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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 29, 2024

Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01

About 15 years ago I came across a brand out of the Netherlands called d.m.h. which was, in reality, a single person by the name of Fred Dingemans, working out of a shed in his backyard. His creations were raw and slightly impractical, but they were also a pure expression of creativity, and unwaveringly original. These watches were captivating at a glance, showcasing a similar level of creative fidelity to what we were seeing from the likes of Urwerk and MB&F; at the time. This is a quality sorely taken for granted these days, with most of the newcomers wisely choosing to play it safe with practical, conventionally attractive creations that can go anywhere, and do anything.  I have a well-documented love of practical tool watches that can go anywhere and do anything, but I often lament the homogeneous nature of watch design that this trend has brought us to. Truly novel expressions are a rare sight these days, but there has been exactly one to cross my radar over the past year that has brought a similar feeling to seeing a d.m.h. watch all those years ago, and that is the kollokium projekt 01.  My first glimpse of kollokium came when I spotted one on the wrist of one of the co-founders while attending the Dubai Watch Week events of 2023. This individual, uncoincidentally, is also responsible for the avant-garde creations coming out of Louis Errard these days. His name is Manuel Emch, and he is one of three men (the others being Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) behind koll...

Flying First Class - Hands-On With The Breguet Type XX In Rose Gold Fratello
Breguet Type XX Oct 29, 2024

Flying First Class - Hands-On With The Breguet Type XX In Rose Gold

We published a written hands-on review on this rose gold Breguet Type XX a while ago, but we also created a video recap of the review. Click the thumbnail above to start the video. Breguet Type XX in rose gold Breguet’s current Type XX and Type 20 models debuted in Paris in 2023 and created […] Visit Flying First Class - Hands-On With The Breguet Type XX In Rose Gold to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Fratello
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Inverts Oct 29, 2024

Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar

One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse. Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display. Initial thoughts Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial. Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication. Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Inverse German wa...

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 28, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review

There are some watches that kind of stay with you. They may not be in your wheelhouse as far as taste is concerned (or at least what you think your taste is), but something about them just resonates. This is how I feel, and have felt, about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow, a watch that has been in production for some time, one that I have reviewed in the past, and one that I still do not own but which continues to take up valuable real estate in my brain.  The version of the watch that I got turned onto was the only one available until recently - a blasted-finish, black-coated titanium chronograph in the retro A384 case format that plays on the past but brings a decidedly modern design sensibility to the overall package. The dial is a matte, flat black and the text on it is well thought-out in terms of the vintage effect, down to the printing of the logos and numerals. It’s as if you’re looking at a museum artifact, except that it's packed with one of the best modern automatic chronograph movements in the game, Zenith's own El Primero, and at 37mm it fits perfectly on my 6.25-inch wrist. If you have been paying attention to Zenith over the past half-decade or so, you are sure to notice that the brand has done quite a job in balancing vintage revivals with innovative new releases. It’s the only brand I know that revives a watch and keeps everything true to form down to the clasp on a bracelet. I recall handling another Shadow model – the Defy Shadow ...

Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches Fratello
Breitling Expands Oct 28, 2024

Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches

Breitling just unveiled a bunch of new Avenger models. With a handful of new black ceramic Night Mission editions alongside new 46mm titanium and 42mm stainless steel Avenger chronographs, there is plenty to talk about. The Night Mission versions that stand out immediately are the 42mm chronographs with Sand and Turquoise colorways. And what do […] Visit Breitling Expands Its Avenger Collection With Five Black Ceramic Night Mission Watches to read the full article.

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume Worn & Wound
Laco Limes Stowa Oct 28, 2024

Heinrich Introduces New Watches Featuring Carbon Dials with Integrated Lume

Germany is the home of many prominent timepiece manufacturers. The most notable city known for watchmaking is Glashütte; however, another city, Pforzheim,, located roughly 560 kilometers away, has its own proud watchmaking history. Brands calling Pforzheim home include Circula, Laco, Limes, Stowa, and others, along with the famous case maker Ickler, whose work supplies numerous watch brands worldwide. Heinrich is a watch brand located in Stuttgart, less than an hour from Pforzheim. This proximity allows brand founder Wolfgang Heinrich to collaborate with skilled watchmakers to develop new sport and dive watches that take inspiration from the 1970s while incorporating a unique twist. Twist barely describes their latest creation, the Taucher Infused Forged Carbon V2. If that sounds like a mouthful, it is, but it is also an eyeful. These watches feature dials and bezel inserts made from colored forged carbon combined with SuperLuminova BGW9. We are not only referring to the indices, minute track, and bezel markings being lumed; instead, we mean that the dial and bezel material itself is integrated with lume. The fusion of materials in each watch is unique, ensuring no two are alike.  The 41mm stainless steel case measures 13.6mm to the top of the boxed sapphire crystal, and due to the very short lugs, it has a compact length of 47.8mm from lug tip to lug tip. This watch should fit nearly everyone comfortably. Although it has a 1970s throwback style, this case is 200 meters ...

