4,970 articles · 18 videos found · page 64 of 167
Monochrome
Albishorn, an independent Swiss brand founded in 2024 by Sébastien Chaulmontet, focuses on “imaginary vintage” watches, “what if” models that are visually grounded in the past – but which never existed. A year after its debut, Albishorn released the Marinagraph, a robust skin diver with a patented 10-minute regatta countdown function that “could have” been […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Swiss brand Albishorn, carving out a niche with "imaginary vintage" designs, just released a simplified version of its regatta chronograph with the Marinagraph Classic. I first covered this complication in my hands-on review two years ago with the Albishorn Maxigraph, the brand's debut model and a collaboration with Massena LAB. Since then, the regatta chronograph has lived on under Albishorn's "Water" collection as the Marinagraph, combining the complication with a tide bezel. Today's Marinagraph Classic isn't all that different from the Marinagraph Classic Racing. Visually, the biggest difference is the swap from that colorful aluminum insert tide bezel to a large bidirectional sapphire bezel with more traditional, lumed markings. And yes, there are new dials too. While the sunray-brushed black dial remains, the new dial comes in the form of a white fumé color, with what could have been misconstrued as a shadow in the brand photography actually a subtle dark fade around the edges of the white dial. The black dial sports contrasting silver hands and markers, while the ones on the white fumé dial offer a stark black contrast. On both dials, the ten-minute retrograde regatta countdown scale at 7 o'clock is colored in blue and red, while the chronograph and regatta seconds hands are matched on each dial in either red for the black dial or blue for the white. My favorite feature since the first Maxigraph has been the aperture at 3 o'clock, serving as a running ...
Monochrome
Some brands flourish in the field of heritage watchmaking, at least for inspiration. Remakes, re-editions, re-designs and whatnot all rely on successful designs of the past. Nivada Grenchen is one of those brands, bringing back several very popular models from its rich history, yet it also has a more quirky side. Recreating a rather obscure […]
Monochrome
The Presage Classic collection has become Seiko’s showcase for traditional Japanese decorative arts. Within the collection, the Craftsmanship line celebrates centuries-old artisanal techniques through enamel, porcelain and urushi lacquer dials. This year, Seiko expands its catalogue with two refined additions that honour an important milestone in the company’s history: the 1913 Laurel, Japan’s first wristwatch. […]
Worn & Wound
Bernhardt’s Captain collection is a new range of dress watches that I think loosely falls in the Calatrave-esque trend that has been emerging, most notably through a variety of Japanese indies and micros, over the last few years. As interest in chunky divers and sports watches appears to wane a bit, enthusiasts are (finally) willing to look at watches in other genres, and brands are delivering with a variety of takes on the dress watch format. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community, but it’s not easy to make a dress watch. It is, conversely, very easy to attempt to make a dress watch and actually make a regular old daily driver, the type of watch that most people who had any desire to wear any watch at all would have owned in the middle part of the 20th century. $749 Hands-On: the Bernhardt Captain Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Silver Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap leather Water Resistance 50 Dimensions 38 x 45mm Thickness 9.55mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty yes Price $749 A dress watch, to me, is a very specific thing. If it’s mechanical, it’s manually wound. It’s more likely to not have a seconds hand, and indices and other markings should be minimal. It obviously should be quite thin and relatively small in size, and if I were really being a snob about it, I’d insist it should be in a precious metal, but I’m not a snob and that’s ridiculous. It does speak, though, to the idea that when you use the word “d...
