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Bvlgari inaugurates a new expanded manufacture in Saignelégier
We attended the inauguration of the newly expanded manufacture in Sainglégier in the Swiss Jura on 14 November 2024. Here is our video report of the event.
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Monochrome
Industry News - Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
In late 2022, luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton announced a rather surprising but promising concept, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. A biennial prize organized by its Swiss-based watch manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, its mission is “to recognize a passion for watchmaking savoir-faire, creativity, and innovation in the pursuit of excellence, […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Fiery Eska Amphibian 250 Red Viper
While a young brand in its current form, with only one model in two versions so far, Eska Watches has history and pedigree. Originally founded in 1918 in Granges, Switzerland, the brand made a name for itself during the golden era of dive watches with its Amphibian 600, a watch closely related to the Fifty […]
SJX Watches
Unique Tudor Black Bay Ceramic for Las Vegas Grand Prix
Building upon the Black Bay Ceramic “Chameleon” made just for the Miami Grand Prix in May, Tudor just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic in green-blue livery, which will be worn by drivers Yuki Tsunoda and Liam Lawson of the Visa Cash App RB Formula One Team (VCARB) during the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix. Inspired by the glittering lights and colours of the Las Vegas strip that hosts the circuit, the one-off Black Bay Ceramic a speckled, graduated green-blue dial paired with a matching strap. Initial thoughts Since the announcement of the partnership between Tudor and the VCARB Formula 1 Team, the watchmaker has already unveiled several VCARB editions. The Las Vegas and Miami race editions are more striking and unusual, but unfortunately only issued to the team drivers for the race. Regular folk will have to make do with the Black Bay Ceramic VCARB that’s available in stores and good value, but not quite as unique. While it might seem that that special editions from Tudor are many, the brand’s collaborative watches mirrors the approach taken by Rolex decades ago, when the Geneva giant made watches for various professionals. Besides VCARB, Tudor has made watches for French navy aviators, the Alinghi America’s Cup team, and reputedly the US Navy’s elite SEALs. The colours of the Strip The dial and strap feature a green-blue finish modelled by the VCARB livery for the Las Vegas Grand Prix, which is in turn inspired by the reflected lights of the Las Vegas Strip. As...
Fratello
Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker
If you follow my writing, you know I am an advocate for typography in watch design. It is an often-overlooked element that can make or break a watch. While I was developing my watch, typography designer Samuel Baker appeared on my radar. We ended up collaborating, resulting in a fully tailor-made typeface for my fledgling […] Visit Just My Type! An Interview With Watch Typography Designer Samuel Baker to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic
Made up of Head racquets and Lacoste polos used by Djokovic during his 2023 season, this watch is a little piece of Grand Slam history.
Monochrome
Video - A Trip Down Memory Lane with the Titoni Heritage Chronograph
Independent Swiss watch brand Titoni has been run by the Schluep family since 1919. Originally registered under the name Felco in 1919 and then Felca AG, this Grenchen-based watch manufacturer embraced foreign markets early in the game, surviving the vicissitudes of the 20th century intact. Titoni’s Heritage collection is inspired by some of the brand’s […]
SJX Watches
Breguet “Marie Antoinette” Watch to go on Show in London
The fabled Breguet no. 160 “Marie Antoinette” (pictured above, image credit Baruch Coutts) was reputedly made for the last queen of France, but was so complicated that it took decades to complete, by which time the queen was long dead. Stolen in 1983 and then recovered in 2007, the legendary watch started by Abraham-Louis Breguet will be on display for the first time outside of the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art In Jerusalem since its recovery. From December 12, the Breguet “Marie Antoinette” will be on show at the Science Museum in London (which is also home to important George Daniels creations, including the unfinished watch and the Space Traveller II). The Breguet Marie Antoinette is part of Versailles: Science and Splendour, an exhibition dedicated to the scientific and technology discoveries related to the French royal court in the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores a 120-year span of scientific progress at Versailles, illustrating the scientific endeavours accomplished during the reigns of Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. The mythical watch While the exhibition will include over 100 exhibits, watch enthusiasts will know the highlight is Breguet no. 160, the grand complication commissioned in 1783, by Marie Antoinette’s lover according to legend, hence its longstanding nickname. A no-expense-spared commission, watch no. 160 was only completed in 1827, having been delayed by A.-L. Breguet’s exile during the French Revolution. By the t...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Expands Seamaster Diver 300M Line With New No-Date Models
The Seamaster Diver 300M has been a cornerstone of Omega's dive watch legacy since its introduction in 1993. This year, the Swiss watchmaker refreshes the beloved collection with a duo of vintage-inspired models, blending classic aesthetics with modern performance.
Deployant
New Video: Brief introduction to Rudis Sylva in Les Bois
We visited Rudis Sylva, in a small village known as Les Bois in the Swiss Jura. And discover the fascinating history of the brand and the village.