First Look – The Awake Son Mài Collection, a New Direction for the Brand with its First Permanent Range Monochrome
Oct 28, 2024

First Look – The Awake Son Mài Collection, a New Direction for the Brand with its First Permanent Range

Coming up for its fifth anniversary, French indie brand Awake releases Son Mài, its first permanent collection comprised of four time-only references illustrating the art of ancestral Vietnamese sanded lacquer paired with the application of pure silver leaf gilding. Marking a new direction for the brand, the former titanium cases and Miyota movements have been […]

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Pair Oct 28, 2024

A Breguet Classique Pair in Black Grand Feu Enamel

Employing traditional Breguet style but with a twist, the Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 are variants of existing models but gain a high-contrast makeover with a black grand feu enamel dial and platinum case – a uncommon and striking combination for a largely conservative brand. Initial thoughts Though white enamel is the default, Breguet has been adding colours to its enamel offerings in recent years, including blue enamel for the Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367. In fact, the Classique 5177 was already available with a blue enamel dial for several years. However, the 5177 and 7787 are amongst the most striking thanks to their stark palette. While neither are actually new models, both are good looking watches that exemplify the Breguet style while being a little different. All the stylistic elements are traditional Breguet, but the monochromatic colours give the duo a stark, modern feel. The 5177 is almost a perfect dress watch, but it has a date at three that gets in the way. That said, the date is less prominent on the black dial than it is on the white version. More appealing (and also more expensive), the 7787 brings to mind vintage Breguet pocket watches with its oversized power reserve display, while the moon phase adds texture and colour to the dial. Black and silver Both the 5177 and 7787 share the same livery of a black enamel dial and platinum case. Platinum is relatively uncommon in the Breguet catalogue, and here it’s used for both the case and crown....

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss, take you inside Windup Watch Fair New York City 2024. The biggest and best Windup yet, there were over 140 brands in attendance and tens of thousands of guests. Unfortunately, we couldn’t cover everything we saw there, so we focused on talking to six brands new to Windup. This episode was sponsored by Trafford Watch Co and their new Touring GMT. The latest from the Austin-based watchmakers is inspired by the relentless spirit of musicians and their fans. The Touring GMT has independent hour and GMT hands so you can seamlessly track the time in your next venue and back at home. Available in three colorways inspired by American music venues, check out the Touring GMT at Trafford Watch Co The post A Week in Watches Ep. 92: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage Fratello
Moritz Grossmann Oct 27, 2024

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage

Admittedly, I’ve never covered a watch from Moritz Grossmann. A couple of weeks ago, though, I received an email that caught my attention. The new Benu 37 Arabic Vintage may look simple, but there’s plenty to uncover. The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann established an atelier in Glashütte and began […] Visit It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage to read the full article.

Review: One Month With The White-Dial Hamilton Murph 38 Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Oct 25, 2024

Review: One Month With The White-Dial Hamilton Murph 38

The Hamilton Murph is a watch with which I am very familiar, and a model that I have spent quite a bit of time with. In fact, I even wrote a story on this very site about my exploits for nearly two years with my personal Hamilton Khaki Murph 38. But this year, Hamilton went and surprised us all by delivering a watch nobody saw coming: The Murph 38 with a white dial. What makes this watch controversial? Well, everything - and I don't mean that pejoratively. The thing is, the OG Murph was, truly, a film prop – a movie watch that didn't actually exist within the brand's collection. It wasn’t until the fans demanded Hamilton make it real that that the watch was made manifest at its true 42mm size. And then, a couple years later, Hamilton heard the cries for a 38mm version and delivered. So you could say that the Murph has always been a watch in response to demand, first by director Christopher Nolan for the film Interstellar, and then by us, the watch nerds. The black dials, in either size were true to the movie Murph. It’s this new white dial that deviates... considerably. As a fan of the watch and the movie, I had to get the white Murph, and so I did. So this is an owner’s review from an owner who's had just over one month with the thing. My first sort of high-level observation is the idea that the Murph 38 White takes the collection into a new place. It was launched alongside another version with a black dial on bracelet, and both releases signify a shift...

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Worn & Wound
Lorier Oct 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph

No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 25, 2024

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch

Pop culture icons are increasingly in vogue and luxury watch brands have been surfing the wave of comic or cartoon-themed timepieces. Raymond Weil is the latest brand to join this trend with a limited edition inspired by Largo Winch, the gentleman-adventurer created by Belgian cartoonist Philippe Francq. Yet instead of featuring the iconic character on a dial […]

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years Worn & Wound
Seiko Dive Watches Oct 24, 2024

The Strangest Seiko Dive Watches in Years

There was a time not too long ago when the new watches that Seiko debuted this week would have broken the internet. The new SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485 are, plain and simple, some of the strangest releases we’ve seen from Seiko in quite some time. It used to be that even a middling release from the brand, particularly if it was in the sports watch category, would generate days worth of discussion and hype on Instagram, forums, and group chats where watches are discussed. But it’s been about three days since these were made public and not only are they not dominating the enthusiast conversation, they’ve been met with what I can only describe as a collective shrug.  You can see in these images why these watches are noteworthy. What we have here are a trio of Seiko divers in the Prospex collection with octagonal bezels in what appears to be an entirely new case design and a radical new bezel profile. The rounded octagonal bezel is matched to a 41.3mm case that comes in at 12.8mm tall and has lines that accentuate flowing curves at every angle. It feels very different for Seiko and kind of makes you see their core designs in a new way, most of which feature much harsher angles and severe geometry that these watches completely lack.  Three variants make up the new range. The SPB481 has a beige dial matched to a glossy black bezel insert, the SPB483 is a blue on blue design, and then there’s the SPB485, which to my eye is the most striking of the group, featuring a brown...

