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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals Apr 29, 2024

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders

Earlier this month at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new chronographs, expanding its 1887 line-up, first developed in 2019. The Swiss brand unveiled both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique. These timepieces represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the brand’s founding date and its rich heritage that has made it a staple on the Swiss market for over 130 years. According to the Maison, the development process of these chronographs was meticulous, involving extensive research and study of original Eberhard & Co. chronographs dating back to the 1930s. Preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these timepieces served as the primary source of inspiration for the design and technical aspects of the new releases. Both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique are powered by exclusive calibers developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT. The movements (EB 280 and EB 380, respectively) feature a column wheel and the fly-back complication, a nod to the precision timing required in aviation during the 1930s. The EB 280 in the Limitée is manually wound, while the EB 380 in the Automatique is, as the name of the watch implies, self-winding. The primary aesthetic difference between the two references is the use of baton style hour markers on the Limtée and Breguet numerals on the Automatique. Each is available with white or black dials...

Introducing – The New 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition for Phillips by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Monochrome
Massena Lab Apr 29, 2024

Introducing – The New 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition for Phillips by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès

Not only are the watches crafted in collaboration with William Massena and his Massena LAB well executed and exciting, but they also serve as invaluable educational tools. They ignite a curiosity to delve deeper into horological history, exploring the lives of notable figures, the evolution of brands, distinctive styles, and the captivating mechanics behind them. […]

Fabled “Lost” Cartier ‘Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Rediscovered SJX Watches
Cartier Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Apr 29, 2024

Fabled “Lost” Cartier ‘Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Rediscovered

Although Cartier watches are now enjoying a streak of popularity, thanks in part to social media, the jeweller’s greatest timekeepers are arguably not wristwatches but clocks, namely the lavish and inventive clocks made in the first half of the 20th century that rank amongst the most impressive clocks ever made. Not only were most carefully designed and ornately decorated, many feature unique, “mysterious” time display mechanisms. A quartet of such clocks long hidden in a discreet collection, has just emerged at Phillips and will soon go under the hammer. All four are Chinese-themed Art Deco creations typical of Cartier’s work of the period, and include an example of the famous mystery clock, specially a single-axle version inlaid with turquoise. But the highlight is a long-lost pendule de table magnétique, or magnet clock, sometimes also known as a turtle- or water clock. The most elaborate water clock ever made by Cartier, this example is a large jade bowl containing a carp floating on water that serves as the hour hand. Made in 1929 by Cartier Paris and sold by its New York branch, this water clock was lost for decades and known only from drawings in Cartier’s archives. It finally reemerged at Christie’s in 1990, where it was sold to the current owner. The clock then remained inaccessible in the owner’s collection, although it was mentioned in several Cartier books, including the well-known tomes by Francois Chaille and Franco Cologni, and Hans Nadelhoffe...

IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie Apr 29, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie

IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new dial variations for its releases. This time, the Stockhlom-based brand delves into the Disney archives and celebrates the joyous spirit of Mickey Mouse. To be more exact, the brand celebrates the Disney classic Steamboat Willie coming into the public domain. This animated short film is known as […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Limited Edition Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Free Willie to read the full article.

Inside Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2024 Booth With Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier Revolution
Cartier s Watches & Wonders Apr 29, 2024

Inside Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2024 Booth With Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier

As we wander through the captivating displays at Watches & Wonders 2024, CEO Cyrille Vigneron shares insights into the core values that have propelled Cartier to its prominent position in the watch industry. His commitment to excellence, innovation, and timeless elegance resonates in every exquisite timepiece showcased at the event. With a keen eye for […]

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! Time+Tide
Nomos has Apr 28, 2024

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!

Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector Fratello
Breitling Collector I have talked Apr 28, 2024

A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector

I have talked about hidden gems from the 1990s in several articles over the past year. Based on that coverage, I received a message from a Dutch watch collector who focuses on Breitling watches from the 1990s. Curious about his Breitling collection and motivation, we invited him to the Fratello office to listen to his […] Visit A Conversation With A Neo-Vintage Breitling Collector to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs Apr 28, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. After two battles featuring Rolex and Tudor, it’s time to move on to something else. This week, we put two classic dress watches up against each other. Both came out at Watches and Wonders, and both impressed journalists and watch fans alike. Robert-Jan’s pick […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Finding the Lost Tapes, Living with the Apple Vision Pro, and a First-of-its-Kind Dial From Sarpaneva Worn & Wound
Sarpaneva Apr 27, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Finding the Lost Tapes, Living with the Apple Vision Pro, and a First-of-its-Kind Dial From Sarpaneva

