Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Modern Panerai Hand-Winders
Even in an age of automatics, Panerai remembers its 20th Century roots: Manually wound watches. Looking to build out your collection? Start here.
22,310 articles · 2,116 videos found · page 641 of 815
Hodinkee
Even in an age of automatics, Panerai remembers its 20th Century roots: Manually wound watches. Looking to build out your collection? Start here.
Hodinkee
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was formally introduced at Baselworld back in 2013, where it won over crowds of journalists with a vintage inspired design just too simple to pass up. As difficult as it is to stand out in the vintage dive watch market, Maruice Lacroix seems to have struck a chord with the Pontos S Diver. Now that the watch has had a chance to settle into the market, we’ve decided to see just how well it’s held up by giving it a week on our wrist.
Hodinkee
From new takes on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver and Chronograph to a thorough refresh of the Seamaster 300, two watchmaking titans are updating the tried and true.
Hodinkee
Welcome to the team, mean RO green.
Hodinkee
From design to finishing to market positioning, the new entry-level Lange has a lot going for it. Buckle up, we're going deep on this one.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has garnered attention from new and veteran collectors with their nature-inspired dials and exquisitely finished and faceted geometries. For the longest time, were you to ask anyone about Grand Seiko and their flagship model the immediate response would be the SBGA211 Snowflake. It has served as a gateway watch into the brand, a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why is the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch causing waiting lists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...
Quill & Pad
The Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer is delightfully down to earth. It might not be the thinnest, most complex, or rarest watch in the collection, but, boy, it is good looking! In Martin Green's estimation, it is one of those rare watches where everything simply falls into place.
As part of celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard decided to surprise us with two new COSC-certified travel companions in the L.U.C line, the Time Traveler One and the GMT One. This collection is named in tribute to Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the company's founder, and reserved for pieces entirely designed and manufactured in-house. We had the opportunity to see them in the metal last week and have tons of live pictures and our first impressions of both models. Spoiler alert: We were mightily impressed.
SJX Watches
Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is a major event – 266 lots is sizeable – but boasts a surprising lineup of historically significant watches in a variety of genres, from establishment brands to independent watchmaking (including a dozen F.P. Journe), and even museum-quality, enamelled automata. Now we turn to an unusual group of watches from the collections of two well-known watch collectors: musician Eric Clapton and Japanese streetwear guru Hiroshi Fujiwara (who last year designed a watch for TAG Heuer). The all important name on the certificate The ex-Clapton watches have been consigned by the current owners, who number just two. The first consigned all the Rolex sports watches, which he bought direct from Mr Clapton. And the second is a prominent collector from the Southern Hemisphere who consigned the trio of custom-dial Patek Philippe chronographs commissioned by Mr Clapton, a set of watches the owner accumulated primarily at auction. On the other hand, the watches from Mr Fujiwara’s collection come from the man himself. Mr Fujiwara consigned three watches, including a matched pair of ref. 5970 with “Tiffany” dials. We round up eight highlights from these celebrity-owned offerings. The full catalogue and sale registration are available on Sothebys.com. The ex-Clapton Often spotted wearing notable watches, modern and vintage, Eric Clapton has long been known to be a watch aficionado (and also an accomplished collector of Ferrari). Mr Clapton has ...
Revolution
The father of the Casio G-SHOCK, Kikuo Ibe shares with Revolution how the watch he had designed in 1983 to be an indestructible tool, rose to become a global cultural phenomenon by appealing to watch lovers from all walks of life, using three principals: color, material and finish.
Quill & Pad
These two limited editions made to celebrate 60 years of Grand Seiko are fairly different on the surface, but both achieve similar success of representing the sub-brand's aesthetic and legacy. With possibly two very different customers for each watch, Grand Seiko also utilizes guiding principles to speak to both that are rooted in Japanese aesthetic conventions as Joshua Munchow explains.