Monochrome
In the world of mainstream watchmaking, unconventional ideas rarely make it past the concept stage. But for an independent, inventive brand with a fully integrated manufacture like Armin Strom, the possibilities are far broader. While the brand is perhaps best known for its mastery of resonance in wristwatch form, Armin Strom turned its attention to […]
Hodinkee
What We Know As one of the more recognisable watch designs, period, the current Panerai Luminor shape has been rendered in many different materials since the 1955 introduction of the crown protection device. This latest take, the Luminor Marina PAM01707, is cased in Carbotech, a composite material combining carbon fibre sheets and polyether ether ketone, resulting in excellent anti-corrosion properties and lightness. Though Panerai’s products now comfortably sit in the luxury watchmaking category, it hasn't stopped them from using avant-garde materials suited to the original intent of their designs. Measuring 44mm across and 14.5mm thick, the PAM01707 has all the hallmarks of a classic Panerai, with its cushion-shaped mid-case sandwiched by a round, striated Carbotech bezel and a DLC-treated titanium caseback. The signature bridge, which spans the right-hand side of the case and protects and locks the crown, is also rendered in carbon, matching the uneven, textured finish of the rest of the case. This sanga-based analogy can be expanded on for the dial, another Panerai hallmark. The textured, matte top plate features cut-outs for the stick indices and Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, as well as the small seconds indicator at 9 o’clock, allowing the fauxtinated Super-LumiNova bottom layer to shine through. Here pictured on brown calf leather, Panerai also includes an “Officine Panerai”-branded black rubber strap so you can actually take the watch swimming, th...
Fratello
Grøne introduces the Horologium, a new manual-winding timepiece available in two different versions, “Something Quirky” and “Something Classic.” Both watches come in a 39mm stainless steel case and feature small seconds, a Swiss-made manual-winding movement by La Joux-Perret, a 60-hour power reserve, and 5 ATM of water resistance. Limited to 188 pieces per version, the […] Visit Play It Classic, Or Make It Loud: Unpacking the Grøne Horologium’s Dual Identity to read the full article.
WatchRider
Seiko has introduced the Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1, a new mechanical watch built around the colour and texture of a Japanese pine tree. It is scheduled for release in September 2026 and production is limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide. This is not a simple green-dial version of an existing Presage. The dial, gold-coloured case and included accessories all connect to the bonsai theme. A dial shaped by an old pine tree Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015 with the aim of presenting traditional Japanese bonsai in a modern way. For this collaboration, the main reference is a sanko-matsu pine that is said to be more than 150 years old. The textured Matsuba-iro dial is inspired by the bark and needles of an old Japanese pine. The dial uses a deep green colour called Matsuba-iro, named after pine needles. Its strong pattern is inspired by the rough bark of an old pine tree. Light catches the raised texture from different angles, while the gold hands, applied hour markers and printed text stand clearly against the dark background. There is no date window, so nothing cuts through the pattern. Gold colour without a gold case The 38 mm case and bracelet are made from stainless steel with a gold-coloured hard coating. It is important to be clear that this is not a solid-gold watch. Seiko mixes brushed and polished surfaces across the case and multi-row bracelet, then adds a fine pattern around the bezel for more detail. The case measures 12....
Monochrome
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]
Fratello
Although it’s the heart of the summer break, Seiko is definitely not taking any time off. We have been enjoying a steady stream of releases from the Japanese brand. At Fratello, we are in the lucky position to see some of the new releases up front. The last time we were given a preview of […] Visit Seiko Explores The Unique Art Of Bonsai In Its New Presage Classic HCC009J1 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its international relaunch in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection, for decades available only to Japanese customers, has become the brand’s showcase of the country’s traditional aesthetics and craftsmanship, offering enamel, porcelain, and urushi-lacquer dials. The recently introduced Presage Classic Series comprise vintage-inspired everyday watches, and the new Seiko Presage Classic is created with Tradman’s […]
Monochrome
