Deployant
New: Raymond Weil Millesime 35mm
Raymond Weil releases 5 new models to their Millesime 35mm collection, three time only central seconds and a two with moonphase display.
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Deployant
Monochrome
First Look - The New Bulgari Octo Roma Striking 8 Days
Bulgari’s personality is intrinsically shaped by Rome, incorporating elements of the city’s magnificent imperial architecture into its fabulous jewellery and watches. The iconic Octo family, which includes the invincible legion of ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo models, welcomes the new Octo Roma Striking 8 Days. If the watch looks familiar, it’s because the movement powering this […]
Fratello
Found: The Third Museum Watch Prototype
It’s been quite a week. After completing a 4,000-word article on the history of the Museum Watch, I reverted to covering the latest news and thinking about my next vintage story. However, little by little, the comments have trickled in on our site and over messages on Instagram. A noteworthy comment came in from a […] Visit Found: The Third Museum Watch Prototype to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour
Fears Watches is one of the small-brand success stories of this decade. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived his family’s brand with the Redcliff in 2016. Since 2020, the brand seems to have gone from strength to strength, and the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour shows this. This year the brand opened a boutique in its hometown […] Visit Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Junghans Updates the Popular Pilot Chronoscope
In the mid-1950s, Junghans produced watches for the newly established German army following World War II. The pilot chronographs had rotating timing bezels and specifically the Bundeswehr (German armed forces) chronograph has become a bit of a legend, serving as the inspiration for two new Pilot Chronoscope models. They’re variants of the exisitng Meister Pilot […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold
It takes guts to walk around wearing a large, all-gold integrated-bracelet sports watch. This genre is not for the faint of heart. I like to think I’m fairly spunky, so I figured, “Why not?” I reached out to Girard-Perregaux and asked if I could try the latest gold Laureato 42mm models. When a rather weighty […] Visit Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm In 18K Pink Gold to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Equipo Navazos No 85: A Surprisingly Different Sherry
Regular readers will be aware that Ken Gargett is a great fan of quality sherry. For some, the mere mention of Sherry will bring a thrill; for others, rolling of the eyes and shaking of the head. It really is a love it or hate it style. And this one is something seriously different.
SJX Watches
Hublot Returns to Mineral Stone Dials with Classic Fusion Elements II
Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II. As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite. The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out. Turquoise Initial thoughts Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones. The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials. Lunar meteorite This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves. Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous. The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial Initial thoughts The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism. Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class. The cal. 391 Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Ins...
Worn & Wound
It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches
There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point. The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...
Teddy Baldassarre
Lorca Model 2 Chronograph Review
Sophomore releases are always tricky business. Just ask Depeche Mode, or Kiss. An innovative or evocative debut sound before the artist has really had a chance to flesh out their own voice can lead to unrealistic expectations from fans. Small, independent watch brands face a similar challenge, often expressing an exciting vision for a single watch without a firm framework to expand upon. This isn’t always the case, however, and just like Pearl Jam or The Strokes, there are some emerging watch brands with freshman success that manage an equally compelling follow-up vision. This is exactly what New York-based Lorca, founded by Swiss-Canadian Jesse Marchant, is looking to do with its new Model 2 Chronograph, hot on the heels of their popular initial release, the Model 1 GMT. The visionary behind the brand, Jesse Marchant, is also a recording artist, and is no stranger to the process. The Model 1 GMT was a revelation when it was first revealed in early 2023. The design was subtle, and the execution well considered. All the little details worked, and it was a watch that managed to find its own style and identity in a sea of watches that had neither. The Model 1 didn’t break any new ground mechanically, but it did present a unique vision that touched on multiple genre points in a cohesive manner. It also featured a somewhat polarizing bezel that would ultimately add to the depth of its character. Beyond that, the bracelet, case, and overall fit and finish of the watch unders...
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World
Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years. You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...
Fratello
Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch
Last month, the Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified pilot’s watch leaked on social media. Normally, we don’t respond to leaks or rumors, but the number of questions we received about this watch was (and still is) getting out of hand. At least for now, this new Omega Speedmaster pilot’s watch is only available to US military […] Visit Under The Radar: The Omega Speedmaster Flight Qualified Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Panerai’s Latest Collaboration with the NAVY SEALS Highlights the Submersible in Four Variations
Panerai has announced a quartet of watches made in partnership with the U.S. NAVY SEALS, a capsule collection meant to highlight the brand’s mission of crafting reliable, purpose driven watches. All of the models share an aesthetic link through the use of camo patterns and dial effects and are based on collector favorite references from the Submersible collection. In a catalog filled with burly, oversized watches, the Submersible line is perhaps the most outwardly sporty, reflecting a more contemporary approach to divers, chronographs, and GMTs than you might find in the brand’s more heritage focused lines. The first model to receive the Navy Seals treatment is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro NAVY SEALS PAM01518. As the name suggests, this one is based on their stainless steel 44mm Submersible. Instead of their regular lume application, this one features sand-colored SuperLuminova on the hands, markers, and lume pip on the bezel. It is equipped with the Panerai P.900 caliber in-house automatic movement, which operates at 28,800 beats per hour and boasts a substantial 3-day power reserve. “NAVY SEALS” is displayed on the dégradé black to anthracite dial at 6 o’clock. When the watch is flipped over, a beautifully engraved commemoration of the NAVY’s special forces team is revealed. It is rated for water resistance up to 300 meters. The second model is the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT NAVY SEALS Carbotech PAM01513. Similar to the previous model, this one is b...
