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Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 20, 2024

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO

Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Yema May 13, 2024

Yema Slims Down the Navygraf in a New Limited Edition

A micro-rotor dive watch? For under $2,000? At first blush, the concept may seem outrageous. After all, micro-rotor movements are typically reserved for high-end dress watches and complicated Indies. They’re hardly at home in the sort of accessible dive watches so many of us like, but Yema has - for the second time this year - dropped a svelte micro-rotor-powered dive watch, and they certainly have my attention. Yema is not a new name in the watch space. The brand has been around in some form or another since 1948 and, since its return to French ownership in 2008, the brand has been working hard to build itself into a leading French watchmaker. While they are best known today for their vintage-inspired dive watches like the Superman, over the last few years, Yema has slowly been building up a quiver of French-made manufacture movements produced in France’s own version of the Vallée de Joux, the watchmaking hub of Morteau. To date, they have introduced three movements in this series of French-designed calibers, with more surely to come. Though still reliant on Switzerland for regulating organs and some movement parts (not a bad thing on any level, even Roger Smith uses Swiss-made mainsprings), these movements have been a big step for the brand, and are far from being simple ETA or Sellita clones, like we so often see. The first of these was the CMM.20, a slim 3.7mm ultra-thin micro-rotor movement, with near-COSC accuracy, an anti-magnetic construction, a 70-hour po...

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec May 13, 2024

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation

Some brands want a global presence, while others are perfectly happy to focus on a much smaller part of the world. Such is the case for Jiro Katayama, a Japanese watchmaker who produces watches under the name of Otsuka Lotec. This low-key but high-impact independent watchmaking atelier has been making the rounds online despite selling […]

WatchCharts May 2024 Watch Market Update: Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining Quill & Pad
Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining May 12, 2024

WatchCharts May 2024 Watch Market Update: Rolex Secondary Prices Still Declining

With Watches & Wonders and the associated speculation around discontinuations and new releases firmly in the rearview mirror, the secondary watch market in April 2024 has continued to follow the longer term trend of decline. In this report, we summarize the high level trends from last month, give an update on the Rolex Pepsi, and cover some of the best and worst performing collections in April.

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? Fratello
Rolex Daytona was worth just May 11, 2024

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State?

In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.

First Look – Meet the New Arinis Collection, the Lake Diving Watch from Elka Monochrome
May 10, 2024

First Look – Meet the New Arinis Collection, the Lake Diving Watch from Elka

Microbrands are reshaping today’s watchmaking landscape in remarkable ways. These small-scale ventures craft enticing timepieces, leveraging modern technology, marketing strategies, and the combined expertise, passion, vision, and business acumen. What’s particularly striking, at least for some, is their ability to deliver well-designed, high-quality watches at compelling prices, often packed with features typically associated with much […]

Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub” Fratello
Rolex Submariner Ref 6200 “King May 6, 2024

Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub”

Vintage Rolex is a treasure trove for dedicated collectors. Within that little sub-universe, there are grail watches that stand out above the rest. Today, we are looking at one that is pretty high up on many aficionados’ lists. This is the Rolex Submariner ref. 6200, also known as the King Sub. My friends at Tempus […] Visit Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub” to read the full article.

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe May 2, 2024

The Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches

Founded in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has long been the gold standard of high watchmaking, pioneering complications and design elements that are now found widely throughout the watch industry - from the first keyless winding system in 1845 to the first annual calendar wristwatch in 1996, with many other innovations and historic timepieces in between. Throughout the maison’s long and prestigious history, watches from Patek Philippe have proven to be among the most coveted and valuable on the watch-auction circuit, making up nine of the 10 most expensive watches ever sold and 14 of the top 20. What are these record-breaking Patek Philippe timepieces, what makes them so special, and exactly how much money did they fetch when the hammer came down? Below, we count down the top 10, ending with the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. Patek Philippe Gold Chronograph Ref. 1527 ($5.709 million, 2010, Christie’s) Sold at Christie’s in 2010 and still holding its spot in the top 10 most expensive Patek Philippe watches, this exceedingly rare perpetual calendar chronograph with a yellow-gold tonneau case more than doubled its pre-auction estimate. Its matte silver dial features applied Arabic numerals, a tachymeter scale, and three subdials for chronograph minutes, running seconds, date, and moon-phases. Its movement is stamped with the prestigious Geneva Seal, attesting to its elite level of finishing as well as its chronometric performance. 9. Patek Philippe Titaniu...

Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking Fratello
Apr 30, 2024

Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking

This week, Fratello On Air returns to its normally scheduled slot with a look at some Haute Horlogerie that can be bought at a fair price. To be clear, we’re focusing more on high-end complications that usually cost an arm and a leg. This is the second half of an episode we recorded a week […] Visit Fratello On Air: Haute Horlogerie On A Budget - Relatively Speaking to read the full article.