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The SpaceOne Tellurium, Explained One of the watches we were most looking forward to seeing in Geneva earlier this month was the sophomore release from SpaceOne, Guillaume Laidet’s brand focusing on making traditionally high end horological concepts accessible to everyone. Last year’s Jump Hour was a favorite, and the teases we had seen of the new Tellurium seemed to indicate a significant jump in complexity and refining of the overarching concept. We were not disappointed.  In this video, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss talk to Guillaume himself about the Tellurium, and he walks us through its unusual complication and what makes this watch special. Seeing this watch in action was a true highlight of Geneva Watch Week, and a great reminder that in addition to the glitz and flash seen at Palexpo, there are independent brands doing incredibly creative stuff at price points that are plenty approachable.  The Chore Coat Gains Traction at…Restaurants?  We love a chore coat at Worn & Wound. If you come to a Windup Watch Fair event (like the one happening in San Francisco in less than a wee...

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Fratello
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

I have a special spot in my heart for Rado. It’s the only watch brand I’ve ever heard my mother talk about. She was a big fan of the black ceramic Diastar watches that Rado put out in the 1980s and ’90s. While that was a defining era for the brand, that’s not where it […] Visit Hands-On With The New Olive-Green Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement Fratello
Farer style sunglasses Apr 26, 2024

Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement

Imagine driving your mint-green Ford Mustang convertible from the ’60s along the Californian coast during the golden hour. You’re wearing your favorite pair of Wayfarer-style sunglasses, and the wind is gently blowing through your hair. On your wrist is the brand-new mint-green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure with a vintage Valjoux 92 movement inside. […] Visit Introducing: The Mint-Green Depancel × Worn & Wound Allure Powered By A Vintage Valjoux 92 Movement to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More… Fratello
Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring Apr 26, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More…

Another Friday, another Top 5! After a little break last week, we are back with our articles highlighting outstanding pre-owned watches. One of the most talked-about watches during Watches and Wonders inspired this week’s list. Is the new full-gold Rolex Deepsea truly an unnecessary statement of opulence? Many people questioned whether the existence of a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Full-Gold Rolex Sports Watches - Featuring The GMT-Master, Submariner, And More… to read the full article.

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 26, 2024

Explained: Bovet Solves Daylight Savings Time in the Wristwatch

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch. Despite the seemingly simple nature of the problem, the solution is extraordinarily complicated, requiring two dozen rollers and many more gears and springs. With its roller-based world time mechanism, the Récital 28 can easily switch between showing summer or winter in both Europe and America, making the first-ever wristwatch able to do that. Initial thoughts Bovet’s complicated watches are usually enormous, intricately mechanical, and sometimes extravagantly decorated, sometimes sporting pearls, diamonds, and enamel work. The Récital 28 is less decorative but intensely mechanical. With clever engineering, the calibre inside addresses one of the longstanding challenges of a travel-time watch, accounting for daylight saving time (DST). The cleverness of the Récital 28 lies in its rollers, which each have four positions. This allows time zones to be easily backwards or forwards in accordance with DST. Even though the solution is straightforward in principle, executing it is immensely complex. In order to accommodate its many functions, the R28-70-00X movement incorporates multiple subassemblies that make it a unique proposition. As a result, the movement in the Récital 28 is unusually complicated, especially for what is essentially a world time watch. Its part-count of 744 puts it in grand comp...

Omega hosts star-studded Speedmaster 38mm launch in Milan filled with diamonds and stylish watch-wielding celebrities Time+Tide
Omega hosts star-studded Speedmaster 38mm Apr 26, 2024

Omega hosts star-studded Speedmaster 38mm launch in Milan filled with diamonds and stylish watch-wielding celebrities

Earlier this week, Omega, as Omega is known to do, hosted a star-studded affair in Milan to launch their new Speedmaster 38mm collection.The post Omega hosts star-studded Speedmaster 38mm launch in Milan filled with diamonds and stylish watch-wielding celebrities appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique Fratello
Tissot Antimagnetique Welcome back Apr 26, 2024

Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique

Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we’re coming back late due to our busy schedules. We’ve decided to cut this recording in half and will come back on our regularly scheduled day next week. For this episode, we talk about the new Amida Digitrend and a vintage Tissot Antimagnetique. Sorry, folks; we’re late […] Visit Fratello On Air: Catching Up With The New Amida Digitrend And A Tissot Antimagnetique to read the full article.

