34,301 articles · 155 videos found · page 64 of 1149
Deployant
We organized a special collector event for Piaget recently and got intimate with the Polo 79 Sodalite . Here is our hands-on review of this amazing watch.
Hodinkee
New watch season is right around the corner, and our friends at Time & Tide are among the first to move, thanks to not one but seven new watches arriving in September. The watches coincide with the launch of the brand's own watch fair, FounderFest, a show built around independent watchmaking and live music in equal measure. Rather than one exclusive location, FounderFest spans Time & Tide's three Watch Discovery Studios: New York (460 Broome St), Melbourne (178 Collins St), and London (Portland House, 4 Great Portland Street), running 19–20 September, with New York serving as the event's HQ, hosting founders, live interviews, and musical performances. I recently had the chance to see—and photograph—every new piece coming next month. The watches go up for sale globally on 22 September via thefounderfest.com, which will also host the festival online for anyone not on the ground in one of the three cities. Let's jump right in! AWAKE — Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf 'Ultraviolet' Awake may only be seven years old, but in that short time, word has spread quickly on the Sơn Mài and its lacquer dials. For those unfamiliar, these dials are built from layers of natural lacquer applied by hand to the dial surface, then carefully sanded back, worked, and reapplied, a process repeated until the desired depth, texture, and visual effect are met. For the 'Ultraviolet' edition, they've added pure silver-leaf gilding and natural purple and black pigments, resulting in pieces of silver s...
Monochrome
Over the past decade, Time+Tide has evolved from an Australian online watch publication into one of the influential platforms dedicated to watchmaking, and independent watchmaking in particular. Alongside its editorial content, the company has expanded into retail with its Watch Discovery Studios in Melbourne, London and New York. This year, the company is launching FounderFest, […]
Worn & Wound
By now, you’re probably well aware of the incredibly enriching experience I had with Citizen Watch Company at their manufacturing facilities getting a peek behind the curtain at the genius that is the brand’s proprietary Eco-Drive technology. However, as I teased on a podcast episode, the warmth and transparency of every member of Citizen’s team was not the only thing that made this press trip so unique and special. Flying us quite literally halfway around the world, Citizen created an incredibly generous itinerary that left space for cultural experiences and personal exploration. The trip both kicked off and concluded in Tokyo, and here, there are three activities not to be missed. We were fortunate that Citizen planned the trip during one of the most beautiful and remarkable times of the year in Japan – cherry blossom season. It was essential to have a proper viewing experience of the breathtaking trees before the blooms fell for the season, which is only a short window. This is what makes the cherry blossoms so special – their impermanence and their beauty serve as a reminder to cherish the good moments while they last. With this relationship to time, it’s no wonder the color and delicate texture of the blossoms have long been a muse for Japanese watchmakers. I took in this experience at the Shinjuku Gyoen Garden, which is just a short 30-minute train ride from Tokyo’s city center and mere steps from the platform of the Shinjuku Station. Let me pause here ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Stone dials are everywhere right now, and whenever the watch industry collectively decides that a material is having its moment, things can get repetitive pretty quickly. Still, Brew’s new Retrograph Stone Blend Automatic caught our eye because there’s a nice, coherent idea behind the dial.
Deployant
IWC releases a new Big Pilot's Watch to celebrate Mercedes-Benz's 140 years of innovation. This novelty features a Perpetual calendar with Proset.
Monochrome
Two companies, at the forefront of mechanical innovation, coming together to mark 140 years of history – that’s what IWC’s latest watch is all about. The brand has a long-standing partnership with Mercedes-Benz, exemplified through not only the Mercedes-Benz AMG PETRONAS Formula 1 Team special editions, but also through the various road-car-themed watches. The new […]
Fratello
Although it’s the heart of the summer break, Seiko is definitely not taking any time off. We have been enjoying a steady stream of releases from the Japanese brand. At Fratello, we are in the lucky position to see some of the new releases up front. The last time we were given a preview of […] Visit Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Skin diver watches are more everyday style dive watches that are intended for hobbyists, here we go through 7 of our favorites.