First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Monochrome
Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner Apr 25, 2024

First Look – The New and Original Louis Erard Régulateur x Cédric Johner

Louis Erard has developed a close working relationship with contemporary artists, watchmakers, artisans, and designers to position itself as one of the most exciting and original brands on the watchmaking scene. To bring the delights of high-end watchmaking to a broader audience, Louis Erard sticks to its policy of accessible prices. What other brand can […]

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 50th Years Apr 25, 2024

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold

As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

First Look – The Striking New Arceau Duc Attelé, a Remarkable Hermès Creation Monochrome
Hermes Apr 24, 2024

First Look – The Striking New Arceau Duc Attelé, a Remarkable Hermès Creation

In watchmaking, creativity is a constant topic of conversation. Few can match the innovation of Hermès, and many can learn from the brand’s approach. The new Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé, featuring a central triple-axis high-frequency tourbillon and a minute repeater, showcases impeccable craftsmanship and construction. Seamlessly blending the equestrian theme into its design, this timepiece […]

[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Arcanaut Apr 23, 2024

[VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials

Of all the watch collecting niches, few are more curious (and potentially divisive) than watches that are completely (or almost completely) without any markers and branding. In our hobby, legibility and a relative ease of use are often seen as high priorities, so what happens when a watchmaker decides to forego these things entirely in favor of pure artistic expression?  We’ve noticed an increase in dials of this type from brands as diverse as Christopher Ward, Arcanaut, and H. Moser recently, and it’s interesting to consider what each is attempting to accomplish. These watches fly in the face of the idea as a watch as a practical tool, and lean toward a more overtly artistic style of watchmaking. But that doesn’t necessarily make them impractical.  In this video, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan look at a number of watches that prioritize the artistic vision of the maker by eschewing traditional markers, or other dial indicators that make it easy to precisely note the time at a glance. The post [VIDEO] The Dial as a Canvas: Our Favorite Artistic Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell Worn & Wound
Shinola Apr 20, 2024

The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell

A tradition unlike any other, yes we’re talking about the green-but you don’t need clubs or a golf balls for this holiday. Today is 4/20, a day marked for camaraderie and resilience, in addition to community, advocacy, and creativity, that come from in the endless pursuit of a nice, little high. With continued successes in campaigns for the legalization of marijuana in the United States and around the globe, the stereotypical stoner persona is changing. While the days of crafting makeshift pieces in the neighborhood “spot” are (hopefully) far behind you, the team at Detroit-based Shinola have used their ingenuity to dedicate a special Runwell to continue to speak up for those incarcerated or affected by outdated cannabis laws. Take a look at Shinola’s latest release, in collaboration with actor Quincy Isaiah and his new film Grassland, as well as some giftable products from other innovative brands that are doing their part to get those who light up out of the dark. The post The Ultimate 4/20 Gift Guide Featuring the Limited Edition Shinola 420 Grassland Runwell appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Grand Seiko Apr 20, 2024

The Case for Quartz Luxury Watches: Featuring F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko and Accutron

When starting out on a watch journey, one of the first questions to consider is the choice between quartz and automatic watches, with the perception that mechanical watches are "better" and more expensive, while quartz watches are entry-level and lower quality. While this may hold some truth, luxury brands also produce high-end quartz pieces that are equally impressive from a technological standpoint. 

Hands-On With The Nomadic Maraí 401 Crimson Dawn - A Dive Watch With Roots In The Belfastian Harbor Fratello
Nomadic Apr 17, 2024

Hands-On With The Nomadic Maraí 401 Crimson Dawn - A Dive Watch With Roots In The Belfastian Harbor

Belfast is not high on the list of cities we associate with watches. But the capital of Northern Ireland plays a pivotal part in the story of the young Nomadic Watches. The brand’s name relates to the city’s famous shipbuilding industry. Additionally, Nomadic’s home base is visually integrated into the design of its watches. I […] Visit Hands-On With The Nomadic Maraí 401 Crimson Dawn - A Dive Watch With Roots In The Belfastian Harbor to read the full article.

Buying Guide – Our Selection of the Very Best Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Monochrome
Apr 14, 2024

Buying Guide – Our Selection of the Very Best Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

It’s done, it’s over and it has been another wild ride: Watches & Wonders 2024. Quite literally the biggest watch fair of the year, it’s the social gathering where watchmakers bring their A-game. Brands high and low have presented countless new watches, setting records in the process. Records for ultra-thinness, for instance, or out-of-this-world accuracy. […]

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGW002 and SLGW003 “Birch Bark” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 12, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGW002 and SLGW003 “Birch Bark”

Grand Seiko has introduced the Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003, in rose gold and “brilliant hard titanium” respectively. Named after the dial pattern, the “Birch Bark” is powered by a new manually-wound, high-beat caliber that features the brand’s proprietary dual-impulse escapement. The only completely new model introduced by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonder this year, the new references introduce a new, notably slimmer aesthetic to the brand’s Evolution 9 collection.  Initial thoughts Grand Seiko has earned a devoted following in recent years, but collectors have been asking for slimmer options for some time; this release proves the brand is listening. While there’s nothing revolutionary about it, the watch has been nipped and tucked in all the right areas, getting the case down to 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm in thickness.  Compared to the most similar existing watch in the catalog, the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” launched two years ago, the new Evolution 9 feature a new movement, a thinner case, slimmer dial markers, and a horizontal interpretation of the brand’s signature white birch-inspired dial texture. The slimmer profile is made possible thanks to the new 9SA4 movement, which is essentially a 9SA5 without automatic winding. This makes it the first manually wound caliber from Grand Seiko’s latest generation of mechanical movements, and also the first to be available without a date function. Perhaps the onl...

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture

By now, Frederique Constant is famous for its no-nonsense Swiss-made watches. The brand’s Classics collection is at the forefront of its philosophy of offering high-quality watches at a relatively affordable price. This week, at Watches and Wonders, two of the collection’s models are receiving some significant updates and upgrades on both the inside and out. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture to read the full article.

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon During Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]