Since its launch, Watch Ho & Co(mmunity) has taken a very personal approach to collaborative watchmaking. Founder Jackie Ho has consistently built projects around stories and culture. Previous collaborations with Selten, such as the Jui series with hand-guilloché mother-of-pearl dials inspired by Hong Kong’s Bauhinia flower, demonstrated that approach well. To celebrate the community’s third anniversary, […]
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann continues to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founder, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885), one of the key figures behind Glashütte’s rise as a powerhouse of German watchmaking. Following the Hamatic, the Tremblage, the Tefnut and the Backpage Tremblage, the brand honours its founder with yet another anniversary gift. Once again, a model from the […]
Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin is a self-described watchmaker, inventor, and artist. In this interview (casually combating the English-Russian language barrier), Chaykin takes us on his journey from a maker of complex clocks to a master of ultra-thin watchmaking. He also shares insights into the world of independent watchmaking, Russia’s horological history, and how he injects a dash […] Visit Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko’s excellent dive watches may have stolen the show Watches & Wonders, but the waterfall-inspired Masterpiece Collection “Hisen” SBGZ011 proves the brand hasn’t let its next-generation Spring Drive rollout outshine its fine watchmaking project — the Micro Artist Studio. While best known for the Credor Eichi II, and some of the finest chiming wristwatches yet made, the Micro Artist Studio’s work for Grand Seiko is perhaps even better, and though its resplendent movements can be found in more subtle watches, the “Hisen” is just as decadently decorated outside as it is within. Initial thoughts Last year, Grand Seiko kicked off a streak of hits, launching the compact and precise Spring Drive SLGB003, on a quick-adjust bracelet. This year the brand launched an even deadlier duo of mid-sized Spring Drive divers, and probably has another commercial success on deck for next year. But in the background, the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Spring Drive watches are made, continues its fine watchmaking efforts with the stunning diamond and Mozambique garnet set “Red Lion” ref. SBGD228, and the “Hisen” SBGZ011 reviewed here. Aesthetically, it is my least favorite of the four engraved-case models the brand has produced in recent memory — my favourites being the SBGZ001 “Snowflake” the astral SBGZ007 — due to the dial being too busy. However, the engraved 44GS case is almost magical, reminding me of the Quartz VFA ref. 3823-7030 and 3820-6000. L...
![Inside The Manufacture: Making A Tudor: A Behind-The-Scenes Look, From Raw Material To Finished Product [Video]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b4180ce2-b600-4ab3-9a26-546220f695bb/3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Earlier this year, Tudor invited a small group of watch media into its Swiss manufacturing network to see what "Swiss Made" actually means in practice—not a one-stop visit in a single day, but the full process from start to finish over multiple days. I've been on plenty of manufacturer tours, and I've never had access like this. The result is one video, broken into three parts: cases and bracelets; hand-painted and hand-lumed dials; movements and assembly. Case and Bracelet We start by looking at cases and bracelets. I've had my Tudor Pelagos 39 on my wrist for a couple of years now, and until recently I'd never given much thought to what "Swiss Made" on the dial actually meant, beyond the concept and branding tied to those two words. So, using my own Pelagos as the starting point, this segment traces how a titanium dive watch's case and bracelet are actually made, moving through three Swiss companies closely linked to Tudor: Joseph Baume, Orolux, and Detech. Titanium case blanks are the start of the story. The progressive evolution of Tudor cases at Joseph Baume. Heat treating in a special furnace. The case begins at Joseph Baume, an independent forge where steel components are cold-stamped through up to fifteen strikes, while titanium cases, like that employed by my Pelagos, undergo hot stamping instead, heated to nearly 950 degrees Celsius and pressed into shape by a robotic arm. It's a more physical, almost blacksmith-like process than I ever would have expecte...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking sprouts far beyond well-known centres, and one of the latest examples comes from an unexpected country we largely associate with Carnival, samba, football legends, and the Amazon rainforest. Ceon Watch Co., a new atelier based in Curitiba, Brazil, reveals the GR-01, an ultra-thin integrated watch conceived, manufactured and hand-finished by founder Ricardo A. […]
Monochrome
Despite Switzerland still being the epicentre of the industry, our love of watchmaking goes far beyond its borders. For years, we have been following the developments of other nations, virtually extending to all corners of the world. That always comes with the burden of stigmas, as changing one’s perception takes time and patience, and above […]