Worn & Wound
Fears made some news this week not only with a new release, but also the announcement that one of their signature watches is being retired. The new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’ is, somewhat surprisingly, the last version of the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour. Now, it stands to reason that Fears will not completely abandon the Jump Hour format. This platform has been incredibly popular for the brand, and seems to be a fount of creative opportunity for their design team and collaborators. Still, the appropriately named Ultimus is the end of a chapter, and it seems like a good opportunity to reflect on a watch that I’ve personally come to enjoy quite a bit in my own collection. But first, let’s break down the Ultimus. This is a collaboration with Andew Morgan, the UK based watch content creator, and features the same 40.5mm stainless steel case and Christopher Ward JJ01 jumping hour module (on a Sellita SW200 base movement) as every other Jump Hour Fears has made (well, almost every one – we’ll get to a few exceptions momentarily). What differentiates this edition, of course, is the dial execution. Typically, the Jump Hour is loaded with negative space. The Fears version of this complication features a small interior minutes track with an hour aperture at the top, and ample space within and without that circle that becomes a venue for an eye-catching color or an interesting material. It’s an inherently spare design, which I think is part of the appeal. The U...
Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin is a self-described watchmaker, inventor, and artist. In this interview (casually combating the English-Russian language barrier), Chaykin takes us on his journey from a maker of complex clocks to a master of ultra-thin watchmaking. He also shares insights into the world of independent watchmaking, Russia’s horological history, and how he injects a dash […] Visit Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex takes on an iconic integrated sports watch design with the new $219 Q Timex Marbella, complete with a slim steel case and textured dial.
Monochrome
The Manhattan has become one of Maen’s defining collections, offering the angular aesthetics of 1970s integrated sports watches and increasingly refined execution at accessible prices. Building on the success of last year’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin, the Swedish brand is introducing natural stone dials to its permanent collection. Mechanically identical to the existing hand-wound model, the […]
Monochrome
Despite Switzerland still being the epicentre of the industry, our love of watchmaking goes far beyond its borders. For years, we have been following the developments of other nations, virtually extending to all corners of the world. That always comes with the burden of stigmas, as changing one’s perception takes time and patience, and above […]
Time+Tide
Solar watches have surged in recent years, but one brand was long ahead of the curve, debuting the technology 50 years ago: Citizen.
Worn & Wound
Analog and digital timepieces used to wage war on the wrists of horological enthusiasts. Nowadays, though, they’re more of a united front against the tide of smart watches and phones, offering wildly differing price points, use cases, and aesthetics. No longer is a digital calculator watch seen as “nerdy”, as celebrities and public figures like New York mayor Zohran Mamdani are frequently seen rocking the classic Casio silhouette. And despite their seemingly anachronistic focus on tactile functionality and focus, analog watches have never been more popular with young people looking to escape the crushing presence of their digital lives. That’s where the analog-digital (“ana-digi”) format comes in. A clever combination of the best features of both types of “old school” timekeeping, new iterations like the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport are priced compellingly, and cast a wide net despite sometimes venturing outside of most design conventions. They can be a great introduction to the larger world of watches, and unique conversation pieces in their own right. So, let’s dive in and take a look at some notable ana-digi watches from watchmakers you already know and love, and what sets them apart from their more traditional stablemates. G-SHOCK Starting with the undisputed king of digital watches, Casio’s G-SHOCK sub-brand has a frankly staggering amount of ana-digi options on hand. Their aptly-named Analog-Digital collection boasts over 100 models currently a...
Monochrome
For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]
Worn & Wound
For the last three years, Citizen¹ has supported what has affectionately become known as Windup in a Lake—a diving event on Lake Michigan coinciding with Windup Watch Fair Chicago. We’ve celebrated Promaster¹ milestones with folk legends, and thrown ’80s-themed aquatic parties for Aqualand. But this year marked the 50th anniversary of Citizen Eco-Drive¹ innovation. To […]
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2019, the UR-100 Series has become one of Urwerk‘s most approachable and recognisable creations. “Approachable” is, of course, a relative term in terms of price, yet it is true regarding wearability. The UR-100 features the brand’s signature wandering-hour satellite display, but unlike the more extravagant EMC, UR-120 or UR-230, it packages […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, Collective Horology co-founder and Chief Executive Asher Rapkin joins us. He brought his lawyer. While Collective is a Ventura, California-based retailer of independent watch brands, including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, Ming and J.N. Shapiro, Sara Albrecht is the chairman and CEO of The Liberty Justice Center. That's the non-profit litigation firm that led the legal fight successfully challenging President Trump's initial round of tariffs all the way to the Supreme Court of the United States. They won in a surprise decision that ruled the President didn't have the authority to impose levies that increased the cost of importing goods into the U.S., including Swiss-made watches. The government is now in the process of refunding the approximately $166 billion businesses paid out. Asher Rapkin, co-founder and CEO of Collective Horology in Ventura, California. Of course, the Trump administration found a workaround and immediately slapped on new tariffs and, on July 24, initiated levies of 10% and 12.5% on imported goods, including Swiss-made watches. That's the day that Collective Horology and another importer (dealing in exotic spices), filed a lawsuit against the President and various bodies and individuals in the administration including U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer. Rapkin explains why his business decided to challenge the tariff laws and take on the President and his administration, while Albrecht lays out the legal...