Quill & Pad
When the Royal Oak Offshore launched in 1993 its timing was perfect: the bolder, larger, louder sibling of the Royal Oak was one of the trailblazers of the oversized watch trend. Nearly three decades later, the line's large sizing has mellowed down a bit. While it never comes close to becoming a dress watch, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph does a mighty fine job of outlining how the complicated future of this collection might evolve.
Hodinkee
Everything you ever wanted to know about the most advanced Rolex tool watch in the world.
Hodinkee
Take a dive to the depths of the sea with gold and steel.
Hodinkee
He became the oldest player to win a major golf tournament on Sunday, but we couldn't take our eyes off the watch.
Hodinkee
Piaget is the king of ultra-thin watches and for its 140th birthday is treating us to something special.
Hodinkee
Because one day, maybe even soon, you’ll want to dress up again.
Hodinkee
With the Nautilus being essentially impossible to buy at retail in certain references, Patek makes the Aquanaut even harder to ignore.
Time+Tide
What is the pinnacle of time telling? Some would say accuracy. Others would say it’s the ability to count time as experienced with a chronograph. I would argue that nothing beats the benefit of a world timer. To be able to quickly reference a time, anywhere around the world, is almost a magical experience. One … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Fratello x Nomos Zürich Weltzeit “The Hague” Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...
Revolution
Revolution caught up with Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg to discuss their latest venture Loupe This, an online watch auction platform designed by collectors, for collectors
Time+Tide
If you were to ask me what my favorite complication in watchmaking is, my answer would undoubtedly be the minute repeater. For me, fine watchmaking is about looking into the past and, while a completely unnecessary functionality in the modern world, there is an everlasting charm about a watch that can chime the time. Born … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Eight years in the making, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a masterpiece in the truest sense of the word. Reflecting the owner’s taste that is inclined towards the subtle, elegant, and artisanal, the watch is seemingly simple on the front, yet intricately decorated on its circumference and immensely complicated within. But the true art of the watch sits on the hinged case back, which bears a magnificent miniature enamel painting by Anita Porchet that reproduces Vermeer’s ethereal Girl with a Pearl Earring. The idea for this uber pocket watch was first mooted by the owner in 2012, before being formally commissioned in 2013 during the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong. Asked about his motivation in commissioning the watch – and waiting nearly a decade – the owner says, “I wanted to have a watch made, cost-and-time-no-object, that incorporated the ultimate in art – miniature enamel by the greatest practicing enameller – with the most difficult and sublime complication, the true Westminster sonnerie – and that alone – not counting the tourbillon escapement, which to me isn’t a complication.” “No such watch existed prior in the history of watchmaking,” he adds, “The watch came out more magnificent and monumental than I had imagined.” And that pretty much sums up the Vermeer pocket watch, which is unquestionably one of the greatest creations ever to emerge from Les Cabinotiers, a wo...
Time+Tide
One of my main reasons for loving microbrands is the lack of limitations they place on themselves when it comes to design. That ability to be so uninhibited may be sometimes be polarising, but I always appreciate any brand’s attempt to go off the beaten path. That is what Feynman Timekeepers founder Yong Keong Lim … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...
Hodinkee
Why do timeless watches and iconic cars draw in many of the same people?
Quill & Pad
The Ulysse Nardin UFO clock was inspired by historical marine chronometers as well as the movement of the waves and tides. It is a gorgeous mechanical creation showcasing the creativity of Ulysse Nardin and its willingness to push the bounds of what is expected. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look without getting too seasick.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: “Audemars on my wrist, bustdown. We poppin’ bottles like I scored the winning touchdown….” As Meek Mill demonstrated in I’m a Boss, rappers have long held a deep fascination with luxury watches. But given their massive followings and proclivity for namedropping brands in their lyrics, do hip-hop’s big names influence consumers’ buying habits. To … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Are rappers the real horological tastemakers of the world? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
For reasons GaryG still doesn’t fully understand, he has long been drawn to chronographs. One nice thing he finds about comparing the Patek Philippe Reference 5370 against the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange is that it’s a fair fight between two purpose-built single rattrapante chronographs of classical construction. Here he puts them head to head.
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