The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design Fratello
Seiko SKX173 Oct 24, 2024

The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design

Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch is a modern classic. Today, we’re looking at a different and, I’ll argue, better-looking version. The watch is known as the Seiko SKX173. Read on. Recently, I wrote about Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch. This was not a review, per se, but an assessment of the SKX007’s role in 2024. The article […] Visit The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Quill & Pad
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Oct 24, 2024

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M

After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches Fratello
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches

It’s hard to believe that 30 years have passed since the first Lange 1 was introduced. Yet, here we are, and to celebrate this special occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has crafted four new limited-edition versions of the brand’s most famous watch. As we’ll see, Lange is bringing a pair of dial and case materials […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication Worn & Wound
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication

You might be familiar with the work of Justin Walters through his work with Marin Instruments, which burst onto the microbrand watch scene back in 2021 with a unique, contemporary spin on the classic skin diver. Justin has just launched a new brand, the Alterum Watch Company, which he’s been teasing to those of us in the industry for nearly as long. It’s great to see the watch finally made public, and to see Justin fully emerge as one of the most interesting watch design minds working today. Between this initial release for Alterum and the ongoing work with Marin, we’re seeing a clear, modern aesthetic evolve right before our eyes. Best of all, these watches are accessible to just about anyone, proving once again that you don’t need to spend a small fortune for thoughtful and interesting design.  The working principle behind the Alterum Worldtimer is one of simplicity, or “cutting away the chaos,” as Justin puts it. We’ve heard and seen this before, of course. Many brands attempt to reach a minimal design, but it’s hard to think of one that starts with a worldtimer, a genre of watch that’s busy almost by definition. But it’s a good test, when you think about it. If the goal of Alterum as a brand is simplicity and clarity, finding success with a worldtimer would seem to bode quite well for future projects. In many ways the Alterum Worldtimer feels familiar, at least in its functionality, but when you really start digging into the details you come to und...

First Look – Accessible & Handsome, The New Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Salmon Dial Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Salmon Dial Oct 23, 2024

First Look – Accessible & Handsome, The New Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Salmon Dial

Sometimes, it doesn’t take much to do a great watch. It doesn’t necessarily take great complications, high-end materials, overly-engineered movements or complex shapes. A classic and elegant watch doesn’t need all of that. What it needs is a far more subtle recipe, which requires well-curated ingredients. Take this new, Europe-only edition of the Frederique Constant […]

Introducing the Ming 37.02 Minimalist with new “Polar White” Lume Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 23, 2024

Introducing the Ming 37.02 Minimalist with new “Polar White” Lume

My Geneva Watch Days meeting with Ming Thein was easily one of my favorites of that whirlwind week. It was one of those hours where you’re presented with watch, after watch, after watch, and you kind of can’t help but get lost in all of the cool stuff you’re seeing. Ming was incredibly kind to pull out watches that have been out (and sold out) for years, just so I could get a look at random pieces here and there from throughout the brand’s history that I may have missed. Seeing the full scope of the brand, though, is important in understanding the newest piece, one that I saw under embargo in that meeting, that Ming is incredibly proud of. The 37.02 Minimalist is not the flashiest or most expensive Ming, but it feels like a watch that sees the brand entering a new and exciting phase.  According to the brand, the 37.02 is the first watch in the Ming catalog to be designed, engineered, and managed by Horologer Ming SA, the brand’s new Swiss entity. Horologer Ming SA was created in an effort to streamline and internalize Ming’s complex engineering and production processes while maintaining as much control as possible over the supply chain. This, ultimately, is what the brand hopes will lead to the shorter lead times that their collectors (and would-be collectors) have been asking for for years.  That’s exemplified nicely in the 37.02, a watch that leans on core Ming design characteristics that have been developed since the brand’s founding, while also pushin...

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold Monochrome
Union Glashütte Oct 23, 2024

Introducing – The Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Moon Phase in Rose Gold

In 1893, Johannes Dürrstein, a distributor for A. Lange & Söhne, founded his own watchmaking business, which eventually evolved into what we now know as Union Glashütte. Today, the Swatch Group-owned brand is famous for keeping the traditions and aesthetics of Saxon watchmaking, offering a range of competitively priced models across seven collections. The 1893 […]

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date Oct 23, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial

If you ask someone to draw or describe the perfect dress watch, I’m sure it would look a lot like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin. Its classic case with elegantly sweeping lugs looks good on anyone’s wrist, and the dial is one of the cleanest and most legible in the industry. In short, it’s truly […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date With A Modern Blue-Gray Dial to read the full article.