Fratello
While searching for the Gallet Boxing Timer, I came across a surprising comment on one of my articles that sparked a discussion and led me to the one and only Longines Boxing Timer. The story behind the stop timer is unclear, but the watch seems authentic. I am not particularly interested in pocket watches or […] Visit Retrospective: Surprising Discovery Of Longines Boxing Timer to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Let me take you back to October of 2023. It’s Windup weekend in New York City, and throngs of collectors and enthusiasts have converged on the Altman Building, our old home in Chelsea, to check out new watches from dozens and dozens of brands. That year, I was particularly interested in a new watch from Fears, the Brunswick Aurora, which was unlike anything they’d made up until that point. Yes, it had the familiar Brunswick 40mm case, but the dial was and still is among the most evocative I’ve ever seen. Crafted from multiple pieces of a particularly dynamic mother-of-pearl, I was transfixed and knew that this would be the Fears watch I’d eventually own. I made good on that hunch a few months later, and wrote about my ownership experience in a fairly extensive way. It remains one of my most worn and loved watches. Years later, I can’t help but think of the Aurora as a point where something shifted. I’m sure there were other MOP and stone dials popping up in unexpected ways by that time, but that’s the one that got me, so the memory of that particular moment in watch culture feels very fresh. Since then, we’ve seen a deluge of watches with mother-of-pearl and stone dials that sometimes makes me wonder if we’ve time traveled back to a more groovy era. The saturation of these things in the market, at every conceivable price range, is unlike any trend I’ve witnessed in my years writing about watches professionally. And I’m here to say: we have to make...
Hodinkee
This week, HODINKEE Australia & New Zealand was officially launched at one of the country’s most iconic venues, Bennelong, tucked beneath the sails of the Sydney Opera House. The evening also served as the perfect moment to reveal the first edition of HODINKEE's local print magazine, with three spectacular covers and an unmistakable Australian focus, ahead of its newsstand debut on August 3. “This is exactly what the Aussie watch community has been waiting for,” one prominent collector told us ahead of the formalities, a sentiment echoed in countless conversations over the course of the night. With a crowd comprising collectors, enthusiasts, industry friends and brand partners, the guest list was a who’s who of some of the most important members of our industry, many of whom had travelled from across the country to be part of the occasion. Guests were welcomed with Champagne Billecart-Salmon, before Switzer Media publisher Alex Switzer and HODINKEE ANZ Editors Jamie Weiss and Nick Kenyon reflected on bringing one of the world’s most respected watch titles to Australia, and what this exciting new chapter means for the country’s ever-growing community of collectors and enthusiasts. Against the backdrop of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House’s looming sails, guests enjoyed the best of Bennelong's exceptional menu, while Grandiflora's Saskia Havekes transformed the space with beautiful seasonal flowers. As the evening unfolded, there were plenty of wris...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to luxury divers in the $10,000-$20,000 range, the usual suspects are big Swiss heritage brands. Rolex, Omega, and Blancpain immediately come to mind, and IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a host of indies offer sporty watches that are dive adjacent if not divers, strictly speaking, that collectors might consider cross shopping. Glashütte Original is a brand that probably doesn’t get mentioned enough in this category, as they actually offer two dive watches in this price range built on their SeaQ platform that are worthy of consideration. The brand has just introduced new versions of their SeaQ Panorama Date and standard SeaQ in a new “Northern Tide” colorway for the North American market that got me thinking about these watches (frankly, reminding me they exist). I’ve handled both the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date in the past and both watches are very nicely made, but each come with significant tradeoffs that make them tough to commit to, but in different ways. The standard SeaQ is the brand’s stripped down stainless steel diver, measuring 39.5mm in diameter, 12.15mm tall, and 47.2mm from lug to lug. The SeaQ’s case is very nicely executed and gives the feeling of a classic skin diver but with higher end, luxury finishing. The trade off here is really the movement – it runs on GO’s Caliber 39-11, which is a very nicely decorated movement, but has a power reserve of 40 hours, which is low relative to the competition, and is missing the signature Gla...
