Deployant
Space Race: Five Interesting Iterations of the Omega Speedmaster (and The Original) Over the Years
With the recent news on the space race, we take a look at a watch collection that is synoymous with space: Omega Speedmaster.
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Deployant
With the recent news on the space race, we take a look at a watch collection that is synoymous with space: Omega Speedmaster.
Time+Tide
With the barrage of vintage reissue divers on the market, it can be a relief to see a watch that isn’t afraid to play it bold. The Tissot Seastar 200 Professional is exactly that - a bold 600m dive watch without any pretension that’s fantastic value for money. The dial Neither the wave dial nor … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 combines great value with hardcore performance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sports fans, ahoy! The Olympic Games have just started, making it a perfect time to look back on a few Olympic-sized sports-and-watch stories. The Olympic Games are always a fun focus time for watch sponsorships, and Elizabeth Doerr loves to keep an eye on what athletes might potentially be wearing. Here are some from past games.
Time+Tide
Longines is one of the more successful and storied Swiss watch manufacturers over its lengthy history, which dates all the way back to 1832. But when most of us think of vintage Longines, we think of beautifully proportioned dress watches from the 1950s and their critical contribution to pilots watches from the early ’30s. In … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that tell the history of Longines dive watches in the ’60s and ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Matt. I hear you. You made your case. But I would never, ever, remove the bracelet from my Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 – or any Rolex for that matter. I cry blasphemy here not because a rubber strap looks particularly bad on the watch, in fact I concede it looks fine and is probably very … ContinuedThe post Sorry Matt, but I would never put my Rolex Submariner on a rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Nearly everything about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been surprising. “Game changer” is a phrase overused to a point of redundancy, but that’s what this watch has done for Zenith. From the day it dropped, it has raised eyebrows of watch lovers and shattered ceilings for the manufacture, who produces a staggering 50 times less … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 surprising things we learned about the Zenith Chronomaster Sport, including why there’s a wait list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Longines is well known for producing important pilot’s watches in the 1930s and gorgeous dress watches in the ’50s. But one area that’s sometimes overlooked, is Longines’ impressive track record with dive watches. From as early as 1937, Longines was making strides in the race to make a functional and truly water-resistant watch when they … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A short history of Longines dive watches in the glorious ’60s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One watch artfully links Swiss manufacturer Urwerk to NASA's Space Shuttle and the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum in New York.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...
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Deployant
Breguet introduces the most contemporary Type XXI pilot watch yet: the Type XXI 3815 in titanium, available with either orange or green lume.
Quill & Pad
The new Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon and Star Legacy Metamorphosis are both watches that might convince anyone that Montblanc makes only high-end mega creations. They are standout pieces from a brand normally known for more accessible luxury in the watch world. But these timepieces are incredible examples of high horology and worth further inspection.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t get hoodwinked by the marketing spin of the vintage watch world. That’s the advice of Dan Kaufman, a veteran Australian journalist who got in touch with this thought-provoking column. If you’ve got a watch-related subject you’d like to get off your chest, drop us a line at: info@timeandtimewatches.com. Let’s start by stating … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their DolceVita Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to … ContinuedThe post There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.
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Hodinkee
He also learns English at an alarmingly fast rate in our watch-related movie of the week.
Time+Tide
The movement is obviously a huge aspect of any timepiece and something you should look into at length. It is, after all, the heart of a watch and what makes it, quite literally, tick. But I think, if we are all being honest about what draws us to a particular watch, the external looks that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...
Revolution
Tissot introduces a high-performance dive watch aimed to meet the needs of the professional saturation diver with an impressive array of technical features.
Time+Tide
Can you fly a plane? Nope, me neither. So why the hell are pilot’s watches so enduringly popular? More specifically how has the IWC Big Pilot retained such a relentless grip on the watch-buying psyche? The origin story of the IWC Big Pilot began in 1940 when the brand produced 1000 military navigators’ watches. These … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The history of the IWC Big Pilot and how it became a stone-cold classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The Watches TV goes deep into explaining a resonance movement in an easy way. The quick answer to the question of what resonance is in horological terms is that it encompasses two independent escapements in one watch that influence each other to average out timing errors. This video brings horological resonance to life and makes it easy to understand.
SJX Watches
Announced by Seiko almost a year ago, the Custom Watch Beatmaker was an online contest to design the brand’s next sports watch. Seiko just unveiled the winner – which has been brought to life as a limited edition – the Seiko 5 Sports Custom Watch Beatmaker 2021. A surprisingly clean design, the winner has a gold dial circled by a “Pepsi” bezel. It was one of about 50,000 submissions, but it won by a surprisingly large margin of 8.5 million votes out of a 16 million-vote total – possibly due to a group effort by a forum dedicated to Seiko. Initial thoughts The Custom Watch Beatmaker contest was in many ways an official acknowledgment of the Seiko “mods” community that pursue aftermarket customisation of Seiko watches. It’s uncommon for a big brand to do so, though the contest was centred on the Seiko 5 Sports, the brand’s entry-level mechanical watch. But Seiko itself has changed the landscape since the contest was announced in October 2020. The brand has since launched numerous Seiko 5 Sports “crossover” editions featuring Japanese pop-culture themes, resulting in watches far from the average Seiko 5. In comparison, the contest edition seems less special, at least from an aesthetic perspective, since it’s basically rearranged the colours of a few elements instead of being an all-new design. Still, compared to the regular-production Seiko 5 Sports, the Beatmaker edition stands out. The gold, sunburst dial on a dive-style watch is uncommon, not to...
Revolution
Lange unveils the seventh Handwerkskunst watch, the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, along with new executions of the Langematik Perpetual & Saxonia Thin
SJX Watches
Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...
SJX Watches
Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...
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