SJX Watches
Compact, affordable Japanese icons collide in the Seiko 5 Sports Motocompo Limited Edition ref. HDB010, a collaboration with Honda that celebrates a collectable and compact 1980s motorbike. It recreates the Motocompo’s Daisy Yellow paint, retro typography, and even its packaging. And at 36.4 mm in diameter, it too can fit in the back of the Honda Jazz. Initial thoughts The Honda Motocompo was an adorable folding scooter briefly offered as an option on the Honda Jazz/City during the early 1980s. When folded up, it was small enough to squeeze into the back of a subcompact car, or even an Acura NSX. Its retro styling is back in fashion, and low production numbers — due to weak sales — make it quite collectable today. Honda offered the Motocompo in three colors: Caribbean Red, Shetland White, and the Daisy Yellow you see here. Image – Honda Motor Company I find the colour choice odd, as to me Honda means red — from the NSX to the brand’s motorcycles. “Honda Red” is the brand’s corporate colour, after all. If this colourway makes me think of anything, it’s Kill Bill: Volume 1. The case back crystal, however, is classic Honda red, concealing the industrially finished workhorse cal. 4R36. Colour aside, the Honda wordmark is appealingly subtle, and the stylised “automatic” text at six, which echoes the original Motocompo branding, turns an otherwise unnecessary label into a defining element of the design. Bluntly speaking, Seiko typography fell off a cliff ...
WatchAdvice
I take the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs in blue and green for a hands-on review to see how this watchmaking icon has evolved for a new generation! What We Love: Improved ergonomics for slimmer wrists Distinctive dial colours with different personalities Substantially upgraded TH20-11 movement What We Don’t: Limited strap options Square case still wears large 13.9mm thickness remains noticeable Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.7/10 Few watches in the world of horology are as instantly recognisable as the TAG Heuer Monaco. Even more than five decades after its introduction, the iconic timepiece’s square silhouette remains one of its most distinctive features. If you aren’t familiar with the story of the Monaco, it was first introduced in 1969—and it has quite the story behind it. The Monaco arrived during one of watchmaking’s most defining technical contests: the development of the first automatic chronograph. The birth of the Monaco was closely linked to the Calibre 11 movement, which was developed through a collaborative effort between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and chronograph specialist Dubois-Dépraz. The Calibre 11 was essentially part of a movement “race” against Zenith’s El Primero Calibre 3019 PHC and Seiko’s Calibre 6139. The new generation of TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs presented in blue and green dials. Jack Heuer, who was one of the driving forces behind the Cal...
Monochrome
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]
Monochrome
For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko launches six limited edition watches done in a "Edo purple" colorway celebrating the 145th anniversary of the Japanese watchmaker.
Worn & Wound
What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...
Hodinkee
Parmigiani Fleurier is a brand that has long embodied the idea of quiet luxury — or "private luxury," as Parmigiani CEO Guido Terrini asserts — frankly, sometimes to a fault. Many of its models pair spectacular watchmaking with a radically simplified design language, and the unique execution of a mechanical chronograph in the brand's Tonda Chronograph Mystérieux earlier this spring quite literally hides its mechanical extravagance as part of the complication. We'll have more on the Chronograph Mystérieux soon, but there's another watch launched this year that also feels unmistakably Parmigiani in execution—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary in white gold. To celebrate the brand's 30th anniversary this year, Parmigiani Fleurier launched a trio of limited-edition Toric models at Watches and Wonders, featuring hand-hammered gold dials. The Toric Petite Seconde in platinum, a Toric Quantième Perpétuel in rose gold, and a Toric Chronographe Rattrapante in platinum all got the new dial treatment. Then, a few months after the show, Parmigiani dropped this whopper of a watch. Let's get the not-so-fun part out of the way first—the Carillon Tourbillon 30th Anniversary is limited to 5 pieces, and priced at CHF 490,000. To most collectors, it might be an unobtainium watch in so many aspects, but that doesn't stop this thing from being an absolute joy to see in person. At a glance, the overall silhouette of the Carillon Tourbillon fits into the classic Parmigiani play...