Hodinkee
There are a handful of people in the watch industry whose fingerprints are on nearly every era of watchmaking and enthusiasm, and Michael Friedman is one of them. He's been the kid in the archives of the National Watch and Clock Museum, the specialist at Christie's fielding calls from Eric Clapton, the American who moved to Switzerland to become Audemars Piguet's Head of Complications, and, as of this year, the founder of his own independent watch company. Somewhere in between, he became the answer to a trivia question about a Kendrick Lamar lyric. Friedman will tell you none of that was the plan. Instead, it's the result of a decades-long fascination with why humans decided time was worth decorating in the first place, and he's spent every job since trying to answer that question from a different angle. That fascination started at Clark University in the 1990s, not in a watchmaking program but in a psychology class, where a professor named Bernie Kaplan got Friedman thinking about pattern recognition. From there he wandered into time theory: how different cultures measured it, ordered it, gave it meaning. The throughline he kept coming back to was that objects built to track time, like water clocks, obelisks, and wristwatches, have always been embellished, regardless of what they were worth. That idea, that timekeeping and decoration are inseparable, has quietly run underneath everything Friedman has done since, from advising Clapton on vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex at...
WatchRider
Finding a truly small automatic watch is surprisingly difficult. Finding one in a refined, vintage-inspired “tank” (rectangular) silhouette is almost impossible in modern horology. That’s what makes the Orient FNRAP004W0 in rose gold such a special gem. Having owned and worn this piece for many years, I can confidently say it remains one of the most charming, reliable, and unique watches in my collection. The Secret in the Back Perhaps the most impressive feature is what you cannot see from the top. For me, the absolute standout feature of the Orient FNRAP004W0 is what happens when you take it off and flip it over. Most watchmakers assume that anyone wanting a small, dressy tank watch does not care about what is inside, usually opting to drop in a cheap, battery-powered quartz movement. Orient, true to its Japanese horological roots, took the harder path. Inside this tiny case beats an in-house Japanese automatic movement( Cal. 55742). The fact that Orient engineered a self-winding mechanical engine to fit inside such a slender, 11.95 mm-thick frame is a quiet flex of their watchmaking prowess. Art Deco Charm While the technical feat under the hood earns respect from watch enthusiasts, the external design is what wins hearts on a daily basis: The Warmth of Rose Gold: The rose gold-plated stainless steel case gives the watch an understated, warm elegance. It avoids the flashiness of yellow gold, making it easy to style whether you’re dressed up for an even...
SJX Watches
The 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States did not escape notice from the nation’s fledgling watch industry. To mark the occasion, 1776 Atelier released the Liberty 250, a watch credibly claimed to be more than 90% US-made. The brand’s most American-made and technically ambitious watch to date, the Liberty 250 also illustrates the difficulty of building a complicated mechanical product without an established domestic supply chain. Its HP 917 movement is the product of extensive iterative development, incorporating newly manufactured components, a free-sprung balance and a markedly more elaborate finishing programme. We sat down with the brand’s co-founders, Jason Lu and Zach Smith, to unpack the 90% figure, discuss the challenges of manufacturing watches in the United States and understand what the Liberty 250 means for the future of the brand and American watchmaking more broadly. The Liberty 250 is the most American-made product yet from Atelier 1776. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): Why start a watch company in the United States, particularly given the limited domestic supplier network and the additional cost involved? Jason Lu (JL): Because this is where we live, and this is where we wanted to build it. The United States was founded on ingenuity, and American watchmaking has a remarkable history. The fact that much of the former infrastructure no longer exists does not mean it cannot be rebuilt in a new form. Th...
Monochrome
Dominique Renaud hardly needs an introduction. Co-founder of Renaud & Papi, later to become Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), he helped shape modern haute horlogerie by developing complications for Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, A. Lange & Söhne and many others. His workshop also became a breeding ground for independent watchmaking, with Robert Greubel, Stephen […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts. Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...
Monochrome
In the field of independent watch brands, Laine Watches holds a special place, with its focus on finishing, movement decoration (not manufacturing), and highly respectable guillochage skills. Founded ten years ago by Finnish watchmaker Torsti Laine and based in the Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the small atelier creates classical time-only watches (even though a chronograph […]
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