that watch collecting is still in a very healthy place. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Knowledge, kinship & “celebrity vampirism” – the psychology of why we collect watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive Nov 10, 2021

The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue

I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Nov 10, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...

Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos Revolution
Cartier Santos It’s no secret Nov 10, 2021

Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos

It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.