Worn & Wound
The GRØNE brand was introduced in the fall of 2024 at the absolute height of what I think can fairly be called the diffusion line craze. Between MB&F; with their M.A.D. Editions, Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo, and a host of others, high end watchmakers making accessible products in a well understood design language has been one of the more interesting developments across the independent watchmaking landscape over the past few years. The pace of these projects coming to market has slowed down somewhat, but that’s only helped us understand which ones are taken seriously as brands unto themselves by their founders and operators. GRØNE, I think, falls into the category of a brand that the founders, Bart and Tim Grönefeld, who also of course run their eponymously named brand, take seriously, or at least as a labor of love for their friends and family who are priced out of their largely handmade luxury watches. The latest from GRØNE is a new three-hander in two variants, one meant to be serious and the other a little more playful. Both, I think, do a nice job of capturing the aesthetic cues of the Grönefeld brand in a way that previous efforts did not, while also acting as a showcase for the personalities of Bart and Tim. The new Horologium is available in two variants: “Quirky” and “Classic”. The Quirky variant has a bright orange dial that points to the brand’s Dutch heritage with complementary baby blue accents. The Classic is a more refined salmon dial ...
WatchRider
Seiko’s 145th-anniversary Edo Purple collection is not one watch in a new colour. It is five very different watches using the same dark violet palette and gold-coloured details: the Astron HAB011, Alpinist HBC006, Speedtimer HBJ005, Presage HCB006 and Seiko 5 Sports HDB003. All are limited editions scheduled for October 2026. Edo purple, five ways Edo purple is a traditional Japanese colour associated with historic Tokyo, once called Edo. Here, Seiko uses it with more restraint than the name “purple anniversary” might suggest. Dials shift between violet and near-black, while the gold-coloured accents give every model some warmth without making them look like birthday decorations. Astron HAB011: the technical flagship The HAB011J1 is the high-tech member of the Edo Purple collection. Image: Seiko. The HAB011 is the outlier because its 5X83 GPS Solar calibre receives time and time-zone information from satellites. It combines dual time, a 1/20-second chronograph, a perpetual calendar and 38-city world time in a 43.3mm titanium case. The ceramic-and-titanium bezel and dual-curved sapphire crystal help it look properly finished rather than merely busy. It is limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide. Seiko has confirmed Japanese pricing, but no U.S. price yet. The graduated purple dial and ceramic centre bracelet links set the Astron apart. Image: Seiko. Alpinist HBC006: compact and capable The HBC006J brings Edo Purple to the Alpinist’s compact case and leather strap. Image: ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Two icons of Japanese design unite to create a bright yellow ultra-compact watch inspired by an 80s turn bike. More
WatchRider
Most surf watches stop after telling you when the tide is coming in. The new G-Shock G-LIDE GBX-H5600KI-5 also checks your heart, studies your sleep and expects you to catch the next wave. Casio has released its fourth signature watch with Japanese professional surfer Kanoa Igarashi. The GBX-H5600KI-5 is based on the heart-rate-equipped G-LIDE GBX-H5600, but its brown marbled body and soft purple details give it a look that is easy to separate from the standard models. A colour scheme inspired by Portugal The mixed brown colour is inspired by the cliffs and rocky coast around Ericeira, Portugal, one of Igarashi’s training bases. Casio mixes different colours of bio-based resin during production, so the streaks and marks will not be identical on every watch. That gives each example a slightly different surface pattern without pretending that the watch is hand-finished. The lavender details are a smart contrast to the dark case. A purple vapor-deposited finish around the display is meant to recall the sea during the early morning and evening magic hours. Igarashi’s signature sits below the screen and also appears on the back. His World Surf League competition number, 50, is printed on the lower part of the band. Built for the water, but useful away from it The case measures 51.1mm long, 44.5mm wide and 17.3mm thick. That is a large watch on paper, although 47 grams is impressively light for a G-Shock with an optical heart-rate sensor. The carbon-fibre-reinforced resin ba...
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