SJX Watches
Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part II
Continuing from part I of the history of the equation of time. In the late 17th century, London’s clockmaking landscape experienced a remarkable surge of innovation and collaboration, fuelled by interactions among prominent horologists and the broader scientific community. Among this period’s leading figures were Christian Huygens and Robert Hooke, who made substantial strides in crafting clocks that could precisely display solar time without the need for cumbersome equation tables. This era marked the advent of the equation cam, a revolutionary mechanism designed to reconcile the disparities between solar time and mean time. Inspired by the analemma-a figure-eight pattern illustrating the Sun’s varying positions in the sky throughout the seasons-these mechanisms featured a distinctive mathematically calculated kidney-shaped cam, symbolising a pivotal step forward in horological precision and accuracy. At the heart of this innovation lies the cam and lever mechanism, an integral component of the invention. It comprises a shaft propelled by the clock’s mechanism, completing a full rotation annually. Affixed to this shaft is a meticulously crafted kidney-shaped cam, tailored precisely to match the annual fluctuations outlined by the equation. This cam engages with a follower and a connected lever, facilitating the seamless translation of its rotational motion into practical adjustments within the timepiece. Drawing of an equation pendulum by Ferdinand Berthoud (1...
Monochrome
Video - A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit
The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons
BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong
Independent watchmaking has been important in the auction space for some time now, both in terms of repute and value. The recent Geneva auctions, for example, saw a new record set for the most expensive timepiece made by an independent – over US$8.32 million with fees for the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité prototype “15/93”. Now as the auction season moves to Hong Kong, we bring you some of the interesting examples of independent pieces watching up going on the block at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction on November 22-24. It’s a two-part event: first Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional sale of varied offerings. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 111 – Masahiro Kikuno Tourbillon 2012 Part of the TOKI sale are timepieces crafted by Japanese independent watchmakers. One such piece remarkable is this unique wristwatch with a tourbillon regulator from Masahiro Kikuno, a low profile but talented craftsman. An up-and-coming independent watchmaker, Masahiro Kikuno is one of the youngest members of the AHCI. The auction debut for Mr Kikuno, the present wristwatch was firstly presented at Baselworld 2011, along with a similar one encased in silver. The watch is unmistakably hand made and original in many respects, ranging from the fluid 18k gold case to the patterned dial to the movement architecture. Although executed in the traditional way, the movement has an unusual construction, ...
Worn & Wound
The Watches We Don’t Wear
“Watches are made to be worn” is a mantra repeated frequently by people like me. To own a watch and not wear it in our community is borderline shameful. As enthusiasts, we take pleasure in the little scratches and signs of wear that a well worn watch picks up, and many of us adhere to the principle that if a watch isn’t being worn regularly, it’s time to move it along, list it on the forums, and replace it with another that hopefully finds a more regular role in the rotation. I’m a believer in wearing watches – that should go without saying. I have a watch box full of watches that I genuinely enjoy having on my wrist. At this point it’s a well cultivated collection that, I think, reflects my taste and personality, and I’m lucky enough to own a handful of watches that give me a real sense of pride in ownership when I put them on. I’m not one to baby my watches or only bring certain pieces out on special occasions, and I certainly don’t have a Safe Queen, which I have to admit is one of my favorite terms of art in our hobby. Alas, I’ve never purchased a watch purely for investment purposes and dropped it off at the bank, with promises to visit around the holidays, or maybe for an anniversary. But I do want to normalize the idea that we can own and enjoy watches that we would never think of wearing. I think most collectors, if they gave it some thought, would be able to identify a watch or two (or more) in their collection that they don’t wear – ...
Monochrome
News - Seagull Drastically Limits Supply of the ST-19 Chronograph, but not for Studio Underd0g
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
Fratello
#TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches
Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling […] Visit #TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps
The new Delugs sailcloth-patterned rubber straps are a refreshing addition to the brand’s repertoire, especially for collectors looking to add a more refined version of the sailcloth strap. First things first: these are not your typical ultra-modern, sports-performance sailcloth-style straps. They’re made with a nod toward traditional aesthetics and construction. A few things stand out […] Visit Strap Review: Testing Out The New Delugs Sailcloth Straps to read the full article.
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Very important and interesting facts about the F.P.Journe manufacture which you may not already know
We visited the manufacture F.P.Journe and bring you some insights on the maison and how their watches are made.