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Seiko GMT Watch Buyer's Guide

More than just about any other watchmaker, Japan's Seiko has become known for offering not only multiple styles and complications in its product families, but also several different types of movements - from affordable quartz, to proprietary hybrid Spring Drive, to high-tech solar and radio-controlled, to classically traditional mechanical. However, one Holy Grail combo that has eluded Seiko and its fans until very recently is the rare GMT (aka dual-time) watch powered by a mechanical movement and priced at what most would consider entry-level for a budding collector. Fortunately, the past few years of R&D; have yielded several all-new GMT-equipped, self-winding mechanical movements for the Japanese megabrand, which have found their way into several models in its modern collections. Here’s a guide to familiarize yourself with all the Seiko mechanical GMTs on the market now - and yes, all of them offer the enticing value proposition that has made Seiko a darling of enthusiasts at every level of economic means. SEIKO 5 SPORTS The Seiko 5 Sports series traces its roots all the way back to 1963 and the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define Seiko’s entry-level mechanical collection today. These include automatic movements, date or day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the w...

Louis Erard Collaborates with Jeweler and Watchmaker Cédric Johner for their Latest Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Collaborates Apr 25, 2024

Louis Erard Collaborates with Jeweler and Watchmaker Cédric Johner for their Latest Limited Edition

Louis Erard continues with their aggressive limited edition release strategy this week with a new collaboration that sees the brand partnering with celebrated watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. Johner began his career as a jeweler at the age of 15 in 1982, and turned to watchmaking later in life. He continues to work out of his Geneva workshop to this day, with a focus on traditional craft, including good old fashioned handwork with traditional tools. He practices what he calls “intuitive watchmaking,” which for him means creating a timepiece without a set plan. This obviously flies in the face of how most modern watches are created, but allows Johner a level of freedom and creativity in his design that would be hard to match otherwise. His work, which consists largely of one-offs and unique pieces, is often characterized by playing with expectations related to geometry and shape, which comes through clearly in this pair of limited edition regulators for Louis Erard.  The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner limited editions consist of two watches in Louis Erard’s less frequently used 39mm Excellence case. The visual impression of these watches is immediately very different from any other Louis Erard collaboration thanks to the hexagonal bezel, which is a Johner hallmark. The dial arrangement, though, will be familiar to anyone who has been tracking these regulators over the years, with running seconds at 6:00, hours at 12:00, and a centrally mounted minu...

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Independent watchmaker Apr 25, 2024

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur

Independent watchmaker Cédric Johner has joined forces with Louis Erard in a collaborative effort that has given birth to the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner. This regulator-style watch pays homage to Mr Johner’s signature Abyss case with its distinctive, hexagonal dial opening. And unlike other collaboration editions that were mostly design exercises, Mr Johner himself worked on each of these watches by decorating every rotor with his signature bead motif. Initial thoughts  In contrast to the whimsical and striking Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein collaborations, the latest Le Régulateur has a more classical design but still manages to be different with its octagonal dial and crystal. Even though it is a round watch case, it doesn’t really seem so as a result of the crystal. And it is a homage to Mr Johner’s work in more ways than just aesthetics, as Mr Johner himself offered an Abyss regulator model back in the day. Interestingly, the restyled case arguably works better with the relatively chunky proportions of the Le Régulateur case, the dimensions of which also evokes the original Abyss that was also a solidly built shape. Reasonably priced at CHF4,000 (on par with last year’s Chaykin Time-Eater), this will appeal to collectors seeking more classical look while still having a little of the unique character of an independent watchmaker. Cédric Johner A more traditional-styled regulator A once successful watchmaker who then lost his brand...

Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s Apr 25, 2024

Hands-On: MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 in Blue CarbonMacrolon

MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko s will be found Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition

Seiko has possibly the widest range of entirely in-house-manufactured watches in today’s market. Everything from Spartan Seiko 5 watches to highly complicated Grand Seikos will be found. Since 1974, the company has even had a Haute Horlogerie branch in the form of Credor. And for those who are quick at arithmetic, that is precisely 50 […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Eichi II 50th Anniversary Special Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2024

Introducing – Credor Celebrates its 50th Anniversary with the Blue/Gold Eichi II GBLT996

While Grand Seiko is often regarded as the top-tier brand within the Seiko Group, there’s yet another hidden gem that’s not as easily available, not understandable, but equals (and sometimes surpasses) GS regarding complexity and attention to detail; Credor. Born in 1974, Credor gained international fame in the 2000s with the creation of highly complex […]