Monochrome
Introducing - Ikepod Goes Street Art-Style with the Megapod “This Is Our Time”
Back in the 1990s, if you were an architect or an artist and wanted to stand apart from the crowd, your go-to watch had to be an Ikepod. Founded in 1994, bold and unique, the result of the work of designer Mark Newson, Ikepod watches were among the coolest pieces you could get. After some […]
Quill & Pad
Angelus U41 Orange: a (relatively) Affordable (for a tourbillon) Tourbillon Sports Watch
The Angelus U41 Orange has an aesthetic that is more Richard Mille than Das Boot. At a launch price of $34,400, the notion of a tourbillon that can be enjoyed without care is compelling, and Angelus leans into it.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic
Sometimes simplicity is best, especially in the watch game, and Alpina proves that looking back at another era can be an aesthetic winner today. Many brands have vintage-inspired collections that pull from older, often historic models, so this is certainly nothing new. Alpina’s expanding Heritage collection, however, encapsulates the best of the brand with style, […]
Worn & Wound
The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References
When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...
Fratello
The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland
This feature was researched with the help of Nic Barnes, who is a pilot, watch enthusiast, and occasional contributor for Watches of Espionage. Our thanks to the Schaffhausen City Archive and Schaffhauser Magazine for providing materials that greatly contributed to our research for this story. It is one about a remarkable man with connections to […] Visit The Olympian IWC Watch Designer Who Fought Nazis In The Skies Of Switzerland to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Fleux FLX003 is a modern, vintage skin diver
Vintage skin diver touches inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300, and oversized dial elements make up the Fleux FLX003.The post The Fleux FLX003 is a modern, vintage skin diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
What The World Needs Now Is More Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations
Call me old-fashioned, sentimental, or a man of great musical taste. In any case, I think the 1965 song “What the World Needs Now Is Love” written by Hal David and Burt Bacharach is a true gem. Some might consider the song a bit preachy, but people need to be preached to occasionally. Every time […] Visit What The World Needs Now Is More Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Variations to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored in Platinum for Sincere Fine Watch’s 70th Anniversary
The 38-piece limited edition Antarctique S in Platinum is Czapek’s first watch featuring both a mirrored finish silicon wafer dial and bimetallic case and bracelet.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde
Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...
SJX Watches
Affordable Travel-Time with the Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer
Seiko adds travel time functionality to its line of affordable dress watches with the Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447. The new Presage is part of the Craftsmanship series that sports dials decorated with traditional Japan artisanal crafts ranging from lacquer to porcelain to enamel, and features glossy urushi lacquer dial to go along with the GMT function. A key part of Japanese culture for millennia, urushi is obtained from the lacquer tree and used for a variety of applications, ranging from kitchenware to samurai armour. Here it is applied to the dial by hand at the workshop of urushi specialist Isshu Tamura, which was also responsible for lacquer dials on past Presage models. Initial thoughts The new GMT offers a similar value proposition as past Presage Craftsmanship models: the dial is decorated by skilled artisans, a feature typically associated with more expensive watches, but the price tag remains an affordable US$1,750. And it has the added bonus of a GMT, giving it an added dimension of utility compared to most Craftsmanship models that either have calendar or power reserve functions. The only downside is the fact that it’s not a “true” GMT with an independently adjustable hour hand, but that is the case for practically all GMT watches in this price range, so it doesn’t put the Presage GMT at a disadvantage relative to the competition. Urushi dial The Presage GMT sports a dial finished in black urushi, with the gilt markings on the dial done in...
Quill & Pad
Hong Kong Watch Watch Design Competition Winners: Unleashing Young Designers!
Each year, the Hong Kong Trade and Development Council, the Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades and Industries, and the Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd organize a make-to-sell award in two categories. Marton Radkai reveals the winners.
Deployant
Six almost forgotten watch brands that deserve a comeback
Today, we uncover the stories of some historic watch brands that have fallen out of the spotlight and discuss their revival and relevance for modern times.
Time+Tide
You can only wear one type of watch for life… Andrew, Marcus, & Zach share their picks
If you could only own and wear watches from one watch category, what would it be?The post You can only wear one type of watch for life… Andrew, Marcus, & Zach share their picks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 2021 Edition
Once upon a time, there was a watch enthusiast (GaryG) who admired the work of Max Büsser and his watchmaking enterprise MB&F; and who dearly wanted to own one of his watches. But which one? Well, it took years, but Gary eventually decided on the eye-catching 2021 LM101 in white gold and here he explains why.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Curing Gold Fever With Five Heavyweight Luxury Sports Watches
If there’s one thing to be said about luxury sports watches, is that if done right they will stay on your wrist for a very long time. The undeniable appeal of such watches comes down to the shaped cases, integrated bracelets and often textured dials. Mostly crafted from robust stainless steel, there are those that […]
Fratello
In-Depth: Researching The Vintage Movado Museum Watch
Sometimes, an item can become so ubiquitous that we fail to question its history. Such is the story of the Movado Museum Watch. Sure, there’s a commonly told story, but for an item that even horology neophytes recognize, the history is brief and lacking. What started as a typical fact-finding mission turned into an ongoing […] Visit In-Depth: Researching The Vintage Movado Museum Watch to read the full article.