Worn & Wound
The Latest From Elka is a Limited Edition with a Whiskey Inspired Dial
Just hearing the brand Elka brings back nostalgic memories of my trip to Neuchatel back in 2019, a picture perfect Swiss town bordering a very large lake. It’s often known as the “land of watchmakers” and hosts the headquarters for some of the most renowned Swiss watch brands, including Elka Watches. Elka has launched a watch and whiskey collaboration with the limited release of 25 S series watches, each to be paired with their own unique bottle of golden hued Single Malt Whiskey. Many watch collectors, including myself, take pleasure in the opportunity to enjoy an evening dram of fine Scotch or Bourbon while gazing into the dials of our most prized watches. Oftentimes you can find us comparing notes from the liquor that complement the vibe of the watch, or even superficial aesthetic cues such as the color of the whiskey matching various earthy colors found on the watch – such is the case with this limited pairing from Elka. The Whiskey that comes with this new limited edition watch from Elka is not a Scotch, nor a Bourbon – but rather a single malt by the name of Loch Lat that has been distilled in Neuchatel and aged in Cognac casks. Whiskey that has not been distilled in Scotland lawfully cannot bear the official name of a Scotch (the same goes for Bourbon which needs to be made within the USA) and that’s the case here with this Swiss single malt not bearing either label. This new S series release from Elka is very elegant and dressy in appearance, but ...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Certified Pre-Owned
Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just announced its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme. Focused on recent VC timepieces, the CPO offerings will all be certified and serviced by the brand, and accompanied by a two-year warranty. The CPO programme will also allow clients to trade-in their VC timepieces for a new model. The CPO programme is making its debut with Watchfinder, the pre-owned watch merchant owned by VC’s parent company, the Swiss luxury group Richemont. In time to come, it will progressively be rolled out at VC boutiques, third-party retailers, and even auction houses. Each CPO watch will be accompanied by a two-year international warranty, a “Digital Passport”, and an VC guarantee letter. Watches sold through the CPO programme will be delivered in a VC pouch with a VC seal tag. Strictly speaking, CPO programme isn’t the first time VC is offering pre-owned watches. For several years, select boutiques have carried watches from Les Collectionneurs, vintage VC watches restored and certified by the manufacture. Practically all of the Les Collectionneurs watches are over 40 years old. On the other hand, the CPO programme is distinct as it covers more recent timepieces, including current models.
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent
The first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe is now the most expensive timepiece made by an independent watchmaker: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” just sold for CHF7.32 million (equivalent to US$8.36 million), including fees, at Phillips in Geneva. Delivered in 1993 to an astute Parisian collector, the watch was the second wristwatch ever made by Mr Journe. He retained possession of the first wristwatch, which now resides in his museum. As far as François-Paul Journe is an important watchmaker, Tourbillon “15/93” is an important watch – a fact proven by the hefty price. Despite the headline number, the bidding for Tourbillon “15/93” was unexpectedly truncated. As soon as auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened the bidding at a mere CHF1 million, Paul Boutros shouted a CHF5 million bid, causing a stir in the room. Mr Boutros, the watch department chief for the Americas, was bidding on behalf of a client on the phone who is perhaps the world’s biggest F.P. Journe collector. The huge opening bid quickly eliminated all other bidders – there were a half dozen other phone bidders – save for one gentleman in the room who has good taste and an impressive collection of independent watchmaking. The gentleman in the room made two more bids but bowed out (though he did win another notable timepiece during the sale), leaving Mr Boutros’ client to walk away with the watch for CHF6 million hammer, which is CHF7.32 million with fees. Th...
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe is a limited-edition timepiece designed to commemorate the Vendée Globe, a grueling solo sailing race around the world. The independant Swiss watch maison, that built its name supplying accurate, reliable marine chronometers to the world’s navies in the 19th century, will serve as an Official Partner and the Official Timekeeper of the Vendée Globe, the World’s largest solo, non-stop, unassisted round the-world sailing race.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Vintage Seamaster in Great Condition, a Funky Seiko LCD, and a Classic Bulova Diver
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Deep Sea Bulova made a plethora of dive watch models back in the day, and a few of them have been reissued as modern ‘heritage’ remakes. The reason is the vintage Bulova divers are almost all awesome, and this 666ft diver is a perfect example. This model came in two styles, the silver dial seen here and also a black dial. Some were branded as “Snorkel” and some did not have that model name on the dial, like this one. This example is in excellent condition, and the original dial looks fantastic with the original lume. The diver’s bezel is missing the lume pip and the numbers and lines should have black paint, but otherwise this is a stellar example. The original crown is signed as it should be, and the movement is clean and runs well per the seller. These are hard to find in this shape these days. View auction here Vintage Mido Multifort Here’s a great little vintage Mido Multifort Powerwind dress watch. The nearly 30mm steel case is in good condition, maybe mildly polished at some point, but the caseback is nice and sharp. The silver dial is clean and looks original, with nice stylized numbers and slim arrows. The dauphine hands have large lume filled plot...
Quill & Pad
The Ongoing Saga Of The World’s Most Complicated Wristwatch: Superbia Humanitatis By Louis-Elysée Piguet, Franck Muller, And Paul Gerber (Plus Video)
The Superbia Humanitatis Louis-Elysée Piguet/Franck Muller/Paul Gerber super complication is one of the most legendary watches of our time. And what a story! And here it is in its entirety: from 1892 when Piguet made the movement through 1992 when Franck Muller altered it, all the way through the present day when Paul Gerber modified it three more times to make it the most complicated wristwatch in the world.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe celebrates one of the most taxing sailing races. It’s also the most sustainable watch yet from the Swiss brand. Let’s take a closer look at this sporty and colorful diver. Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to supporting lengthy, challenging races. The Gumball 3000 comes to mind in […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New and Extraterrestrial Louis Moinet Starman
Every timepiece crafted by Jean-Marie Schaller and his watchmaking team at Louis Moinet promises one sure thing – it will captivate, invite a closer look, and often spark curiosity about the stories behind it. The latest creation, the Starman, exemplifies this spirit; it is a luxurious, quintessentially Louis Moinet piece made with fragments from two […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity
Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...